Celebrate Chardonnay! 2025 Edition
Okay, I missed it again.
On Thursday, May 22, we celebrated Chardonnay Day. And I didn’t post about it.
Well, I didn’t entirely miss it. There was Charodnnay in my glass, so I only missed writing about it on time, but the celebration itself – yes, I participated.
Chardonnay is one of my favorite grapes. Well, those who know me understand that this is a difficult thing for me to say. I love wine in general, and therefore, I really don’t have grapes I don’t like. I might not be a fan of some producers, but grapes or varietal wines per se—I love them all. And yet, when it comes to favorite grapes, I have to shortlist Chardonnay among 20-30 ones I feel comfortable calling “favorites”.
Chardonnay is one of the most versatile grapes, perfectly capable of creating delicious wines from the bone-dry, unoaked versions to the full-on, hedonistic bombs. Chardonnay wines can be wonderful in still, sparkling, and even late harvest renditions, and they are produced literally everywhere – Asia, Middle East, Europe, North America, South America – see, I’m not even trying to be any more region specific, as it is pointless, or I would almost have to name every appellation in existence.
I also have another proof of the “favorite” status. In last year’s Chardonnay’s celebratory post, I counted the number of times Chardonnay wines were included in the Talk-a-Vino Top Wines of the year lists. During 14 years, there were only two years when Chardonnay wines were not present in the top two dozens, and a total of 19 Chardonnay wines were included in those top lists. Then, last year, 2024, the top wines list had 3 Chardonnay wines in it, including the 2024 wine of the year – an Italian Chardonnay from Banfi.
The pleasure of the well-made Chardonnay starts from the very first whiff from the glass. Vanilla, fresh apples, a touch of butter, and, if you are lucky, the honey. This is what makes me say “ahh” in the first place. And then, when vanilla, apples, butter, honey, smothered with a touch of lemon, continue in the first sip, this is where you say “oh my god…”. The key to this Chardonnay pleasure is in full harmony and balance of the flavors – if any of the components sticks out or is absent, this is where the pleasure instantly stops. Of course, the balance is a key element of any wine, but some of the wines can get away with too much acidity or too much oak and still give you pleasure, including a generic Chardonnay. But the harmony and balance are what differentiate a great Chardonnay from an average one.
I also love to use great Chardonnay as a reference point. For example, I compared my 2022 wine of the year, 2020 Abadia Retuerta L’Domaine from Ribera Del Duero, a Sauvignon Blanc-based blend, with Chablis. Chardonnay was also my analogy for the 2024 wine of the year, 2020 Mariasy Tokaji Furmint from Hungary, made from Furmint. And a few weeks ago, I had Grande Rocim White from Alentejo in Portugal (I have yet to write about it), made from 100% Portuguese native Arinto grape, which would successfully compete with Puligny-Montrachet I never had.
The wine I opened to celebrate Chardonnay Day was 2022 Maison Matisco Les Buis Saint-Véran AOC (13% ABV), one of my recent WTSO finds. The wine had a beautiful light golden color, and had a perfect Chardonnay profile as I described above – apples, vanilla, a distant hint of honey and butter (the last two might be just my imagination). The same profile continued on the palate, with the addition of the lemon. The wine initially had a slightly bitter aftertaste, which dissipated after a few hours. This wine will not make a list of great Chardonnays here at Talk-a-Vino, but I will be happy to open it any time I crave a Chard.
There, I told you my story. How did you celebrate Chardonnay Day?
Grape Holidays 2025
There are holidays, and then there are grape holidays.
Not that we need an extra reason to open a bottle of wine, but hey – life is worth celebrating, so if we don’t need a reason and nevertheless, we have a reason – there is nothing wrong with it, isn’t?
Every year, I celebrate a few of the grape holidays and miss most of them. For 2025, I decided to add the grape holidays list on this blog so there will always be an easy reference to the important events 🙂 Yes, I’m well aware that 1/3 of the year 2025 is already gone, but still, here is the Grape Holidays list starting from the beginning of 2025, just for the sake of completeness:
February 1 - International Furmint Day
February 16 - International Syrah Day
March 3 - International Mulled Wine Day
March 13 - International Riesling Day
March 21 - World Vermouth Day
April 14 - Tannat Day
April 17 - World Malbec Day
April 27 - World Marselan Day
May 2 - International Sauvignon Blanc Day. Celebrated on the first Friday of May
May 3 - International Baga Day. Celebrated every 1st Saturday of May.
