A Weekend In Unique Wines
A unique wine.
A unique concept.
We can take it to the extreme if we want. Wine in the bottle is a living thing. Wine is changing – for the better or worse, but wine is changing – enzymes are breaking, tannins are fading down. We can claim that every bottle of wine is unique, and similarly to “you can not enter the same river twice”, you can not taste the same wine twice.
Okay, let’s move away from such highly esoteric spaces, and let’s talk about personally unique wine happenings – and I will do my best to explain why I designate each encounter as “unique”.
Unique wine case #1 – “I never had it before”
“light golden color, guava, herbs, med-intensity, inviting; vanilla, apples, lemon, crisp, fresh, round, clean med-long finish” – in all modesty, I’m quoting the description of the wine from my own tweet a few days ago. Looking at this description, what wine do you think was in my glass?
Give it a thought for a few minutes. Meanwhile, I continue.
I will not be playing this #inmyglass game here, of course – especially since I actually borrowed this game from Le Bon Vin #inmyglass. The game was played on Twitter, asking people to identify the place and the grape(s) this wine was made from.
Chardonnay. Chennin Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc. Bordeaux Blend. Garganega from Soave. Lugana. Vermentino. Roero Arneis. These were some of the guesses, I’m sure I’m also missing a whole bunch.
Once we established the place – Italy – and after a few strong hints that the wine is a “curveball” and “thinking out of the box required”, we arrived at the correct answer.
Sangiovese in Bianco. A white wine made from red grapes.
It will not be the first – two out of the 3 main grapes in Champagne are red; Pinot Noir Blanco is quite popular in Oregon; I also had white Merlot and even white Cabernet Franc – and it will not be the last, I’m sure, but this was my personal first experience with white Sangiovese wine.
From the very first whiff 2021 La Loggia Toscaia Sangiovese in Bianco Toscana IGT (12.5% ABV) was special. Beautiful aromatics of guava and herbs, followed by a brilliantly balanced presentation on the palate, with lemon, apple and vanilla, crispy, fresh, delicious. If I would try this wine in the blind tasting, I would confidently make my bet on the old world Chardonnay – and yet this wine was made from Sangiovese.
I got this wine from the Last Bottle wines, which means that I might never see the same one again (I have a few more bottles to see how it will age) – but to my delight, I learned that an increasing number of producers offer Sangiovese in Blanco – I just hope the others will be as good as this one.
Unique wine case #2 – I might (will?) never try this again
Every Champagne lover knows Bollinger. A legendary producer whose Champagne was often 007’s wine of choice (yes, it is James Bond I’m talking about). Bollinger even produces one of the Champagnes under the “007” name. But I’m not talking about Champagne here.
Champagne appellation laws allow production of the still wines. The 2002 Bollinger Ay Rouge La Cote Aux Enfant Coteaux Champenois (12.5% ABV) is red Pinot Noir wine, produced from 2 acres of vineyard called La Cote Aux Enfant located in the heart of Grand Cru Aÿ region and aged in oak casks. This wine is only produced by Bollinger in exceptional years. I had this wine once 9 years ago, and at that time the wine was quite powerful, requiring some time to breathe. This time, the wine was ready to drink from the get-go, offering mostly the tertiary aromas – plums, dried fruit, still having enough acidity and some structure. My daughter offered probably the best descriptor for this wine – she said that the aromatics remind her of an old book – in a good sense. It is the book you lovingly and carefully take into your hands, expecting the magic to happen as you turn the pages. Do I wish I opened this wine 4-5 years ago? You bet. Did I regret my choice of keeping this wine for as long as I did? Not for a split second. A perfect rendition of the mature wine…
Unique wine case #3 – back from the dead and then red with cheese? Surprise!
1998 is one of the special vintages in my book, and I am always on the lookout for 1998 wines for a reasonable price. When I saw 1998 Chateau Saint-Nicolas Fronsac AOC (12.5% ABV) for $19.99 at Wine Exchange, I couldn’t help but grab a few bottles. I opened this bottle right after the 2002 Bollinger. The aromatics were very restrained, and on the palate, the wine just had some glimpses of fruit, but overall the wine gave an impression of the Bordeaux I don’t want to drink. A few hours later, things turned even to the worst – the wine was offering nothing on the nose or on the palate. Of course, it tasted like wine, but it had nothing going I would be able to apply any descriptor to. It was late in the day, so I pumped the air out and decided that I will deal with the wine the next day.
The next day I reopened the wine having literally zero hope for anything even half good happening to this bottle. The smell from the glass offered a glimpse of hope – dark fruit and a hint of eucalyptus showed up. To my delight, the palate completely transformed, offering silky cassis, anis, and lots of herbs. The wine didn’t even give out its age, it was still perfectly fresh with a good amount of acidity.
I had a small cheese board on the table, and without much thought, I took a sip of wine after a cracker with cheese. Combining wine and cheese is a lot more difficult than people like to think, so once again, I didn’t expect much. All of a sudden the taste buds jumped of joy, because the cheese, Bucheron soft-ripened goat cheese from Trader Joe’s, was perfectly complemented by this 21-year-old Bordeaux, creating a new level of hedonistic pleasure. A unique wine transformation and a unique pleasure of elevated food and wine experience – the experience worth remembering.
Here you are – my report on the weekend in unique wines. When was the last time you had a wine which you considered “unique”?
Virgen Wines – No SO2 Organic and Delicious
No added SO2.
Organic.
Delicious.
Simple, right?
Organic seems to be the word of the town. Four years ago, in 2019, 6.2% of the vineyards in the world were certified organic. In absolute terms, it doesn’t sound impressive. However, we need to take into account a few factors. First, many vineyards practice organic farming but are not inclined to undergo an official certification process due to the high cost. Second, and probably more important, is that from 2005 till 2019 the organic vineyard plantings increased by 13% per year, compared with non-organic vineyard plantings’ growth rate of 0.4% per year, according to the article in Drinks Business. I have a feeling that the organic vineyard growth could even have accelerated over the last four years, but we will need to wait to see the official data.
But grapes from organic vineyards don’t automatically mean that the wine can be called organic too – this gets a bit tricky, as every country has different rules for what wine can be called “organic” – this is why you can see on many labels the statement “made with organic grapes” instead of simple “organic”.
SO2, an abbreviation for Sulfur Dioxide, is an essential element in winemaking. It is used literally at every stage of the winemaking process because of a few important properties. SO2 is an anti-microbial agent, regulating harmful yeast and bacteria growth in wine. It also has anti-oxidative properties, protecting the wine from oxidation. It is important though that the use of SO2 is not excessive for a variety of reasons – one of such is an allergic reaction it can cause.
So here is the culprit – if you want to import your wine to the USA, and you want to be able to simply state on the label “organic”, you are not allowed to add sulfites (it is okay to add sulfites to the organic wine in Europe and Canada). This doesn’t mean that the wine will have no sulfites – sulfites are a natural by-product of fermentation, and they are always present in wine – but they will be present in minuscule quantities in the organic wines. However, not adding sulfites is not for the faint at heart – considering how many things can go wrong in the winemaking process – this is why today you see the majority of wines labeled with “made from organic grapes”.
Domain Bousquet was founded in 1990 in the high-altitude desert in Tupungato Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina, on the pure vision, passion, and conviction of its founder, Jean Bousquet. Jean was told that he is making a mistake of his life when he purchased 1,000 acres of nothing but dry, empty, arid land. Today, Domain Bousquet sustainably and organically farms 667 acres of vineyards, produces 50 million liters of wine, 95% of which is exported to 50 countries around the world, and ranks among the top 20 Argentinian wineries in terms of export. Domaine Bousquet also just extended its leadership in organic winemaking by introducing the wines produced without adding any SO2 – and this is exactly what we are talking about today.
