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New York Cabernet Franc Grand Tasting 2026
In my oenophile journey, Cabernet Franc was one of the early discoveries. It all started in Bordeaux, and I don’t mean visiting, just reading about it, not even so much tasting. Continuing that journey, at some point I arrived in the Loire, and there, of course, Cabernet Franc is the king. I wouldn’t remember what the very first Cabernet Franc I tasted was, but I’m sure it was a Cabernet Franc from Loire – Chinon, Saumur, I’m not sure.
As I live on the East Coast of the US, it is only logical that my Cabernet Franc journey continued while discovering East Coast wineries – Finger Lakes, Niagara on the Lake, Hudson Valley, Long Island. In the wine world of the East Coast, Cabernet Franc is the undisputed king of red wines – practically every winery I know of makes Cabernet Franc wine, and they make it quite successfully.
It is interesting how we hear things in our lives, and only many years later, those things of a sudden start making sense (call me slow, I’m sure I deserve it). When Lori Budd of Dracaena Wines started Cabernet Franc Day celebrations more than 10 years ago, it was all done under the slogan “Not just a blending grape”. Yes, I understood the slogan, but never thought of the full notion behind it. Getting into the wine world on the East Coast, Cabernet Franc was never a blending grape for me – the absolute majority of the Cabernet Franc experiences were with 100% Cabernet Franc wines. However, as the California wine world grew up following Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc was generally not taken seriously on their own, but only in the supporting roles to the major grapes – e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon, the kind of California. As I’m typing this sitting on the train on my way to New York City to attend the Cabernet Franc Grand Tasting, I finally realize what Lori meant by her slogan, bringing her love of the Cabernet Franc from the East Coast to reality on the West Coast, in California. Yes, of course, it is not just a blending grape, and I’m just about to deep dive into the world of 100+ Cabernet Franc bottling from 40 producers.
Okay. So everything written above was written on the train on my way to the Cabernet Franc Grand Tasting 2026. Now, I want to share my impressions about the event, about the Cabernet Franc wines, and the experience overall.
Let me start with the event itself. In a word, top-notch. Pay attention – these are the impressions of the wine blogger/writer/geek. From that point of view, the event was possibly the best-organized I have ever attended. Of course, I will explain, no need to nudge.
Before the event, I got the list of wineries and wines planned for the event. The list was sorted alphabetically, with all the wine details (vintage, ABV, grape composition, MSRP). In the event, the wineries were located in the same exact order! If I didn’t want to go one by one, I would just easily locate the winery I wanted! Okay, I get it, there were only about 40 wineries in the event, but I don’t see how this wouldn’t scale. Also, talking about organization – we had individual spit cups provided, and every (!) table had a large spittoon – an absolute convenience in the wine tasting. Every year, I attend probably 10, maybe 15 large wine tasting events, so from that experience, this was literally the best, if not the best ever.
An impression of New York Cabernet Franc Grand Tasting in One Picture
Next part of the experience – Cabernet Franc seminar. My first attraction point to this seminar was the fact that it was led by Kevin Zraly, whom I really consider my wine teacher, after taking his Windows on the World wine school classes a few decades back. So I was very happy to be in his presence again. For the rest of it, the seminar experience was more of an “all over the place” type. It was too long (was supposed to be 1 hour, but it was 1:20 or so running time, plus a bit of a delay at the start). The panelists were all knowledgeable, but none of them were the winemakers, so I really didn’t learn much from them, and they all loved to talk. And the worst part, unfortunately, was the wines in the seminar, and here I’m a bit perplexed. I loved the classic method sparkling Cabernet Franc from Macari Vineyards on Long Island, which we were greeted with as we walked into the seminar room. I also loved the last wine #9, 2012 Cabernet Franc from the Arrowhead Spring Vineyards Niagara Escarpment- it was superb. The other 8 wines were all over the place, from greatness to a simple “no, I’m not drinking that” – but, if I overheard the panel correctly, the wines for tasting were poured 3 hours prior. If this is the case, this didn’t help those wines at all. Again, it is entirely possible that I completely misheard that. But for further details, please see my notes on the seminar wines below.
Kevin Zraly
Now, let’s talk about my Cabernet Franc impressions after tasting and the seminar.
I have to say that it’s been a while since I had a deep immersion opportunity into the New York Cabernet Franc at any scale, never mind such a large and focused event – this was my first time attending it. But that is not even an important point. It’s been a significant lapse since I had New York Cabernet Franc, so all comparisons I was making were the present state of the New York Cabernet Franc versus New York Cabernet Franc as I remember it.
The State of New York has 7 defined AVAs – Champlain Valley, Finger Lakes, Hudson River Region, Upper Hudson, Lake Erie, Long Island, and the Niagara Escarpment. Out of this list, I’m mostly familiar with Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley (lumping together both Hudson regions), and Long Island. These were mostly the regions represented in the tasting, plus the Niagara Escarpment.
The State of New York’s Cabernet Franc definitely evolved compared to what I knew. This evolution now includes not only widely available Cabernet Franc Rosé, but also sparkling Cabernet Franc. I’m curious when (I think “when” is more appropriate than “if”, but of course I can be wrong) we will see Cabernet Franc Blanc (similar to what we see in the Oregon Pinot Noir scene). I also would think that at some point, we should see Cabernet Franc “port” just to complete the full range of Cabernet Franc expressions.
Now, to summarize my impressions, I have to use the word I don’t like using – interesting. Interesting is definitely not a very kind descriptor, but that’s the best I can do at the moment – let me explain.
I loved the absolute majority of Rosé wines across the board. They were elegant, mostly lean, and many of them capable of perfectly competing with Provence. The same goes for sparkling wines – fresh, generous, with a wide range of expressions, but I would be happy to drink the majority of them (if we exclude the price). But the main body of the tasting, Cabernet Franc reds, represented a mixed bag.
During the seminar, one of the panelists used the descriptor “finesse” to describe Cabernet Franc. I love this descriptor, but for me, finesse first and foremost means perfection of the balance. All your taste buds have to sing in unison for the wine to be declared as having “finesse”. For example, Cayuse wines might be the most expressive wines made in the United States, solely based on their ability to express the specific terroir, but the main descriptor for Cayuse wines is “power”, not “finesse”. Burgundian Pinot Noir possesses finesse, but the main expression of Oregon Pinot Noir is power, not finesse. Going back to our Cabernet Franc wines, I found “finesse” maybe in 2-3 wines out of 60 – 70 I tasted.
Tannins often were my main issue. And please note – tannins, not the use of oak. A number of wines were proudly unoaked. When the front of my mouth was literally locked up by the borderline painful tannins, and the winery rep was explaining that the wines were aged in stainless steel, I had to ask, “how is the wine so tannic?”. “Ah, we macerated with the skins for 71 days”, was the reply. Oh… I don’t know if it will help the wine to age better, but for those of us who want to drink the wine now… Please, don’t do this.
Along the lines of “finesse,” my second gripe would be another claim made during the seminar – “terroir”. It was said that now we can find similarities among the wines coming from the same “place”. That means that we should be able to find similarities between Cabernet Franc made in the Hudson Valley and successfully differentiate them from Cabernet Franc made in the Finger Lakes. Feel free to call me an amateur shmuck, but I would not be able to find similarities or differentiate most of the Cabernet Franc wines (excellent wines, mind you!) I tasted, even if my life depended on it.
On a positive side, practically all Cabernet Franc aged expressions were delicious. We had 2005, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2016, and other vintages with some age, and they were excellent across the board. The 2005 Millbrook was probably at its peak, and I don’t know how long that peak will last. But my general observation is that New York Cabernet Franc can age.
Please don’t get me wrong – there were lots of excellent Cabernet Franc reds in the tasting. If you want to surprise someone with a delicious red from the East Coast of the United States, a bottle of Cabernet Franc would probably be your top contender. Better yet – if you find – and afford – a library Cabernet Franc, your friends would thank you profusely.