May 9 - World Moscato Day
May 17 - Pinot Grigio Day
May 22 - International Chardonnay Day - Celebrated on the Thursday before Memorial Day (US) at the end of May
June 13 - World Verdejo Day. Celebrated on the second Friday of June
June 14 - Drink Chenin Blanc Day
June 21 - World Lambrusco Day
July 12 - International Cava Day
August 1 – World Albariño Day
August 13 - International Prosecco Day
August 18 - International Pinot Noir Day
September 4- International Cabernet Sauvignon Day – Celebrated on the first Thursday of September
September 5 - National Chianti Day – Celebrated on the first Friday of September
September 10 - National Port Wine Day
September 19 - International Grenache Day - Celebrated on the third Friday of September
October 5 – World Vranec Day
October 6 – Orange Wine Day
October 11 - International Pinotage Day
October 14 – Prokupac Day
October 24 - World Champagne Day - Celebrated on the fourth Friday of October
October 26 - International Mavrud Day
October 30 - International Carignan Day - Celebrated on the last Thursday in October
November 1 - International Xinomavro Day
November 7 - International Merlot Day
November 13 - International Tempranillo Day - Celebrated on the second Thursday of November
November 15 – Amphora Wine Day
November 20 - Beaujolais Nouveau Day - Celebrated on the third Thursday of November
November 24 - International Carménère Day
December 1 – International Maratheftiko Day
December 4 - International Cabernet Franc Day
December 10 - World Aszú Day
December 16 - Pinot Meunier Day
Here you go, my friends. Now you know, and now you have to celebrate grape holidays or else.
And if I’m missing any of the grape holidays, please leave a comment so I can add them.
Next up – International Sauvignon Blanc celebration! Get ready!
Celebrate Marselan!
Source: Wikipedia
Have you heard of Marselan?
There is a good chance you never have, and nobody can blame you.
Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, created by Professor Peter Truel in Languedoc near the French coastal town of Marseillan, which gave Marselan its name. Marselan is a blue-skinned late-ripening variety that produces large clusters of small berries, leading to a high skin-to-juice ratio in winemaking. Marselan prefers dry soil and a hot climate, and it has strong disease resistance to botrytis bunch rot, powdery mildew, and other grape maladies.
The grape was created in 1961, but its real fame came to the grape only in the 21st century. In 2001, the grape made it to China as an experiment. From the initial planting of less than 7 acres, as of 2024, Marcelan occupied more than 10,000 acres, second only to Languedoc, and it became one of the most important grape varieties in China. Maselan in China is often compared to Malbec in Argentina and Carmenere in Chile, having a real chance to become a signature country grape.
Marselan today grows and is used in winemaking in France, China, Israel, Bolivia, Uruguay, Italy, Spain, and other countries. Marselan is typically used as a blending grape, but since 2002, single-varietal Marselan wine has been produced, first in France and now around the world. 259 Marselan wines from 18 regions in 11 countries competed in the first Marselan competition in 2023 in China.
Today, April 27th, on the birthday of Professor Truel, we are celebrating Marselan Day. It is a given that I can’t show a collage of Marselan wines I tried, as I only have 2 wines with Marselan mentioned on the blog. Nevertheless, I would like to share a few interesting tidbits with you.
First, a detailed write up about a delicious Marselan discovery of this year – Gran Marselan wine I had an opportunity to play with. Next is an article from Decanter magazine, profiling some of the latest Marselan wines well worth your attention. And here is a good article about Marselan’s success in China.
Marselan has a bright future ahead of it, and not just as a blending grape, but as a star of its own.
Marselan wines are still difficult to find, but do yourself a favor and see if you can find and experience one, it will be worth the effort.
Until the next grape holiday (Sauvignon Blanc Day is coming up on May 2nd) – cheers!
Passion and Pinot Updates: Bells Up Winery 2025
When I was planning blind Pinot Noir tasting with friends, I reached out to some of the old friends in Oregon to see if I could include some of the Oregon Pinot Noir in that blind tasting. Sara and Dave Specter of “micro-boutique, un-domaine” Bells Up Winery graciously agreed to participate and sent me three samples of their latest Pinot Noir releases.
Bells Up was one of the 19 wineries profiled in the Stories of Passion and Pinot series, probably the youngest one, founded in 2013. Youngest or not, but Bells Up might be one of the most adventurous, going well past traditional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with their plantings of Schioppettino and Seyval Blanc. You can learn more about the winery and its vision from the original interview I did with Dave in 2019, and an update after I visited the winery in 2021.
When we spoke about the wines (it was the end of last year, 2024), I also wanted to have a short mini-interview with Dave – it is a bit less timely right now, but hey, 2025 is still young. Here is our short (virtual) conversation:
[TaV]: How was the 2024 vintage? What should we expect from the 2024 wines when they will be released?
[DS]: Well, we’re still in the very early stages of evaluating the 2024 vintage so it’s hard to tell at this stage but we have every reason to be optimistic. We had one of our better growing seasons in some time – warmer than usual early in the season but then settling into a more temperate pattern the rest of the way. We harvested in late September and early October which is right on schedule and the sugars and acids were pretty much on the money. The 2024 vintage whites will be released in the spring of 2025 and the reds will be released (most likely) in 2026 and 2027.
[TaV]: What was Bells Up’s best moment of 2024?
[DS]: Our best moment was getting to see the results from the “proof of concept” 2023 harvest of our young Schioppettino planting. For only third leaf vines, we’re seeing wonderful flavor development with the distinctive Italian grape licorice elements present. We are now confident that our first commercial vintage in 2024 will be a great addition to our portfolio.