Three new wines were just added to Domaine Bousquet’s collection, under the name of Virgen – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. All three are certified USDA organic, unoaked, and have no added SO2. To ensure the proper handling that these wines require, Domaine Bousquet even decided to ship them wrapped in a blanket.
When I received an invitation to review these new wines, my instant inclination was a simple “nope, not doing that”. No USDA organic wines made me excited so far. But the next thought was … well, these are just the samples, it might be interesting – especially if I can compare them with the same wines made in the traditional way – and this is pretty much what I was able to do.
Winemaker Rodrigo Serrano. Source Domaine Bousquet
In my mind, producing wines without SO2 requires a leap of heart. So even before I got the wines, I decided to ask Domaine Bousquet’s winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, a few questions about his inspiration and goals – here is our short conversation:
[TaV]: You had been farming organically since the beginning, so your wines have always been made from organic grapes. Getting USDA Organic certified is another test, as you now need to certify the entire winemaking process. Why did you decide to opt for this certification?
[RS/DB]: We did it because we had the opportunity to experience it in 2018. Little by little I moved away from the use of SO2, until I suggested trying a wine without using it. I felt like an innovator, without knowing the real magnitude of this.
[TaV]: Virgen wines do not have SO2 added, so special care must be taken during the transport of wines. How did you come up with the idea for a blanket? How does it help protect wines?
[RS/DB]: The theory says that the temperature is very harmful, so in a wine like this, in which there is no protection, extreme care is taken. Today with experience, we understand that both in Virgin and in the rest, the temperature is harmful, so we put the blanket in all shipments. It helps by generating an air chamber between the wall of the transport container and the wine box, obtaining less impact from the outside temperature on our bottles.
[TaV]: What is the expected shelf life of Virgen wines?
[RS/DB]: Initially I was not optimistic, today with more than 5 years of experience, we still have 2018 stock, and it remains correct.
[TaV]: Somewhat related question: Once virgin wines have arrived at someone’s home, how should they be stored? How long can they be stored before having to consume them?
[RS/DB]: It must be stored like the rest, away from light, with a temperature no higher than 20°C and no less than 5°C.
[TaV]: Can “SO2-free” wines age? Did you experiment with that?
[RS/DB]: It is a challenge that we have ahead of us, to work with sulfite-free wines for aging, we are working on it, but for the moment they are only projects.
[TaV]: I see that Domaine Bosquet is not only organic, it is also certified Organic Regenerative. How is Regenerative Organic different from just Organic? What did you have to do to obtain the Regenerative Organic certification? How long did it take you?
[RS/DB]: ROC is something incredible, and for this I recommend watching KISS the Ground. He will answer better than anyone. It took us a few years to certify it, but I don’t work extra, considering that our philosophy coincides 100%
[TaV]: Last question. Far beyond viticulture, Domaine Bosquet is also a certified B Corp. Why did you decide to become a B Corp? Why is this important for you?
[RS/DB]: As with ROC, the coincidence in our philosophy, measuring the social and environmental impact, led us to this certification in a natural way.
Obviously, the proof is in the pudding glass, so next I tasted the wines, and – spoiler alert – was blown away. Here are my notes in the exact order I tasted the wines:
2021 Domaine Bousquet Virgen Natural Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina (14% ABV, $13, no added SO2)
Dark garnet
Chocolate and tobacco on the nose, a hint of berries
Blackberries, a hint of cassis, black plums, minerally driven, rich and luscious, good structure, crisp acidity.
8, outstanding on its own, and a great surprise as the wine is unoaked.
2021 Domaine Bousquet Virgen Natural Malbec Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina (14% ABV, $13, no added SO2)
Dark Garnet
A hint of barnyard upon opening. On the second day barnyard smell disappeared, leaving behind only dark fruit.
On the palate, the wine is just spectacular. Imagine taking a load of perfectly ripe, perfectly crunchy, perfectly fresh berries – blueberries, raspberries, and wild strawberries, and sending it into your mouth – now you know how this wine tastes. Perfect structure, perfect balance, perfect acidity.
8+/9-, kudos to the winemaker.
2022 Domaine Bousquet Virgen Natural Chardonnay Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina (13.5% ABV, $13, no added SO2)
Light golden
Asian pear, herbs
The palate is matching the nose, Asian pear, a touch of honey, herbs.
7/7+ first day. The wine somewhat improved on the second day, but overall didn’t go anywhere near the reds
And here is my “Frame of reference”:
2021 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza (14.5% ABV, $19.99)
Garnet
Dark berries, cherries
A touch of cassis, eucalyptus, clean, classic, perfectly balanced, good acidity.
8, very good
2021 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza (14.5% ABV, $19.99)
Garnet
Dark fruit, espressoFresh berries, salivating acidity, medium body, playful, perfectly balanced.
8+, delicious.
Let’s discuss our tasting.
First, both of the no SO2 reds were outstanding. The unadulterated fresh berries are really something to experience when they are delivered in a fully balanced, perfectly structured way. No SO2 Cabernet Sauvignon was perfectly on par with the reserve Cabernet Sauvignon; I liked no SO2 Malbec even more than the reserve version, even though I wouldn’t complain about either. Second, I managed to get the answer to the question about the aging of the no SO2 wines. I left both no SO2 Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec on the countertop, closing back the screw cap, and the wines were perfectly delicious on the second and third days. In my book, that means that the wines have at least another 10 years of life easily. Not that I’m suggesting that you should age these wines, but it is good to know that you really don’t have to consume them the same day you got them from the store.
Here you are, my friends – organic, no SO2, and delicious. These wines are worth seeking out, whether you care about sulfites or not. And if you have friends who complain about headaches and sulfites – they might love you even more after they will taste these wines. If you had a chance to taste these wines already – let me know what you think!
The Land Whispers… You Just Need To Listen
I love wine dinners. Especially the wine dinners with the winemaker.
I dread wine dinners. Especially the wine dinners with the winemaker.
I know, I don’t make much sense at the moment. Wine dinners are wonderful, and I really do love them. The dreadful part comes from the experience of not being able to write about those wine dinners in a timely fashion. “Timely fashion”, huh – there are wine dinners I never wrote about in 5 years and such memories can hunt you down – they definitely do for me. I don’t know why this is happening on a regular basis – the elation often experienced during open and engaging conversations about wine becomes an ephemeral spirit, woefully resistful and easily escaping the slightest attempt to capture it in the form of words…
Let’s see if I will be able to break my unsettling tradition.
Last week I had a wonderful time and experience tasting the wines of Viñedos Veramonte and speaking with Gonzalo Bertelsen, General Manager and Head Winemaker in a small group of wine lovers, around the dinner table at the Monterey Brasserie in New York. The conversation topics were ranging from low-alcohol wines (is that really a trend? Are people really asking for it or is that just a gimmick?) to the production of organic and biodynamic wines to “why Germans don’t want to drink organic wines from Chile” (I will not tell you why but you are welcome to guess) and to many other far and between. But most importantly we got to enjoy Viñedos Veramonte wines with and without the food.
Viñedos Veramonte was one of the first wineries in the Casablanca region, founded in 1990 by Agustin Huneeus, a Chilean wine pioneer. From the very beginning, the winery embraced organic viticulture – and more recently, the winery spent more than 6 years making estate vineyards officially organic certified, obtaining ECOCERT® organic certification, one of the most respected in the world. The project involved the conversion of more than 1,200 acres of vineyards in Casablanca and Colchagua valleys to organic and biodynamic farming, with the aim to also become fully Demeter’s biodynamic certified – which requires making changes in the winery, not only in the vineyard – plus importers also have to be biodynamic certified.
Viñedos Veramonte produces 4 distinct lines of wines – Veramonte, Ritual, Primus, and Neyen – all from organic grapes, of course. We had an opportunity to taste wines from all 4 lines.
