Oenophile’s Joy: Say Hello To Asti Rosé!
Do you consider yourself an oenophile?
I hope you are. If you are not, I hope it is “not yet”.
Next question: Do you like Asti wines?
Don’t tell me that you don’t. There are only two acceptable answers here: 1. I never tried them. 2. Of course, I love them. If you consider yourself an oenophile, you have tried Asti sparkling wines, and you want to tell me that you don’t like them, we probably can’t be friends.
Asti DOCG is the region in Northern Italy where sweet wines have been produced since the 17th century. In the 19th century, these sweet wines also developed bubbles and became a foundation for the modern Moscato d’Asti wines. Asti wines are typically low alcohol (around 7%), lightly fizzed, and effervescent. Asti wines can be a dessert in themselves, or they can perfectly accompany and elevate practically any dessert known to man. Most importantly, they give wine lovers lots of pleasure. To be entirely correct, Asti also makes dry wines, but let me focus for now on the sweet side of things.
Until now, Asti DOCG was producing only white wines. But now that joy in the bottle has a new color – pink! After becoming an official Asti Rosé DOCG in March of 2026, Consorzio dell’Asti DOCG officially introduced Asti Rosé wines this week in the US at the Vinitaly event in New York!
Considering the occasion, I had an opportunity to talk (albeit virtually) to Giacomo Pondini, the Director of the Consorzio, and ask him a few questions to help my readers understand what this new Asti Rosé DOCG is all about. Here is what transpired in our conversation:
[TaV]: Why Asti Rosé? What was the inspiration behind creating the category of Asti? Was this driven by the desire of the producers or did consumers express an interest, or both?
[GP]: It was really a combination of both producer initiative and growing consumer interest. Wineries in the region had already been seeing encouraging results with sparkling rosé wines made from Moscato, particularly in North America, where consumers were showing interest in fresh, aromatic, and approachable sparkling wines. This demonstrated that there was an opportunity to explore a new expression of the region’s winemaking tradition.
At the same time, producers recognized the potential to bring this style under the Asti DOCG designation, giving it a stronger identity and a clear connection to the territory. The key was the historical presence of Brachetto within the Asti production area, alongside Moscato Bianco. Bringing together these two natives Piedmontese aromatic grape varieties allowed us to create something distinctive, combining two winemaking traditions and two different aromatic profiles.
Asti Rosé therefore represents both a response to evolving consumer preferences and a natural evolution of the denomination: an opportunity to innovate while remaining firmly rooted in our region’s heritage and winemaking expertise.
[TaV]: Was Prosecco Rosé, created in 2020, also an inspiration of sorts?
[GP]: Not specifically. The inspiration behind Asti Rosé was more closely linked to the growing international appreciation for rosé wines in general, both still and sparkling. We saw an opportunity to respond to this trend, but in a way that was entirely consistent with the identity of Asti DOCG. Rather than following another denomination, our aim was to create something with its own personality, drawing on the aromatic character of Moscato Bianco and Brachetto, two grape varieties with deep roots in Piedmont.
[TaV]: So what is Asti Rosé in technical terms? Are there any specific percentages of grapes to be used, specific yields, other rules you can share?
[GP]: The production rules for Asti Rosé follow the yield requirements established in the respective production codes for Asti DOCG and Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG. In terms of grape composition, Asti Rosé is made from a blend of 70% to 90% Moscato Bianco grapes intended for the production of Asti DOCG and 10% to 30% Brachetto grapes, both grown within the designated production area.
Asti Rosé can be produced by blending the two grape varieties or by combining their musts before fermentation. The latter approach is generally more common, as Moscato Bianco and Brachetto have different ripening periods. Working with the musts allows producers to manage these differences while bringing the two varieties together to achieve the desired balance and style.
Another interesting aspect is the range of styles permitted, from sweet to Extra Brut, allowing producers to interpret Asti Rosé in different ways and respond to the preferences of individual markets.
[TaV]: What reaction do you expect from the consumers, both in Italy and around the world?
[GP]: We have already received encouraging responses to Asti Rosé, particularly in Great Britain and Eastern European markets, as well as in Italy. These early reactions are encouraging and suggest that there is interest in this new expression across different markets.
Looking ahead, we hope Asti Rosé will appeal both to consumers who already appreciate rosé wines and to those who are looking to discover something new. Our goal is to introduce it to an increasingly broad international audience and allow consumers to discover its versatility and distinctive identity.
[TaV]: What are your expectations in terms of export of Asti Rosé? Where do you think the biggest export markets will be?
[GP]: We expect exports to account for approximately 80% to 90% of total production, reflecting our confidence in its potential to reach consumers in international markets. While Italy will remain an important market, we see significant opportunities for growth abroad, building on the existing international recognition of the Asti DOCG denomination.
Once production is fully operational, we believe Asti Rosé could reach a total volume of around 5 million bottles. This would represent an important opportunity to further expand the denomination’s presence internationally, offering consumers a new expression of Asti DOCG while building on the reputation and heritage of the region. As for the biggest markets, I think we could look at the UK, Asia, and the United States!
[TaV]: Asti wines are very versatile when it comes to food. What food pairings would you suggest for the Asti Rosé?
[GP]: Asti Rosé is a versatile wine, so it’s difficult to choose just one food pairing. It really depends on the occasion and what you feel like eating. Today, I’d be in the mood for something Thai, such as Pad Kra Pao, a flavorful stir-fried dish with Thai basil and a savory, spicy profile.
I think Asti Rosé could be an interesting match for this type of cuisine, as its aromatic character and freshness can complement the dish’s bold flavors and spices.
For an aperitif, I would suggest smoked salmon crostini with crème fraîche, Gruyère and thyme gougères, or even hummus tartlets with a touch of lemon and fresh herbs. These are all excellent pairings for the drier styles of Asti, particularly Asti Rosé Brut.
Now, the best part of the wine conversation is … yes, of course, a glass of wine! I had an opportunity to try Asti Rosé from one of the producers, and it was delicious!
NV Tosti Asti Rosé DOCG (7% ABV) had a perfect amount of fizz, a very generous fine mousse. A hint of strawberries on the nose, and a berry assembly on the palate – light, playful, perfectly balanced, refreshing, and delicious. The wine was delicious by itself, and it perfectly complemented home-made salmon and hamachi sashimi, exactly as one would expect. As you can tell from the picture, I even procured my favorite wine glass for Rosé from the Frescobaldi Alie Rosé tasting (please, please, please, don’t ask me where you can get it, I have no clue).
There you are, my wine-loving friends – one more type of wine to look out for. It is simple, it is uplifting, and it is guaranteed to please, just give it a chance.
Please welcome Asti Rosé!