Now, for what it’s worth, I would like to share my notes from the seminar and the tasting. One generic note – if grape composition is not listed, the wine is made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
Seminar wines:
2024 Macari Vineyards “Horses” Cabernet Franc Pet Nat (11.4% ABV, $32) – wow! Fresh, delicious, crisp bubbles, just perfect.
1. 2024 Fjord Vineyards Estate Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (12.6% ABV, $30)
A Wow nose, classic with cassis and tobacco.
The palate is disappointing. Green, aggressive
2. 2022 Benmarl Winery Estate Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (13.7% ABV, $40)
Complex nose with graphite and herbs
Green, tight, tannic palate. Not enjoyable.
3. 2024 Paumanok Vineyards “Minimalist” Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.5% ABV, $55)
Carrot Juice? Pomegranate?
Just no…
4. 2023 Lieb Cellars Estate Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.9% ABV, 88% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec, $38)
Classic nose
Classic palate
+++, nice, enjoyable
5. 2021 Wölffer Estate Vineyard “Caya” Cabernet Franc Long Island (13.5% ABV, 87% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, $37)
Volcanic nose, pleasant, nice
The palate is powerful and balanced, earthy notes, tobacco, pronounced but balanced tannins.
+++-|, excellent
6. 2024 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.5% ABV, 95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, $25)
Classic Nose on a lighter side.
Nice and classic palate, but tannins kick in quickly. Still, overall – not bad.
+++
7. 2023 Herman J.Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Cabernet Franc (12.8% ABV, $45)
Rutherford dust on the nose, medicinal notes, bell pepper.
No bad, but fruit fades away quickly, leaving you with tannins.
8. 2020 Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13% ABV, $28)
Beautiful, classic nose.
On the palate, the wine is balanced, with succulent fruit, tannins are present but well-balanced and appropriate.
+++-|
9. 2012 Arrowhead Spring Vineyards Library Selection Cabernet Franc, Niagara Escarpment
Nose is definitely medicinal, with iodine, cassis, and herbs.
Wow palate – wonderful, fresh, tight, great acidity, excellent.
++++, a special treat.
Here are my notes for the general tasting. I had time for about half of the tables (probably 23-24 out of 40), and the notes are very limited, as I mostly use my trade tasting rating system of “+” signs, with “+++” being a very solid rating. I’m also using “-|” as .5 improvement, so “++-|” basically means 2.5.
Okay, without further ado, here are the notes from the general tasting:
Apollo’s Praise 2024 Cabernet Franc – Picardie Finger Lakes (13% ABV, $28.00) – horrible. Green and biting
Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc Stainless Steel Niagara Escarpment (12.5% ABV, $19.95) – gripping tannins (71 days maceration???)
Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc Barrel Aged Niagara Escarpment (13.3% ABV, $24.95) – approacheable, nice
Atwater Vineyards 2024 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc/Blaufränkisch Finger Lakes (11.6% ABV, $27.00, 85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Blaufränkisch) – +++
Atwater Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (11.7% ABV, $32.00) – good
Atwater Vineyards 2024 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (14.1% ABV, $32.00) – ++, good
Benmarl Winery 2024 Pétillant Hudson River Region (12.3% ABV, $25.00) – +++, joy!
Benmarl Winery 2024 Dry Rosé Hudson River Region (12.2% ABV, $20.00) – ++-|, very good
Benmarl Winery 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (12.1% ABV, $40.00) – okay, strange. Petrol?
Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2024 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.5% ABV, $21.95, 95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot) – ++
Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2024 Cabernet Franc Reserve Finger Lakes (13.5% ABV, $25.95) – ++, supposedly unoaked, gripping tannins
Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2024 Dry Rosé Finger Lakes (12.5% ABV, $15.95, 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) – on a sweeter side
Clovis Point Vineyard and Winery 2022 Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (13.2% ABV, $45.00, 95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec) – ++-|
Clovis Point Vineyard and Winery 2022 Sparkling Cabernet Franc (12% ABV, $49.00) – delicious! light sweetness
Damiani Wine Cellars 2024 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.5% ABV, $28.00) – +++
Damiani Wine Cellars 2024 Cabernet Franc Reserve Finger Lakes (13.7% ABV, $60.00) – +++
Damiani Wine Cellars 2024 Cabernet Franc Valois Vineyard Finger Lakes (14.1% ABV, $42.00) – +++
Damiani Wine Cellars 2022 Cabernet Franc Barrel Select Finger Lakes – superb
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2022 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13% ABV, $27.99) – +++, classic, clean
EV&EM Vineyards 2023 Classic Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.7% ABV, $58.00) – too lean. 2023 was a very difficult vintage
EV&EM Vineyards 2024 Classic Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.7% ABV, $58.00) – much bigger than 2023. 2024 was an excellent year on Long Island
Fjord Vineyards 2024 Estate Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (13.8% ABV, $30.00) – +++
Fjord Vineyards 2024 Estate Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (12.6% ABV, $22.00) – +++, excellent, my favorite so far
Fjord Vineyards 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (13.1% ABV, $30.00) – ++-|, interesting, volcanic notes
Forge Cellars 2020 Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc Seneca Lake Finger Lakes (13% ABV, $26.00) – good
Forge Cellars 2023 Caywood Vineyard Cabernet Franc Seneca Lake Finger Lakes (13% ABV, $28.00) – good
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2023 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (12.5% ABV, $27.00) – +++, excellent
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2023 Cabernet Franc Magdalena Vineyard Finger Lakes (12.8% ABV, $45.00) – +++, excellent. Surprise – I didn’t like it in the seminar… Go figure…
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2021 Library Vintage Cabernet Franc in Magnum Finger Lakes (12.5% ABV, $90.00) – +++-|, excellent, round, powerful
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2016 Library Vintage Cabernet Franc 3 Litre Finger Lakes (12.5% ABV, $360.00) – +++, excellent
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2019 Single Clone 214 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes – an original Loire clone, very good
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2019 Single Clone 327 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes – a Bordeaux clone, certified in 1975, very good
Heron Hill Winery 2020 Heron Hill Classic Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.3% ABV, $22.00) – +++, nice, round, clean
Heron Hill Winery 2022 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.8% ABV, $40.00) – +++, nice, round, clean
Keuka Spring Vineyards 2024 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.1% ABV, $28.99) – +++, excellent, clean, delicate, light color with a lip-smacking palate
Keuka Spring Vineyards 2025 Dry Rosé Finger Lakes (11.8% ABV, $19.99, 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Blaufrankisch) – +++-|, a new favorite
Keuka Spring Vineyards 2024 Epic Finger Lakes (12.1% ABV, $29.99, 65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Blaufrankisch) – +++-|, excellent
Lakewood Vineyards 2024 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (13.8% ABV, $20.00) – good, light, nice color
Lakewood Vineyards 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (15.9% ABV, $50.00) – good
Lakewood Vineyards 2024 Cabernet Franc Dry Rosé Finger Lakes (13.1% ABV, $18.00) – good
Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars – Rosé was too sweet, and I didn’t like any of the reds
Lenz Winery 2021 Estate Selection Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island, Peconic (13.5% ABV, $55.00) – excellent. This is a new project at Lenz. Until 2017, Cabernet Franc was used only for blending
Living Roots Wine & Co. 2025 Finger Lakes Pet-Nat Rosé Finger Lakes (12.8% ABV, $26.00, 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Blaufrankisch) – too sweet
Living Roots Wine & Co. 2025 Finger Lakes Dry Rosé Finger Lakes (12% ABV, $22.00, 41% Cabernet Franc, 33% Pinot Noir, 26% Blaufrankisch) – excellent
Living Roots Wine & Co. 2023 Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes (12.6% ABV, $30.00) – excellent
Macari Vineyards & Winery 2024 “Lifeforce” Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.9% ABV, $30.00) – +++, excellent
Macari Vineyards & Winery 2022 Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.9% ABV, $38.00) – excellent
Macari Vineyards & Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island – ++++, wow, powerful, delicious
McCall Wines 2021 Cabernet Franc North Fork, Long Island (12.8% ABV, $28.00) – +++, excellent
McCall Wines 2015 Cabernet Franc Reserve North Fork of Long Island (13% ABV, $49.00) – ++++, outstanding, elegant
Milea Estate Vineyard 2023 Milea Estate Vineyard Farmhouse Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (12.5% ABV, $40.00) – ++-|, good
Milea Estate Vineyard 2023 Milea Estate Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (12.5% ABV, $50.00) – +++, excellent
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 2025 Cabernet Franc Estate Rosé Hudson River Region (13.9% ABV, $30.00) – ++-|, good
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 2023 Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (13% ABV, $28.00) – ++-|, good
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 2021 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Special Reserve Hudson River Region (13% ABV, $45.00) – +++, excellent
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc Hudson River Region (13% ABV, Library, 75% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon) – ++++, wow, delicious. Oldest in the tasting. Might be at its peak
Neverstill Wines 2023 Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes / Hudson Valley (13%, $49.00) – good
One Woman Winery 2020 One Woman Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.8% ABV, $42.00) – good
One Woman Winery 2022 One Woman Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.8% ABV, $42.00) – good
Suhru & Lieb Vineyards 2023 Lieb Estate Cabernet Franc North Fork of Long Island (12.9% ABV, $38.00, 88% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec) – good
Suhru & Lieb Vineyards 2024 Suhru Wines Rosé North Fork of Long Island (11.6% ABV, $21.00, 54% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, 16% La Crescent, 12% Lagrein) – good, and a new grape!
