Seeking Amarone: Grace and Beauty of Cesari Amarone Bosan
What do you think of Amarone? I know that some people simply dismiss it as an alcohol bomb, as many Amarone wines nowadays are sporting 16.5% ABV, and winemakers blame climate change. Okay, climate change is not the subject of this post, so let’s quickly rewind before we go too far.
Let me repeat the question – what do you think of Amarone? Love it, hate it, or indifferent?
While you are deep in your thoughts, let me share my take.
I love Amarone. I tried it for the first time in 2003, during Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World wine school class. The wine we tried was 1998 Le Ragoze Amarone. The contrast of dry fruit assemblage on the nose with lean, focused, powerful, and perfectly balanced palate was stunning, delicious and memorable. And that was the beginning of my love-hate relationship with Amarone (please keep reading, I promise to explain all the high emotions).
Maybe a quick historical perspective would be appropriate here. Amarone wines are made in the Valpolicella region in Veneto Province. While winemaking across Italy goes back to Roman times, Amarone has not been around for too long. Historically, the Valpolicella region was best known for its sweet wines called Recioto. The grapes for Recioto production were first dried under the sun to concentrate sugars (this process is called Appassimento), and subsequently made into the sweet wine. In 1936, supposedly, a barrel of Recioto was forgotten in the cellar, the fermentation continued, and resulted in the dry and powerful wine which was called Amarone, which means Great Bitter, contrasting it with sweet Recioto. Amarone wines began to be internationally recognized in 1970th. Amarone della Valpolicella received the status of DOC in 1990 and advanced to DOCG in 2010.
Amarone is not my pivotal wine. Actually, I don’t have a pivotal wine as some wine lovers do – many wines left lasting impressions on me and I would be very hard pressed to identify “one and only”. But Amarone is definitely one of my favorite wines – except that I more or less gave up on it for now.
The “Seeking Amarone” theme of this blog post is not random. I wrote a few posts under the same theme in the past (none as of late), as that spectacular experience with 1998 Le Ragoze happened to be really hard to replicate. With the exception of a few Masi single vineyard Amarone, most of the Amarone I taste are lacking balance, with alcohol being not well integrated and simply destroying any joy the wine could bring. Side note – 16.5% ABV in itself means nothing. Anyone who casually enjoyed Turley or Carlisle Zinfandels can attest to the perfect balance and harmony those wines exhibit, at the same 16.5% of ABV.
Possibly a bigger issue affecting Amarone was a dramatic expansion of the DOC growing area, which allowed subpar quality fruit to become a fuel for Amarone’s attempt to meet the global growing demand – Amarone production increased from 1 million bottles to 16 million bottles in 2008. However, that didn’t affect single vineyard Amarone, and this brings us to the intended subject of this post – Cesari Bosan Amarone, a single vineyard Amarone from the heart of the Amarone Classico di Valpolicella.
During the Tre Bicchieri 2026 event in New York, I was lucky enough to attend the masterclass where we had an opportunity to deep dive into the world of Cesari Amarone. And not just Amarone, but single vineyard Amarone Bosan.
Cesari Winery was formed in 1936 (so this year Cesari is celebrating 90 years). The first vintage of Amarone was produced in 1971, and in 1973, Cesari Amarone began exporting to the USA. And talking about important dates, 1997 marked the beginning of production of Cesari’s single-vineyard Amarone, Bosan.
Bosan vineyard is located in the heart of the Amarone Classico della Valpolicella production zone, at about 1,500 feet elevation (500 meters), on the hills facing south and southeast with volcanic/limestone soils. The grapes for Bosan Amarone are harvested about 2 weeks prior to the grapes for the other wines in two passes. Speaking about the grapes, Cesari Bosan Amarone is always made from 3 main grape varieties, used always in the same proportions. Bosan wines are made from 40% Corvina grapes, giving structure and complexity; 40% Corvinone grapes, bringing freshness and crunchiness; finishing it up 20% of Rondinella grapes, bringing balance and color. By the way, while the grape composition remained the same over the years, the drying time (appassimento) has changed from 4 months in the previous years to about 3 months (90 days) now.
Production of Bosan Amarone is a labor of love for sure, as it takes 10(!) years to produce Amarone Bosan, and another 3 years for the wines to reach “historical vintage” designation. After drying the grapes, vinification and fermentation are conducted in stainless steel. After that, the wine rests in stainless steel for 3 years, then goes into the barriques for 2 years, back to stainless steel for 3 years, finishing off with at least 2 years in the bottle. If the wine is designated as a historical vintage, it will take another 3 years in the bottle. If anything, Cesari Amarone Bosan production commands respect.
We had an opportunity to taste 6 Bosan Riserva wines, going all the way back to the 2000 vintage, thanks to the generosity of the Cesari family. To say that this was a special experience would be an understatement – the experience was truly one of a kind. Here are my thoughts on the 6 wines we tasted.
