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Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – The Adulthood
This post was supposed to be written last year… And then I almost made it in time for the Sauvignon Blanc day which was celebrated two days ago, on May 6th. Well, it is definitely a “better late than never” post, so for what it worth, let’s dive into it…
Today, friends, we are going to talk about Sauvignon Blanc.
If I would just “shoot from the hip”, Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t stand up as a grape with tremendous clout. Yes, it is one of the three major white wine grapes, along with Chardonnay and Riesling. And yet if there were a grape popularity contest, I would guess the championship would be decided between Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Of course, Pinot and Syrah would-be contenders, but I still think the former two are really at the top of wine lovers’ minds.
But let’s take a closer look at Sauvignon Blanc. There is hardly a wine region in the world where Sauvignon Blanc is not growing – no point in recounting them, Sauvignon Blanc is successfully growing everywhere. Sauvignon Blanc makes sparkling, still, and dessert/late harvest wines. It shines solo everywhere, and I’m not talking about “usual suspects” – Sancerre, New Zealand, Chile, California – but I’m talking about some of the world’s best producers. Screaming Eagle, the “cult of the cults” producer in Napa Valley makes Sauvignon Blanc which is more allocated than their Cabernet Sauvignon. Gaja Alteni di Brassica and Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, two of the 100% Sauvignon Blancs from Italy – I hope these names need no introduction. Let’s not forget the “Y” dry wine produced by Sauternes legend, Chateau d’Yquem. And then of course, there are countless blends… Sauvignon Blanc is everywhere.
Garces Silva vineyard at sunset credit Jody Hortons
Never mind the blends – let’s talk about pure Sauvignon Blanc wines. In my opinion, there are 4 main distinct styles of Sauvignon Blanc – as there are 4 main production regions that we already mentioned – Sancerre, New Zealand, Chile, and California (Napa Valley primarily). Maybe I should say “there used to be” 4 main styles… In the old days, Sancerre could be identified by aromas of cat pee and freshly cut grass. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc had a currant profile with currant leaves showing very well. It was popular to refer to the main component of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc profile as Gooseberry – I remember wine critics angrily saying that 90% of those who use the descriptor never tasted gooseberry in their lives. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc was similar to New Zealand, only shifting more towards grapefruit and a bit more sweetness in the profile. All three (Sancerre, New Zealand, and Chile) have changed today. And only Napa Valley style has not changed since the moment I tasted Napa Sauvignon Blanc for the first time – freshly cut grass is weaved together with bright but not sweet fruit – it is succulent, it is seductive, it is “in-your-face-beautiful-and-not-ashamed-of-it” – but we will have to talk about Napa Sauvignon Blanc some other day.
For a long time, New Zeland Sauvignon Blancs were consistent, with only Cloudy Bay standing apart from the rest, in a very delicious way. Then New Zealand decided to look for a new Sauvignon Blanc identity at some point, and I had an opportunity to taste this “new identity” at a tasting 8 years ago – it was an interesting experience, please read my notes if you are interested. I don’t know if the Chilean wine industry is closely following New Zealand, or if is this just a common trait of growing up, but this brings us to today’s subject – Chilean Sauvignon Blanc wines.
Compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon, the Chilean staple, Sauvignon Blanc is a very young grape. The first plantings of the Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile go back to the middle of the 19th century. The story of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile only started in the late 1970s. In 1978, there was a total of 8,154 acres of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile, accounting for 3.1% of all grape plantings (land under vine), mostly concentrated in Maule Valley. In the 1980s, new plantings of Sauvignon Blanc started to appear in the coastal regions of Casablanca, as well as Coquimbo, Valparaíso and O’Higgins. Coastal areas offered cooler weather, which brings herbal, citrussy expression with cut-through acidity in Sauvignon Blanc, contrasting with the areas with a continental climate, known to bring those grapefruit/tropical fruit notes I mentioned before as an old signature of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.
Ventisquero vineyard. Source: Viña Ventisquero
Going beyond just new cooler coastal areas, winemakers also started paying attention to the inherent grape qualities, by choosing to experiment with different clones. Of course, it is only fair to assume that clonal selection is not just Pinot Noir or Chardonnay prerogative – nevertheless, until I started working on this article, I had no idea that Sauvignon Blanc clones are even a thing. Turns out that Davis Clone (#1) is known to impart citrusy qualities, Sancerre Clone (#242) is more herbal and fruity, and then there are other popular French clones #107, #241, and #317.