[TaV]: By the same token, what was the worst?
[DS]: The entire industry was hit hard by a decrease in visitorship to the area in 2024, and wine sales suffered accordingly. This was the result of many factors and ultimately resulted in a difficult year for our business.
[TaV]: What are you looking forward to in 2025?
[DS]: We will have our first estate Pinot Blanc release in 2025! We will also see the return of our sparkling Seyval Blanc (Joy) which was so popular in its first release back in 2023. And we are also hoping that we see visitorship recover as travel patterns return to normal after the pandemic.
And then there were wines.
I got three sample bottles, out of which one, Jupiter Pinot Noir, was included in the blind tasting (based on Sara’s recommendation). Here are the notes for all three wines, with the first one written a bit differently as it is based on the notes taken during the blind tasting.
2021 Bells Up Jupiter Pinot Noir Estate Chehalem Mountains AVA (13.5% ABV, $50, 58.8% heritage clone Pommard, 25.8% Dijon clone 667 (8-year old vines), 15.4% Dijon clone 113 (6-year old vines), 154 cases produced)
New World (have no idea what I was thinking, I guess something outside of Europe), Vintage: 2021. Cherries, lots of cherries, raspberries, tart cherries on the palate, good balance, nice.
Drinkability: 8
2021 Bells Up Maestro Reserve Pinot Noir Estate Chehalem Mountains AVA (13.3% ABV, $56, 50% Dijon clone 943, 27.8% 667, 22.2% 113; 77 cases produced, club members exclusive)
Dark garnet
Smoke, earthy notes, dark fruit, hint of cherries
Sweet and tart cherries both, iodine, crisp acidity, medium body, a bit of medicinal finish
Drinkability: 8-
2021 Bells Up Titan Pinot Noir Willamette Valley AVA (13.8% ABV, $46, 22.3% 8-year-old Pommard Bells Up’s estate, 38.8% Dijon Clones 115 and 38.8% 777, MonksGate Vineyard’s in Yamhill-Carlton AVA, 19- and 20-year-old vines respectively; 12 months in French oak, 27% new; 111 cases produced)
Garnet
A hint of bell pepper, eucalyptus, raspberries
Black plums, cherries, medium palate weight, medium body, good acidity on the finish. Needs food.
Drinkability: 7+/8-
Here we are – a quick Bells Up winery update and the notes for three of their latest Pinot Noir releases.
Until next time…
This post is a part of the Stories of Passion and Pinot series – click the link for more stories…
Daily Glass: Beautiful Israeli Wines
Let’s start with a few questions.
First: what do you like more – selecting the wine to be opened or just drinking the wine? Feel free to dismiss this question as “stupid” and ask for the next. But in my world, before the bottle is brought to the table to be opened, I take special pleasure in looking for the right bottle for the occasion. Who are the people you will be sharing the wine with? What type of wine do they like? Maybe more importantly, what wines do they not like? What is the actual occasion? These are all important questions to consider – the wine has to bring pleasure, and as a self-designated “wine person”, it is your job to ensure that it will.
The second question is also not very difficult: how do you select the wine? So you know the occasion, you probably have an idea of what type of wine you would like to bring (sparkling, red, white, Rosé, dessert, all of the above), but how do you decide on the exact wine to bring? Even if you decided that you will bring a Pinot Noir, there are tens/hundreds/more choices from all different regions, different wineries, different vintages. You can always grab the bottle with the label that speaks to you in a given moment, but sometimes, you want to go a little deeper.
Let’s go a little deeper.
The occasion was a Shabbat dinner. The house we were visiting is not ultra-religious, so technically, we could bring any wine. At the same time, I love Israeli wines, but drink them typically only during the Jewish holidays, so this was an opportunity to enjoy a bottle of an Israeli wine on a regular Friday, and I couldn’t let it pass.
Israeli wines are tricky – the inexpensive ones are not always good (chances of finding good Rioja or Côte du Rhone on the budget are a lot higher than an Israeli wine), and the expensive ones are … expensive and also not easy to find. Yes, I would love to bring Domaine du Castel or Yatir Forest, but I was not ready to spend that much, and again, finding those wines is a challenge.
So that was my attempt to select wine by the region and the winery. My next idea – let’s try a specific winemaker.
The brain’s work is mysterious. Of course, I’m not a brain scientist, whatever such a person should be called. But I’m not sure even a “brain scientist” can explain how information is processed by our brain to become memorable and impactful. Some years ago, I heard the name – Ido Lewinsohn, the garagiste winemaker from Tel Aviv, founder of the first “cult” Israeli winery. His wines were impossible to find – my friends in Israel managed to get me a bottle of his Garage de Papa Rouge, which I kept for a long time and then finally drank at some point (the wine was good, but I never wrote about it). Maybe it was the word “cult” that made such a lasting impression, but the name Ido Lewinsohn got stuck in my head.