2016 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG (15.5% ABV)
Beautiful, a touch of gunflint, dark fruit, minerality, cherries, rocky undertones
Powerful, crisp, firm and crunchy, rocky undertones, well-integrated tannins.
8+, great food wine, but perfectly enjoyable by itself
2015 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG (15.5% ABV)
Legs are more expressive than in 2016
Dark cherries on the nose
Rounder on the palate than 2016, dark fruit, tannins a bit untamed, green notes on the finish. Needs more time
8-/8
2006 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC (15.5% ABV)
Beautiful nose, with dried fruit and a touch of dried fig.
Wow! Beautiful, balanced, perfectly integrated tannins, round, spectacular.
8+/9-
2003 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
A bit too much of the dry fruit, the nose suggested past prime. After some additional time in the glass, just fine.
Sublime, just needed the time to open. Still fresh tannins on the palate, round, well integrated, layered, with dry fruit undertones on the palate. Wow. delicious!
9-/9
2001 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
Intense nose, clean, open, elegant, hint of roasted meat, fresh red fruit, cocoa powder, a wow nose.
Wow. I can’t spit this wine! Wow, Round, elegant, layered, mind-boggling elegance, a touch of dried fruit. Impeccable balance.
9, a wow wine all around
2000 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
Intense tertiary aromas with the addition of roasted meat.
No tertiary aromas on the palate. Wow. Sweet cherries, perfect acidity, round, elegant, outstanding.
9-
Here we are – an Amarone worth seeking. Cesari Bosan Amarone will not be inexpensive, but it might be well worth it as a special treat.
So, have you finally come up with an answer to my question? Do you like Amarone? Hoping that you do, what is your favorite Amarone? Cheers!
As Expected and Full of Surprises
Today, I want to share two recent wine experiences. One, unfortunately, as expected. The second one is unexpectedly surprising.
About 10 days ago, I had the opportunity to open a wine from the 2002 vintage to celebrate my youngest daughter’s birthday. I don’t have a lot of 2002 lying around, so I had to decide which bottle to open.
I asked wine friends on Twitter (can’t bring myself to call it X, I still prefer Twitter) which one of the two 2002 bottles you see in the picture above I should open. A few people said “come on, open both and compare!” which I would gladly do if I had a good supply of both. I also got suggestions to open BV, and somehow, this was also my inclination, so BV it was.
Now, deep inside, I knew that I was probably making a mistake opening my only bottle. Based on my experience, California Cabernet Sauvignon wines need 40+ years to truly shine, but hey – wine is meant to be drunk, especially when you have a good reason… So yeah, the decision was made.
BV, which stands for Beaulieu Vineyard, needs no introduction to wine lovers. One of the oldest producers in Napa Valley, and one of the legendary ones, as the name André Tchelistcheff, “The Maestro” and literally the father of Californian winemaking, is closely associated with BV, where he was making wines for almost 50 years. Georges de Latour Reserve, the wine named in honor of the winery’s founder, is a flagship Cabernet Sauvignon made at the winery. So while I was opening this 2002 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Napa Valley (14.5% ABV), I knew that I’m making a mistake.
The mistake was very simple – too early. The wine of this caliber probably had another 25 years ahead of it before it would really reach its peak. Don’t get me wrong – the wine was classic and delicious, with Rutherford dust, gobs of black currant, mint and eucalyptus, powerful, voluptuous, big and fresh, with well-presented tannins. This was the wine in its prime, but not at a peak. As expected. And a bit sad as I know I can’t find out how well this wine could evolve. Sure, first-world problems.
Now, let’s talk about surprises. Over the weekend, we visited friends whom we hadn’t seen in a while. Over the years, they have accumulated a variety of bottles – nothing of the “collector” level, no, just simple everyday wines which were acquired to be enjoyed at a party and simply left unopened. Now, when we come over, knowing that I’m a wine geek, they always love to pull out some random bottle to try. This time, the random bottle was a 2002 Gallo Family’s Gallo of Sonoma Syrah Reserve Sonoma County (13.75% ABV).
If you would generally offer me a bottle of Gallo wine, I would almost take it as an offense. I would never buy a Gallo wine on my own. But in this situation, why not? I had a backup in the form of Turley, so I was definitely not afraid :).
By the way, before we talk about the wine, you can also have a laugh at my expense. This is the first time that the actual Gallo wine is discussed on this blog – I can even quote myself saying “Rest assured – Gallo is the last wine I want to ever discuss on this blog“. And yet here I am, talking about Gallo wine on this blog. Never say never, huh?
The cork crumbled and I had to push it in, so we were pouring the wine into the glasses using a little tea mesh. The first smell was not bad at all – mostly plums, no tertiary aromas. The first sip found a well-rounded wine, with plums, roasted meat notes, still present tannins and earthy undertones. I was absolutely not expecting to be so pleasantly surprised by the wine, but I guess California wines are just full of surprises. And let’s not forget that this wine was probably acquired for $5 if not less…
I always advocate that California wines can age, and yet I was surprised at how well both wines have aged.