The Red Hook Winery 2019 Jamesport Vineyard Cabernet Franc Long Island (14.1% ABV, $40.00) – good
Wölffer Estate Vineyard 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc Long Island (13.5% ABV, $25.00, 82% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot) – good
Wölffer Estate Vineyard 2021 Caya Cabernet Franc Long Island (13.5% ABV, $37.00, 87% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot) – good
Wölffer Estate Vineyard 2010 Caya Library Selection Cabernet Franc Long Island (13.3% ABV, Library, 85% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% Merlot, 0.5% Cabernet Sauvignon) – outstanding
Uff, this was a long post. Hope you reached here, but if you didn’t, you are not reading this anyway 🙂
Until the next time – cheers!
Seeking Amarone: Grace and Beauty of Cesari Amarone Bosan
What do you think of Amarone? I know that some people simply dismiss it as an alcohol bomb, as many Amarone wines nowadays are sporting 16.5% ABV, and winemakers blame climate change. Okay, climate change is not the subject of this post, so let’s quickly rewind before we go too far.
Let me repeat the question – what do you think of Amarone? Love it, hate it, or indifferent?
While you are deep in your thoughts, let me share my take.
I love Amarone. I tried it for the first time in 2003, during Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World wine school class. The wine we tried was 1998 Le Ragoze Amarone. The contrast of dry fruit assemblage on the nose with lean, focused, powerful, and perfectly balanced palate was stunning, delicious and memorable. And that was the beginning of my love-hate relationship with Amarone (please keep reading, I promise to explain all the high emotions).
Maybe a quick historical perspective would be appropriate here. Amarone wines are made in the Valpolicella region in Veneto Province. While winemaking across Italy goes back to Roman times, Amarone has not been around for too long. Historically, the Valpolicella region was best known for its sweet wines called Recioto. The grapes for Recioto production were first dried under the sun to concentrate sugars (this process is called Appassimento), and subsequently made into the sweet wine. In 1936, supposedly, a barrel of Recioto was forgotten in the cellar, the fermentation continued, and resulted in the dry and powerful wine which was called Amarone, which means Great Bitter, contrasting it with sweet Recioto. Amarone wines began to be internationally recognized in 1970th. Amarone della Valpolicella received the status of DOC in 1990 and advanced to DOCG in 2010.
Amarone is not my pivotal wine. Actually, I don’t have a pivotal wine as some wine lovers do – many wines left lasting impressions on me and I would be very hard pressed to identify “one and only”. But Amarone is definitely one of my favorite wines – except that I more or less gave up on it for now.
The “Seeking Amarone” theme of this blog post is not random. I wrote a few posts under the same theme in the past (none as of late), as that spectacular experience with 1998 Le Ragoze happened to be really hard to replicate. With the exception of a few Masi single vineyard Amarone, most of the Amarone I taste are lacking balance, with alcohol being not well integrated and simply destroying any joy the wine could bring. Side note – 16.5% ABV in itself means nothing. Anyone who casually enjoyed Turley or Carlisle Zinfandels can attest to the perfect balance and harmony those wines exhibit, at the same 16.5% of ABV.
Possibly a bigger issue affecting Amarone was a dramatic expansion of the DOC growing area, which allowed subpar quality fruit to become a fuel for Amarone’s attempt to meet the global growing demand – Amarone production increased from 1 million bottles to 16 million bottles in 2008. However, that didn’t affect single vineyard Amarone, and this brings us to the intended subject of this post – Cesari Bosan Amarone, a single vineyard Amarone from the heart of the Amarone Classico di Valpolicella.
During the Tre Bicchieri 2026 event in New York, I was lucky enough to attend the masterclass where we had an opportunity to deep dive into the world of Cesari Amarone. And not just Amarone, but single vineyard Amarone Bosan.
Cesari Winery was formed in 1936 (so this year Cesari is celebrating 90 years). The first vintage of Amarone was produced in 1971, and in 1973, Cesari Amarone began exporting to the USA. And talking about important dates, 1997 marked the beginning of production of Cesari’s single-vineyard Amarone, Bosan.
Bosan vineyard is located in the heart of the Amarone Classico della Valpolicella production zone, at about 1,500 feet elevation (500 meters), on the hills facing south and southeast with volcanic/limestone soils. The grapes for Bosan Amarone are harvested about 2 weeks prior to the grapes for the other wines in two passes. Speaking about the grapes, Cesari Bosan Amarone is always made from 3 main grape varieties, used always in the same proportions. Bosan wines are made from 40% Corvina grapes, giving structure and complexity; 40% Corvinone grapes, bringing freshness and crunchiness; finishing it up 20% of Rondinella grapes, bringing balance and color. By the way, while the grape composition remained the same over the years, the drying time (appassimento) has changed from 4 months in the previous years to about 3 months (90 days) now.
Production of Bosan Amarone is a labor of love for sure, as it takes 10(!) years to produce Amarone Bosan, and another 3 years for the wines to reach “historical vintage” designation. After drying the grapes, vinification and fermentation are conducted in stainless steel. After that, the wine rests in stainless steel for 3 years, then goes into the barriques for 2 years, back to stainless steel for 3 years, finishing off with at least 2 years in the bottle. If the wine is designated as a historical vintage, it will take another 3 years in the bottle. If anything, Cesari Amarone Bosan production commands respect.
We had an opportunity to taste 6 Bosan Riserva wines, going all the way back to the 2000 vintage, thanks to the generosity of the Cesari family. To say that this was a special experience would be an understatement – the experience was truly one of a kind. Here are my thoughts on the 6 wines we tasted.
2016 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG (15.5% ABV)
Beautiful, a touch of gunflint, dark fruit, minerality, cherries, rocky undertones
Powerful, crisp, firm and crunchy, rocky undertones, well-integrated tannins.
8+, great food wine, but perfectly enjoyable by itself
2015 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOCG (15.5% ABV)
Legs are more expressive than in 2016
Dark cherries on the nose
Rounder on the palate than 2016, dark fruit, tannins a bit untamed, green notes on the finish. Needs more time
8-/8
2006 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC (15.5% ABV)
Beautiful nose, with dried fruit and a touch of dried fig.
Wow! Beautiful, balanced, perfectly integrated tannins, round, spectacular.
8+/9-
2003 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
A bit too much of the dry fruit, the nose suggested past prime. After some additional time in the glass, just fine.
Sublime, just needed the time to open. Still fresh tannins on the palate, round, well integrated, layered, with dry fruit undertones on the palate. Wow. delicious!
9-/9
2001 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
Intense nose, clean, open, elegant, hint of roasted meat, fresh red fruit, cocoa powder, a wow nose.
Wow. I can’t spit this wine! Wow, Round, elegant, layered, mind-boggling elegance, a touch of dried fruit. Impeccable balance.
