Talk-A-Vino

What can you do with one grape? We are not talking about the quantity of the grape berries in your possession – we are talking about one variety. Especially if this is the white grape variety such as Turbiana (a.k.a Trebbiano di Lugano), for example?

Before I’m publicly ostracized, let me be clear. I’m not trying to say that Lugana is the only region in the winemaking world with only one official grape – Brunello, Barolo, Barbaresco, Burgundy, Albariño (Rias Baixas) are all single grape variety greats. But comparing Lugana with Brunello, for example, wouldn’t be fair. I will explain.

Feel free to disagree, but I always say that delicious white wine is harder to make than red wine. In white wine, you have nowhere to hide – typically, no oak, no skin contact – the grape itself either delivers or not. Besides, Brunello and the others we mentioned above already built their reputation, and a single grape is all people want.

Even in the white wine world, Lugana is not the only “one grape” place – we already mentioned Rias Baixas with its Albariño, and then there is Sancerre, Condrieu, Vouvray, and many others. However, as I tasted the delicious range of Lugana wines last week at the Destination Lugana event, I couldn’t help but wonder about Lugana winemakers’ ingenuity. So what can you do with one grape?

Lugana DOC wines can be produced in 5 different styles. First, there is a regular Lugana DOC wine, which requires minimum aging of 4–5 months in the bottle. Next, there is Lugana Superiore DOC, which has to be aged at least 12 months. Lugana Riserva requires a minimum of 24 months of aging, 6 of which have to be in the bottle. Two more styles to complete the list: Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest), which also required a minimum of 12 months of aging, the same as Superiore. And last but not least is Spumante, which can be produced using both Classic and Charmat methods.

At the Destination Lugana event, we were able to taste all the different styles with the exception of late harvest. As the event was taking place at the rooftop bar in downtown Manhattan, I didn’t even attempt to take any sort of reasonable notes. As one general note, I can only tell you that there was not a single Lugana wine I didn’t like. Fresh, clean wines with beautiful acidity – if I have to use a serious descriptor, I would have to call them “happy wines”.

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Here is the list of the Lugana DOC wines I was able to taste (we have to add to this a bunch of Lugana sparkling wines I didn’t take the pictures of the labels from):

2022 Tenuta Roveglia Linne Lugana DOC
2022 Zeni 1870 Vigne Alte Lugana DOC
2022 Ottella Le Creete Lugana DOC
2022 Cà Maiol Prestige Lugana DOC
2022 Tommasi Le Fornaci Lugana DOC
2022 Vigneti Villabella Lugana DOC
2022 Cantina Valpantena Torre del Falasco Lugana DOC
2022 Cantina Cereasa Ceresa Lugana DOC

There was also food. Fresh sushi, made right there on the spot – perfectly complemented by Lugana wines. Few different types of fresh pasta – I can’t even tell you if I had a favorite, all were tasty. And pizza, a simple pizza. All worked quite well with the wines.

Let’s get back to wine. So what else can you do with one grape? For example, you can take multiple harvests. As an example, in Oregon, early-picked grapes are used for sparkling wines (higher acidity), and then the later harvest is used to produce regular still wines. In the case of Lugana wines, we had an opportunity to taste such two wines from Scolari. While both belong to the standard Lugana DOC category, the first one, 2022 Scolari Lugana DOC was harvested about a month earlier than the second one, 2022 Scolari Premium Lugana DOC. While the first had cut-through acidity as a main trait, the second wine was more round and unquestionably more complex. Add to this a bit of time with the skin contact, and you get beautiful light tannic tartness from the wine which never saw an inside of the oak barrel.

And then, of course, you can age your wines, to produce Superiore and Riserva styles. We had an opportunity to try wines from 2017, 2019, and 2021 vintages, and I would be hard-pressed to name a favorite out of these three – I would just suggest you should find them and try them for yourself (you will not regret!).

2017 Corte Sermana Riserva Lugana DOC
2019 Le Morette Riserva Lugana DOC
2021 Perla Del Garda Madonna Della Scoperta Lugana Superiore DOP

And, of course, the rooftop bar means views, and it means I have an opportunity to inundate you a bit with the city’s pictures.

Here you are, my friends. Lugana wines are happy wines, I said it. Moreover, they are versatile, food-friendly, and will not make you break the bank to enjoy them. Do yourself a favor – visit your favorite wine store, grab a few bottles of Lugana wine, and then leave me a happy comment. Cheers!