While searching for a worthy wine for the dinner, I decided to search for the “Lewinsohn” too – what if his wines are now imported into the US? I didn’t find Garage de Papa wines, but to my delight, I discovered that after getting his Master of Wine degree (the second person in Israel to do so!), Ido is now working as the winemaker at Barkan and Segal wineries. Another search on the KosherWine.com website and voila – I got my dilemma solved – Segal wine it is!
I got four bottles of Segal wines—two to bring for dinner and two to celebrate the Passover holiday.
First, 2019 Segal Native Marawi Single Vineyard Judean Hills (11% ABV, $24.49, Marawi grape). Six years old white wine can be a challenge in itself – but this wine was not. The wine had a beautiful golden color, an intense nose of the whitestone fruit, which followed by the plump, roll-of-your-tongue nectar with explicit notes of white plums and cherry plums, fresh, intense, elegant, with a whiff of honey and cleansing acidity. The wine was a “crowd-pleaser” and disappeared in no time (Drinkability: 8+). In a blind tasting, my guess would be Marsanne/Roussane, and I would be very surprised to learn that I was wrong. An extra bonus – a rare grape I never had before.
Our second wine of the evening was 2021 Segal Petit Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee (13.5% ABV, $48.99). Dark garnet color, a restrained nose with a hint of black currant and explicit minerality. On the palate, the wine was old world in style, more of a young Bordeaux, crisp, fresh, edgy, with a good core of dark fruit and noticeable but balanced tannins. Excellent minerality, excellent acidity, excellent balance. In one word, superb. Second word – elegant. ( Drinkability: 8+).
Then there was a holiday Passover dinner, where another two bottles went into a play. These were as classic as they get – a Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
2023 Segal Special Reserve Chardonnay Galilee (12.5% ABV, $19.99) was a perfect, classic, middle-of-the-road Chardonnay. Straw pale color, apples on the nose, apples with a hint of vanilla and a touch of Meyer’s lemon on the palate, round, clean, fresh, good acidity, an excellent balance. This was not a Chardonnay to knock your socks off, but this was a Chardonnay I would be happy to drink on any occasion. (Drinkability: 8)
Last but not least, 2023 Segal Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee (12.5% ABV, $20.99). Dark ruby color, a hint of black currant on the nose. The palate was interesting, offering a touch of warm cinnamon and baking spices woven around a layer of plump dark fruit. The wine had all the traits of Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon, which usually has this warm cinnamon and spices – I also experienced a very similar taste profile with some of the Chinon Cabernet Franc. I don’t know if this is a terroir or if this is a specific Cabernet clone, but the resemblance was well noticeable. (Drinkability: 8- )
There you are, my friends. Four beautiful wines from Israel, perfect for any occasion, or any special day, especially those whose name ends with a “y”.
How do you select your wines? Do you have any favorite Israeli wines?
Celebrate Malbec! 2025 Edition
Do you know what I enjoy almost as much as sharing wine? Sharing pictures!
Today is World Malbec Day, where we celebrate a French grape called Malbec, or rather, Cot in its native Cahors region, which became a real star in Argentina. As bold a statement as it would be, Malbec made a world star wine producer out of Argentina, and Argentina made Malbec a world star grape.
As I mentioned before, the main reason for this post is to share my updated picture collage of some of my Malbec experiences. Here we go:
The last time I posted Malbec collage was 6 years ago, in 2019, you can find it here. Since then, in a true testament to the worldwide phenomenon of Malbec, I added a number of great Malbec experiences – organic Malbecs from Domain Bousquet in Argentina, a Little Fuck Malbec from Cahors in France, Flora Springs Ghost Winery Malbec from Napa Valley, Neyen Espíritu de Apalta Malbec from Chile, another Malbec from Argentina, Mythic, and I’m sure many more that I don’t even remember. Good Malbec is delicious, and we can leave it at that.
Don’t forget to celebrate Malbec. Even if you miss this special celebration, any day is a good day to drink Malbec. Oh yes, and if you have a favorite Malbec (or five), please share it in the comments!
Until the next grape holiday – cheers!
Daily Glass: Double Lucky, Coast to Coast
Wine is meant for sharing.
How do you share the wine? Well, that depends.
Of course, everyone knows the best way. Get together around the table. Open the wine. Pour into glasses. Sip, savor, enjoy the conversation.
This is the best way. But sometimes, it is not the easiest way. For example, when one person lives on the East Coast and another on the West Coast. What is the best way to share the wine then? Yes, nowadays, it is easy to speak with your friends no matter where they are – and not only talk, but you can see each other too, that’s a given. But still, how do you share the wine?
If you are lucky, you both might have the same bottle of wine. And you can be even double-lucky – especially if you have the right bottle, such as No Girls Double Lucky #8.
Talking about all the luck(s), there are a few here at play. Both my friend Wendy and I had the same bottle of wine available to us. Moreover, we had the bottle from the same vintage – 2019. Now, barring all the bottle variations, we were basically sharing the exact same bottle of wine – never mind 2,500 miles apart, as Wendy lives in Seattle.