9, a wow wine all around
2000 Cesari Bosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (15.5% ABV)
Intense tertiary aromas with the addition of roasted meat.
No tertiary aromas on the palate. Wow. Sweet cherries, perfect acidity, round, elegant, outstanding.
9-
Here we are – an Amarone worth seeking. Cesari Bosan Amarone will not be inexpensive, but it might be well worth it as a special treat.
So, have you finally come up with an answer to my question? Do you like Amarone? Hoping that you do, what is your favorite Amarone? Cheers!
One on One With Cristina Mercuri, Master of Wine
As you might know, I love interviews.
That didn’t happen from the first day of blogging. It took me some time to realize the value of conversation. But once it “clicked”, interviews became one of my favorite subjects on this blog – “Stories of Passion and Pinot” series might be the best proof of that.
Today’s interview is a bit different than the most. The majority of my interviews are with winemakers. However, today I would like to offer to your attention my conversation (virtual, as it often goes, even though this is one of the cases where I would much prefer a face-to-face format) with Cristina Mercuri, Master of Wine.
Cristina Mercuri is the first woman Master of Wine (MW) in Italy, and the fourth Italian MW overall. To put things in perspective, only 521 people have become Master of Wine since 1953, according to the Institute of Master of Wine as of February 2026. This is definitely an achievement to celebrate, so I was very excited when I got an opportunity to talk to Cristina. She is also the founder of Cristina Mercuri Wine Club – we will touch on that in our conversation below.
Cristina Mercuri
Here is what transpired in our conversation:
[TaV]: This might be a “duh” question, as you grew up in Italy, and yet – as a wine lover, not as a wine professional, how did you get into the world of wine? Family traditions? Was there a pivotal wine in your life?
[CM]: Wine was always present in my life in the way it often is in Italy: around the table, as part of everyday culture rather than something intellectualized. It belonged to meals, to conversations, to conviviality.
My real entry into the wine world happened much later. I was working as a lawyer and, despite having built a solid career, I felt increasingly bored and disconnected from what I was doing. I needed a radical change, something intellectually stimulating and culturally rich. Wine offered exactly that.
I began studying through the WSET programmes while still working in law, initially out of curiosity. Very quickly that curiosity turned into a serious commitment. By the end of 2015 I decided to leave the legal profession entirely and dedicate myself to wine. What started as a personal exploration became a new professional path.
[TaV]: What made you switch from a successful career in law to the unpredictable world of wine?
[CM]: Law gave me a very strong analytical framework, discipline and the ability to structure complex reasoning. But at a certain point I felt the need to work in a field where cultures creativity and human connection were more present.
Wine offered exactly that. It is an industry where agriculture, craftsmanship, economics and storytelling coexist. Each bottle represents a product, but also a narrative about land, people and time. I realized that the skills I had developed in law — critical thinking, precision, strategic analysis — could be applied in a different way to the wine world.
Leaving law was a significant decision, but it never felt like abandoning something. It felt like redirecting the same intellectual energy toward a field that resonates deeply with identity, culture and global exchange.
[TaV]: You recently became the first woman Master of Wine in Italy (and only the 4th in Italy overall) – how does it feel? What was the hardest part of the MW journey? What was your favorite part of studying?
[CM]: Becoming the first Italian woman Master of Wine is both a personal achievement and a symbolic milestone. In a different world it would be big news that another professional became an MW. In today’s reality, it also represents a small step toward greater diversity in a sector where leadership has long been male-dominated.
The hardest part of the journey is consistency. The MW programme is not only intellectually demanding, it requires years of sustained discipline while continuing to work professionally. Preparing for the Stage 2 examination felt almost like an Olympic training period: blind tasting every day, theory study, mock exams, mental preparation.
My favorite part was the intellectual depth of the programme. It forces you to think about wine from every possible perspective: viticulture, economics, geopolitics, consumer behaviour, communication. It teaches you that wine is not only about what is in the glass, but about the entire system around it.
[TaV]: If at all possible in this format, can you share with us the gist of your master thesis, “Wine, Women and Fascism: A Visual Analysis of the Representation of Women in Propaganda in Enotria (1922–1942)”?
[CM]: My research paper examined how women were represented in the Italian wine magazine Enotria during the Fascist period. I analyzed the covers published between the 1920s and early 1940s using visual semiotics and historical analysis.
What emerged was a very clear pattern: women were rarely portrayed as producers, professionals or decision-makers within the wine world. Instead, they appeared mainly as decorative figures, symbols of beauty, domesticity or national mythology. The visual language reflected broader political and cultural narratives of the time, where gender roles were tightly controlled and instrumentalized.
The research was interesting because it connects visual culture, political ideology and wine communication. It also helps explain why certain stereotypes persisted for decades in the way wine — and women in wine — have been represented.
[TaV]: I heard many times that women are better tasters than men. Do you share the same opinion?
[CM]: I don’t think wine tasting is determined by gender. Sensory ability can vary enormously between individuals, but excellence in tasting comes primarily from training, discipline and experience.
The best tasters I know share certain qualities: concentration, memory, analytical thinking and intellectual humility. Blind tasting especially is a skill that develops through repetition and structured practice.
Reducing tasting ability to gender risks oversimplifying something that is actually much more complex. Wine evaluation is a professional competence that can be developed by anyone willing to dedicate the time and rigor required.
[TaV]: There is a lot of talk everywhere that the world of wine at large is in trouble, as younger people either don’t drink wine at all, or have very specific requirements (low alcohol seems to be one of the most important ones, no oak, etc.). What do you think about young adults and wine? Does the wine industry at large need to do something to address it, or is it just a part of the cycle?
[CM]: I think the conversation around younger consumers often starts from the wrong assumption. It is not that young people reject wine; it is that they expect wine to speak a language that resonates with them.
For decades the industry communicated mainly through tradition, hierarchy and technical jargon. Younger consumers tend to look instead for transparency, authenticity and clarity. They want to understand what is in the glass, who made it, how it was produced and why it matters.
This requires a shift in communication more than a reinvention of wine itself. When wine is presented with honesty, clarity and relevance, younger audiences respond very positively. The future of wine depends largely on our ability to listen to those audiences and adapt the narrative accordingly.
[TaV]: Do you have a favorite Italian wine and/or producer?
[CM]: Italy is incredibly diverse, so choosing one wine is almost impossible. But if I had to mention a style that fascinates me deeply, I would say Etna Bianco. The combination of volcanic soils, altitude and Mediterranean light produces wines with remarkable tension, precision and aging potential.
Producers such as Maugeri or Palmento Costanzo are doing extraordinary work in expressing the subtle differences between contrade and elevations. Etna is a perfect example of how a historic territory can also represent the future of Italian wine.
[TaV]: Same question, taking the view of the world – can you share some names of your favorite wines and/or producers from around the world?
[CM]: I have always been deeply fascinated by Burgundy, particularly producers like Olivier Leflaive or Alain Chavy, who express incredible precision and terroir transparency in Chardonnay.
In Champagne, houses like Krug, Philipponnat or Yann Alexandre represent a philosophy of blending and long maturation that creates wines of extraordinary depth and longevity.
I also admire producers who work with clarity and restraint in different parts of the world — those who allow the vineyard to speak rather than imposing heavy stylistic signatures, like Creation in South Africa.
[TaV]: Do you have a wine cellar? If you do, what would we find there?
[CM]: Yes, I do have a cellar, although I tend to think of it as a working cellar rather than a collector’s one. You would find a mix of Italian classics — Barolo, Brunello, Etna — alongside Champagne and Burgundy.
There are also many bottles linked to personal moments: wines opened to celebrate milestones, wines shared with friends, wines connected to travel or professional encounters. For me a cellar is not only about aging potential; it is also a memory archive.
[TaV]: Can you tell us more about your project, Mercuri Wine Club? What are your aspirations? What are you trying to achieve? How do you see this project evolving over the next 10 years?
[CM]: Mercuri Wine Club was born from a desire to combine education, communication and strategic consultancy within the wine sector.