Of Wine and Image
Let me warn you upfront – I’m not sure what this post will be about. Will probably end up with a loose collection of thoughts, most likely a bunch of random incoherent nonsense. A lame attempt at conscious analysis of the subconscious. So if you got something better to do (I’m sure you have), you can just stop reading it already. If you decide to stay, don’t tell me I didn’t warn you.
Wine is subjective. Hell, wine might be the most subjective product out there. And probably the most discretionary one too. If needed, you can easily live without wine. If you will not have water to drink, you will eventually die. If you will not have food, you will eventually die. If you will not have wine, nothing will happen to you – as long as you have water and food, you will be totally fine without wine. You might be emotionally damaged :), but hey, you will be physically fine.
Love of wine is acquired. We are not born with the love of wine. Sugar – yeah, I guess sweet is one of the very first tastes we recognize and acquire, coming with mother’s milk. Growing up, at some point, wine might become a subject of interest, but there is no rule of life that clearly states “you must love wine”. And I would argue that the love of wine is something we build as an image of in our heads first. As kids, we might read about wine in the books, we might see our parents enjoy it, we might see our parent’s friends enjoy it, and that image of “wine is a good thing” is getting slowly ingrained in our minds, possibly even making into the subconscious level.
We start with wine in a very general way – wine at large is something interesting. Here it is wine as a whole, a concept of a liquid in the bottle, without any regard to the regions, grapes, or producers. Our image here is very simple – a bottle, or a liquid poured from a bottle into a glass. From here on, it is entirely up to us how many details we want to add to this image and how obsessed we are willing to become.
Assuming we are interested in the subject, we begin our knowledge quest. First we learn about countries – “ahh, I had an amazing Italian wine yesterday”, “aha, this wine is from New Zealand? Cool”. Next, we start learning about grapes “Waiter, do you have any Chardonnay here?”, and deepen our knowledge of places, advancing from the countries to the regions “Bordeaux, I only drink wines from Bordeaux”. Continuing our learning, we are diving into producers, vineyards, critics’ scores, and social status values. Now the wine’s image is very rich, and it is easy to lose our way, as the image of wine might easily trumpet the wine itself.
“Wine should give you pleasure”. These are defining words of my wine teacher, Kevin Zraly, that he constantly repeated in the Windows on the World wine school classes. I also love to repeat these words whenever appropriate when talking about wine. By the way, you can laugh if you want, but now, while working on this post, I suddenly realized that “pleasure” here can have double meaning. It can be an actual hedonistic pleasure of drinking the wine in your glass, or it can be a pleasure of ownership, acquiring a rare bottle with the purpose of “collecting”, most probably reselling later for a profit. Nothing wrong with that, but this is not the direction I want to explore right now. So the wine you drink should give you pleasure – please hold that thought, we are going to come back to it in a moment.
We have established that the image of wine is rather complex. Interestingly enough, it doesn’t mean that the wine itself, the liquid in your glass, is complex. When I ask people if they like the wine they are drinking, and they tell me that they don’t know enough about wine to answer that question, I always tell them the same thing – you DO NOT need to know anything about wine to enjoy it. Wine is binary – you either like it or you don’t. And this statement, “wine is binary”, holds true whether you only drink wine twice a year or if you are a master sommelier. The only way to truly assess the wine is to taste blind, ideally when you know nothing about it. Why? Because that image in our head is not innocent. It affects the way we perceive the wine.
Once we learn that the wine in our glass costs $100 per bottle, produced by a famous producer, was impossible to acquire, or that only 1,000 bottles were produced, the image in our head becomes a key factor. Our mind is instantly makes an effort to find the way to enjoy the wine. Not “objectively”, but because the wine with such an image must be good by definition. When Larry Turley was saying that California Cabernet Sauvignon lovers “drink the label”, this is basically what it has subsided to. At this point, we might forget what we have established – “wine is binary”, and “wine should give you pleasure”.
As warned at the beginning of this post, the subject is complicated. Image is very important in the wine world. In order to form an image, we need to learn about the wine – read about it, talk to someone. We learn through the stories. The image is formed through the stories. And what is even more important, wine is sold through the stories. The wine stories are written in the articles, on producer websites, on the bottles’ back labels. I’ve heard many times that millennials and Gen Z are buying the wines with the stories. Stories are important, they build an image, they build an image of the producer, an image of the wine. Many people participate in creation of the stories and an image – winemakers themselves, wine writers, wine critics, sommeliers, and many others. We are good at creating a great image (or a bad image – a glass of Merlot, anyone?). Only now we might be overlooking a problem – the image might be better than the wine.
Wine is binary.
Wine should give you pleasure.
Would you want a second glass?
Time to tell the truth, right?
While I often think about this exact subject, what provoked this post was a wine tasting I attended last week, all well-known producers. While waiting for the tasting to start, I was talking to fellow wine lovers, and these were the things we talked about – the stories and wines, and how they can mismatch.
There were 9 well-known, well-established, well-regarded producers in the tasting, presenting a total of 32 wines. Out of these 9 producers, I truly enjoyed the wines from two. Then there were literally two more wines from two producers, and there were maybe 7 that were “meh, I can drink it”. The rest of them, simply put, didn’t give me any pleasure. Two of the Allegrini Amarone wines were all about oak, with the winemaker boasting about keeping the wine for 45 months in new French oak (I couldn’t hold myself; I asked, “Why???”). Ratti Barolos were made in the traditional way, in large Slavonian oak casks, and they were simply locking my palate with fresh tannins, to the point of losing any senses. Yes, if I decanted those wines for 3, 4, maybe 5 hours, they would probably show better. But this is something you should be willing and prepared to do (meaning – you can’t just open the bottle at the time when your dinner guests have already arrived). Louis M Martini from California: the wines that used to be beautiful and affordable when Louis Martini himself was around have proven again that they have become nothing but soulless, commercial wines, presenting 3 expensive wines none of which were enjoyable.
Look, by no means am I saying these were bad wines. I would use such a term, “bad wine”, only if the wine is spoiled. If the wine is corked, oxidized, has bacterial spoilage – yes, that would be a bad wine, the wine nobody is supposed to drink. The wines such as the ones I mentioned above, I categorize differently: these are not my wines. These wines are not for me. These wines don’t give me pleasure. That’s it. This is as basic as it gets. Remember, wine is binary.
Nothing here is black and white. For example, Allegrini presented 3 wines. Two of the Amarone had way too much oak for my taste, including the 2016 Fieramonte single vineyard, commanding about $250 in retail. But their simple, introductory-level 2023 Allegrini “Palazzo della Torre” Veneto IGT was delicious, fruity, open, layered, and perfectly balanced. 2013 Ratti Marcenasco Barolo DOCG was also almost enjoyable, needing maybe only a few more hours to decant. And I have to mention Non-vintage Pere Ventura Reserva Cava DO, which was a superb sparkling wine, toasty, yeasty, bone dry, and delicious, even disregarding the fact that it would give any Champagne a great run for the money.