If you have California wines in your cellar, and you are not afraid to wait – give them time, let them surprise you at some point.
What do you think about the ability of Californian wines to age? For how long do you think you can wait to let your wines truly shine? Cheers!
Restaurant Files: 888 Sushi & Robata in Las Vegas
When it comes to food, Las Vegas is one of the top places in the US. There is no shortage of great restaurants in Las Vegas, no matter what cuisine you are craving.
Considering that the city of Las Vegas is located in the middle of a desert, you wouldn’t think that sushi should be one of the culinary staples there, but it is Las Vegas after all, the city of no limits.
When visiting Las Vegas, which typically happens once a year for the work conference, I always try to include sushi in the dining repertoire. This year was no exception, and while researching online, I found this highly rated place, called 888 Sushi & Robata, which had very high ratings on Yelp, so it definitely got my interest. The only challenge was the fact that the restaurant doesn’t accept reservations and offers a waiting list instead.
I conveniently joined the waiting list on Yelp, and was told that even for the solo diner (none of my colleagues arrived yet), the wait time would be between 3 and 3.5 hours (we are talking about the middle of the day on Sunday). Okay, waiting is not a problem. I decided to walk to the restaurant as it was only about a mile away from the hotel, so I left about 40 minutes prior to the earliest time I could be seated according to the wait list information. Arrived at the restaurant, let them know that I was there, and as I was happy to sit in the bar, I was seated almost instantly (my waiting list was still not complete, but it worked fine).
The restaurant offers a number of menus at different price levels and with different content. As I didn’t want the menu with Wagyu beef (carpaccio, etc.), I settled for the Sushi and Robata menu.
I was not familiar with the term Robata, so based on the menu, I figured that Robata is basically a Japanese BBQ, with food served on little skewers. The waiter explained that the restaurant is all you can eat, but you need to order as you go; this is not a buffet, and you have only 90 minutes to dine. Note that the menu is really overwhelming, but my waiter was very helpful and we were able to figure out I think an excellent program.
I fully took advantage of dining just by myself. I took a bunch of pictures and took notes for almost all the food I was having, so now all I need to do is share my notes with you. Here you go:
I started with a few Robata items:
Squid on the skewer – tasty, but a little chewy
Beef on the skewer – very good, tasty.
Kurobuta sausage, made from the famous Japanese Kurobuta pigs – superb, incredible amount of flavor. I would love to eat like 10 those little sausages at once.
The next few items were served on the small plates:
Crispy Calamari – wow! Crunchy
Tuna Poke – wow. Flavor!
And then there were sushi, many different types of sushi. What was very interesting was that generous pieces of fish were served with tiny, very tiny rice balls – I really appreciate that we were truly able to enjoy fish in the sushi.
Salmon – a huge piece of fish and a tiny amount of rice
Salmon roll – very good
Yellowtail – perfect
Seared salmon – wow. Absolute wow. A little slice of fatty salmon just very lightly seared – what a pleasure!
Mackerel – great, really good. Love mackerel!
Yuzu yellowtail – not very spicy. This was one of the few small disappointments – if you promise spicy, you better deliver 🙂
Eel – melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Love eel, this was delicious.
I asked for a few more pieces to complete the meal.
Ikura – superb. Delicious caviar, excellent quality.
Uni – good, a touch of bitterness which you can often find in the uni. I’m personally looking for a uniformly sweet profile.
As I was looking for something else to complete the meal, I noticed in the Robata section a bacon-wrapped scallop, but it was not available. Instead, the waiter suggested that I should try a bacon-wrapped oyster mushroom. OMG.
Bacon-wrapped oyster mushroom – wow. Tastes similar to scallop. This is really something. A properly chewy, slightly sweet mushroom wrapped in a delicious, salty piece of bacon. Wow.
This was an amazing finish for an amazing meal. Well, almost finish, as I couldn’t resist a soft-serve green tea ice cream, which was delicious and refreshing.
Here you go, my friends – 888 Sushi & Robata. If you are in Las Vegas, I can’t recommend it highly enough. Next time I’m in Las Vegas, this restaurant will definitely be on the list.
888 Sushi & Robata
4480 Paradise Rd #900,
Las Vegas, Nevada 89169
In Memoriam: Michel Rolland
Last week, the world of wine lost an icon. Michel Rolland, often referred to as “flying winemaker”, passed away at the age of 78. Michel Rolland influenced winemaking all around the globe, from France to the US Napa Valley, Argentina, Spain, South Africa, and even Israel.
There is lots and lots written about Michel Rolland in the form of articles and books, and his winemaking practices are sometimes portrayed as controversial. However, I truly believe the wines he helped craft made many wine lovers happy.
I was lucky enough to have the pleasure of sitting across from Michel Rolland and asking him questions – unlike most of my interviews, this one was done face-to-face 10 years ago, during one of his visits to New York. In memory of Michel Rolland, I would like to share that interview again on this blog.
One on One With Cristina Mercuri, Master of Wine
As you might know, I love interviews.