The project has two main dimensions. One focuses on education, offering structured training programmes that help professionals and enthusiasts understand wine with clarity and depth. The second focuses on strategic consultancy, helping wineries and wine institutions position themselves more effectively in international markets.
Over the next ten years I see the project evolving into a broader platform that connects education, market intelligence and communication. The wine industry needs more bridges between production, markets and consumers, and that is precisely the space where Mercuri Wine Club operates.
[TaV]: Last question: have you had a chance to watch Drops of God series on Apple TV? If you have, what do you think of it? If not, I can’t recommend it highly enough 🙂 [CM]: Yes, I have watched it, and I found it fascinating from a cultural perspective. The series captures something very real about wine: the emotional dimension, the role of memory, and the intensity of sensory perception. In that sense it does a good job of showing that tasting is not just technical evaluation, but also interpretation and personal experience.
At the same time, what slightly disappointed me is the risk of portraying wine tasting as something almost supernatural or accessible only to a few exceptional individuals. In reality, tasting wine is a skill that anyone can develop with curiosity, attention and practice. Blind tasting is not about superpowers, and it certainly shouldn’t be intimidating.
If anything, wine should invite people in, not push them away. The real beauty of tasting is that it sharpens perception and encourages dialogue. Anyone can sit at a table, taste a wine blind, and enjoy the process of discovering it. That sense of curiosity and shared exploration is what truly makes wine special.
Here you are, my friends. I hope you enjoyed reading our conversation, and until the next time – cheers!
OTBN 2026 – What a night!
Open That Bottle Night (OTBN for short) is one of my favorite wine holidays of the year – possibly simply the favorite.
The event, always taking place on the last Saturday in February, was created by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, writers of the Wall Street Journal wine column, 27 years ago. The purpose of the event or a holiday, if you will, is simple. Every wine lover has a special bottle waiting for a special moment. Let’s declare that special moment has arrived, and let’s open that special bottle to enjoy it now – nobody knows what’s ahead in life, so we should enjoy things while we can.
As I said, this is possibly my favorite wine holiday, I always make an effort to participate, and a few times even wrote about them (here are posts from 2016, 2019, 2020, 2023, and 2025). Whether I’m celebrating with friends or just with my wife, I always make an effort to make that day wine-special – I believe I have never been disappointed so far, judging by “what a night!” being a favorite descriptor.
OTBN 2026 was no exception. Typically, my OTBN experience starts with self-inflicted drama – what to open???? I have more than a few bottles worthy of a “special” designation, and it is always hard (very hard!) to decide which one or two should be called special in a given year. In 2026, somehow I managed to solve this conundrum somewhat easily – the decision just materialized on its own as I was mindlessly moving wine cabinet shelves in and out.
Lopez de Heredia needs no introduction to wine lovers. Way, way back, Lopez de Heredia Blanco was my first foray into white Rioja wines, and I have been a devoted follower ever since. Fiction by Field Recordings was the first wine that led to the discovery of the Field Recordings wines 17+ years ago, and it has been a perennial staple ever since. I can’t say what led to the decision on the 33-year-old white Rioja and 13-year-old California red blend, but this became one of the most memorable wine experiences ever.
Let’s talk about 1993 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Rioja (12.5% ABV). I have to start by saying that I’m not a fan of oxidative white wines. When I mentioned on Twitter that I plan to open this bottle for the OTBN, some comments expressed excitement about oxidative and nutty notes, which I was supposed to find, similar to what you would find in a glass of Jerez. And so I was expecting to find that, and was wondering if I would be able to like that wine. And then there were literally none! Nothing oxidative on the nose, mostly minerality and whitestone fruit. And then a beautiful, complex, powerful structure on the palate, somewhat along the lines of a good Roussanne, still with perfect acidity and freshness. Oxidative notes were lurking in the background, showing up and instantly dissipating a few times, but those were only tiny glimpses, not taking anything away from the wine. An absolutely delightful experience, a 33-year-old white Rioja possibly at its peak (but I wouldn’t dare to insist).
And then there was 2013 Fiction by Field Recordings Paso Robles (13.5% ABV, 31% Zinfandel, 26% Tempranillo, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 8% Touriga Nacional). This was my only bottle with an original label, which I really loved and much prefer to the current ones. There is nothing wrong with the current label, only that the original one, with a flock of birds, was conveying the message of bottled poetry a lot better – or rather music, as I wrote in my first post about this wine, Music, Recorded in the Vineyard.
I also loved the back label. As this might be the last time I look at such a label (the current ones don’t carry any of the text), I would allow myself to cite the text written on that back label:
“It’s 6 A.M. and if I don’t find them soon, they’ll be gone. The back of my pickup stocked with trash bags, I head out. If I was looking at the road, I would notice the truck’s path change from frontage road, to side road, to no road. I would notice addresses begin to dwindle and buildings become fields. But I’m not looking at the road. I’m looking at the sky, searching for the living static that gathers above the grapes when they are perfectly ripe. When the black cloud finally appears, I weave through the vineyard, throw her in park, stuff my pockets with plastic and dance my way through a mess of moving wings and beaks. Hours later, bugs filled with ripe fruit, bulge from the bed of my pickup and the birds have disappeared. Tomorrow, I will search again.”
Now, let’s talk about the wine. Screwtop. 13 years old California Paso Robles blend. Stored at somewhat consistent conditions, away from direct sunlight and vibration, but not in the cellar or a wine cooler. Priced at not more than $20 originally (directly from the winery). And yet, one of the very best wines I have ever experienced. A truly memorable one.
I poured the wine in the glass, smelled it, and couldn’t put the glass down. The time slowed down. Sounds practically disappeared. The aroma was magical. And the wine in my mouth was too.
Dreams, smiles, baby laughter, endless meadows, fresh mountain forest air. I know, it sounds like a brain dump, but I don’t want even to try to describe this wine in technical terms – raspberries or blueberries are not important here, what’s important is how the wine makes you feel. Refined, elegant, layered palate, flavors are transitioning and interplaying in total harmony, each sip asking for the next. Am I exaggerating? I don’t know, and it is up to you to believe me or not. But the wine was absolutely stunning and memorable. That I’m completely sure about.
Here you are, my friends. An OTBN experience that will not be easy to beat.
Two amazing wines, an amazing experience, great memories.
I don’t know if I will be able to do better next year, but this is the beauty of wine – the mystery in the bottle.
Until the next time – cheers!
Daily Glass: Pure Pleasure
Of course, it is Wine Wednesday – but this was just a happenstance. Not anything I planned.
A traditional dilemma – what to open?
Checked one wine fridge – no, nothing spoke to me. Next thought – maybe Field Recordings?
Again, without much thought – how about that bottle? I passed it a few times before. What vintage is that? Oh, 2019, that might be good. Ha! It is also a Syrah! Nice, my wife loves Syrah, might be her favorite red grape. Prefect, we have a bottle to open.
Talk about wines made in the vineyard. I discovered Field Recordings wines almost 15 years ago. At that time, the wines were more of a side project for Andrew Jones, a consulting grape grower. By nature of his profession, Andrew had relationships with many grape growers. More importantly, he knew the best plots in their vineyards, and thus he knew where to find the best grapes when he needed them. And little by little, Field Recordings became a powerhouse and a darling of Paso Robles, with the wines of unbound creativity.
My first Field Recordings wine was the wine called Fiction – here is my post about that experience: Music, Recorded in the Vineyard. This was love at first sight. Fiction by Field Recordings was my wine of the year in 2011. And Field Recordings is the only wine club I ever joined, and I’m still a member there. Over the years, there were literally a handful of Field Recordings wines I didn’t enjoy, because for the most part, my favorite descriptor for the Field Recordings wines is probably “mind-blowing” or maybe “mind-boggling”. As was the case today.
I opened the 2019 Field Recordings Zabala Zabala Vineyard Arroyo Seco (12.9 ABV, 100% Syrah) and poured it in the glass right away. The first whiff had a bit of the funk (love funk!) and a bramble. But on the palate… Oh my, the palate was a pure symphony. Well, a caveat – you have to love black pepper to call that experience a symphony. The palate was full of freshly ground, gorgeous, salivating black pepper. I experienced such purity only once before, while tasting the 2011 Michel Chapoutier Tournon Mathilda Shiraz from Australia. I was blown away by the purity of the pepper expression in that wine – and interestingly enough, after that first experience, I had a random success with the same vintage over a few years – but this is not the subject of this post.