We started with the 2022 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Casablanca Valley ($13.99 SRP). This wine has one of the biggest productions, and it is very important for Veramonte. Preserving freshness is paramount, so special care is taken to prevent any oxidation of the grapes and juice, and the wine is bottled as soon as possible. The wine was herbaceous and crisp, delicious on its own but also nicely supporting our first course – Grande Plateau of seafood containing oysters, clams, tuna tartare, and lobster. The Sauvignon Blanc pairing with the oysters was the best – and the oysters were delicious, probably my favorite component of the Grand Plateau.
Next, we moved on to the 2019 Ritual Chardonnay Casablanca Valley ($20.99 SRP, fermented in oak barrels and concrete tanks). I wrote about Ritual wines many times, last time only a few months ago – the wines are consistently delicious. The wine was paired with a choice of appetizer – crispy artichokes or barbecued prawns. I selected crispy artichokes, forgetting that artichokes are notoriously difficult to be paired with wine. The dish was delicious on its own, and the wine was also good – on its own.
We also tried the 2020 Primus Carmenere Apalta DO ($20.99 SRP) with our appetizer course. The wine was excellent and had a nice profile of cassis supported by the bell peppers, showing off the pyrazines. Some of the winemakers are trying to prevent the pyrazines from showing up by changing growing conditions, harvesting regime and more – but I personally enjoy the pyrazines’ flavor very much, it adds to the authenticity of the wine. While Carmenere was still not a perfect match for the artichokes, it offered a bit better pairing than the Chardonnay.
Now we were ready for the main course, and the new wine arrived.
Last December I had an opportunity to try for the first time yet another Veramonte wine called Neyen. Neyen vineyards are located on a small parcel of land situated between the Andes Mountains and the Coastal Range. Neyen wines are literally always a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Carmenere, both coming from truly the old vines – Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted in 1889, joined by Carmenere in 1936, which makes the vines respectively 134 and 87 years old.
In the local dialect, Neyen means “whisper”. The land whispers, you only need to listen to her – low intervention is what the Neyen winemakers practice. And this is the whisper you can taste.
The wine literally stopped me in my tracks. You know that stupid smile that you can’t control when something good is happening? This was my face upon the first whiff of the 2003 Neyen Espíritu de Apalta Apalta DO ($N/A) – the first vintage of Neyen wine ever produced. The time stopped – there was only the endless pleasure of aromatics that only mature wine can bring.
Time, wait. Don’t move. I’m still enjoying it. Please, just a few more moments.
Cassis and eucalyptus on the nose. Cassis and eucalyptus on the palate, silky smooth, perfectly integrated tannins, full body of the mature wine at its absolute peak, pleasure slowly descending layer after layer. This is the case where the words are clearly insufficient to describe the joy of the oenophile, but I hope I offered at least a glimpse.
For the main course, I selected Bluefin Tuna au Poivre with baby beets and citrus sauce – and to my delight, the 2003 Neyen offered a perfect pairing, elevating every bite of the food.
We also had the 2016 Neyen, Espíritu de Apalta Apalta DO ($N/A). Tasting 2016 after 2003 was somewhat of a mistake. 2016 is an excellent wine, but the beautiful core we were able to experience in 2003 was still covered by layers of baby fat, the wine showing a lot richer, almost jammy on the first sip, and in need of time to open up.
The culmination point of our evening, though, was … a bit unexpectedly, as we are talking about Chilean wines … the Malbec. 2019 Neyen Espíritu de Apalta Malbec Apalta DO ($149.99 SRP). 2016 was the first released vintage of this super low-intervention wine – harvested and destemmed by hand, fermented in small tanks, no machines, no electricity used in the production of this wine, aging only in 3rd and 4th use French oak barrels. This is the crown jewel of the Veramonte Neyen collection – even James Suckling agrees, rating this wine at 100 points. Only 200 cases of the wine were produced in 2019, with the US allocation standing at 40 cases.
The main word I would use to describe this wine would be “elegant”. The wine was showing beautiful eucalyptus notes, a lot leaner than most of the Argentinian Malbecs, begging comparison with old world Malbec, the Cahors. Elegant, layered, delicious.
And this, my friends, brings us to the end of the wonderful evening. The company was great, the food was excellent, the wines were amazing.
Mother Nature whispers, and good things happen when we listen. I wish I had a case of this 2003 Neyen Espiritu de Apalta – that would really make me happy. Well, we generally don’t get to have all the things we want – and I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience such wines at least once.
Veramonte wines offer a great selection for every budget and every palate – check them out when you will have a chance. Cheers!
New Releases From Bodegas Beronia
When it comes to Rioja, Bodegas Beronia is a relative newcomer, founded in 1973 by a group of friends who fell in love with La Rioja while visiting on a holiday – compared with many of the Rioja’s finest taking its roots from the 19th century.
I wrote about Beronia wines many times before, so instead of sending you to this link to read about the winery itself, here is simply an excerpt from that post:
The name Beronia is not random – here is the explanation: “name linked to the history of the land where the winery is found. In the 3rd Century BC, the area known as Rioja today was inhabited by a Celtic tribe called the ‘Berones’. They inhabited the towns of Tricio, Varea, and Leiva, marking the limits of the Berones region, today La Rioja.”
Originally, the wines were produced literally by friends for the friends, without much thought of commercial sales. In 1982, Bodegas Beronia became a part of González Byass family, and at that point, wines of Bodegas Beronia started to appear on the international markets.
Beronia style starts in the vineyard, practicing sustainable viticulture. Different vineyards are used for different types of wines – Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva. For example, Gran Reserva wines are typically produced from 80-90 years old vineyards. And talking about the style, wines are manipulated as little as possible.
Bodegas Beronia Rioja wines represent an intersection of tradition and modernity. While “traditional” and “modern” styles of Rioja can be a subject of great debate with a lot of wine consumed to prove the point, I would offer a very simplistic viewpoint. Tempranillo has a great affinity to the oak; the resulting Rioja wine is well influenced by the oak regimen. Traditionally, Rioja is matured in American oak casks. Modern-style Rioja often uses French oak. Here is your style distinction – American oak versus French. Bodegas Beronia goes a step further than many. They create their own barrels, using both American and French oak elements in one barrel. Thus the wine is not defined by blending of the separately aged components, but instead, it is aging in a mixed environment.
Now, here is something I never shared before. In June of 2018, I had an opportunity to attend a lunch with Bodegas Beronia winemaker, Matias Calleja. During that lunch, we were able to actually taste the differences between the same exact wine, 2015 Tempranillo, aged for 18 months in 3 different types of oak – French, American, and Beronia’s own, mixed.
When we tasted these three wines side by side, the wine aged in the American oak had the brightest fruit. The French oak-aged was more earthy and had a bigger presence on the palate. The wine aged in the mixed barrels provided the most complexity, and fell in the middle, with interesting spicy notes. Pepper, which is not a typical Tempranillo descriptor, was very pronounced on the mixed barrels. The mixed-barrel one was my favorite.
Now, we can talk about the latest release from Bodegas Beronia – pay attention to the notes on the oak regimen:
2022 Bodegas Beronia Rosé Rioja DOC (13.5% ABV, $12.99, 55% Garnacha, 45% Tempranillo)
Very light pink, almost a rose gold
Very restrained, a hint of underripe strawberries
Crisp, tart, very limited fruit, a distant hint of strawberries with a tartness of cranberries, medium finish
8-, Provençal style, clean, refreshing
2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza DOC (13.5% ABV, $14.99, 95% Tempranillo, 4% Garnacha, 1% Mazuelo, 12 months in mixed American oak (staves) and French oak (ends) barrels, 3 months in the bottle)
Dark garnet
Cherries, cigar box, a hint of sweet tobacco
On the first day, the wine had a lot of baby fat, too round
Second day – much better, tart cherries with good acidity and earthy undertones.