That didn’t happen from the first day of blogging. It took me some time to realize the value of conversation. But once it “clicked”, interviews became one of my favorite subjects on this blog – “Stories of Passion and Pinot” series might be the best proof of that.
Today’s interview is a bit different than the most. The majority of my interviews are with winemakers. However, today I would like to offer to your attention my conversation (virtual, as it often goes, even though this is one of the cases where I would much prefer a face-to-face format) with Cristina Mercuri, Master of Wine.
Cristina Mercuri is the first woman Master of Wine (MW) in Italy, and the fourth Italian MW overall. To put things in perspective, only 521 people have become Master of Wine since 1953, according to the Institute of Master of Wine as of February 2026. This is definitely an achievement to celebrate, so I was very excited when I got an opportunity to talk to Cristina. She is also the founder of Cristina Mercuri Wine Club – we will touch on that in our conversation below.
Cristina Mercuri
Here is what transpired in our conversation:
[TaV]: This might be a “duh” question, as you grew up in Italy, and yet – as a wine lover, not as a wine professional, how did you get into the world of wine? Family traditions? Was there a pivotal wine in your life?
[CM]: Wine was always present in my life in the way it often is in Italy: around the table, as part of everyday culture rather than something intellectualized. It belonged to meals, to conversations, to conviviality.
My real entry into the wine world happened much later. I was working as a lawyer and, despite having built a solid career, I felt increasingly bored and disconnected from what I was doing. I needed a radical change, something intellectually stimulating and culturally rich. Wine offered exactly that.
I began studying through the WSET programmes while still working in law, initially out of curiosity. Very quickly that curiosity turned into a serious commitment. By the end of 2015 I decided to leave the legal profession entirely and dedicate myself to wine. What started as a personal exploration became a new professional path.
[TaV]: What made you switch from a successful career in law to the unpredictable world of wine?
[CM]: Law gave me a very strong analytical framework, discipline and the ability to structure complex reasoning. But at a certain point I felt the need to work in a field where cultures creativity and human connection were more present.
Wine offered exactly that. It is an industry where agriculture, craftsmanship, economics and storytelling coexist. Each bottle represents a product, but also a narrative about land, people and time. I realized that the skills I had developed in law — critical thinking, precision, strategic analysis — could be applied in a different way to the wine world.
Leaving law was a significant decision, but it never felt like abandoning something. It felt like redirecting the same intellectual energy toward a field that resonates deeply with identity, culture and global exchange.
[TaV]: You recently became the first woman Master of Wine in Italy (and only the 4th in Italy overall) – how does it feel? What was the hardest part of the MW journey? What was your favorite part of studying?
[CM]: Becoming the first Italian woman Master of Wine is both a personal achievement and a symbolic milestone. In a different world it would be big news that another professional became an MW. In today’s reality, it also represents a small step toward greater diversity in a sector where leadership has long been male-dominated.
The hardest part of the journey is consistency. The MW programme is not only intellectually demanding, it requires years of sustained discipline while continuing to work professionally. Preparing for the Stage 2 examination felt almost like an Olympic training period: blind tasting every day, theory study, mock exams, mental preparation.
My favorite part was the intellectual depth of the programme. It forces you to think about wine from every possible perspective: viticulture, economics, geopolitics, consumer behaviour, communication. It teaches you that wine is not only about what is in the glass, but about the entire system around it.
[TaV]: If at all possible in this format, can you share with us the gist of your master thesis, “Wine, Women and Fascism: A Visual Analysis of the Representation of Women in Propaganda in Enotria (1922–1942)”?
[CM]: My research paper examined how women were represented in the Italian wine magazine Enotria during the Fascist period. I analyzed the covers published between the 1920s and early 1940s using visual semiotics and historical analysis.
What emerged was a very clear pattern: women were rarely portrayed as producers, professionals or decision-makers within the wine world. Instead, they appeared mainly as decorative figures, symbols of beauty, domesticity or national mythology. The visual language reflected broader political and cultural narratives of the time, where gender roles were tightly controlled and instrumentalized.
The research was interesting because it connects visual culture, political ideology and wine communication. It also helps explain why certain stereotypes persisted for decades in the way wine — and women in wine — have been represented.
[TaV]: I heard many times that women are better tasters than men. Do you share the same opinion?
[CM]: I don’t think wine tasting is determined by gender. Sensory ability can vary enormously between individuals, but excellence in tasting comes primarily from training, discipline and experience.
The best tasters I know share certain qualities: concentration, memory, analytical thinking and intellectual humility. Blind tasting especially is a skill that develops through repetition and structured practice.
Reducing tasting ability to gender risks oversimplifying something that is actually much more complex. Wine evaluation is a professional competence that can be developed by anyone willing to dedicate the time and rigor required.
[TaV]: There is a lot of talk everywhere that the world of wine at large is in trouble, as younger people either don’t drink wine at all, or have very specific requirements (low alcohol seems to be one of the most important ones, no oak, etc.). What do you think about young adults and wine? Does the wine industry at large need to do something to address it, or is it just a part of the cycle?