Today, Sauvignon Blanc is the second most planted grape variety in Chile with 37,614 acres under vine in 2019, accounting for 40% of all white grapes plantings. Sauvignon Blanc is the second most widely produced wine in Chile, with 13% of all the Chilean wine production volume (based on 2021 data). The majority of the Sauvignon Blanc plantings are now located in the coastal regions. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has definitely grown up and it is ready to conquer the world.
To make the encounter with modern Chilean Sauvignon Blanc wines more practical, I had an opportunity to taste 8 Sauvignon Blanc wines, all coming from different producers and representing a number of regions. Here are my notes:
2021 Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection Leyda Valley DO (13.5% ABV, $15) – Montes is a very interesting winery in general – I had an opportunity to speak with the winemaker, and to learn more about the winery, you might want to read part 1 and part 2 of our conversation. Sauvignon Blanc grapes used in this wine, clones 1 and 242, were harvested from the vineyard located about 9 miles away from the Pacific Ocean on the western slopes of the Cordillera de la Costa mountain range.
Greenish pale
Inviting nose of fresh berries, grass, cassis leaves, some tropical fruit undertones, Napa SB-like presentation
Fresh, vibrant, tart, lean, lemon, a distant hint of freshly cut grass – truly refreshing on a hot day. Delicious.
8+, superb. Nicely complements creamy goat cheese.
2020 Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc Las Dichas Casablanca (13% ABV, $18) – Casas del Bosque is one of my favorite Chilean producers, I had a number of their wines on different occasions. The grape for this wine came from the vineyard located about 10 miles away from the Pacific Ocean, located on the mountain slopes.
Greenish pale
Freshly cut grass, green herbs, medium+ intensity, cassis leaves
Clean, light, good acidity, herbaceous profile, a touch of freshly cut grass. Lean.
8, excellent wine.
2021 Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc San Antonio Leyda (12.5% ABV, $18, organic grapes) – Viña Koyle is one of the well-known Chilean organic wine producers – I had an opportunity to try some of their wines last year while working on the Chilean wines sustainability story last year. The grapes for this wine, clones 1 and 242, came from the vineyard located 5 miles away from the Pacific Ocean. The wine was aged for 4 months on the lees to soften the sharp acidity – as you can see in my notes below, cut-through acidity was still acutely present.
Light golden
Very restrained, distant hint of peach and guava
High acidity, a touch of freshly cut grass which quickly dissipated just leaving a tart finish.
8-, will be interesting with seafood.
2020 Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley DO (14% ABV, $25) – the grapes were harvested at the vineyard located 8.5 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The wine was aged for 6 months on fine lees.
Greenish pale
A hint of freshly cut grass
Tropical fruit profile with a hint of sweetness and a touch of grass
8-, nice
2020 Matetic EQ Coastal Valle Hermoso Casablanca DO (13.5% ABV, $20) – grapes for this wine came from the biodynamic vineyard in the Rosario Valley in Casablanca, just 3.5 miles away from the ocean.
Straw pale
Steely undertones, a distant hint of gunflint, a touch of lemon
Whitestone fruit, herbs, a touch of cassis leaves, finish is round and gorgeous with a whiff of freshly cut grass. Reminiscent of the Italian renditions of Sauvignon Blanc such as Ornellaia and similar.
8+/9-
2019 Viña Ventisquero Grey Glacier Sauvignon Blanc Atacama Valley (13% ABV, $25) – yet another winery I’m well familiar with. Curious fact – founded in 1998, Viña Ventisquero is turning 25 this year. The vineyard where the grapes for this wine came from is located 15 miles away from the ocean and in the middle of the Atacama desert, taking full advantage of the poor soils. The wine was aged in foudres to enhance its texture and improve aging capabilities.
Greenish pale
A hint of gunflint, earthy undertones, Dias tang hint of lemon
A hint of gunflint, crisp, clean, refreshing, clean acidity on the finish, nice textural presence with some salinity – should be a great oyster chaser.
8/8+, excellent
2021 Viña Tabali Talinay Sauvignon Blanc Valle de Limarí DO (13% ABV, $24) – the vineyard, called Talinay, eponymous with the mountain ridge where it is planted, is located 7 miles away from the ocean.
Greenish white
Minerally-driven nose, limestone, lemon, medium+ intensity
Crisp, fresh, lemon, minerality, a tiny hint of fresh cut grass which comes and goes.