8-, needs time. The wine is either genuinely too young, or this is a problem with the screwtop enclosure, not allowing the wine to properly breathe, therefore properly mature.
2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva DOC (13.5% ABV, $24.99, 95% Tempranillo, 4% Graciano, 1% Mazuelo, 18 months in mixed American and French oak barrels, 18 months in the bottle)
Dark garnet
Earthy, dense, inviting
A hint of barnyard, tart cherries, vanilla, good acidity, good balance
8-/8, elegant and round. Asking for food
2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva (14.5% ABV, $29.99, 94% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano, 1% Mazuelo, 28 months in French oak barrels, 36 months in the bottle)
Dark Garnet
A touch of barnyard, dark and earthy, anis appeared on the 3rd day
Cigar box, sapidity, roasted meat, cherries and plums, clean acidity, firm structure, well-integrated tannins. On the third day, a touch of espresso on the finish.
8+, delicious. Will evolve. I would love to taste this wine in 10 years. And then in 20.
Just to summarize this tasting experience – the Rosé was excellent. I really didn’t love the screw top on Crianza – I believe it doesn’t let the wine properly mature in the bottle. And the Gran Reserva for $30 MSRP is the wine to get by the case and let it gracefully mature…
What were your latest Rioja discoveries?
Experience Lugana in New York
“Drink your Lugana young, very young and you will enjoy its freshness. Drink it after two or three years and you will enjoy its fullness. Drink it after ten years and you will be amazed by its dignified authoritativeness. Lugana wines, a rarity of their kind, have an extraordinary ability to make themselves known. If you taste a Lugana, and you are a competent taster, you cannot forget it”
– Luigi Veronelli
Imagine yourself sitting by the lake, a beautiful lake.
Source: Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC
Let’s make it more precise, to make the picture vivid.
Imagine yourself sitting by Lake Garda in Northern Italy, on a beautiful summer day. The water is tranquil, there are tiny waves and an endless horizon. Next to you, there is a little table with a glass of white wine. You take the glass, take a sip of the wine. The wine is delicious, it is locally made, it is called Lugana, and you take another sip of the liquid pleasure. You capture the moment of this pure, hedonistic pleasure in your memory, Next, you put the glass down and go back to your happy thoughts. In that moment, life is absolutely perfect.
What if I will tell you that you don’t have to travel to Italy right this moment to experience this life’s perfection? What if this experience can come to you?
If you live in New York or the New York area or plan to visit the city over the next few weeks, you are in luck. Instead of you going to Lugana, Lugana is coming to you. The Lugana wine experience is coming to New York. And this Lugana experience will move past just the Lugana wine itself – it will bring you the ultimate gourmet’s salvation – wine and food paired together.
Starting on Monday, June 12th, 19 producers from Lugana will have their wines paired at a series of dinners taking place at 6 New York restaurants (I will give you a full list of restaurants and producers in a minute). All the wines will be specifically paired with the dishes – and as someone who never visited Lugana, I was really curious about what one can expect to find on such special dinner menus. I reached out to Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC which is organizing this event, and asked a simple question (or two): What is the traditional Lugana food? What are the traditional pairings for the Lugana dishes and wines? Here is the reply that I received:
“Like all Italian wines with century-long traditions linking them to their place of origin, Lugana is lovingly paired with the classic gastronomic repertoire of the region. This of course includes dishes of freshwater fish: from the lake, river or stream, whether noble or poor. But even better-known sea fish can be happily matched with this refined and versatile white. Therefore the “base” version can be readily paired with seafood antipasti, fried pessìn (small fish or whitebait from the paddy fields), boiled bass, boiled shrimps and large carp. The Superiore and the Riserva are literally the perfect partner for richer and more complex dishes, such as pike in sauce (boiled pike with anchovies lightly sautéed in oil, from Lake Garda of course), grilled eel, trout with grape, risotto with frogs, as well as grilled crustaceans, peppered clams, salted bass, and several white meat dishes, such as chicken, capon and rabbit (especially roasted in the oven). The Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest) wines are ideally matched with cheeses, from the fresher varieties such as ricotta, robiola and crescenza, to the more seasoned and flavoursome such as several exquisite D.O.P. cheeses like Monte Veronese, Grana Padano and Provolone Valpadana. Spumante has a broad range of possible pairings, since this “bubbly” wine can be served right throughout the meal. However, since a spumante is usually uncorked at the beginning of a lunch or dinner, why not try it with all types of antipasto, ranging from the broad range of tasty local cold meats to the wide variety of egg-based dishes. Instead avoid serving it with dessert. The versatility of this wine does not stop here. International tastes are certainly no obstacle for Lugana. This white wine, either in its “base” version, Spumante, Superiore or Riserva, is in fact the perfect match for raw fish, from the Japanese sashimi and sushi to all the variations on the theme proposed at the international level. It is also ideal with salmon and tuna and the perfect match for seafood finger food. Ideal serving temperature (in broad bowl tulip-shaped wine glasses for all varieties): Lugana Spumante at 8°C; Lugana “base” at 12°C; Lugana Superiore and Riserva at 14°C; Lugana Vendemmia Tardiva at 12°C.”
Lugana wines are produced from the local indigenous variety called Turbiana. Lugana wines can be still, sparkling, and late harvest (sweet), but no matter what the style is, they are literally guaranteed to be delicious. I had an opportunity to do a little preview of what someone might anticipate experiencing during the tasting – here are my notes on 3 wines that will be presented during the tasting:
2022 Corte Sermana Cromalgo Lugana DOC (13% ABV)
Straw pale
Beautiful intensity of tropical fruit, lemon and honey
Lemon and lemon zest, a hint of white peach and underripe white plum, tart, perfectly structured, with medium-long, tart finish
8, delicious.
2022 Ottella Lugana DOC (12.5% ABV)
Straw pale
Tropical fruit, guava, lemon, honey, herbaceous undertones
Crisp, fresh, tight, Meyer lemon, clean acidity, a tiny hint of gunflint.
8, imbues seafood craving
2022 Perla del Garda Lugana DOP (12.5% ABV)
Straw pale
Tropical fruit, honey, fresh, inviting, enticing, seductive. It says “drink me”
Beautiful. Fresh Whitestone fruit, cut through acidity, lemon. Crisp, fresh, delicious. A happy wine that can transpose you.
8+, superb. Had a few friends try this wine too, and they were literally blown away by it.
As promised, here is the list of participating restaurants, dinner dates, and the wines which will be poured at each:
IL FIORISTA (Monday, June 12, 2023)
Le Morette, Mandorlara 2022
Cantine Di Verona, Torre di Falasco 2022
Tommasi, Le Fornaci
VICEVERSA (Tuesday, June 13, 2023)
Ca’ Maiol, Lugana Prestige 2022
Scolari, Lugana Doc Premium 2022
Zenato, Riserva 2020
GNOCCO (Monday, June 19, 2023)
Sguardi di Terra, Riserva 2018 Fachetnabia
Selva Capuzza, Selva 2021
Ceresa, Ceresa 2022
Montonale, Montunal 2022
HEARTH (Monday, June 19, 2023)
Zeni 1870, Vigne Alte 2022
Tenuta Roveglia, Vigne Catullo Riserva 2019
Famiglia Olivini, Lugana 2022
MISIRIZZI (Wednesday, June 21, 2023)
Pasini, Il Lugana 2022
Perla del Garda, Madonna della Scoperta 2021
Citari, Conchiglia 2022
OSTERIA CARLINA TRIBECA (Thursday, June 22, 2023)
Corte Sermana, Riserva 2017
Vigneti Villabella, Lugana 2022
Ottella, Lugana 2022
You can find additional details of the Lugana festivities in New York on the Destination Lugana website.