[CM]: I think the conversation around younger consumers often starts from the wrong assumption. It is not that young people reject wine; it is that they expect wine to speak a language that resonates with them.
For decades the industry communicated mainly through tradition, hierarchy and technical jargon. Younger consumers tend to look instead for transparency, authenticity and clarity. They want to understand what is in the glass, who made it, how it was produced and why it matters.
This requires a shift in communication more than a reinvention of wine itself. When wine is presented with honesty, clarity and relevance, younger audiences respond very positively. The future of wine depends largely on our ability to listen to those audiences and adapt the narrative accordingly.
[TaV]: Do you have a favorite Italian wine and/or producer?
[CM]: Italy is incredibly diverse, so choosing one wine is almost impossible. But if I had to mention a style that fascinates me deeply, I would say Etna Bianco. The combination of volcanic soils, altitude and Mediterranean light produces wines with remarkable tension, precision and aging potential.
Producers such as Maugeri or Palmento Costanzo are doing extraordinary work in expressing the subtle differences between contrade and elevations. Etna is a perfect example of how a historic territory can also represent the future of Italian wine.
[TaV]: Same question, taking the view of the world – can you share some names of your favorite wines and/or producers from around the world?
[CM]: I have always been deeply fascinated by Burgundy, particularly producers like Olivier Leflaive or Alain Chavy, who express incredible precision and terroir transparency in Chardonnay.
In Champagne, houses like Krug, Philipponnat or Yann Alexandre represent a philosophy of blending and long maturation that creates wines of extraordinary depth and longevity.
I also admire producers who work with clarity and restraint in different parts of the world — those who allow the vineyard to speak rather than imposing heavy stylistic signatures, like Creation in South Africa.
[TaV]: Do you have a wine cellar? If you do, what would we find there?
[CM]: Yes, I do have a cellar, although I tend to think of it as a working cellar rather than a collector’s one. You would find a mix of Italian classics — Barolo, Brunello, Etna — alongside Champagne and Burgundy.
There are also many bottles linked to personal moments: wines opened to celebrate milestones, wines shared with friends, wines connected to travel or professional encounters. For me a cellar is not only about aging potential; it is also a memory archive.
[TaV]: Can you tell us more about your project, Mercuri Wine Club? What are your aspirations? What are you trying to achieve? How do you see this project evolving over the next 10 years?
[CM]: Mercuri Wine Club was born from a desire to combine education, communication and strategic consultancy within the wine sector.
The project has two main dimensions. One focuses on education, offering structured training programmes that help professionals and enthusiasts understand wine with clarity and depth. The second focuses on strategic consultancy, helping wineries and wine institutions position themselves more effectively in international markets.
Over the next ten years I see the project evolving into a broader platform that connects education, market intelligence and communication. The wine industry needs more bridges between production, markets and consumers, and that is precisely the space where Mercuri Wine Club operates.
[TaV]: Last question: have you had a chance to watch Drops of God series on Apple TV? If you have, what do you think of it? If not, I can’t recommend it highly enough 🙂 [CM]: Yes, I have watched it, and I found it fascinating from a cultural perspective. The series captures something very real about wine: the emotional dimension, the role of memory, and the intensity of sensory perception. In that sense it does a good job of showing that tasting is not just technical evaluation, but also interpretation and personal experience.
At the same time, what slightly disappointed me is the risk of portraying wine tasting as something almost supernatural or accessible only to a few exceptional individuals. In reality, tasting wine is a skill that anyone can develop with curiosity, attention and practice. Blind tasting is not about superpowers, and it certainly shouldn’t be intimidating.
If anything, wine should invite people in, not push them away. The real beauty of tasting is that it sharpens perception and encourages dialogue. Anyone can sit at a table, taste a wine blind, and enjoy the process of discovering it. That sense of curiosity and shared exploration is what truly makes wine special.
Here you are, my friends. I hope you enjoyed reading our conversation, and until the next time – cheers!
OTBN 2026 – What a night!
Open That Bottle Night (OTBN for short) is one of my favorite wine holidays of the year – possibly simply the favorite.
The event, always taking place on the last Saturday in February, was created by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, writers of the Wall Street Journal wine column, 27 years ago. The purpose of the event or a holiday, if you will, is simple. Every wine lover has a special bottle waiting for a special moment. Let’s declare that special moment has arrived, and let’s open that special bottle to enjoy it now – nobody knows what’s ahead in life, so we should enjoy things while we can.
As I said, this is possibly my favorite wine holiday, I always make an effort to participate, and a few times even wrote about them (here are posts from 2016, 2019, 2020, 2023, and 2025). Whether I’m celebrating with friends or just with my wife, I always make an effort to make that day wine-special – I believe I have never been disappointed so far, judging by “what a night!” being a favorite descriptor.