This Zabala Syrah was literally mind-boggling (see, told ya, I just can’t avoid it). Dark bramble fruit, a little bit of funk, and lots and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Delicious, perfectly balanced, perfectly harmonious. A pure pleasure in the glass.
Maybe I just got lucky. I don’t have another bottle from the same vintage, so I will not be able to taste it in a year or a few years and report back. But we should enjoy the moment, and this moment in wine was immensely enjoyable. Wine should give you pleasure, and this was a pure pleasure.
So, what was your last mind-blowing wine experience?
And a Few Good Wines, Previously Was New Year 2026 Wine Escapades
For how long is it appropriate to celebrate the New Year?
Scrap that.
For how long is it appropriate to write a post about New Year’s celebratory wines? A week? Two? Four?
Okay, so as I’m writing this on the last day of the month, this is not a celebratory New Year’s post, but rather an account of wines we had an opportunity to experience.
As a tiny excuse to my tardiness, I want to mention that we celebrated the arrival of the New Year 2026 three times. So here are my notes from those celebrations.
Celebration #1- January 1st, New Year’s Day
To celebrate the New Year in style, I decided to do a Champagne-off between Pol Roger and Bollinger Champagnes. I have a lot of respect but very little experience with both, so I decided to compare them side by side.
This was definitely an interesting experiment. Upon opening, Bollinger had a somewhat restricted nose, but nice palate with a hint of toasted bread, apples, and lemons. Pol Roger had a beautiful, inviting nose with freshly baked bread, minerality, and green apples. However, it was mostly flat on the palate, so after the first few sips, we decided to drink Bollinger first.
30-40 minutes later, I poured another glass of Pol Roger, and oh, the palate changed dramatically. Now there was everything you want in champagne – toasted notes of the freshly baked bread, apples, lemons, crisp acidity – all elegantly woven together. So while both Champagnes were excellent, my preference lies with Pol Roger.
NV Pol Roger Champagne Reserve Brut (12.5% ABV)
Beautiful, inviting nose, with toasted bread and apples.
Palate initially mostly closed, just acidity. After 30-40 minutes, the palate is alive with toasted bread, apples, lemon, minerality, crisp acidity.
8+
NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut (12% ABV)
Beautiful nose, apples, brioche
Restrained on the palate, lemon, crisp acidity, lots of energy, very elegant.
8, excellent Champagne
I also tasted this sparkling wine, even though it was mostly used in a delicious holiday cocktail:
2021 Casasetaro Pietrafumante Caprettone Spumante Methodo Classico Italy (12.5% ABV, 100% Caprettone (new for me!) grape)
Crisp, refreshing, with steely, minerally acidity. This makes you crave oysters in a heartbeat.
8, excellent
2019 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District (15.9% ABV, 55% Grenache, 29% Mataro, 13% Syrah, 3% Carignan)
Of course, 7 years is not an age when you want to open Saxum wine. Black fruit on the nose with some baking spices. Dark and brooding on the palate, black fruit, cocoa, a hint of the forest floor. A bit more mellow after being open for 3 days, more pleasant to drink.
8, delicious
2017 ArPePe Nebbiolo Rosso di Valtellina DOC (13% ABV, 18 months total in big barrels and in bottle)
After a short breathing time, this wine showed brilliantly. Fresh cherries on the nose, restrained.
Cherries and violets on the palate, sandalwood, medium to full body, elegant, round, delicious. Glad we opened it.
8+, delicious
Second celebration:
On Saturday, we got together with friends to continue celebrating the New Year. This time, the wine lineup was a bit different, focusing more on the aged wines and the wines that might be past prime.
We started with a couple of Champagnes:
NV Veuve Fourny & Fils Champagne Brut Rosé Premiere Cru (12% ABV, disgorged 07/15)
Dark golden color
Apples, Almond extract, bread, tertiary aromas
Toasted bread on the palate, apples, brioche, cut through acidity even on day 6 after opening.
8+, while actual bubbles subsided, it was a very tasty wine. Really enjoyable even as a flat wine.
2017 Champagne Christophe Mignon Adn de Foudre Pinot Noir Brut Nature (12% ABV, disgorged 11/01/2024)
Bright Golden color
Apples and fresh bread
Apples, fresh bread, a touch of hazelnuts, cut through acidity. Very refreshing and very enjoyable.
8+, excellent, even on day 6
Next, this white wine was probably the most impressive out of all the wines we tasted that night:
2013 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros (12.5% ABV)
Bright golden
A touch of gunflint, Granny Smith apples, lemon
Fresh, bright, apples, velvety smooth texture, great mid-palate presence, good structure, a distant hint of butter, impeccable balance.
9-/9, outstanding.
Then there were reds.
1999 Frog’s Leap Merlot Napa Valley (12.5% ABV)
1999 Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% ABV)
Both wines were varietally correct upon opening, but it did felt that they were near the peak. No over yet, but having maybe only about 5 years of life left, before they will be officially declared past prime.
8- for each one.
2019 Revelry Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley (13.9% ABV, 22 months in French oak)
Dark garnet
Cassis, blackberries, eucalyptus
Cassis, mint, blackberries, sweet basil, round, smooth, medium to full body, perfect balance, medium-long finish.
8+/9-, a beautiful wine.
1993 Renwood Grandpère Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley (15% ABV, Bottle #19727 of 1904 cases produced)
Dark garnet
Black fruit, good intensity
Tart blackberries, coffee, a touch of toasted hazelnuts, good acidity, still present tannins with a pleasant grip on the tongue, delicious.
9-, I wish more wines would have this energy and deliver this much pleasure
Celebration Number 3
The week after, we celebrated the New Year. Again. With friends, of course.
First, a couple of Champagnes.
NV Monmarthe Champagne Privilege Brut Premiere Cru (12.5% ABV, 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay, aged for 36 months in the cellar)
Outstanding. Inviting nose, fresh apples with a touch of brioche.
Round, generous on the palate, roll-of-your-tongue delicious, fresh and elegant.
8+, excellent
NV Lété-Vautran Chammpagne Zéro Brut (12.5% ABV, 40% Pinot Meunier, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir)
Crisp and fresh on the nose
Palate is crisp to the point of austerity. Elegant, full of energy, very lean.
8+, another wine that is begging to be paired with food
2022 Cayuse Vineyards Camaspelo Walla Walla Valley (13.8% ABV, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend) – I know I was not supposed to touch this bottle, but I couldn’t resist the urge. This wine was clearly opened before its time. Probably 15-20 years would make it a bit more approachable from the get-go.
The wine was decanted, and yet the mineral, volcanic profile was the most prominent, same as with most any of the Cayuse wines in any case. After 2-3 days, the volcanic notes subsided, and the wine appeared more drinkable and enjoyable.
8, definitely needs time
2009 Tallulah Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley (14% ABV) – this was my last bottle. The wine was supposed to be special when I bought it, but it never reached that point. Well, until now, but with some reservations – even after decanting this wine, I had to wait for another 3-4 days for the wine to shine in varietally-correct way. But it did. It actually developed a cassis/mint/eucalyptus profile with a dash of dark chocolate.
8+ after extensive decanting.
There you have it, my friends – New Year 2026 wine escapade.
How was your January?
Struggles of the Winelover
Source: Pexels Cup of Couple
Yes, I’m on the streak. A self-focused experiment. I’m curious to see how many posts in a row I can write. Not just “hello – goodbye”, but posts with substance. Well, whatever. This is definitely not the topic of this post.
Oh, and here is a full disclosure – this post is about first-world problems. If you are not interested, you know where to click.
I bet you had no idea that winelovers struggle. No, not when we enjoy a glass of wine. When we enjoy wine, we simply ask for another glass. And no, not when we don’t enjoy wine. Then it is a very simple ask: “Can I have something else, please?” It is really that simple. If you don’t like the particular wine, there is no struggle – you just move on to the next.