I enjoyed everything that was poured by Jermann, an excellent producer from Northern Italy. 2023 Jermann Vintage Tunina Venezia Giulia IGT, 2023 Jermann “W… Dreams” Venezia Giulia IGT, 2025 Jermann Pinot Grigio Friuli DOC, and 2017 Jermann “W… Dreams” Venezia Giulia IGT were all superb, beautifully balanced, and delicious.
The second producer I really enjoyed the wines from was Pahlmeyer from Napa Valley in California. 2023 Pahlmeyer Jayson Chardonnay was round and elegant, harmonious and on point. 2022 Pahlmeyer Jayson Red Blend and 2022 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red were both round, balanced, and delicious. The 2022 Pahlmeyer Jayson Cabernet Sauvignon was my favorite, with a textbook Cabernet Sauvignon profile of cassis and eucalyptus, elegant and perfectly balanced.
So what is this post all about? It is not a rant per se, this is simply a brain dump of the oenophile who wants to share his love of wine with everybody. Sometimes the image and the wine match, and this is the best you can ask for. And sometimes, they are not. But this is all in your head. You are the one who needs to find out.
There is still more, but if you are still reading this, you deserve some rest and a glass of wine that gives you pleasure. What we didn’t talk about is how The Image affects not only wine lovers – the image also affects the winemakers. Once image, story, reputation are built, the wine has to match. If the winery is associated with an image of exclusive, expensive wine, producing tasty inexpensive wine might be a challenge. In the name of the image, the winemaker has to produce the wine that will match – in price, exclusivity, methods of production, or a critic’s scoring. As I said, you’ve read enough, it is time to wrap up.
To finish this piece, I would like to paraphrase the famous saying “life is too short to drink bad wine”, because as a statement it is simply wrong, in most cases equating “bad” with “inexpensive”. The right way to put it is “life is too short to drink wines you don’t enjoy”.
Life is too short to drink wines that don’t give you pleasure. Don’t listen to anyone who tells you otherwise. Trust your palate. Remember, the stories are what you listen to, but the wine is what you drink. And it is binary.
Wine should give you pleasure.
Go have fun.
One on One wine Winemaker: Kyle Mizuno of Rolling Hills Estate Winery, Champlain Valley
Winemakers are special people.
They are the people who can easily make you happy, sad, puzzled, or excited. All without meeting you in person. All via the liquid in your glass – our beloved wine.
Knowing how the winemaker thinks offers an interesting perspective regarding that liquid in your glass.
And sometimes, you really want to know how they think, especially when the winemaker exchanges Napa Valley for Champlain Valley (not a very famous – yet! – winemaking region in New York), and substitutes Chardonnay with Frontenac Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon with Marquette.
Kyle Mizuno. Source: Rolling Hills Estate Winery
The winemaker I’m talking about is Kyle Mizuno, now of the Rolling Hills Estate Winery fame in the Champlain Valley region of New York.
After I tasted Kyle’s Marquette and estate Rosé, my curiosity piqued, and I had to ask Kyle to answer my questions. Kyle graciously agreed, and here is what transpired in our [virtual] conversation.
[TaV]: How did you get into the wine? When and how have you decided that you want to start making wines?
[KM]: I studied biochemistry at UC Davis, and a chance conversation at a job fair changed everything. Franciscan Estates needed someone in the laboratory. I took the opportunity and discovered that science was only the beginning. Wine brought together everything I loved about precision, agriculture and the endless possibility of a growing season. I never looked back.
[TaV]: Was there ever a pivotal wine moment in your life? If yes, what was it?
[KM]: Early on, I assumed my career would stay in the laboratory. Aaron Pott, who became a close friend and mentor, saw something I hadn’t yet seen in myself. He told me I was going to be a winemaker. His confidence and guidance pushed me to take that leap, and it changed my life.
[TaV]: You worked side by side with many “wine greats” in Napa Valley. What was the most memorable wine you made in Napa, why and who did you make it with?
[KM]: My years at Blackbird Vineyards stand out, especially the decade of harvests I shared with Aaron Pott. It’s impossible to single out one bottle. We made wines together that I remain proud of, and each vintage taught me something different about fruit, patience and the decisions that shaped wonderfully finished wines.
[TaV]: Now, from Napa Valley to Champlain Valley in upstate New York – why?
[KM]: Because the wine comes first. After 25 years in Napa, I was drawn to the chance to work with grapes whose full potential is still being discovered, in a region whose reputation is still taking shape. The Champlain Valley of New York offers the opportunity to make international-caliber wines that are decidedly different. It’s rare to find a place where you can apply everything you’ve learned and still be learning something new with every harvest.
Source: Rolling Hills Estate Winery
Source: Rolling Hills Estate Winery
[TaV]: What makes Champlain Valley appellation unique? is there any other appellation around the world you would compare it to?
[KM]: The Champlain Valley of New York has clay-rich soils, a dynamic growing season and the influence of nearby Lake Champlain. Those conditions help shape wines with vivid fruit, natural freshness and structure. I wouldn’t claim it’s a copy of another appellation. The more interesting question is what Marquette, Petite Pearl, La Crescent and Frontenac Gris can express here that they cannot express anywhere else. And with each vintage, we’re seeing just how remarkable that expression can be.
[TaV]: Do you only use grapes from your own vineyards or do you also get grapes from the local grape growers?
[KM]: Our estate vineyards are the heart of Rolling Hills and the foundation of our winemaking program. As we continue to develop our vineyards, we’re also committed to supporting the growth of the Champlain Valley of New York as a serious wine-producing region. For us, it always comes back to the quality of the fruit and its potential to produce remarkable wines. We’re learning more with every harvest, and what we’re seeing only reinforces our confidence in what this region can achieve.
[TaV]: Organic/sustainable/biodynamic – do you see any of these directions at the Rolling Hills winery in the future? What is your personal take on these approaches to viticulture?
[KM]: We use sustainable practices and incorporate certain organic approaches where they make sense for our vineyard and climate. I believe sound viticulture practices start with focusing on the vines and responding to what the season demands, rather than following a label. Our northern growing season exemplified by a narrow harvest window can make the strict biodynamic timing difficult. The priority is healthy vines and wines that exemplify the best expressions of our varietals.
Source: Rolling Hills Estate Winery
[TaV]: Do you have any expansion plans for your vineyards, both in terms of acreage and new grape varieties? Is there any Riesling in the future?
[KM]: Yes. We will be expanding our estate plantings through carefully thought-out phases, while continuing to discover the full expression of our terroir and the wines it can produce. Marquette is our flagship wine, with the depth, structure and character to make wine lovers reconsider what they expect from this region. We see equally exciting potential in Petite Pearl, La Crescent and Frontenac Gris. In fact, Riesling lovers may find a lot to appreciate in our La Crescent and Frontenac Gris, with their expressive fruit, bright acidity and beautiful balance. As we grow, we will continue exploring what thrives in our soils and climate, always with the goal of producing wines of remarkable quality and distinction.