OTBN 2026 was no exception. Typically, my OTBN experience starts with self-inflicted drama – what to open???? I have more than a few bottles worthy of a “special” designation, and it is always hard (very hard!) to decide which one or two should be called special in a given year. In 2026, somehow I managed to solve this conundrum somewhat easily – the decision just materialized on its own as I was mindlessly moving wine cabinet shelves in and out.
Lopez de Heredia needs no introduction to wine lovers. Way, way back, Lopez de Heredia Blanco was my first foray into white Rioja wines, and I have been a devoted follower ever since. Fiction by Field Recordings was the first wine that led to the discovery of the Field Recordings wines 17+ years ago, and it has been a perennial staple ever since. I can’t say what led to the decision on the 33-year-old white Rioja and 13-year-old California red blend, but this became one of the most memorable wine experiences ever.
Let’s talk about 1993 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Rioja (12.5% ABV). I have to start by saying that I’m not a fan of oxidative white wines. When I mentioned on Twitter that I plan to open this bottle for the OTBN, some comments expressed excitement about oxidative and nutty notes, which I was supposed to find, similar to what you would find in a glass of Jerez. And so I was expecting to find that, and was wondering if I would be able to like that wine. And then there were literally none! Nothing oxidative on the nose, mostly minerality and whitestone fruit. And then a beautiful, complex, powerful structure on the palate, somewhat along the lines of a good Roussanne, still with perfect acidity and freshness. Oxidative notes were lurking in the background, showing up and instantly dissipating a few times, but those were only tiny glimpses, not taking anything away from the wine. An absolutely delightful experience, a 33-year-old white Rioja possibly at its peak (but I wouldn’t dare to insist).
And then there was 2013 Fiction by Field Recordings Paso Robles (13.5% ABV, 31% Zinfandel, 26% Tempranillo, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 8% Touriga Nacional). This was my only bottle with an original label, which I really loved and much prefer to the current ones. There is nothing wrong with the current label, only that the original one, with a flock of birds, was conveying the message of bottled poetry a lot better – or rather music, as I wrote in my first post about this wine, Music, Recorded in the Vineyard.
I also loved the back label. As this might be the last time I look at such a label (the current ones don’t carry any of the text), I would allow myself to cite the text written on that back label:
“It’s 6 A.M. and if I don’t find them soon, they’ll be gone. The back of my pickup stocked with trash bags, I head out. If I was looking at the road, I would notice the truck’s path change from frontage road, to side road, to no road. I would notice addresses begin to dwindle and buildings become fields. But I’m not looking at the road. I’m looking at the sky, searching for the living static that gathers above the grapes when they are perfectly ripe. When the black cloud finally appears, I weave through the vineyard, throw her in park, stuff my pockets with plastic and dance my way through a mess of moving wings and beaks. Hours later, bugs filled with ripe fruit, bulge from the bed of my pickup and the birds have disappeared. Tomorrow, I will search again.”
Now, let’s talk about the wine. Screwtop. 13 years old California Paso Robles blend. Stored at somewhat consistent conditions, away from direct sunlight and vibration, but not in the cellar or a wine cooler. Priced at not more than $20 originally (directly from the winery). And yet, one of the very best wines I have ever experienced. A truly memorable one.
I poured the wine in the glass, smelled it, and couldn’t put the glass down. The time slowed down. Sounds practically disappeared. The aroma was magical. And the wine in my mouth was too.
Dreams, smiles, baby laughter, endless meadows, fresh mountain forest air. I know, it sounds like a brain dump, but I don’t want even to try to describe this wine in technical terms – raspberries or blueberries are not important here, what’s important is how the wine makes you feel. Refined, elegant, layered palate, flavors are transitioning and interplaying in total harmony, each sip asking for the next. Am I exaggerating? I don’t know, and it is up to you to believe me or not. But the wine was absolutely stunning and memorable. That I’m completely sure about.
Here you are, my friends. An OTBN experience that will not be easy to beat.
Two amazing wines, an amazing experience, great memories.
I don’t know if I will be able to do better next year, but this is the beauty of wine – the mystery in the bottle.
Until the next time – cheers!
FeedSpot Top Wine Blogs 2026
The best pleasures in life are unexpected ones, right?
You grab a bottle of wine. You know nothing about it. Open, swirl, sniff, sip. Whoa. OMG.
Unexpected. Delightful. Pleasant.
Wine might be the best carrier of unexpected pleasure. Of course, you can always win a lottery – but that is reserved for the selected few, and in many cases, the pain comes right after the pleasure. And then there are unexpected emails. Not, not the ones when you are informed that your unknown uncle passed away in the other hemisphere, and your millions are in the mail as long as you pay the modest fee of $5k. No, I’m not talking about those.
A few days ago, I got an email from FeedSpot informing me that my blog made the 100 Best Wine Blogs to Follow in 2026. Unexpected. And pleasant.
Last year, I also made the Top 100 list of 2025, so I’m definitely happy to receive the recognition again. Scrolling through the list, I find many familiar names, so kudos to all who are still happy to share their passion for wine.
Now I’m off to write about the delicious Amarone I recently had the pleasure of experiencing…
Daily Glass: The Mood, The Vintage, Or Something Else?
