Talk-A-Vino

A unique wine.

A unique concept.

We can take it to the extreme if we want. Wine in the bottle is a living thing. Wine is changing – for the better or worse, but wine is changing – enzymes are breaking, tannins are fading down. We can claim that every bottle of wine is unique, and similarly to “you can not enter the same river twice”, you can not taste the same wine twice.

Okay, let’s move away from such highly esoteric spaces, and let’s talk about personally unique wine happenings – and I will do my best to explain why I designate each encounter as “unique”.

Unique wine case #1 – “I never had it before”

“light golden color, guava, herbs, med-intensity, inviting; vanilla, apples, lemon, crisp, fresh, round, clean med-long finish” – in all modesty, I’m quoting the description of the wine from my own tweet a few days ago. Looking at this description, what wine do you think was in my glass?

Give it a thought for a few minutes. Meanwhile, I continue.

I will not be playing this #inmyglass game here, of course – especially since I actually borrowed this game from Le Bon Vin #inmyglass. The game was played on Twitter, asking people to identify the place and the grape(s) this wine was made from.

Chardonnay. Chennin Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc. Bordeaux Blend. Garganega from Soave. Lugana. Vermentino. Roero Arneis. These were some of the guesses, I’m sure I’m also missing a whole bunch.

Once we established the place – Italy – and after a few strong hints that the wine is a “curveball” and “thinking out of the box required”, we arrived at the correct answer.

Sangiovese in Bianco. A white wine made from red grapes.

It will not be the first – two out of the 3 main grapes in Champagne are red; Pinot Noir Blanco is quite popular in Oregon; I also had white Merlot and even white Cabernet Franc – and it will not be the last, I’m sure, but this was my personal first experience with white Sangiovese wine.

From the very first whiff 2021 La Loggia Toscaia Sangiovese in Bianco Toscana IGT (12.5% ABV) was special. Beautiful aromatics of guava and herbs, followed by a brilliantly balanced presentation on the palate, with lemon, apple and vanilla, crispy, fresh, delicious. If I would try this wine in the blind tasting, I would confidently make my bet on the old world Chardonnay – and yet this wine was made from Sangiovese.

I got this wine from the Last Bottle wines, which means that I might never see the same one again (I have a few more bottles to see how it will age) – but to my delight, I learned that an increasing number of producers offer Sangiovese in Blanco – I just hope the others will be as good as this one.

Unique wine case #2 – I might (will?) never try this again

Every Champagne lover knows Bollinger. A legendary producer whose Champagne was often 007’s wine of choice (yes, it is James Bond I’m talking about). Bollinger even produces one of the Champagnes under the “007” name. But I’m not talking about Champagne here.

Champagne appellation laws allow production of the still wines. The 2002 Bollinger Ay Rouge La Cote Aux Enfant Coteaux Champenois (12.5% ABV) is red Pinot Noir wine, produced from 2 acres of vineyard called La Cote Aux Enfant located in the heart of Grand Cru Aÿ region and aged in oak casks. This wine is only produced by Bollinger in exceptional years. I had this wine once 9 years ago, and at that time the wine was quite powerful, requiring some time to breathe. This time, the wine was ready to drink from the get-go, offering mostly the tertiary aromas – plums, dried fruit, still having enough acidity and some structure. My daughter offered probably the best descriptor for this wine – she said that the aromatics remind her of an old book – in a good sense. It is the book you lovingly and carefully take into your hands, expecting the magic to happen as you turn the pages. Do I wish I opened this wine 4-5 years ago? You bet. Did I regret my choice of keeping this wine for as long as I did? Not for a split second. A perfect rendition of the mature wine…

Unique wine case #3 – back from the dead and then red with cheese? Surprise!

1998 is one of the special vintages in my book, and I am always on the lookout for 1998 wines for a reasonable price. When I saw 1998 Chateau Saint-Nicolas Fronsac AOC (12.5% ABV) for $19.99 at Wine Exchange, I couldn’t help but grab a few bottles. I opened this bottle right after the 2002 Bollinger. The aromatics were very restrained, and on the palate, the wine just had some glimpses of fruit, but overall the wine gave an impression of the Bordeaux I don’t want to drink. A few hours later, things turned even to the worst – the wine was offering nothing on the nose or on the palate. Of course, it tasted like wine, but it had nothing going I would be able to apply any descriptor to. It was late in the day, so I pumped the air out and decided that I will deal with the wine the next day.

The next day I reopened the wine having literally zero hope for anything even half good happening to this bottle. The smell from the glass offered a glimpse of hope – dark fruit and a hint of eucalyptus showed up. To my delight, the palate completely transformed, offering silky cassis, anis, and lots of herbs. The wine didn’t even give out its age, it was still perfectly fresh with a good amount of acidity.

I had a small cheese board on the table, and without much thought, I took a sip of wine after a cracker with cheese. Combining wine and cheese is a lot more difficult than people like to think, so once again, I didn’t expect much. All of a sudden the taste buds jumped of joy, because the cheese, Bucheron soft-ripened goat cheese from Trader Joe’s, was perfectly complemented by this 21-year-old Bordeaux, creating a new level of hedonistic pleasure. A unique wine transformation and a unique pleasure of elevated food and wine experience – the experience worth remembering.

Here you are – my report on the weekend in unique wines. When was the last time you had a wine which you considered “unique”?