Double Lucky wine was released during the pandemic, in 2021, and I was lucky enough not only to get a bottle of the inaugural 2017 vintage (all people on the No Girls mailing list received a bottle of Double Lucky for free), but also to attend a zoom call with Christophe Baron, the creator and owner of Cayuse wines and of the Cayuse “side branches” such as No Girls, Horsepower and others, and Elizabeth Bourcier, the winemaker – you can find my detailed impressions here. If you will read that post, you will find out that I was rather torn on the 2017 vintage.
2018 Double Lucky fared a lot better in my book, and it even made it to the Top Two Dozen of 2022 as wine number 19. And now, the 2019.
The 2019 No Girls Double Lucky #8 Walla Walla Valley (13.7% ABV, 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Tempranillo, 21 months in neutral French oak) had a playful color, going from dark garnet to the crimson red, depending on the lighting. On the nose, on the first whiff, you can only talk about the rocks – the wine has a really profound minerality. Next, there is a hint of barnyard – just enough for those who like it, and we managed to agree with Wendy that we both love that little (or even not so little) funk on the nose – it makes the wine all the better (don’t talk to me about Brett). And then there were some cherries also present on the nose.
On the palate, the wine was all so interesting. We spoke with Wen for about 2 hours (wines, politics, families, popcorn, more wines – you know, just two friends catching up), and during these 2 hours, the wine kept changing. At first, the wine showed green bite, like chewing on the little branches of the wood (Elizabeth Bourcier is a big fan of whole cluster fermentation, and while it sounds wonderful, every time I hear the term, I almost cringe). After about 20 minutes, the green notes were gone, and the wine just had sweet cherries, olive tapenade, and rocks, lots of rocks. About an hour later, taking another sip, I suddenly discovered my beloved pepper! I love peppery notes of Syrah, this is an absolute hallmark in my book, so the wine definitely made me happy – and of course, it evoked memories of Michel Chapoutier Mathilda Shiraz, one of the most peppery Syrah renditions I ever tasted.
All in all, it was a great evening of wine and conversation – a double lucky we might even say, pun intended.
Never mind the distance – open a bottle and call your friends.
Until the next time – cheers!
Latest Wine News and Updates
There is something always happening in the world of wine. When we hear the word “wine”, of course, we get an instant image of the liquid in the glass. But before and after that liquid in the glass, the world of wine is a business world, and as with any other business, something is always happening in the wine business. Let’s take a look at some of the latest, “hot off the press” developments in the wine world.
Tariffs can’t stop the wine
It is nice to think of wine as something divine and poetic, but at the end of the day, wine has to be paid for, just like cars, TVs, and steaks. For things we pay for, the scary word of the day is “tariff” – we can’t just escape the reality of our lives. The US government floated the idea of setting the tariffs for all European wines at 200%, and that is a scary thought for winemakers and wine consumers alike. Some of the winemakers want to face this challenge head-on – and thus, venerable Champagne houses Dom Pérignon and Krug just announced that they will start production of their famed Champagnes in the US, which will allow them to avoid tariffs altogether. The information is scarce and protected by strong NDAs, but based on anonymous social media leaks, both houses entered into agreements with undisclosed wineries in Oregon to source the fruit and assist in the production of the sparkling wines. Would they be able to call them Champagne? This is the question of the year, of course. I’m sure we will learn more as the story unfolds. Currently, it is expected that both houses will be able to proudly offer “made in USA” Krug and Dom Perignon as early as the 2027 vintage.
Chateau Latour 1982 without alcohol? You got it
It seems that alcohol-free wine is a big trend (not for me, but hey, it is a free world, right?). Until now, the choices of alcohol-free wines had been limited to specifically produced non-vintage wines of unknown pedigree. This is about to change, all thanks to the company that already once revolutionized fine wine consumption. Coravin just announced a new wine preservation system, which not only lets you sip your prized First Growth over many years, but also allows you to remove the alcohol from the wine while it’s been poured! Think about your underage kids being able to enjoy the legendary wines together with the adults at the dinner table. Or even oneself, now being able to consume an unlimited amount of the elixir and then drive with no problems at all. This new Coravin wine preservation system, called Drink Freely, is priced at $899, and it is expected to hit the store shelves before Christmas of 2025. You can visit the Coravin website to sign up for the email updates for the early availability of Drink Freely.
Wine and health
I’m sure you noticed that wine has been assaulted as of late with all the baseless claims about the dangers of wine consumption to your health. Despite all the wealth of the previous research, talking about the benefits of moderate wine consumption, it seems that beating wine down became a favorite pastime of many medical “scholars.” The World Health Organization (WHO) has been one of the staunch critics of wine consumption and alcohol in general. In a stunning reversal of events, the WHO published the results of a 10-year-long lifestyle study, concluding that moderate wine consumption, up to 2 glasses of wine per day, had shown improved mental capacity, reduced stress, and boosted immune system defences among experiement’s subjects, compared with the control group. The findings were so profound that the WHO Director-General, Dr. Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, called the wine “an elixir of life” in his quote. Again, this was quite an unexpected endorsement, but who can argue with success?!