8, this wine is asking for food. I want oysters… works well with Boursin cheese
2020 Viña Morandé Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva Casablanca Valley DO (13.5% ABV, $20, 12 months aged in oak foudres and concrete eggs) – Pablo Morandé was a Casablanca Valley pioneer, who started planting Sauvignon Blanc in the 1990s. Grapes for this wine came from Belén vineyard is in the Lo Ovalle region, 14 miles away from the ocean.
Straw pale
Fresh-cut grass with herbal undertones and minerality, sapidity (almost “meaty” smell if it makes any sense)
Clean, crisp palate, freshly cut grass, lemon, crisp acidic finish.
8, elegant and balanced.
Here you are, my friends. Beautiful, minerality-driven, world-class wines, with their own unique and delicious expressions. As you can tell from my notes, the tasting was 8 out of 8 success, which is generally not given.
I don’t know what is your take on Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and when did you taste it last time – it is definitely worth revisiting. and get ready to be pleasantly surprised.
A Quick Trip To Chile
Have wine, will travel.
Today our destination is Chile. As our travel is virtual, we need to decide on the wine which will help us to get to Chile, hence the question to you – what wine would you associate with Chile?
If you would ask me this question about 20 years ago, my answer would be quick – Cabernet Sauvignon. Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has an unmistakable personality with a core of bell pepper – one sip, and you know where you are heading. Then, of course, you got the Carménère – the mysterious grape of Chile, long mistaken for Merlot – for a long time, Carménère was considered the ultimate Chilean grape, its unique flagship.
How about white wine? Again – 20 years ago, it would be a Chardonnay. Actually, that would be for no specific reason outside of remembering the shelves of the wine store full of Concha y Toro Chardonnay right by the entrance to the store – the most imported wine brand at a time. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, that Chardonnay was not particularly recognizable or memorable.
About 5 years ago, I started running into the wines which I never associated with Chile before. When I was offered to try the Chilean Pinot Noir, to say that I was skeptical would be an understatement – yep, I didn’t believe that Chilean Pinot Noir is a “thing”. Those first tastings made me believe that Pinot Noir is possible in Chile – but they were not at the level to really make me a convert. Yet.
And then, of course, Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – exuberant wine, nothing subtle about it – bright grapefruit, tons of freshly cut grass and crips lemon – very un-Sancerre. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is truly a polarizing wine, not any less than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – both categories have plenty of haters. But let me not get on the tangent here.
A few days ago I was offered a sample of Chilean wines I never heard of before – Kalfu, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. I’m always happy to expand my wine universe, so yes, please. This happened to be a wise decision.
Kalfu is a project by Viña Ventisquero, focused on showcasing cool climate coastal wines. In case you are wondering, as I did, what Kalfu means, here is what the website says: “Kalfu means “Blue” in Mapudungun, the language of the aboriginal Mapuche people of the region. It represents the color that provides a myriad of sensations: blue, like the Pacific Ocean’s intense blue; and blue, like the free sky, acting as an accomplice of and witness to the mysterious origins of life.”
Under Kalfu, there are three lines of wines, representing different regions – Molu from Casablanca Valley, Kuda from Leyda Valley, and Sumpai from Huasco – Atacama Desert, all three names representing different sea creatures. As the wines I tasted were from the Kuda line, let me tell you what Kuda means, again taking from the web site: “Kuda – in the case of the seahorse or hippocampus, the female lays her eggs and then the male takes care of them until the new seahorses emerge fully developed. Unlike other sea creatures, sea horses are delicate and unique, so they need to be cherished. ”
The wines were, in a word, beautiful. And maybe even surprising.
2018 Kalfu Kuda Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley (12.5% ABV, $19) was currant-forward. It didn’t really have the characteristic fresh grass, nor grapefruit – it had fresh black currant leaves and loads of Meyer lemon. It was a well present wine without going overboard, with a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. And yes, every sip wanted you to take another one. Drinkability: 8+
2017 Kalfu Kuda Pinot Noir Leyda Valley (14% ABV, $19) was even more surprising. For this wine, I can use two words. Frist would be finesse. The second word – Burgundian. The wine offered smoke, black cherries, violet, a touch of pencil shavings, good minerality – nothing over the top, none of the extra sweetness, but perfect, elegant balance. For $19, this is lots and lots of wine. Drinkability: 8+/9-
Here you are, my friends. Two beautiful wines worth seeking. And now I have my new favorite Pinot Noir which I will be happy to drink at any time. Where did you travel lately? Cheers!