The struggle starts when we need to choose the wine. At that moment, the struggle is real. A chain of thought might depend on the setting, but the unending back and forth is always the same.
When you are presented with the wine list at a restaurant, you need to decide based on price, based on mood, based on company, based on food. It always goes “this. Wait, no – this one. Hmmm. No, let’s go to a different region. Ah, yes, this one. No, wait, maybe this? Why is this so expensive? Ohh, why is this so cheap?” Well, got you. The last one is not real. If you know what you are doing, “why is it so cheap” is not the question you concern yourself with. But the rest of it? If you love wine and have ever chosen a bottle in a restaurant, tell me that I’m wrong. I dare you. Tell me that in the comments section. Go ahead, make my day.
The second one might be even worse. Now you need to select a wine for a dinner, get together with friends, a holiday, a birthday, an anniversary – you got the idea, right? This is where the struggle becomes even worse. When you need to choose a wine in the restaurant, you have a limited amount of time and a reasonably limited wine selection. None of it is in play at home. You start worrying about the wine months and months before the event – you can choose not to, of course, but only if you let yourself do this. Now think how many of us allow ourselves not do it, huh?
And here you are really screwed, as you have plenty of time to go “This! No, wait, that! Wait, no, no, I need something else”, following with “Is it too early? Can this already be past prime? It is my only bottle, should I open it now? What if it will be so much better in 10 years?”. And let’s not forget “Will they like it? Is that a good choice for that holiday? Is that special enough for the occasion? Maybe I can do better?” On, and on, and on. Endless. Frustrating. Annoying.
Why all of a sudden all of this soul-pouring sentiment? That’s easy, let me explain.
Any February is a tough month for the struggling winelover. You got Valentine’s Day in the middle of the short month, and then you have Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) on the last Saturday in February. And to add to the struggle, this particular February, we are flying to Florida to see our close friends, and they will have their wedding anniversary during our visit, so I definitely feel that I need to bring something appropriate to celebrate. There you go – three opportunities to struggle.
Source: Pexels Polina Tankilevitch
I still don’t know how we are celebrating Valentine’s Day. I’m sure we are not going to the restaurant, but we might decide to have some company. And it falls on Saturday this year, which is all the more reason to select a good bottle(s). In any case, what should we drink on Valentine’s Day? Yes, bubbles first, that is clear, but even that presents a dilemma. And what should follow the bubbles? What kind of red wine offers the best pairing for Valentine’s Day? If you have any thoughts – go ahead, don’t be shy.
Then the wedding anniversary – do I even have the right bottle for that? I have some vintage Champagnes, but nothing grand enough for the occasion. And while my friends generally like the wine, they are not wine geeks, so well-aged reds might not solicit the response I would want.
Last but not least is the mother of all winelover struggles – OTBN. The holiday was invented to help people crack open that special bottle still waiting for the right moment, which might never come. And yet OTBN is only one night, how many bottles can you open? Selecting the bottle for OTBN is ultra-difficult, especially when one has lots of wines in the quantity of … 1. When you have only one bottle, you need to decide if this is really the time, if the bottle can still improve, if the bottle is special enough. Ah, and please understand that “special” doesn’t mean “expensive”. A special bottle is simply a bottle with an attached memory, and for OTBN, we need to ensure that the bottle is special enough.
Here, I just shared my frustration with you, and I feel better. I even got some ideas for the wine to open on Valentine’s Day. And I’m pretty much decided on the OTBN bottles (it means nothing, really, everything can – and will – change quickly). But I do feel better at the moment.
So what would you tell me? Is this struggle real, or am I a spoiled, undeserving brat? You be the judge of it, but I know how it feels selecting a bottle for a month, in the endless loop between all the wine fridges and shelves. For me, it is definitely real. And for you? Hey, do tell your stories, I’m all ears…
“Drops of God” – A Must Watch For Winelovers
Rest assured – I have not suddenly turned into a movie critic.
But we just inhaled 8 episodes of the Drops of God series on Apple TV+. Apparently, we were late to the party, as the series premiered more than 2 years ago. And yet I accidentally came across it through a reel on Instagram. Next thing, my wife and I couldn’t stop watching it.
Set in France and Japan, you might think that the series is all about wine. But wine is a canvas, a truly mesmerizing canvas for anyone who loves the elixir of life, it is still only a canvas. The series is about love, family, friendship, sacrifices, passion, and wine’s unique ability to make people’s life better, bring people closer, and connect them.
That’s all I can tell you without any spoilers. And here is an official trailer:
Please, do yourself a favor – start watching it tonight. Who knows, you might want to thank me in the morning, when you are done watching it.
Cheers! Santé! 乾杯！
P.S. For some reason, the YouTube video above appeared to be broken on some of the devices. Just in case, here is a link to the show on Apple TV+.
Domaine Bousquet – Reaching New Heights
I might be ostracized for saying this, but I will risk saying this anyway – the wine world is simple. It might even be called predictable.
Here is how it works. Plant the vineyard. Make sure it produces good grapes. Make good wines. Learn about your vineyard. Divide it into plots. Learn how those plots are different. Identify better plots. Grow better grapes. Make better wines. Repeat. Next, make great wines.
See? I told you it is simple, right? So above is a simple recipe for success. Agreed?
Okay, let’s get back down to earth. The simplicity described above is only an appearance, a view from the outside. The simplicity is achieved through the countless amounts of hard work, passion, dedication, vision. Other than that, it is very simple.
Domaine Bousquet is less than 30 years old, and yet it is one of the most impressive wine businesses in the world. How? Anecdotal evidence is in the fact that I tasted lots and lots of wines from Domaine Bousquet, and I’m yet to find the wine I didn’t like. To take it into the real perspective, please allow me to quote myself:
I wrote about the history of Domaine Bousquet very extensively on these pages, so I’m not going to regurgitate everything that I already said – instead, I would like to suggest that you read this post, and also this one. However, I will illustrate my statement about the most impressive wine business with a few pictures. Here is what high altitude (1,200 m/4,000 ft) desert looked like in 1990 when Frenchman Jean Bousquet first fell in love with the area while on vacation in Argentina:
Source: Domaine Bousquet
Here is what it looks like today:
Source: Domaine Bousquet
Here is what domain Bousquet has accomplished in less than 30 years, after being formed in 1997:
Certified B corporation, certified regenerative organic, biodynamic, USDA organic… you can continue decoding the icons on your own. 5 million bottles are produced annually, and I never had a wine from Domaine Bousquet that I didn’t like. I rest my case.
Recently, I was offered to taste two of the latest wines from the Domaine Bousquet, and this is why I had to talk about a simple recipe for making good great wines.
These wines are vineyard-specific, and even block-specific – as we mentioned, this often happens when the great wines are made. Quoting information on the Domaine Bousquet website, these wines are “Crafted from organic grapes grown in our Eva Estate vineyard in Gualtallary, Tupungato at 1,257 meters above sea level, in the heart of the Uco Valley. This wine originates from a detailed study of 123 soil pits conducted with geologist Guillermo Corona, which identified distinct soil profiles and geomorphic units across the vineyard.”
Both wines were nothing short of stunning.
2024 Domaine Bousquet Ameri Eva Estate Organic Sauvignon Blanc (12.5% ABV, $35, grapes sourced from Plot No 9, fermented in French oak barrels (50% new, 50% second use), aged for 8 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle) had a very unique profile for the Sauvignon Blanc. It didn’t have the grapefruit, nor it have a cat pee. Instead, it was reminiscent of a nice, balanced Chardonnay, with a hint of buttery notes and a touch of honey. Delicious, balanced whitestone fruit, lemon, smooth but vibrant. If we need a style comparison, Pouilly-Fumé is the only Sauvignon Blanc that comes to mind, and otherwise, Ornellaia’s Poggio Alle Gazze would be my next best comparison. A delicious wine (8+), probably the best Sauvignon Blanc I tasted in a while. Oh yes, and this wine will age. It went from restrained fruity on the first day to tart and acidic on the second to the beautiful fruit medley on the third. Definitely worth the price in my opinion.