This is not every day that instead of you going to your travel destination to experience delicious life’s offerings, the travel destination comes to you. This is your chance for a memorable experience and I hope you will not miss it.
And I will be sure to tell you more… Who knows, maybe we will run into each other during one of the dinners. Cheers!
Restaurant Files: 360 Experience – Çka ka Qëllu in Stamford, Connecticut
Wow, it’s been over 4 years since I posted about the restaurant visit on these pages. “Restaurant files” used to be a regular feature on this blog, and yesterday’s restaurant experience offered a perfect opportunity to bring it back, so here we are.
Think about your restaurant visits. Sometimes, we love the food, but the wine list is not up to snuff, and the cocktails are just bland and tasteless. Sometimes, the food and wine are amazing, but you can’t stand the ambiance (this was my case recently while visiting Firefly in Las Vegas – one of my favorite restaurants, just moved to the new location, and the food became even better while I actively despised the decor). Sometimes, all is great, but not the service. Some other times, all is good, but the experience simply can’t cost that much.
And then there are those where everything works, delivering that wonderful feeling of a great, memorable experience. I took the liberty to call such a situation a 360 experience – an all-around happy experience.
I was interested in visiting this new restaurant in Stamford, Çka ka Qëllu, for a while. The restaurant offers Albanian cuisine which I’m not familiar with. And it is not only food – the wine list also contains a couple of Albanian wines. I never had Albanian wines, so I’m obviously curious – and it is also an opportunity to add a checkmark to my collection of wines around the world. Last but not least is the fact that the restaurant participates in Marriott’s Eat Around Town program – who can say no to the bonus points?
The moment we walked into the restaurant, we were instantly transported to different place and different time. I remember walking in the center of Tokyo, along a wide, modern street, wondering what restaurant my host is taking me to. We took a turn under the bridge, and we instantly traveled probably 400 years back, to the old place where food was cooked by the open fire in the tiny stores, and dining tables were rustic, eternal wooden benches. At the Çka ka Qëllu, I had exactly the same feeling – we traveled to medieval Europe, just 3 miles away from our house. All the decor, the tunnel leading to the kitchen, the old clock on the wall… The whole time we were at the restaurant, I kept looking for more of the unique tiny details.
First, the drinks. Out of the long list of craft cocktails, my wife went for the Strawberry Margarita, which was absolutely delightful – very reasonable sweetness and a pop of fresh strawberries. I knew that I wanted to try an Albanian wine – I didn’t see it offered by the glass, but when I asked our waiter if I can get a glass of Albanian white wine, the answer was “of course”. I was honestly not expecting much, but the very first whiff of the glass of the 2019 Stone Castle Chardonnay Reserve Rahoveci Valley Kosovo brought me to the happy land. This was beautiful, classic Chardonnay, with vanilla, apples, a hint of perfectly integrated butter notes with honey – as classic as Chardonnay gets.
We ordered a few appetizers – Pepper Dip, Mantia (veal-stuffed small fried dumplings), and Burek (a pastry with cheese or meat, we ordered cheese). The appetizers showed up with two loaves of fresh bread which I’m sure is made at a restaurant. That bread was absolutely delicious and was perfect with the pepper dip. As a bonus, the flavor of the cheese the pepper dip was made with was reminiscent of the famous Georgian Khachapuri. The dumplings were delicious too. Burek was served with two sauces – a sweet pepper relish and another one reminiscent of the fresh buttermilk – not sure what it was, but very tasty.
For the main course, my wife decided on Qofte (traditional Albanian grilled veal meatballs marined with onions, crushed red pepper & herbs) – delicious is not even a sufficient word that can describe the flavor profile. I’ve chosen Fasul (soup style traditional dish with simmering white beans, and onions, slowly cooked in meat). I love white beans in any form, and by description, the dish was reminiscent of my beloved French Cassoulet, so I decided on this entree as soon as I saw it on the menu. I made the right choice – the dish was served in a small clay vessel and this dish was a pure comfort on the plate – delicious to the smallest, tiniest little morsel.
Traveling through space and time with Çka ka Qëllu made for a great Friday evening – a true 360, all-around experience (I didn’t mention the service that was timely, attentive, and friendly), just a few minutes away from our house. If you are living in Stamford or nearby, Çka ka Qëllu is definitely a place to visit. And you can thank me later – but don’t feel obliged.
We will definitely be back. Cheers!
Stories of Passion and Pinot: Eugenia Keegan
Joseph Swan Vineyards. Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet. Hop Kiln Winery in the Russian River Valley, Bouchaine Vineyards in Carneros, Vine Cliff Winery in Oakville.
Keegan Cellars in Russian River Valley, dedicated to single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Oregon.
France again, this time Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Roussillon.
And back to Oregon.
This is not a random list – these are some of the places where Eugenia Keegan, born fifth generation to a family with deep roots in the Russian River Valley, worked during more than 45 years of her wine-centered career.
Working in the cellar. Working in the vineyard. Making wines. Managing wineries. Managing wine businesses. Going beyond just a business, Eugenia had been actively involved in Oregon’s wine world at a higher level as chair of the board of directors of the Oregon Wine Board, president of the Oregon Winegrowers Association, president of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association Board, and co-chair of Willamette: The Pinot Noir Auction. And to top it all off, Eugenia was named the 2021 Wine Executive of the Year as part of Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 2021 Wine Star Awards.
Since 2016, Eugenia is working as a senior vice president of winemaking and business development for Jackson Family Wines’ Oregon properties, overseeing the winemaking programs for Gran Moraine, Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, WillaKenzie Estate, and Zena Crown Vineyard.
Eugenia Keegan. Source: Jackson Family Wines
A conversation about Oregon’s Willamette Valley wine inexplicably means a conversation about Pinot Noir. As you probably know by now, conversations about Oregon’s Pinot Noir had been one of the longest-running themes on the blog, a collection of winemaker interviews under the Stories of Passion and Pinot. As most of Eugenia’s winemaking career rotated around Pinot Noir, I thought that a conversation with her would be a great addition to the series – and with the help of Carl Giavanti, I managed to sit down (virtually) and talk with Eugenia.
Here is what transpired in our conversation:
[TaV]: How is this managing 4 different wineries with their own established style and following? Do you enforce JFW brand identity or encourage individuality?
[EK]: Individuality is a major part of our success. JFW provides the tools and overarching guidance (safety and quality). Each winery is encouraged to find its own personality based on the estates and people that are key to that brand.
[TaV]: You personally produced Pinot Noir in California and Oregon. If it is at all possible to “average out”, how would you describe the difference between California and Oregon Pinot Noir?
[EK]: Weather and light are the key differentiating factors when comparing these two areas. The long summer evenings allow the grapes to catch up to a warmer area like parts of California that bud out earlier and the cool Septembers allow the Oregon fruit to mature during cooler days, pushing fresh fruit and higher acidities.
[TaV]: You started in the wine early, and you were born in Sonoma, so wine obviously is in your DNA, but nevertheless – did you have a pivotal wine in your life? The one you tasted and said, “now I understand”?
[EK]: Yes indeed! But after I was in the business. I recall with absolute clarity while in Ireland having a 1985 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne and “knew” that this was the benchmark of great chardonnay and have been in pursuit of that ever since. There were many fabulous Burgundies, both red and white, along the way that continue to provide inspiration years later.
[TaV]: Thinking about your long career in wine, do you have any regrets? Is there anything you would do differently knowing what you know now?
[EK]: I would have stayed in Burgundy longer. After each of my stagiaire I quickly came home excited to apply what I had learned. If I knew then how long a road this would be, I would have stayed longer and probably have tried to work there full time.