[TaV]: Can you please explain your concept of Rosé? The two Rosés I tasted at the Hudson Valley wine festival were as un-Provence as only possible. What are you trying to achieve with your Rosé expressions?
[KM]: I make rosé for people who love red wine. In Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon drinkers would tell me they didn’t like rosé, so I began making a version with the fruit character, texture and tannin they were missing. Our rosé isn’t trying to imitate Provence. It has color, depth and a little grip, yet it still carries the freshness that makes rosé so appealing. It is a red wine lover’s rosé, and each vintage captures that season in its own way.
[TaV]: Coming from Napa, I would assume you have a specific philosophy when it comes to oak. Considering that you need to work with an entirely different set of grapes, how do you see the oak usage at the Rolling Hills Estate? Also, speaking about your flagship, Marquette – what is its affinity to oak?
[KM]: In my experience, oak should serve the wine, never lead it. I have a long-standing appreciation for French oak, but these varieties deserve to be understood on their own terms before we settle on a formula. We’re working with Hungarian oak and comparing it with French oak to see how each influences texture, fruit and finish. Marquette has the concentration and structure to handle medium toast, much as Cabernet Sauvignon can. The goal is balance, not an oak signature.
[TaV]: The 2024 Marquette I tasted at the Hudson Valley wine festival was powerful, firmly structured and precise. Maybe it is an image just in my head, but I would compare it with Montefalco Sagrantino or maybe a young Petite Sirah from California. If you would do a blind tasting to showcase your Marquette (wink, wink – how about that blind tasting?), what other wines would you include in the line up?
[KM]: I‘d put our Marquette alongside young Petite Sirah and bright, structured Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa. The comparison isn’t about claiming the wines are identical. It’s about giving tasters a familiar reference for Marquette’s dark fruit, energy and firm structure. The fun of a blind tasting would be seeing whether anyone could identify the variety, let alone place it in New York. That’s exactly the kind of surprise I hope the wine can deliver.
[TaV]: Maybe you’re already doing it, but I will ask anyway – have you thought of aging your Marquette in Amphorae or a cement tank?
[KM]: I’ve worked extensively with amphorae and concrete, and Marquette could be fascinating in either. But first I want to understand how the grape grows here and how its character changes from one vintage to the next. Once we have that foundation, we can make thoughtful choices about vessels and techniques. There is plenty ahead to explore, always with the same objective: make the best wine the fruit allows. And we have some exciting things on the horizon for wine lovers.
Source: Rolling Hills Estate Winery
[TaV]: What is ahead for Rolling Hills Estate Winery? What do you think will happen over the next 10 years?
[KM]: Our ambition is to produce international-caliber wines that stand on their own, wines defined by depth, structure, expressive fruit and remarkable character. We want someone to experience a Rolling Hills Marquette or Petite Pearl and discover something decidedly different, something that challenges their expectations of what American wine can be. As we expand our vineyards and continue to explore the full potential of these varieties, our focus will remain on quality above all else. Ultimately, we want Rolling Hills wines to be sought after not simply because they come from an emerging wine region, but because of what they deliver in the glass. And if, along the way, we help establish the Champlain Valley of New York among America’s most exciting new wine regions, that would be something truly special.
And that concludes our conversation. I hope you learned something interesting about Kyle and Rolling Hills Estate Winery.
Until the next time – cheers!
Judging Wine, Discovering Wine
Come May, I start looking for the one specific email. An invitation from Debbie Gioquindo to be the judge at the Hudson Valley Wine and Spirits competition.
Now practically a tradition (which will be ending this year, sigh), it started about 8 years ago when I got this invitation for the first time. Ever since, I’ve always looked forward to the first Saturday in September after Labor Day, to take an 80-mile scenic drive to Rhinebeck, New York, where the Hudson Valley Food and Wine Festival had been held for the past 20 years.
For 18 out of those 20 years, Hudson Valley Wine Competition (expanded in 2011 to include spirits, thus becoming Hudson Valley Wine and Spirits Competition) had been an indelible part of the festival. Wine and spirit producers who are located in the Hudson Valley Region in New York submit their wines and spirits to be evaluated blindly by the judging panel to identify the best wines and spirits produced in the Hudson Valley (if you are interested, you can find all the details here).
Judging wines is always a fun project. We are doing this using the American Wine Society wine evaluation chart, where each wine can be awarded up to 20 points divided into a number of categories. Once individual tasting rounds are done, the best wines are judged together to decide on the best in show and best wine in different categories. If you are curious about the detailed results, here you can find the results from each year the competition has been run, and here are the results from the 2026 competition.
Here is an interesting tidbit. I had been judging wines at the Hudson Valley Wines Competition for a while. All the judging is done in small groups, judging panels (3 people), going through the flights of wines. The only information known about the wines is the grape composition. Sometimes, the same type of wines – for example, Cabernet Franc wines, a flagship red from Hudson Valley, usually judged independently from other reds – can be split between different panels. Here is where the judging process can falter. Judges always reach consensus within a panel when deciding on the scores and awards. But if one of the panels is more forceful than the other (e.g., consistently scoring the wines higher), the end result might be unexpected – the winning wine might not be objectively better (yeah, I know, that sounds bad, wine is subjective, there is nothing objective about wine, and yet this is the only way I can put it) than the wines judged by the less forceful panel… Such was the case this time, but oh well, what’s done is done…
Speaking about my favorites from the wines participating in the 2026 Hudson Valley wine competition, I had a few.
2025 Benmarl Winery Pétillant Naturel of Cabernet Franc, which won the Best Sparkling award, was simply excellent – refreshing, vibrant, and balanced. 2024 Robibero Estate Grown Syrah Hudson River Region was textbook perfect – dark fruit and pepper, a delicious (and my most favorite) expression of the Northern Rhône’s favorite grape. Lastly, 2023 Red Maple Vineyard Ethos, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, offered an excellent rendition of classic Bordeaux Claret, with cassis and eucalyptus, round and well balanced.
Done with judging, let’s talk about discoveries. One of the fun parts of judging the wines at the Hudson Valley Food and Wine Festival is an opportunity to walk around the floor, taste sauces, jerky, candies, etc. (I have done none of it this year), and taste some wines.