2022 Domaine Bousquet Ameri Wild Roots Block 3 Organic Malbec (14.5% ABV, $85, fermented with native yeasts in 400-liter oak barrels, followed by a 30-day maceration, aged for 12 months in French oak, one year in bottle) was even more impressive than the previous wine. Layers of luscious fruit, cedar, a hint of vanilla (a hallmark of Malbec in my book), minerality, a touch of black currant, perfectly integrated tannins, impeccable balance. This wine would easily compete with the best California Cabernet Sauvignons, for sure in a blind tasting. (9-), will also age nicely, considering the evolution over the 3-4 days the wine was opened.
Here you are, my friends. Two new wines from Domaine Bousquet, two next-level wines. still competitively priced considering the amount of pleasure they are offering. I’m not sure what’s next for Domaine Bousquet, but one thing is for sure – I expect more great wines to come our way.
Until the next time – cheers!
For the Love of Madeira
If I were to offer you a glass of Madeira, what would you say?
Okay, let’s take it up a notch: I assure you it will be a good Madeira.
Would you gladly accept it, or would you energetically decline?
I’m betting about 80% on the latter. And if you like wine, that would be simply your loss. But if you are in that 20%, accepting that glass of good Madeira would be a very wise decision.
Madeira has a long history of ups and downs, similar to many other wines. I wrote about Madeira a few times in the past (not enough!), so let me be obnoxious and quote one of my older posts about the history of Madeira.
Madeira wine takes its name from Madeira Island in Portugal. The history of Madeira, which started around the 15th century, is full of accidental discoveries, glory, overcoming of the hardship, rise and fall, and even love – if you are interested in the full story, you should take a look at the Madeira Wine website. In the 15th / 16th centuries, Madeira wine was created when wine was transported in barrels through the ocean to far away places such as India and China. It was found ( by accident, of course) that a long ocean voyage improves the taste of wine compared to the original one that went into the barrel. After many trial-and-error experiments, it became apparent that prolonged exposure to the warm weather was the culprit, and then the method of heating the wine up to 60°C (140°F) was invented. The process of heating up the wine is called Estufagem, and it is done after the wine is fermented in the oak barrels, same as any other wine – again, you can find more details online – you can find less colorful but more technical details on Wikipedia (click here). Just to give you a few more details from Madeira’s history, trade embargoes led to further improving Madeira by adding brandy spirits in order to preserve the wine. Barrels of Madeira left for a prolonged time under the rain led to the development of the new style of Madeira wine, called Rainwater.
In the 18th century, Madeira was one of the most popular wines in the world, especially in England and the United States. Madeira was used to toast the United States Declaration of Independence, and was highly regarded as a drink of distinction. Unfortunately, first mildew and then phylloxera epidemic delivered a way too powerful one-two punch, which the Madeira wine industry was unable to overcome. Madeira subsided to nearly a cooking wine level, and stayed like that for a long time. Luckily, overall uptake on the wine industry throughout the world helps to revive the Madeira industry, and now it is becoming possible to find a great drinking Madeira even in the US – and you will see why. And I have to note that one of the great qualities of Madeira is in the fact that, unlike practically any other wine, once you open a bottle of Madeira, it will stay the same more or less indefinitely, due to both the Estufagem method and fortification with the spirit.
Now that you have a bit of historical perspective, let’s take a deeper dive into Madeira wine.
Madeira is a beautiful island with a subtropical climate and luscious greenery. Madeira’s name means wood, oak – this is what the first settlers saw. Madeira’s climate sports tropical winds, hot summers, mild winters, and high humidity. It also offers lots of microclimates, from south to north. Mountains and forests cover 47% of the island, mostly with altitudes of up to 200 meters, reaching 700 meters in some areas.
There are about 475 hectares of vineyards growing on the island (about 1,200 acres), cultivated by 2,000 growers. Vineyards utilize a pergola system to ensure proper aeration.
Six main grapes are used in wine production on Madeira: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia, Tinta Negra, and Terrantez. It is interesting to note that Verdelho and Verdejo are different grapes! Another interesting fact is that Tinta Negra can be vinified as white, rosé, or red.
After the harvest, the grapes are pressed and fermented as with any other wines. Fermentation is subsequently stopped, depending on the desired sweetness, by adding neutral spirit. Next, the heating process takes place. Less expensive wines are usually subjected to continuous heating in the steel tanks surrounded by coils for at least 90 days. Higher-end Madeiras, especially the single-harvest ones, are usually heated using the system called Canteiro, where the wine in the oak barrels is secured in place using wooden beams (canteiro) and heated by mother nature for a prolonged period of time, inside the winery.
The majority of Madeira wines are blends, with the labels indicating the age and type of grapes (it is also possible to make Madeira without indicating age and the grapes). The age designations can be 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, and 50 years. There are also single-harvest Madeiras, called Colheita, which should be aged for at least 5 years in oak, and Frasqueira which requires at least 20 years in oak. Another beauty of Madeira is in the fact that the wine can stay in the barrel indefinitely, and bottled only when needed – some of the known Frasqueiras exceed 200 years of age.
Three years ago, in 2022, I was lucky to attend the Madeira tasting in New York City, where I had an opportunity to taste some absolutely spectacular wines. The event included a Madeira Master Class as well as a walk-around tasting.
Here are the wines we tasted during the master class:
2009 Barbeito Single Harvest Tinta Negra
clean, open, light, easy to drink
2005 H.M. Borges Tinta Negra Colheita
Hazelnuts, dry fruit, figs, lemon, perfect acidity, beautiful dry fog finish. Lots of pleasure. Foie Gras would be perfect with it.
2001 Henriques and Henriques Malvasia Madeira
Complex herbaceous nose, nicely restrained
Salinity, acidity, supercomplex, dried fruit perfectly balanced
1999 Broadbent Tinta Negra Madeira Colheita
Chocolate, dried fruit compote, very restrained
Dried fruit, great acidity, toffee, tasty notes, outstanding.
1990 Pereira D’Oliveiras Malvasia Fresqueira Madeira
Bottled in 2018
Great herbaceous complexity, fall leaves, medicinal notes, eucalyptus
Amazing palate, dense, complex, loads of dried fruit and hazelnut. Superb.
1978 Blandy’s Fresqueira Terrantez Madeira
beautiful, herbal and vegetative notes, excellent balance, hazelnuts, salinity. Fresh and inviting.
There were lots of gems in the walk-around tasting, such as Justino’s 1996, 1997, and 50 years old Madeiras; D’Olivera Colheita and Fresqueira Madeiras from 2000, 1992, 1973, 1971, and 1969 (1969 was bottled only in 2022); Broadbent 10 years old Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, as well as 1999 Tinta Negra Colheita, and others.
As I said before, Madeira really needs to be experienced, and you have a perfect opportunity to do so.
Coming November 18th, you can experience the beauty of Madeira for yourself. Here are all the details:
Experience the Magic of Madeira – Sip, Taste & Vote!
Tuesday, November 18, 2025 | 5:30pm – 8:30pm
Ideal Glass Studio | 9 W 8th Street, New York, NY 10011
Six producers, six bartenders, one delicious adventure.
You can get 2 tickets for the price of one ($55) using this link.
✨ Your ticket includes:
- Walk-Around Tasting featuring six top Madeira producers — taste rare bottles, some worth over $100.
- Cocktail Competition – six NY bartenders crafting unique Madeira cocktails. Taste and vote for your favorite!
- Food Pairings by Chef Nuno of Leitão.
- Mini “Speed Tastings” with Wines of Portugal Ambassador Eugénio Jardim, exploring Madeira styles in fun, 15-minute bursts.
- Cocktail Seminar: Madeira Cocktails Made Easy with bartender Francesco Dionese — learn how to shake, stir, and sip Madeira at home. (seating is limited).
Don’t miss your opportunity – and you can thank me later. Cheers!
Last Bottle Sign Up ($10 credit)
Talk-A-Vino 