[TaV]: What is the sustainability story for Jackson Family Wines in Oregon? Where are you now and what are your plans for the future?
[EK]: Throughout our 40 years in business, the Jackson family has long prioritized natural resource conservation and environmental stewardship. We embrace climate-smart farming and winemaking practices that lower our environmental impacts, including preserving open space to building soil health and reducing our water and energy use. These sustainability values and practices extend to all regions where we grow and make wine, including Oregon. In fact, our Oregon properties have been on the forefront of many initiatives that we’re proud of as a global wine company. Less than 35% of our total acres are planted to vines to protect natural habitats and wildlife. Each year, we generate enough onsite renewable energy to offset the annual consumption of approximately 15 homes in Oregon. It’s also worth pointing out that our WillaKenzie Estate was the first LIVE-certified winery in Oregon, so it has a long history and legacy of sustainability leadership. All of our other Oregon vineyards and wineries are also certified through the LIVE program.
So, whether it’s through sustainability certification, our commitment to protecting natural habitats, or use of renewable energy, Oregon has had a positive impact on our overall Jackson Family Wines Rooted for Good: Roadmap to 2030 sustainability and climate action efforts. And, they will play a major role in our efforts to reach or goals for 2030.
[TaV]: Are there any plans to convert to organic viticulture at any of the JFW properties in Oregon?
[EK]: At this time, there is no plan to convert our estate vineyards towards organic farming in Oregon. As I mentioned all our vineyards are currently LIVE certified and as part of our Rooted for Good: Roadmap 2030 sustainability plan, we made a commitment to transition 100% of our estate vineyards to regenerative farming practices, including in Oregon. We believe this transition to regenerative agriculture is the best approach for maintaining a healthy ecosystem. By using a lighter touch, regenerative farming will leave our lands healthier for future generations so we can continue to craft distinctive, beautiful wines for the next hundred years. For us, we define regenerative farming as a set of farming principles and practices that increases biodiversity, enriches soil heath, improves watersheds and enhances the ecosystem surrounding our vines. Key regenerative farming practices include rebuilding soil organic matter through limited tillage and adding carbon rich compost and other nutrients; increasing biodiversity in and around our vineyard with cover crops and livestock integration (sheep + chickens); and reducing synthetic chemical inputs. Beyond the environmental benefits of regenerative farming, we also believe it’s the best approach for wine quality.
[TaV]: We repeatedly hear that the young generation (Gen Z, I guess) doesn’t want to drink wine. Do you agree with this? If yes, what needs to be done to change that?
[EK]: I think that the approach to wine is very different for younger consumers. My generation grew up with wine as mystical and magical. Everything was done in the ancient European tradition. I think for people growing up in the US now, wine is just another beverage option, not an extension of some old culture. I consider this a huge opportunity to move outside the traditional European varieties and styles and a chance to experiment. And along the way I believe that many will find the same magic and mystery of the ancients.
[TaV]: This might be the only question I like to ask all the winemakers I’m speaking with – what is your take on biodynamic viticulture?
[EK]: There are two things that I love about biodynamics: the whole farm concept and the attention to detail. And the beauty is that these two principles apply to any approach to farming and land stewardship.
[TaV]: What is ahead for the Willamette Valley wine in general? What do you think will happen over the next 10 years?
[EK]: I think that in the traditional world we will see Chardonnay and sparkling wines take their position on the global stage next to our Pinot Noirs. And I think that we will see a lot of new and interesting wines from the younger winemakers.
[TaV]: Are there any plans to add more wineries to the JFW collection in Oregon?
[EK]: We are always looking for the best sites for winegrowing everywhere in the world. Oregon is no exception, but for now we are pretty busy with what we have.
[TaV]: Is there a wine you always wanted to make but still didn’t have a chance?
[EK]: Working with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for 50 years has been everything that I could ask for. But I would not mind taking a crack at Chenin Blanc and Grenache, two of my favorite wines.
[TaV]: Are there any problems facing Oregon wineries now, or is everything is perfectly clear on the horizon?
[EK]: There is climate change of course. The fascinating thing about climate change is that it is a global challenge. EVERY winegrowing area in the world is facing this same issue. That helps in working toward solutions. But nothing that is existential to Oregon.
[TaV]: Can Oregon ever produce the wine rivaling DRC? Leaving the image aside, maybe a better question is: is there an Oregon Pinot Noir that you know of which can take on DRC in the blind tasting?
[EK]: HA, that is a loaded question! Oregon cannot make Burgundy anymore than Burgundy can make Oregon. Can Oregon wines give one the same pleasure and satisfaction as the great wines of Burgundy? Yes indeed.
[TaV]: Do you have unicorn wine? The wine you always wanted to try? For example, I have two – DRC and Quintarelli Amarone. What would be yours?
[EK]: After several hours of thinking about this, the answer is no. BUT having said that I still have that same thirst for winegrowing knowledge that I had 50 years ago and continue to explore new regions and wines every day.
[TaV]: You and David Adelsheim have been friends and partners for a long time. How did you meet and how would you characterize your relationship? Do you talk business or keep church and state separate?
[EK]: David and I met at the Steamboat Pinot Noir Conference in the early 80’s. We found that we shared a lot of interests in common not just being fully engaged as producers of Pinot Noir (before Sideways) in full throttle pursuit of wine quality and healthy sales. We are still the very best of friends with a dash of romance thrown in. NO, there is no division of church and state. We talk wine ALL the time.
Here you are – another addition to the Stories of Passion and Pinot. I hope you enjoyed this encounter with the winemaker’s passion and maybe even learned something new.
Until the next time…
P.S. For more stories of Passion and Pinot please visit the series’ main page.
Wine Weekend of Ups and Downs
The life of an oenophile is never dull – of course, if an oenophile chooses such.
UP
Let’s talk about “ups” first.
Sine Qua Non. The legendary Sine Qua Non. The Sine Qua Non winery is unique in many ways. First and foremost, Sine Qua Non wines are unique. Of course, every winemaker is sure that his or her wines are unique. But for Sine Qua Non, these are not just bragging words. Every vintage, a different set of wines is produced, and wines do not or rarely repeat year after year. Each wine has a label designed by Manfred Krankl, who owns the winery together with his wife Elaine. And the wines are impossible to get – I had to wait for 10+ years to move from the waiting list to the mailing list.
My sister-in-law and her husband were visiting over the weekend. They both enjoy wine very much – which is a perfect reason to get out a special bottle. Sine Qua Non is better known for its Rhone-style reds, but they produce white wines as well. One of the first wines in my allocation was Sine Qua Non white wine. Communal notes on the internet seem to indicate that SQN white wines shouldn’t be aged for too long, so I decided that 4 years is a good age for this wine, to avoid any possible regrets (who am I kidding – there are always regrets when it comes to wine).
2019 Sine Qua Non Distenta 1 California White Wine (15.3% ABV) is a blend of 41% Roussanne, 26% Chardonnay, 14% Petit Manseng, 12% Viognier and 7% Muskat (Gelber Muskateller), fermented in barrel and matured on its lees, 23 months in 64% new French oak. The sublime nose of whitestone fruit, herbs, and flowers, with a distant hint of tropical fruit. And the palate, the bouquet… As a child, I loved to sing, and I spent some time in the chorus. I was perfectly fine singing in unison, but for the life of me, I could never do the canon, the subtype of polyphonic singing, where each singer has their own melody, and those melodies harmoniously combine together. This wine delivered such a canon singing – beautiful notes of sage, eucalyptus, tobacco, and whitestone fruit were changing into tropical fruit with a touch of bright honey notes. Somehow, it was possible to taste both profiles at the same time. I know I’m not describing it well, but this was the wine I really didn’t want to end… (Drinkability: 9)
By the way, an added bonus – it appears that I never had the Gelber Muskateller grape – and now I can unexpectedly increase my grape count.