When I saw the stand with the wine from Vermont called Vino Freddo, especially after reading the list of grape varieties in the wine (62% Petite Pearl, 12% Marquette, 10% Crimson Pearl, 9% L’Acadie Blanc, 7% St. Pepin), I basically had two competing thoughts: “I must try it, there are at least 5 grape varieties I never tasted before, a great opportunity to advance the lovely grape counter” and “ohhh, this can’t be good…”. So the first thought prevailed, and upon the first sip, another thought floated up “hmmm, this is not bad at all!”. I spoke with Andy Farmer, who made this wine, and he explained that his inspiration for this wine was drawn from the Italian heritage, and Sicily in particular, with the goal of creating a red BBQ wine that can be drunk chilled – and I have to say that the mission was successfully accomplished with the grapes, which can actually grow well in the cold climate. I liked the wine enough to even get the bottle for home, and I plan to enjoy it when the summer comes back.
As I continued walking around the floor, I saw another winery stand, and a reprint of the winemaker interview published by Carl Giavanti – those interviews are well recognizable, as Carl uses the Prisma app (or similar) for the picture processing, which gives it a very distinct look. Drawn by the interview, I had to stop by and meet the “subject” of the interview – winemaker Kyle Mizuno – and taste his wines.
I started with two Rosé wines, both of which were interesting. 2023 Rolling Hills Sabrevois Rosé had a color of light red wine, not much of a pink – this was not my favorite (this wine was not made by the previous winemaker at Rolling Hills). 2025 Rolling Hills Estate Rosé had pretty much the same color (light ruby, if anything), but was a bit more round and drinkable. I also tried 2024 Rolling Hills Marquette, which was a serious wine – dark, brooding, focused, and powerful. After tasting Kyle’s wines, I decided that I should probably do an interview of my own. Kyle graciously agreed, and you should expect to see it soon.
That’s the end of my story about judging and discovering wines (and new grapes!). Until the next time…
An Oenophile Walks Into A Wine Store…
An oenophile walks into a wine store…
I guess you are expecting a joke to follow, right, something along the lines of “A cowboy walks into a bar…”
No, that’s not the intention here.
The oenophile (yours truly) did walk into a wine store today (I stopped by my friend Zak’s Cost Less Wines store in Stamford), and saw a bunch of novelties worth sharing.
I rarely visit wine stores, so the novelty factor might be simply due to not being kept abreast of the latest and greatest in the wine world, but hey, I still want to share my observations with you.
Now, some pictures will follow.
First, I saw this beautiful display of Halloween-related wines and spirits, which is always fun (some might even taste decent).
Next, I saw Halloween spirits at, shall we say, the next level?
I definitely applaud the artistic nature of these bottles, but even then, $1,900 for a bottle, even with the Día de Muertos designation? Maybe it is all for the special effects…
Now, moving from Halloween to the wine-selling ingenuity…
Forget wine in the can. Welcome, wine in the Tetra Pak. Apparently, Barefoot was one of the very first to introduce wine in the Tetra Pak. It is 200 ml, and for the next month, it is on sale for 99 cents per packet. 99 cents for a glass and a half of wine (200 ml)? I guess it is not a bad deal. One important advantage of this packaging: unlike wine in cans, you can actually close this package, so you don’t have to gulp it all at once.
Barefoot was one of the first, but others followed:
And now, just a couple of label observations.
First, beautiful new packaging for the Ken Wright Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Oregon – at least this was the first time I saw these labels.
To finish off, a very intriguing label – Master & Servant Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, produced by 689 Cellars:
Can you tell me who is the master and who is the servant here? What is this label trying to say? Asking for a friend… If you have an idea, please leave a comment.
What have you found at the intersection of wine, art, and sales lately? Do tell!
Guest Post: Gifting Champagne: Moët, Veuve Clicquot, or Dom Pérignon, Which Is Right for the Occasion?
Today, I’m offering you a guest post by Krish M, a content writer with a keen interest in wine culture, food pairings, tasting experiences and gifting ideas. Krish enjoys turning everyday wine moments into simple, relatable reads, and is always looking for easy ways to help readers feel more confident about what they pour, pair and give.
Choosing Champagne as a gift often comes down to more than the bottle itself. A birthday, wedding, or anniversary may call for something different, and the right choice depends on the occasion, your budget, and the person receiving it.
Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Dom Pérignon are three well-known names, but each has its own style and place in the world of Champagne. Knowing what sets them apart can help you choose a bottle that feels right for the occasion.
Why Champagne Is a Popular Choice for Gifting
Champagne has a special place in the world of wine because it’s closely tied to celebration. Most people wouldn’t open a bottle for an ordinary weeknight dinner, but a promotion, a wedding, or a new baby in the family? That’s exactly when a bottle of Champagne feels right.
Part of the reason is the experience itself. The sound of the cork, the fine bubbles rising in the glass, the crisp, lively taste, and even the look of the bottle all add to the sense of occasion. Together, they’ve made Champagne a natural symbol of celebration, and a bottle can make a special moment feel even more special.
It also solves a common gifting problem. When you give someone a red or white wine, you have to guess their taste. Champagne is different. Plenty of people enjoy a good sparkling wine, and the occasion itself helps make the gift feel meaningful.
There’s a practical side too. A bottle is easy to wrap and easy to carry, and the person doesn’t have to open it right away. A good non-vintage Champagne can sit in a cool, dark place for some time, waiting for the right moment to be opened.
Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon: A Quick Introduction
Before we compare them, a few basics that make everything else easier to follow.
First, real Champagne only comes from the Champagne region in northeastern France. Sparkling wine from anywhere else, even excellent sparkling wine, can’t legally carry the name.
Second, all three of these names are Champagne “houses,” meaning producers that buy grapes from many growers and blend them into a consistent house style. And all three belong to the same luxury group, LVMH, which tells you something about how established they are.
Third, you’ll often see two kinds of bottles. Non-vintage wines blend grapes from different years, so the taste stays consistent from one bottle to the next. Vintage wines come from a single, particularly good year. Vintage bottles are rarer and usually cost more.
With that in mind, here’s what makes each of these three special.
Moët, Veuve Clicquot and Dom Pérignon: What Makes Each One Special?
Moët & Chandon: A Friendly, Easy-to-Enjoy Champagne
Moët Impérial has a fresh, fruit-forward style that makes it an approachable choice for many celebrations. The house was founded in 1743 in Épernay, and it has been one of the most recognised Champagne names ever since. Napoleon was a well-known admirer, which tells you how long this name has carried weight.
Its signature wine, the Moët Impérial, is made from the three classic Champagne grapes: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The style is bright, fresh and fruity, with notes of green apple, citrus and a soft, toasty touch. It’s not heavy or difficult. That’s exactly why people love it.
When it makes a good gift: Moët works well when you want something cheerful and dependable. Think of a friend’s birthday, a housewarming, a thank-you after a favour, or a small celebration at home. If you’re not sure about the person’s taste, this is a comfortable choice to lean toward, since its light and fruity style rarely disappoints. If you’d like to see what else is available in this style, you can explore more Moët & Chandon gift options before deciding.