Vines under water
Rising sea levels are definitely a concern for many wineries, especially those located in the coastal areas around the world. What will happen if the vineyards go underwater? What if it is possible to successfully grow grapes in the vineyards at least partially, or potentially, completely submerged in water? The University of the Basque Country in Spain teamed up with famed UC Davis in California and several wineries in the Rias Baixas area to research the ability of vines to thrive under water. The first vineyards had been planted in the sea basin near Vigo in Rías Baixas, taking care of protecting young vines from the sea currents and fish. Obviously, Albariño was the first choice of the grape variety to plant, but a number of other Mediterranean grape varieties are also in the play. It is too early to talk about the results, as the project has been going for only 3 years, with the first mentions just leaking into the press, but the chief project scientist, Dr. Maximilian Grape-Seedling, says the early results are encouraging. We are still 3-4 years away from any commercial availability, but we can definitely share the hope for the future of the wine industry.
The wine crypto
Last but not least – we just learned of the first ever wine foray into the world of cryptocurrency. Loïc Pasquet, the winemaker behind the most expensive Bordeaux wine, Liber Pater ($30,000 per bottle upon release), just announced his brand new crypto, $Liber. $Liber will be based on the Ethereum blockchain and will be released at $10,000 a piece, with only 10,000 coins total planned for circulation. The new crypto will be backed by the 2020 vintage of Liber Pater, with 5,000 bottles set aside as collateral for the new cryptocurrency. It will be first available for sale on May 1st, and the demand for the hotly anticipated coin already exceeds 3 times the expected total supply. Each new $Liber owner will receive a 50 ml bottle of 2015 Liber Pater and the certificate of ownership signed by Loïc Pasquet himself. $Liber will be available on all major crypto exchanges such as Coinbase, Robinhood, and others.
And we are done here – all the latest wine news and updates.
Until the next time – cheers!
Brunello di Montalcino 2020: Captivating, Bright, Succulent
Benvenutto Brunello is one of my favorite wine tasting to attend. If you like Italian wines, Brunello needs no introduction (and if you don’t, I’m not sure we can be friends) – one of the 3 big Bs of Italian winemaking – Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello.
Brunello is an epitome of the expression of the best known Italian red grape – Sangiovese. The Sangiovese growing in the Brunello di Montalcino proper is considered a clone – Sangiovese Grosso, but it is a Sangiovese nevertheless.
Brunello de Montalcino appellation is almost square, all located around the hill crowned with the town of Montalcino, with vineyards densely occupying 5,189 acres and located at various altitudes over a range of different soils. Different microclimate conditions, terroirs, guarantee a great diversity of styles among 200 or so producers in Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Another interesting appellation within Brunello proper is Rosso di Montalcino DOC, occupying 2,124 acres (after expansion in 2020) of dedicated vineyards (Rosso DOC vineyards are only used for production of Rosso di Montalcino DOC). Take a look at this wonderful video providing an excellent overview of the Brunello di Montalcino region:
Gabrielle Gorelli, MW, led our highly informative Brunello Masterclass, providing a detailed overview of the 2020 vintage and the changes in vintage assessment that just went into effect.
The 2020 was a pivotal vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. Not because of the Brunello 2020 wines per se, but because of the fundamental changes made in assessment of the 2020 vintage and all future vintages to come.
Until 2020, Brunello di Montalcino vintages had quality assessment specified with the stars (from 1 to 5 stars) and a short slogan characterizing the vintage. For example, the 2014 vintage had a rating of 3 stars and was called “Grace under pressure”. 2015 had a rating of 5 stars, and it was called “Power and Purity”; the 2016 vintage was also rated 5 stars and called “Finesse and depth”.
The 2020 Brunello vintage marks the end of the star ratings – this is the last vintage awarded a star rating (5 stars, in case you are wondering). Instead, Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino is introducing Brunello Forma, which will only provide a verbal description of the vintage moving forward.
A significant amount of effort went into the creation of the new system. 39 weather stations were installed around the region to collect the microclimate data. Historical data of the past 12 years were collected and a significant number of samples from the past vintages were blind tasted to come up with the set of data which will allow to make vintage assessment more scientific, I guess.
To come up with the vintage verbal assessment, a panel of industry experts (masters of wine, wine distributors, wine writers) ran extensive tasting of the 2020 wines, then collected and processed a large number of descriptors used by the panel members to crystallize the 2020 Brunello vintage description into these three words:
Captivating, Bright, Succulent
As an engineer at heart, I’m not a fan of words. Simple numerical (3 stars, 92) or verbal (fair, good, very good) rating quickly gives me everything I need to know about the vintage in general – captivating or succulent doesn’t set my expectations about a given wine – not now, and especially, not in the future.
However, as it was explained later on during the dinner with Giacomo Bartolommeo, Brunello winemaker at Caprili, the star ratings were hurting the wineries, as wine buyers preferred to ignore wines from 3-star vintages and focus on acquiring better-rated vintages, without much regard to the qualities of the particular wine. Moving to verbal descriptors eliminates the opportunity for a quick rating-based decision. Well, winemakers are in the business of selling their wines, so it is not my place to complain or judge.