DOWN
Over the years, I got two bottles of red wine from Newton Vineyards, a well-respected California winery, as presents, both from the same 2010 vintage, and both identical. I know the producer’s name, but it seems that I only tasted Newton Chardonnay before, and I have no memories of tasting their red wines.
Both bottles were gifted by the sister-in-law and her husband I just mentioned, so I thought their visit was a perfect opportunity to enjoy this wine together.
And so I opened the bottle of 2010 Newton The Puzzle Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14.5% ABV, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec).
And the bottle was corked.
I just recently mentioned in one of the social media discussions that I rarely encounter corked California wines. I guess I jinxed it… The cork faint was ever so slightly noticeable on the nose, and the palate kind of seemed okay, so I even decanted it and we even tried drinking it. The decanting made the corked nature of the wine even more apparent, and I pulled the second bottle.
The second bottle was not corked, and it was drinkable. However, it was a bit underwhelming. The fruit was there, it was possible to taste the cassis, but considering that this was a Californian wine, it showed leaner than expected. I would generally consider that Californian wine of such level need at least 20 years to develop, and under normal circumstances I would leave the second bottle alone for another 5-7 years, but oh well. We did enjoy it, of course, I was just hoping we would enjoy it more. (Drinkability: 8- )
STILL DOWN
I’m not going in chronological order here. The Newton red was planned to be the main wine to serve with dinner. As a “pre-gaming”, I gleefully pulled out the 2018 Alto Moncayo Veraton Campo de Borja (15.5% ABV). I opened a bottle of this 100% Garnacha last year, and it was absolutely spectacular from the get-go – succulent cherries and layers of pleasure. I loved the wine so much that it was included in the top two dozen list of 2022 wines as number 13.
Feeling great about myself, I opened the bottle and poured wine into the glasses. At the first tiniest sip, instead of excitement, my instant thought was “ohhh nooo, why is it so sweet???”. I also instantly knew that I’m in trouble with my sister-in-law, as she stopped drinking California Pinot Noirs for being too sweet… And her reaction was exactly what I was afraid of. After the first sip, she raised her head from the glass, looked at me inquisitively, and said with a wry smile “but why is it so sweet?”. This is when we put this bottle aside and proceeded with The Puzzle – and you just read how swimmingly well it went.
Truly, whatever goes up will go down.
AND UP AGAIN
Whatever went down still has a chance to go up.
The very next day, Veraton somewhat solidified at its core, the sweetness subsided, and the structure started to appear. On the third day, the wine was as delicious as I was expecting it to be – succulent ripe cherries, juicy and generous, with crunchy acidity and perfect balance. (Drinkability: 8+).
Here you go, my friends. Another weekend in wine – sometimes you win, sometimes you learn. With the exception of the corked bottle, which is never okay – but as my sales team always said, “it comes with the territory” – it was a great wine weekend, even with all the ups and downs. How was yours?
Guest Post: 7 Sustainability Trends in the Wine Industry
Today, I would like to offer to your attention a guest post by Julia Nikolaus, a content strategist for an LA-based company. She enjoys working with food and drink brands along with pet clients. In her free time, Julia likes to bake new recipes, take dance classes, and spend time outdoors.
Image Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/vGQ49l9I4EE
With climate change and environmental issues steadily increasing, sustainable wine production takes on even greater significance today.
Wine created with future generations in mind ensures the industry’s viability and a healthier planet, community, and business. In this blog post, we will explore how adopting eco-friendly practices from grape to bottle can lead to innovation, cost savings, and new opportunities while making consumers feel better about their choices. So, without further ado, here are seven trends leading us to a greener wine industry.
#1 – Organic and Biodynamic Farming
Organic and biodynamic farming, an agricultural approach steadily gaining popularity, emphasizes natural and sustainable practices. It involves using organic methods such as composting and avoiding pesticides while employing soil supplements prepared according to a biodynamic certification process. This method follows a planting calendar and includes homeopathic fertilizers and crop rotation.
In recent years, there has been a significant increase in the demand for organic and biodynamic farming methods. As a result, wineries now offer certified organic and biodynamic wines that benefit from enhanced soil health, reduced environmental impact, and assurance of all-natural productivity.
However, due to the intricate and comprehensive certification procedure, these benefits come with challenges that wineries must navigate carefully to label their product biodynamic. Examples of organic and biodynamic wineries include Quivira Vineyards, Kings Estate, Cakebread Cellars, and Left Coast Cellars just outside Salem, Oregon.
#2 – Regenerative Agriculture
Regenerative agriculture is a holistic approach grounded in the interconnectedness of farming systems and the environment. Historically, indigenous communities practiced these methods before modern industrial agriculture ever existed.
At the heart of this farming methodology lies an unwavering focus on soil health, the progenitor of resilient, nutritionally-dense crops that thrive in a sustainable and vibrant ecological system.
Some practical methods incorporated by regenerative vineyards such as Wilson Creek Winery and Robert Hall Wineries use sheep to fertilize instead of chemicals, chickens to eliminate pests, and cover crops to bolster soil fertility and prevent erosion.
Carbon sequestration, or reducing the amount of carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere during farming, can now be attained by wineries using holistic methodologies. As a result, regenerative agriculture has the potential to endure into the future and continue to be an instrumental agent in addressing and curbing the climatic impact while protecting the biodiversity found in nature.
#3 – Climate Change Mitigation
Climate change mitigation deals directly with the causes rather than the consequences of greenhouse gas emissions. The wine industry is no exception to these effects, as increasing temperatures and erratic weather patterns continue to affect grape quality and hinder the industry’s growth potential.
Wineries are taking action to combat greenhouse gas by implementing renewable energy sources, optimizing irrigation practices, and minimizing transportation emissions. Carbon offsetting, and certification programs like Carbon Trust and LIVE Certified, can also play an essential role in reducing the wine industry’s carbon footprint.
By adopting these mitigation measures and proactively striving to meet certification requirements, the wine sector can actively contribute to combating climate change and ensuring a more prosperous future for the industry.
#4 – Water Conservation
Water conservation, the practice of using water efficiently to reduce unnecessary usage, is crucial in the wine industry due to droughts and climate change. Wineries face water scarcity and quality challenges, requiring proactive, sustainable irrigation strategies for grape cultivation and wine production.
Effective techniques include drip irrigation for precise water application, rainwater harvesting to store and utilize natural resources, and wastewater treatment to recycle and reuse processed water.
Emphasizing these methods is vital for the sustainability of winemaking, ensuring our continued enjoyment of wines while responsibly managing valuable water resources.
Image Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/UbGYPMbMYP8
#5 – Waste Reduction
Waste reduction in the wine industry is at the top of the list throughout the production process, given its potential impact on the environment and overall sustainability. Various types and sources of waste associated with winemaking include packaging, chemicals, and byproducts generated during wine production.
By addressing these waste concerns, the wine industry can achieve significant benefits such as cost savings, resource efficiency, and a circular economy, thus contributing to a more environmentally-friendly production process.
There are several waste reduction strategies that wine industries can implement, which include reuse, recycling, and upcycling. For example, waste materials like grape pomace, a byproduct of winemaking, can be upcycled into valuable products such as bioenergy or food supplements. And packaging materials such as eco-friendly, reusable wine shipping boxes and inserts are easy to recycle to help wineries meet company initiatives.
#6 – Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services
The health and productivity of vineyards rely heavily on biodiversity and ecosystem services.
Biodiversity within vineyards encompasses the range of genetic, species, and ecosystem-level diversity among animals, plants, and microorganisms. Ecosystem services like pollination, decomposition, water purification, erosion and flood control, carbon storage, and climate regulation contribute to a flourishing and robust vineyard environment.