Veuve Clicquot: A Bold and Elegant Champagne House
Veuve Clicquot has one of the best stories in the wine world. “Veuve” means “widow” in French. When Barbe-Nicole Clicquot lost her husband in 1805, she was just 27, and instead of stepping away, she took over the business and grew it into an international name. Her house is also credited with helping develop riddling, a clever technique for clearing sediment from the bottle, which is why Champagne looks so clear today.
Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label has a fuller, more structured profile, with Pinot Noir playing an important role in the blend, which gives the wine more body, depth, and a richer, more structured feel than Moët’s lighter style. Think ripe fruit, a little spice, and a full, rounded finish.
When it makes a good gift: Veuve Clicquot suits moments that call for a little more character. It’s a lovely idea for an anniversary, a job promotion, or a dinner with someone who enjoys wine and likes to talk about what’s in the glass. If the receiver usually prefers fuller flavours over very light ones, this is the kind of bottle they’ll likely notice and appreciate. For more ideas on presenting it, you can browse more Veuve Clicquot gift sets and see what fits the occasion.
Dom Pérignon: A Prestige Champagne for Special Moments
Here’s a point that confuses a lot of people: Dom Pérignon is not a separate rival to Moët. It’s the prestige cuvée of Moët & Chandon, sold under its own name. It’s named after Dom Pierre Pérignon, a Benedictine monk who worked at the Abbey of Hautvillers in the 1600s. Despite the popular myth, he didn’t invent Champagne, but he did contribute a great deal to how wine was blended and made in the region.
What sets Dom Pérignon apart is its approach. It is made only as a vintage Champagne, which means the house releases it only in years it considers exceptional. The wines also spend a long time ageing in the cellar, often close to a decade, before they’re released. The result is a Champagne that feels layered, precise and elegant rather than simply fruity.
When it makes a good gift: Dom Pérignon is best kept for the moments that truly matter, such as a wedding, a major milestone or a big career achievement. It’s also a thoughtful pick for someone who enjoys fine wine, since the subtle details are what make it special. If you’re planning something memorable, you can visit this collection of Dom Pérignon gift sets to see how it can be presented as a gift.
How Do Moët, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon Compare?
Here’s a simple side-by-side look:
| Moët & Chandon | Veuve Clicquot | Dom Pérignon | |
| Style | Light, fresh, fruity | Fuller, richer, more structured | Refined, layered, complex |
| Feels like | Easy and cheerful | Bold and confident | Elegant and special |
| Type | Mostly non-vintage | Mostly non-vintage | Always vintage |
| Best for | Casual celebrations | Meaningful occasions | Major milestones |
| Price level | Most accessible | Mid-range | Highest |
The simplest way to think about it: Moët is the friendly crowd-pleaser, Veuve Clicquot is the confident one with more character, and Dom Pérignon is the special-occasion bottle for people who really appreciate wine.
Which Champagne Suits a Birthday, Wedding or Anniversary Gift?
For a birthday: Moët is a natural fit. It’s cheerful, widely loved, and works whether the birthday is casual or a big party. For a milestone birthday such as a 40th or 50th, Veuve Clicquot adds a little more weight to the gesture.
For a wedding: This depends on your relationship with the couple. For friends or colleagues, Moët or Veuve Clicquot is a thoughtful choice. For close family or a once-in-a-lifetime celebration, Dom Pérignon feels fitting, since it marks the day as truly important.
For an anniversary: Veuve Clicquot is a lovely middle ground, with enough richness and character to feel romantic without being over the top. For a landmark anniversary like the 25th, Dom Pérignon is worth considering.
For holidays and corporate thank-yous: Moët is the practical pick. It’s recognisable, elegant and appropriate for almost everyone on your list.
What Should You Know Before Choosing Champagne as a Gift?
A few simple checks will help you avoid common mistakes:
- Think about the person, not just the brand. Someone who enjoys light, crisp drinks may prefer Moët. Someone who likes red wine or fuller flavours may love Veuve Clicquot.
- Look for “Brut” on the label. It means dry, which is the most popular style. Sweeter styles, labelled “Demi-Sec,” suit a smaller group of people.
- Keep it cool, not cold, when gifting. The bottle doesn’t need to be chilled when you hand it over. Just keep it away from heat and direct sunlight. The receiver can chill it for a few hours before serving, ideally to around 8-10°C (46-50°F).
- Check that they drink alcohol, and that the recipient is of legal drinking age. It sounds obvious, but it matters.
- Presentation counts. A simple box, a gift tag or a pair of Champagne flutes alongside the bottle makes the gift feel more personal.
Final Thoughts
There’s no single “best” Champagne to gift. The right bottle is the one that fits the moment and the person receiving it. Choose Moët when you want something easy and joyful, Veuve Clicquot when you want a bit more character, and Dom Pérignon when the occasion is truly big.
Whichever you pick, the thought behind it matters most. Here’s to making someone’s celebration a little more memorable.
Trust the Rosso
What is the best part of drinking wine?
It is a simple question.
The simplicity of the question doesn’t mean that the answer to that question is simple. Also, it doesn’t mean that there is only one answer to that question. Similar to the subject at hand, wine, which is subjective, the answer to our question is also highly subjective.
While I’m genuinely interested in your answer to this question (and I will be delighted to read it in the comments), let me answer my own question first.
The best part of drinking wine is conversation. It is possible that you were expecting to hear “buzz”, “pleasure”, or something else, but for me, it is a conversation. A conversation that usually everyone can enjoy, and sometimes even agree on things – wine is a great tool for leveling the arguments and finding common ground. And among all subjects, sometimes these conversations are about wine.
Wine is life. For thousands of years, wine was an indelible part of life, and I really hope that it will continue to be for many more thousands. Wine is a reflection of culture, and fully intertwined with culture. So basically, wine can help you talk about anything – but it is also a perfect subject in itself. Such was my experience two weeks ago.
I met for lunch with Gabriele Casagrande, an export manager for Capanna, one of the original Brunello producers in Montalcino. Our conversation went all over the wine world – from kosher Chianti wines to the best Syrah in Tuscany, to Amarone, which you need to go out of your way to find an enjoyable bottle, then to California Cabernet Sauvignon, and then back to Italy. Of course, we discussed how the young generation [supposedly] doesn’t drink wine, then we inevitably got back to the subject of Brunello.
Capanna winery was founded in 1957 by Giuseppe Cencioni, together with his sons Benito and Franco. After Brunello di Montalcino obtained DOC status in 1966, Giuseppe was one of the 25 founders of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. So obviously, Capanna means Brunello, one of the iconic “3B”s of Italian winemaking, along with Barolo and Barbaresco.
Despite the grandstanding, Brunello is not immune to the problems wine is experiencing today worldwide – consumption is down, and the culture of wine is slowly getting lost, especially with the younger generations. One of the good answers to such challenges is innovation – and Capanna does just that.