Carlisle is one of my favorite California wine producers (who is, unfortunately, about to close the operation, but this is not the subject of this post). Carlisle is very well known for their Zinfandel wines, but their Rhone-style wines (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and others) are also excellent. I love their wines and have been on the mailing list for more than 10 years. I’m rarely disappointed by Carlisle wines, and yet I had a few “interesting” experiences.
Two years ago, in January of 2024, I opened a bottle of 2016 Carlisle Two Acres wine, and it turned out to be one of such “interesting” experiences. I didn’t like the wine, not when it was just opened, nor over the next few days it remained open. The wine was lacking balance, and since that time, I had a bit of trepidation whlie considering opening Two Acres again.
Today, I decided to give it another chance. This time, it was a 2017 Carlisle Two Acres Russian River Valley (14.9% ABV). Different vintage, a year difference in ageing (8 years versus 9 years). And the wine couldn’t be more different. Almost black color, dusty cherries on the nose, beautiful legs (couldn’t help but notice). Dusty cherries and herbs on the palate, perfect firm structure, full body, power and elegance, and perfect balance. This was one delicious wine. (Drinkability: 8+/9-)
There is a reason for the wine’s name Two Acres. The grapes for this wine come from the 2-acre vineyard parcel, which was originally planted in 1910. Carlisle took over the parcel in 1996, when the vineyard was practically dying, and restored the vineyard to full health in 2003. The original vineyard was planted with the Mourvèdre grapes, with the addition of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Peloursin, and Alicante Bouschet. According to the Carlisle website, there are also a few Zinfandel vines in addition to nine whites of a variety called Helena (a white cross of Zinfandel and Mondeuse noir). Also, Two Acres wine is produced as Field Blend, which means that all the different grape varieties are harvested and processed together, without separating by varieties.
And now is the question – how come? How come I really didn’t like 2016 and loved 2017? Was there something with my mood? The difference between the vintages? On odd bottle? Of course, we will never know, but the analysis, even if futile, is still a part of the geeky wine fun.
I checked the Wine Spectator vintage chart for Rhone varieties in California, and according to the chart, 2016 was supposed to be far superior:
2016 – “A textbook vintage with nearly ideal growing conditions throughout the year”
2017 – “Dramatic weather conditions, from floods to heat waves to wildfires, led to a variable, challenging vintage”
And yet I liked 2017 a lot more. Of course, my 2016 could’ve been just an odd bottle. Or maybe I had a root day. Or just simply a bad day.
We will never know, because you can’t enter the same river twice. But if anything, I think my trepidation towards Carlisle Two Acres is now cured. And I’m ready to taste another bottle.
Until the next time – cheers!
P.S. Just for fun, a Day 2 update:
The wine evolved, now adding a touch of nutmeg, balsamic, and iodine, smothered on top of delicious black cherries with perfect acidity to support the new expression and keep the wine lean and firm, with an unnoticeable ABV. As I said before, a treat.
Daily Glass: Pure Pleasure
Of course, it is Wine Wednesday – but this was just a happenstance. Not anything I planned.
A traditional dilemma – what to open?
Checked one wine fridge – no, nothing spoke to me. Next thought – maybe Field Recordings?
Again, without much thought – how about that bottle? I passed it a few times before. What vintage is that? Oh, 2019, that might be good. Ha! It is also a Syrah! Nice, my wife loves Syrah, might be her favorite red grape. Prefect, we have a bottle to open.
Talk about wines made in the vineyard. I discovered Field Recordings wines almost 15 years ago. At that time, the wines were more of a side project for Andrew Jones, a consulting grape grower. By nature of his profession, Andrew had relationships with many grape growers. More importantly, he knew the best plots in their vineyards, and thus he knew where to find the best grapes when he needed them. And little by little, Field Recordings became a powerhouse and a darling of Paso Robles, with the wines of unbound creativity.
My first Field Recordings wine was the wine called Fiction – here is my post about that experience: Music, Recorded in the Vineyard. This was love at first sight. Fiction by Field Recordings was my wine of the year in 2011. And Field Recordings is the only wine club I ever joined, and I’m still a member there. Over the years, there were literally a handful of Field Recordings wines I didn’t enjoy, because for the most part, my favorite descriptor for the Field Recordings wines is probably “mind-blowing” or maybe “mind-boggling”. As was the case today.
I opened the 2019 Field Recordings Zabala Zabala Vineyard Arroyo Seco (12.9 ABV, 100% Syrah) and poured it in the glass right away. The first whiff had a bit of the funk (love funk!) and a bramble. But on the palate… Oh my, the palate was a pure symphony. Well, a caveat – you have to love black pepper to call that experience a symphony. The palate was full of freshly ground, gorgeous, salivating black pepper. I experienced such purity only once before, while tasting the 2011 Michel Chapoutier Tournon Mathilda Shiraz from Australia. I was blown away by the purity of the pepper expression in that wine – and interestingly enough, after that first experience, I had a random success with the same vintage over a few years – but this is not the subject of this post.