A diverse ecosystem is essential for sustaining robust vineyard health and productivity. However, threats to biodiversity, such as monoculture, invasive species, and habitat loss, disrupt ecosystem services and negatively impact vineyard health. For instance, monoculture practices can diminish natural habitats for beneficial organisms, thus reducing pollination services and pest control.
In the pursuit to preserve vineyard biodiversity and ecosystems, several initiatives focus on promoting sustainable practices. A few of those are soil health enhancements, conserving soil moisture, and attracting beneficial insects by planting cover crops.
In addition, setting up hedgerows support pollinators and pest controllers’ habitats. And agroforestry systems encourage diverse land use patterns, supporting multiple species of floras and faunas.
#7 – Social Responsibility
In the wine industry, social responsibility programs focus on promoting moderate consumption, environmental conservation and protection, and engagement with communities and social policy organizations to ensure the safety and well-being of employees and consumers.
Addressing ethical and social challenges such as labor rights, health and safety, and community engagement is crucial to a sustainable wine industry. Opportunities for social responsibility include adopting fair trade practices, embracing diversity and inclusion, and supporting philanthropic endeavors.
A few examples of social responsibility initiatives include employee training, local sourcing of materials, and organizing charity events for the community. Ultimately, the wine industry’s commitment to social responsibility demonstrates its dedication to ethical business practices and positive societal contributions.
Wrapping Up
In conclusion, the wine industry is experiencing a transformation through sustainability trends such as organic and biodynamic farming, regenerative agriculture, climate change mitigation, water conservation, waste reduction, biodiversity & ecosystem services, and social responsibility.
Wineries, consumers, and policymakers must embrace these practices and collaborate to chart a sustainable future. Let’s all raise a glass and commit to supporting a greener, more responsible wine industry for future generations.
Weekend in Turley, With a Dash Of Carlisle and Hardy
Many moons ago, my friend Henry and I discovered Turley wines. We were at a restaurant in Manhattan with our wives, either before or after the Broadway show, and on the wine list, Turley Zinfandel (either Juvenile or Old Vines) was one of the reasonably priced wines, so that was the wine we ordered. I don’t remember if I heard about Turley before (maybe), but tasting that wine was a pivotal moment – we fell in love with Turley wines.
Turley Wine Cellars was founded in Napa Valley by emergency room physician, Larry Turley in 1993, and went on to become one of the most prominent Zinfandel producers in the US. Turley produces about 50 different wines from about 50 different vineyards, most of them organically farmed, from all around California. Many of those vineyards date back to the late 1800s. While Turley might be best known for its Zinfandel and Petitte Sirah, they also produce a number of white wines, a number of other reds, and even Cabernet Sauvignon, first produced in 2010, and eloquently called The Label (Larry Turley’s famous saying was that Cabernet drinkers drink “the label”, hence the name – I had my own share of troubles with this wine).
Turley wines are hard to get in the store, and if you really would like to enjoy them at will, you need to be on the Turley mailing list. Turley was one of the very first mailing lists I managed to get on more than 10 years ago, and I had been a happy customer ever since. My friend Henry finally got his first allocation about two years back.
A place on the mailing list still doesn’t guarantee you access to each and every wine Turley makes, and their list operates on a “first come, first serve” basis – I missed quite a few wines that were included in my offering, but disappeared much sooner than I could make up my mind.
Last Saturday, Henry was coming over for dinner, so I had to make it a Turley evening.
Turley makes only two white wines – Sauvignon Blanc and a blend called White Coat. The wine we opened was the 2019 Turley Estate Sauvignon Blanc Turley Estate Napa Valley (13.4% ABV). It is interesting that Sauvignon Blanc was one of the original wines produced back in 1993. Sauvignon Blanc plantings at Turles Estate were replaced with Zinfandel, but then Sauvignon Blanc was planted again on a small section of the dry-farmed, certified organic vineyard. The wine was fermented using natural yeast and it was bottled after 6 months in 100% French, used oak barrels. The wine was an absolute delight, showing beautiful whitestone fruit, perfectly present, perfectly elegant, with fruit and acidity singing in complete balance.
I had a little bit left in the bottle after that evening, and on Sunday I was able to please the most discerning palate in our household – my mother-in-law. She came over for Mother’s Day on Sunday and wanted to drink the white wine. When it comes to wine, she is completely unpredictable, and I always try to pour her wine without showing the bottle – she has lots of preconceived notions about wines and the regions, so I’m always trying to make sure she will just try the wine first, and then I can tell her where it is from. To my delight, she liked the wine, and even when I told her the wine was from California, she still liked it – a serious achievement in this household.
Our next wine was 2021 Turley Zinfandel Rosé California (12% ABV). This wine sometimes is called White Zinfandel, but only to poke fun at the uninitiated (and the bottle is adorned with the white label). This wine is impossible to score – you literally have to press “buy” as soon as your summer offering arrives. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged in used French barriques. It is lip-smacking, it speaks cranberries and strawberries, it is very Provençal in its presentation, but Californian in its soul.
And then there was Tecolote – 2018 Turley Tecolote Paso Robles Red Wine (15.7% ABV). This wine is rarer than rare, as you need to know it exists, to begin with. I got it once through some special holiday offer, but it is never included into the standard seasonal offerings. This wine is typically only available in the tasting room, but being a mailing list member has some advantages – I asked if I can get a few bottles, and they arrived just in time for us to enjoy. This wine is a Spanish-inspired blend of 60% of Grenache and 40% Carignane, coming from the specific block in Pesenti Vineyard, planted in the 1920s. Tecolote means “owl” in Spanish, and this is how the vineyard block is also called. The wine offered layers of lip-smacking black cherries, kitchen spices and sweet tobacco. A perfect balance of textual presence, fruit and acidity made this wine disappear in no time…
Next, let me step away from the wine for a bit – but not from the grapes. I rarely talk about cognac on these pages, but then I have an experience to share.
On an average day, I’m a scotch drinker. But of course, I would never refuse a sip of a good cognac. The keyword is “good” – nowadays, it is difficult to find a good-tasting cognac at a reasonable price in the US. However, my recent cognac tasting with my school friend led me to the discovery of Cognac Expert. Subsequently, I got a recommendation from Cognac Expert for the cognac I now enjoy immensely – without any need to break the bank – Hardy Legend 1863 Cognac. This cognac was produced by the Cognac House of Hardy, to commemorate the founding of the Hardy house back in – yes, you guessed it – 1863. This cognac is a blend of spirits made from the grapes coming from Borderies and Petite Champagne growing areas, aged from 2 to 12 years and finished in classic Limousine oak. From the first enticing smell to the long-lasting, coffee-loaded finish, this cognac offers the ultimate pleasure of balance of fruit, spices, and acidity. And at $40, this might be the best QPR cognac out there today.
Last but not least – 2015 Carlisle Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard Sonoma Valley (14.9% ABV), which I opened on Sunday. Carlisle is another one of my favorite producers, specializing in Zinfandel, Syrah, and Petite Sirah – and some other grapes. The fruit for this wine came from the 130+ years old vineyard, planted in 1888. The wine was aged in French oak, 20% new. It is interesting that stylistically, this wine was similar to Turley Tecolote – succulent tart cherries on the nose and the palate, a touch of eucalyptus, refreshing acidity, perfect balance. This was an excellent wine to finish the weekend right.
Here you are, my friends – my weekend wine story. If you can find any of the wines mentioned in this post you should definitely look for them. And if you like cognac, this Hardy 1863 Legend is hard to beat. And you know where to find it.
Nevermind. I should have never told you that.
Until the next time – cheers!
Last Bottle Sign Up ($10 credit)
Talk-A-Vino 