The first wine we tried during lunch was 2024 Capanna SanGioBì Bianco Toscana IGT. To begin with, how many wineries in Montalcino make white wines? I don’t know if Capanna is the only one, but definitely not many. Care to guess what grape this wine is made from? No, it is not made from Tuscany’s darling Vernaccia, nor it is Vermentino, try again. Well, if you said Sangiovese, you got it! This wine is made from the same grape the Brunello is made from, Sangiovese. The color of the majority of red wines comes from the skin (there are exceptions, such as wines made from the teinturier grape varieties). When you press Sangiovese grapes, you get clear juice. Leave the skins for grappa, and you get a delicious white wine.
The wine was delicious. One of my favorite references to the great white wines is “in a blind tasting I would say it is Chardonnay”. I love Chardonnay in general, but my “textbook reference” expression is the one which has apples, vanilla, lemon, and a tiny bit of butter, all in perfect harmony. And this is what this SanGioBì offered: silky, round, and delightful. Anyone who likes white wine, and especially those who don’t belong to the ABC club, would really enjoy this wine and should really make an effort to find it. Oh yes, and it literally opened up better as it warmed up in the glass – another hallmark of an excellent white wine in my book.
Next, we tried our next wine, 2024 Capanna Rosso di Montalcino DOC, and now it is time to discuss why I’m asking you to trust the Rosso.
Rosso di Montalcino is often misunderstood by wine consumers and misused by the winemakers. Wine consumers look at Rosso as the second-grade citizen, a “poor man’s Brunello”. Winemakers are often the reason for that, as in many instances Rosso is an afterthought, made with grapes that are left over or not suitable for the flagship Brunello.
Considering what I just said, you are probably wondering “what’s up with Trust the Rosso” thing? If winemakers give the wine “second-hand” treatment, why on Earth am I asking you to trust it?
The explanation is actually quite simple. The take on the Rosso is changing in Montalcino, and more and more it is treated as the wine in its own right. While the pricing of the Rosso is quite advantageous, usually at half or less than that of Brunello, this is not the main reason to trust the Rosso. In my opinion, the true value of Rosso is in its consistency and predictability.
When you open a bottle of Rosso that has just been released, you can trust that you will find an easy-to-drink, pop-and-pour wine, which unmistakably comes from Montalcino, but is ready to enjoy right away. Brunello can only be released 5 years after the harvest and has to spend at least 2 years in the oak. As it is usually the case with wines which are aged for this long with and without oak, enjoying them often becomes a matter of luck – sometimes they taste good right away, and sometimes you need to conjure over a decanter for an unknown number of hours to arrive at the wine you are ready to enjoy. With Rosso, your chance of finding pleasure in the glass of wine in front of you is much, much higher.
The 2024 Capanna Rosso di Montalcino is a perfect illustration. The wine is produced from the grapes harvested from the designated vineyard – not an afterthought, but the vineyard which was planted specifically to produce Capanna Rosso. And then… The proof is always in the glass… After the initial pleasure of the first sip of Capanna Rosso subsided, my first reaction was “ohh, this is a dangerous wine”. I define wine as “dangerous” when it is so pleasant and so easy to drink that you find yourself staring at the empty bottom of the bottle much sooner than you care to realize. Beautiful cherries, lip-smacking but light, round and layered, with perfect balance and medium-long finish – dangerous and pleasant. I trusted the Rosso, and Rosso delivered.
As we didn’t have to open the Capanna Brunello during lunch, I brought the bottle home to try the next day. The 2021 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG experience was exactly as I mentioned above. Upon opening, the wine was beautiful – succulent cherries, both red and black, violets, a touch of balsamic, intense, beautiful, and delicious. The next day, the wine became somewhat closed. On day 3, the cherry profile became much leaner, somewhat similar to the Rosso, but now the profile was supported by very pronounced tannins – not a bad thing, but yet a different expression. Yes, consumed in one sitting, the 2021 Capanna Brunello would be perfect. If put aside, as many of us do with more expensive bottles, enjoying it in the 2, 3, 5 years can become a subject of your decanter mastery. So I say it again – trust the Rosso.
That’s my story, friends. I’m curious about your take, of course. And by the way, Capanna will turn 70 next year, which is a great cause for celebration, so I’m definitely looking forward to more happy encounters with their wines.
Until the next time…
Beauty of Age
Wine is better with age.
No, it is not a universal truth, but lots and lots of wines improve with age.
“Improve” might not even be the right term.
When we put the wine into the cellar (whatever your cellar looks like, as long as it is not a shelf next to your stove which you use every day), the wine starts changing. This is what we call aging. Nobody knows how the wine is changing, how fast, and what this change entails. For the optimists wine enthusiasts like myself, the hope is that wine is evolving, becoming better, and ultimately, delivering more pleasure than it did upon release.
The evolution of the wine, when it actually happens, is not endless. “Whatever goes up will come down”. This is why wine lovers use an important jargon word: “peak”. The wine at its peak delivers the most pleasure one can wish for. Again, nobody knows when the wine reaches its peak, and for how long that peak will last. That is what makes wine amazing – when you open a bottle, you have no idea what you will find inside. An equal opportunity for joy and disappointment before the cork is pulled – the mystery of wine.
Not all wines will improve with age. And when you taste the wine young, upon release, you still don’t know how well the wine will age or whether it will age at all. Yes, everybody can make a guess. Supposedly, wine critics and wine makers are better at guessing the expected lifespan of the wine, including its peak and “past prime” – another important jargon word for the wine that went into decline and now offers less pleasure than it did “at a peak”.
Remember: wine is subjective. Every wine drinker can tell their story, and nobody can tell them that they are wrong.
What prompted this reflection on the wine aging?
A bottle of Portuguese wine, 2013 Enoport Tonel 22 Reserva Douro (13% ABV, 35% Touriga Nacional, 35% Tinta Roriz, 30% Touriga Franca).
I scored 4 bottles of this wine back in 2017 at Wine Till Sold Out (WTSO) for $10.99 each. I tasted the wine through the years, and honestly, it was not really working for me. It was tight, dense, and closed, not offering layers of pleasure as Douro Reserva reds can do, like this 2009 Casa Burmester. Until now.
This was the last bottle (of course :)) and I pulled it out without much hope or expectation – “hmm, let’s see how this is”. Boy, what a pleasure I walked into…
The seduction started with the smell, offering ripe cherries and cassis, with a whiff of the cigar box. The palate followed, voluptuous, layered, generous, and perfectly balanced, with perfectly integrated tannins offering a light tingling and lots of pleasure. A delight (9-).