This Zabala Syrah was literally mind-boggling (see, told ya, I just can’t avoid it). Dark bramble fruit, a little bit of funk, and lots and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Delicious, perfectly balanced, perfectly harmonious. A pure pleasure in the glass.
Maybe I just got lucky. I don’t have another bottle from the same vintage, so I will not be able to taste it in a year or a few years and report back. But we should enjoy the moment, and this moment in wine was immensely enjoyable. Wine should give you pleasure, and this was a pure pleasure.
So, what was your last mind-blowing wine experience?
Simple Recipe: Chicken Liver Pate
It’s been a while since I published any recipes on this blog. It doesn’t mean, however, that I don’t have any recipes to share. So let’s correct it.
As the title says, I like simple recipes. The meaning of “simple” is relative. For example, I’m sure that the absolute majority of people consider an omelette simple – both in recipe and in the making. And yet making an omelette can be a test for the chef, which is easy to fail. And take a look at the Japanese omelettes, those that are oozing when sliced on top of other food. Good luck making those in your home kitchen. Simple? Maybe not so much.
In my book, simple means primarily the way of cooking. For example, chicken legs or braised beef in the slow cooker are simple – put together all ingredients at once, turn it on, close the lid, walk away, come back in 6 to 8 hours for a delicious meal. That is what I call simple. Making delicious onion soup, on the other hand, is very far from simple. Despite a very few ingredients, the process is very involved – look away, and you will have to start all over. I’m sure you got my point.
Okay, now to the chicken liver pate. I love chicken liver pate. When it is well-made and tasty, just spread it on the toast, maybe add some onion preserve or a cornichon, take a bite, and your taste buds start singing. To me, it is one of the simple pleasures.
I started making chicken liver pate a while back, as it is very difficult to find a tasty version in the store. For the longest time, my go-to recipe was the one from Emeril Lagasse from the Food Network, which I followed very closely. Making chicken liver pate using this recipe is an involved step-by-step process, requiring about an hour or a bit more of active labor.
And then there is Instagram. It really became a source of cooking inspiration for me, with lots and lots of interesting recipes (not all recipes are created equal; you have to be ready to fail). A few days ago, I saw someone making a chicken liver pate in a very simple way, combining all ingredients in the tray and baking all at once in the oven, then processing it through the blender, and voila – enjoying the chicken liver pate. So I decided to try more or less the same, just incorporating a couple of elements from Emeril’s recipe into the process.
Two elements that I decided to add were cognac and green peppercorns. While making the chicken liver pate throughout the years, I tried different options, and found both irreplaceable, at least for my taste. So here is my new favorite recipe for the chicken liver pate.
Ingredients:
- 1 pound of fresh chicken livers
- 1 stick of butter
- 1 large red onion, sliced into 8 pieces
- 2 carrots, peeled and roughly sliced into big chunks
- 1 Granny Smith apple, cored and sliced into quarters (don’t peel it)
- 3-4 garlic cloves
- 1/4 of a cup Cognac or Brandy
- 1 teaspoon green peppercorns
- 3-4 bay leaves
- 3-4 allspice
- Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 F
2. In a small roasting pan (I used a 9×9 glass pan), combine chicken livers, slices of carrots, onion chunks, apple chunks, garlic, 1/3 of the stick of butter sliced into chunks and placed evenly, bay leaves, and allspice. Add salt and pepper.
3. Put into the oven and bake uncovered for 45 minutes.
4. Take the pan out of the oven, add green peppercorns, and pour in the cognac. Mix the contents of the pan, and put it back into the oven for 10-15 minutes.
5. Take the pan out of the oven. Let it cool for 5 minutes or so. Remove bay leaves and allspice.
6. Transfer the content of the pan into a blender and add the rest of the butter (2/3 of a stick) to the blender in small chunks.
7. Blend until smooth, 2-3 minutes, scraping the walls of the can as needed.
8. Transfer into a glass container, let it cool off, and place it in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours (preferably overnight).
That’s all! Next, enjoy it with the toast or whatever way you like.
Notes:
1. Emeril’s recipe calls for soaking chicken livers in the milk for 2 hours in the fridge to remove bitterness. I have done it both ways, soaking and not, and I don’t see a difference. I didn’t soak it this time, and it was just delicious.
2. You can adjust the amount of green peppercorns to your liking. More peppercorns means spicier pate. But it is a mild spice.
3. Don’t substitute green peppercorns with black. The taste will be too aggressive. Green peppercorns are also softer, so if you use black peppercorns, the texture will be affected. If you can’t find green peppercorns in the store, you can buy them on Amazon.
4. Don’t substitute cognac with other types of alcohol (yes, you can use Armagnac or other brandy). Cognac brings both sweetness and a flavor profile that goes well with the other ingredients. I tried once using a bourbon, and the taste was ruined.
That’s all I have for you for now. But more of the simple recipes are coming.
Bon appetit!
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