Then, of course, there were wines. I have to say that in the traditional Italian style (please take no offence), the tasting order was changed by our presenter, Gabrielle Gorelli, MW, compared to the order written on the notes page. However, I have to say that our tasting order was definitely the right one, showing progression from very tight and lean wines to wines that were softer and more approachable now. I attended both seminars, so below are my notes:
Morning Seminar
Col D’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Ruby Color
Interesting nose, sapidity, earthy undertones, leather
Tart is the first sensation; tart cherries, expressive tannins, crisp acidity
Pian Delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (36 months in Slavonian oak)
Dark ruby color
Sweet cherries, perfumy, very playful
Not as tart as the previous wine, but has very explicit tannins, good acidity, but lacking fruit, very lean
Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (vineyards planted on the oldest soils, 3 years in big oak barrels)
Garnet color
Sweet tobacco, cherries, plums, attractive
Initially showed beautiful cherries, the tartness kicked in, followed by very dry finish with big but well integrated tannins
Marchesi Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (single vineyard, aged in big casks)
Garnet color
Beautiful nose, elegant, perfumy, with a touch of sweet cherries.
Tart cherries on the palate, herbs, tart finish with well pronounced tannings.
San Polo Podernovi Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in light-toast 40hl casks)
Garnet color with bright reddish hues
Beautiful nose, elegant, perfumy, sweet cherries, eucalyptus.
Tart cherries, tannins are overwhelming, but the most elegant finish so far.
Probably can be enjoyed now after decanting
La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark Garnet
Playful, bright red fruit, cherries, herbs, sweet oak.
Palate is a tad bitter, strange, had to swallow the wine instead of spitting to establish that it was not corked. Overall, not bad, but the nose is way better than the palate.
Collematoni Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark ruby color, beautiful
Beautiful nose, sweet fruit, cherries, sage, beautiful.
The best palate so far – round, with sweet and tart cherries, elegant, delicious.
8+
2020 Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (38 months in oak)
Dark garnet
Beautiful, open, sweet fruit, sweet cherries, pencil shavings.
Tart cherries, explicit balsamic notes, succulent, mouthwatering, round, delicious, beautiful, superb.
8+
My favorite two wines of the morning seminar:
Afternoon seminar
Sanlorenzo Brunellodi Montalcino 2020 (aged in oak for about 3 years)
Garnet color
Beautiful, sweet fruit, cherries, dark undertones, earthiness.
Intense fruit quickly dissipates into very tart, very high expression tannins and acidity on the finish. Super-lean.
Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark garnet
Interesting nose, maybe racy is a good descriptor? Garrigue, some cherries show up a bit later.
Lots of sweet cherries which instantly disappear, but the finish is a bit less tart than the previous wine.
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Very dark, practically black, darkest of the tasting so far
The nose is restrained, earthy and herbaceous
Sweet cherries, sweet oak, then tart, acidic, and ultra-tannic on the finish, very dry
Sassodisole Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (minimum 24 months in oak)
Dark Garnet
Cherries, sage, perfume, nice and open
Tart cherries, leather, well-integrated tannins
So far, the most approachable wine of the tasting
Camigliano Paesaggio Inatteso Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in oak barrels, 10 months in cement tanks after)
Bright ruby
Underbrush, a hint of smoke
Tart cherries, fresh cleansing acidity, acidic finish with some tannins, not bad.
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in Slovenian oak casks of different capacities)
Dark garnet
Nice, inviting, round, dark fruit, a touch of crushed rocks.
Sweet cherries, crunchy and succulent, great energy, cherries on the finish, delicious.
8+, the best of the second seminar
Cortonesi Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (24 months in oak)
Dark garnet, almost black, with bright hues
Amazing nose. Cherries that magically pull you in.
Fish and powerful opening on the palate, but bitter tannins set in.
Best nose of both tastings, 9-/9. Palate is not great right now – 7+
Banfi Poggio Alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (24+ months in French oak)
Dark garnet with bright hues
Nice, open nose with lots of fresh herbs – sage, thyme.
Sweet dark fruit on the palate initially, then the palate is quickly shut down in front of the mouth. Again, if you swallow this wine instead of spitting, the wine is a lot more generous. Succulent is a perfect descriptor for such a wine. 8+
Best wines of the second seminar:
In addition to the seminars, there was tasting on the “main floor”. There were more of the excellent 2020 Brunellos, such as San Felice, Caprili, or Corte Pavone. There were also many of the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines, which were simply outstanding. Additionally, 2023 Rosso di Montalcino were presented by almost all participating wineries and were excellent across the board.
My Brunello deep immersion didn’t stop there. After the event was over, we went for dinner with John Fodera and Giacomo Bartolommei, the winemaker at Caprili, to the wonderful Italian New York restaurant Zero Otto Nove, famous not only for genuine Italian food but for the amazing wine list. There, Giacomo found 2001 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino, which we ordered.