If someone were to write a textbook for wine lovers “How to enjoy wine”, this wine would be a perfect textbook study, hitting all the important checkmarks:
- Patience is rewarded
- Wine is better with age
- Price is not an indicator of quality and doesn’t predict the ageability of the wine
$10.99. 7 years in the cellar. Lots and lots of pleasure.
A Beauty of Age.
What’s your story?
Merlot On My Mind
Being obsessed over a grape lately?
I have. Not even sure why, but I have.
Merlot had been on my mind. Why Merlot? Why now? I don’t know. I’m sure something triggered it, but I really have no clue as to what and why.
Merlot’s name might not be around since the 13th century as Pinot Noir has, or the 15th century as Riesling, but it is a well-known grape from Bordeaux, first mentioned in 1874. Merlot is one of the main grapes in Bordeaux, alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, named after a blackbird (Merle is a French name for the blackbird), either for color similarities between the grape and the bird’s appearance, or maybe due to the bird’s appetite for the tasty grapes.
Merlot today is one of the most planted grapes in the world – for example, it might surprise you, but Merlot is the second most planted grape in Tuscany after Sangiovese. And it is also the main (and only) grape in some of the best wines in the world, such as Petrus, Le Pin, Masseto, Tua Rita Redigaffe, and others. And yet Merlot’s standing was badly hurt in the United States, all based on the famous words of the middle-aged man going through a middle-age life crisis – “I’m not drinking f-ing Merlot” in the 2004 flick “Sideways”:
Considering the effect this movie had on the Merlot wines in the USA, it really should be studied as one of the earliest and most effective testaments to the dangers of “influencers”. Facebook was in its infancy, the first iPhone was 3 years away, and Twitter, Instagram, and TikTok were not even the products of the wildest imagination – and yet this 2-hour movie woven around California wine country with loudly proclaimed love for Pinot Noir and disdain for Merlot managed to inflict very significant damage to the Merlot market in the US, at least the California Merlot (of course, when the bottle says Petrus or Masseto, the majority of wine drinkers have no clue that the Sideways’ hated grape is inside).
I would perfectly understand if Merlot’s reputation would suffer due to a scandal, such as the Austrian Antifreeze scandal in 1985, which literally killed the Austrian wine industry for a long time, or Brunellogate in 2008, with the aftershocks still experienced even today. But it was nothing like that – there were only the words “I’m not drinking the f-ing Merlot,” which led to significant consequences. Merlot sales dropped 2% – 4% in 2005 – 2008 following the movie release in 2004. Merlot share of crushed grapes in California went down from 20% to 13% by 2008. Merlot plantings were reduced roughly by 35% between 20004 and 2023. Many wine stores simply removed California Merlot from the shelves. There is also another estimate that Merlot lost $400M in unrealized sales from 2004 until 2014. All in all, a very dramatic consequence of the “rage over a grape”.
As I mentioned before, I really don’t get it. My experience with Merlot wines is exactly on par with any other “major grapes”, both in terms of wines that I liked and wines that I didn’t like, so truly, the effect of Sideways is an enigma – but again, it has to be studied in depth to understand how “influencing” works. Okay, enough of this.
I don’t know if Merlot has fully recovered today, and again, there are many regions around the world where Merlot’s standing was not hurt, especially in the regions where the Merlot name doesn’t readily appear on the front label. Amazing Merlot wines are made in Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, France, Israel, Italy, New York (particularly on Long Island), Spain, Virginia, Washington, and everywhere in between. And it is not just places – it is also wine styles! Today, in addition to the still red wines, you can also find sparkling Merlot, white Merlot, Merlot Rosé, and late harvest Merlot. Very few red wines can brag about such a range of expression, and Merlot is one of them.
As you well know, the truth in wine is in the glass. Which means… wine tasting! And we are planning one! The blind tasting of Merlot from 11 regions (Australia, Chile, California, France, Italy, Long Island, Mexico, Romania, South Africa, Virginia, Washington) is in the works, and will be reported on in due time. Meanwhile, I’m sure many of you have never watched Sideways, so consider this a lesson in wine influencing and go watch it… Just remember that California Merlot is not that bad, and California Pinot Noir is not that good… And I’m off to listen to the rain and wind…
Daily Glass: Inappropriate Wine
Inappropriate wine? What can make wine inappropriate?
Ha! I’m glad you asked.
I’m also glad that this is the wine blog, so by definition the content here is 21+. But then, in the adult world, what can make the wine inappropriate?
Of course, there might be a certain picture on the label. Let’s say naked people, or other images that we can deem “inappropriate”.
Or it can be simply a wine name. For example, Big Ass Merlot from Australia, Fat Ass Ranch Merlot, or a famous cleverly disguised If You See Kay. I guess that would also qualify.
But if you take a look at the label of an “inappropriate wine” that triggered this post, it has none of that.
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2004 Ravenswood Vintners Blend Shiraz South Eastern Australia – the name as decent as it can be. With an image of 3 interlocking ravens. Again, as decent as they come. So what’s with the click-baiting statement of “inappropriate wine”.
Here is what’s so inappropriate about this wine – it is all in the head.
Cryptic? Let’s unravel.
Tried to open the bottle using a regular trusted waiter’s corkscrew. Understood that the cork would break. So The Durand came in handy.
Pour. Swirl. Smell.
Time stopped. The brain exploded with pure hedonistic pleasure. Sensual? Yes. Sexual? Yes. Don’t limit your imagination. Whatever you imagine as a pure pleasure was there.
Balsamic. Ripe, succulent berries, bristling with juice. More balsamic. Eucalyptus. Pleasure. Yep, inappropriate. I’m so happy that the thought police is still some years away, or I could’ve been in trouble.
A minute or so later, I developed the courage to take a sip. Beautiful layers, a touch of tertiary notes with dried figs, but just a whiff, no sweetness whatsoever. Gobs of fruit but well in check, nothing cloying. Good acidity, impeccable balance. Pleasure. Gobs of pleasure.
You know what might be the most inappropriate about it? This was not DRC, not Screaming Eagle, not Petrus. This was a nine-dollar ($9!) or so bottle of wine, stored at our friends’ garage (they insisted that I would take the bottle home when we visited earlier this year – just as a random bottle). How is it possible to predict that such an inexpensive wine can age so gracefully? There might be an inappropriate magic hiding somewhere…
Truth be told, I didn’t even know Ravenswood was producing wines in Australia. I always knew Ravenswood as a California Zinfandel specialist, but apparently Joel Peterson, who founded Ravenswood in 1976, started producing wines in Australia under the Vintners Blend project back in 2004 (looks like 2018 was the last vintage). The way this wine tasted, the winemaker definitely did something right, and I’m really thankful for that.
Here you are, my friends – my inappropriate, unexpected, mind-blowing wine experience.
I wish you all lots and lots of inappropriate wines. And when you encounter them, don’t hold your thoughts back, let them run wild. After all, wine should give you pleasure.
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