Wow, what a pleasure it was. Perfumy nose of succulent cherries, anis, eucalyptus. You can’t stop smelling the wine, you don’t even think of drinking it for a few minutes. Then you take a careful sip and experience an explosion of flavor with succulent cherries, balscami vinegar, iodine, and magic that only an Italian wine with age can offer. The experience was not identical to 1999 Soldera, but it was pretty darn close.
And now my Brunello report is complete. The 2020 vintage offers beautiful aromatics; it is approachable, it is succulent, it is captivating. Let’s raise the glass to the new era in Brunello and more tasty Brunello wines for us. Cheers!
2022 UGCB Vintage Preview – Power and Elegance
About a month ago, I attended the Union de Grand Crus de Bordeaux (UCBG) event introducing the Bordeaux 2022 vintage. UCBG is a marketing organization created in 1973 with the goal of promoting Bordeaux Grand Cru wines around the world. Today, UCBG comprises 132 Grand Cru Châteaux (wineries) in Bordeaux and runs about 80 marketing events per year, attracting more than 40,000 wine professionals.
UCBG vintage introduction event offers a great opportunity to have an early look into the latest vintage, taste lots of great wines and talk to the winemakers.
Speaking with the winemakers, my main question was: So, how was the vintage? Based on what I heard, it seems that 2022 was an excellent vintage with even growing conditions, with rains mostly in the early stages and then reasonably hot and dry conditions all the way through the harvest, delivering powerful, concentrated fruit with ample acidity. Hence, the descriptor I’m using for this vintage is Power and Elegance.
I have to tell you that I enjoyed most of the wines across the board. I didn’t have any OMG moment, but lots of wines showed very consistently, many of them ready to drink even now.
I didn’t take any detailed notes. Instead, I took pictures of the wines I liked, and now I would simply like to share the list of my favorite wines from this 2022 Bordeaux Grand Cru tasting.
Last year, I wrote about the 2021 Bordeaux Grand Cru vintage, so this year, I decided to mark the wines I liked last year with a star. This way, maybe I can identify my “perennial” preferences 🙂 – will see.
Here you are – my favorite 2022 Grand Cru Bordeaux wines, sorted by region:
Pessac-Léognan (the only Grand Cru region in Bordeaux producing both white and red wines).
2022 Château Carbonnieux Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Château de Fiuzal Blanc Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Château de Fiuzal Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Haut-Bailly Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château La Louvière Blanc Pessac-Léognan
Apparently, Chateau Lascombes went back to the old label – as you can see in this picture
Margaux
2022 Château Lascombes Margaux
2022 Château Malescot St. Exupéry Margaux
2022 Château Desmirail Margaux
2022 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux*
Pauillac
2022 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
2022 Château Pichon Baron Pauillac
2022 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac*
2022 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac*
2022 Château Duhart-Milon Pauillac*
2022 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse Pauillac*
2022 Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac*
2022 Château Haut-Batailley Pauillac*
2022 Château Batailley Pauillac*
2022 Château Lynch-Moussas Pauillac
Pomerol
2022 Château Beauregard Pomerol
2022 Château Petit-Village Pomerol*
2022 Château La Cabanne Pomerol
2022 Château Clinet Pomerol
2022 Château Le Gay Pomerol*
Saint-Émilion
2022 Chateau Valandraud Saint-Émilion*
2022 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion*
2022 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion
2022 Château Clos Fourtet Saint-Émilion
2022 Château Dassault Saint-Émilion
Saint-Estèphe
2022 Château Phélan Ségur Saint-Estèphe*
2022 Château Cos Labory Saint-Estèphe
2022 Château De Pez Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Julien
2022 Château Langoa Barton Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Léoville Barton Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Gloria Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien
Médoc
2022 Château Chase-Spleen Moulis en Médoc
2022 Château Citran Haut-Médoc
Sauternes – most of the producers I spoke with mentioned that they didn’t produce any Sauterns in 2021 – now it makes sense that last year most of the Sauternes producers were presenting different vintages…
2022 Château Guiraud Sauternes* (presented 2016 vintage last year, 2024)
2022 Château Doisy-Vérdines Sauternes* (presented 2018 vintage last year, 2024)
2022 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac Grand Vin de Sauternes
2022 Château Bastor-Lamontagne Sauternes* (presented 2016 vintage last year, 2024)
At the same tasting, I also had an unsanctioned (in many ways) treat. I noticed a winemaker in the corner talking to a few people and pouring wines that clearly didn’t belong to the tasting – 1982 and 1983 Boirceaux. I asked if I can have a taste too, and the wine – albeit grudgingly – made into my glass. The 1983 was quite drinkable – I didn’t catch the label, though. This 1982 Château Ramage La Batisse Haut-Médoc was mostly showing tertiary aromas, but hey, 1982 commands respect, so I can’t complain about having a taste of the Bordeaux from the legendary vintage.
There you are – the 2022 Bordeaux Grand Cru vintage. Well worth your attention. I’m sure it will age very well, but – you really don’t need for it to age. Crack the bottle open and enjoy!
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