One on One With Winemaker: Brett Jackson of Viña Valdivieso, Chile
Source: Viña Valdivieso
Today, sparkling wines are produced everywhere, and we are getting quite used to it. Sometimes, it comes almost to a surprise when we hear that particular producer doesn’t offer any sparkling, at least as part of the “winery special”. But this was not the case even 10 years ago, when the sources of the sparkling wine were much more limited.
When you are thinking about Chilean wines, well respected worldwide, what kind of wines come to mind first? I would bet you are thinking about Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, Sauvignon Blanc and may be some Chardonnay. I would also safely bet that you don’t think of Chile as a producer of the sparkling wines, right? So without asking google or reading ahead, can you pause for a second and think when could Sparkling wines be commercially made in Chile?
While spending time in France, Don Alberto Valdivieso fell in love with Champagne. As a matter of fact, he loved it so much that upon his return to Chile in 1879, he founded Champagne Valdivieso and became the first producer of the sparkling wines in Chile and the whole of South America.
Fast forward to today and Viña Valdivieso produces the full range of sparkling wines, including both Viña Valdivieso produces the full range of sparkling wines, including both méthode champenoise and Charmat, and the extensive line of still wines which includes a unique solera-method dry red called Caballo Loco. I had an opportunity to sit down (albeit, virtually) with the Viña Valdivieso Winemaker, Brett Jackson, and ask him a few bunch of questions – here is what transpired from our conversation:
[TaV]: I would guess that Viña Valdivieso first sparkling wines were made with the Traditional Method. When did the Viña Valdivieso start producing sparkling wines using Charmat method?
[VV]: Valdivieso started making sparkling wines from 1879, all the bottles in traditional method. Only from the eighties began the elaboration by Method Charmat
[TaV]: What is the oldest sparkling wine which can be found in your cellars? What was the oldest Viña Valdivieso sparkling wine you ever tried?
[VV]: For the earthquakes of 1985 and 2010, that affected our underground cava, we lost bottles from the early fifties to the present. We only recovered some bottles from 1996 onwards that are still preserved in our cellar.
[TaV]: Do you make any single vineyard sparkling wines? What about vintage sparklers?
[VV]: For Traditional method, we have single vineyard Valdivieso Blanc du Blanc made of 100 % Chardonnay and Valdivieso Blanc du Noir with 100% Pinot Noir
Since 2013, we started using the label vintage in Valdivieso Blanc du Blanc. Actually, the new portfolio sparkling for Champenoise Caballo Loco Grand Cru 2014 uses an exceptional vintage.
[TaV]: When you produce Traditional Method sparkling wines, do you follow the path of the French Champagne and try to achieve consistent “Chateau” taste profile? How many Vin Clairs your typical blend include? Do you use also reserve wines, and what would be the oldest you would use?
[VV]: We use different vintages to give consistency to our portfolio. Charmat Limited include 2 years at least in different percentage of varieties, blending, Traditional method we use Both of 1 vintage as well as several in blending. Currently, the use of expedition liquor for some 2014 bottles of traditional method is from 2011 vintage.
[TaV]: Do you use sustainable farming methods? What about organic – you do it now or have any plans?
[VV]: Our farming methods are sustainable, being certified with the Wines of Chile Sustainable code. We are working with a 15Ha organic vineyard in the south of Chile with some very exciting red varieties. Grenache, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Carmenere, Tannat, Carignan, Syrah, and Petit Syrah. The first wines from this vineyard should be appearing late 2018.
[TaV]: What was your most challenging vintage for the sparkling wines and why?
[VV]: 2012 and 2013 the most difficult, extremely challenging because of the huge amount quantity per hectare. We don´t have Traditional method these years, except Blanc du Blanc 2013, 100% chardonnay. The Chardonnay variety was the only one that excelled to maintain consistency in quality and longevity for its storage in bottles.
[TaV]: What was your most difficult vintage for the still wines and why?
[VV}: 2016, the most difficult, lots of rain during April. Chile lost around 30% of the harvest due to these rains. Extremely challenging conditions.
[TaV]: What were you favorite vintages for the still and sparkling wines?
[VV]: For still wines 2000 through to 2010 were exceptional with a string of outstanding vintages, 2001, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2010. I would give the edge to the 2005 vintage, great balance in the wines, maturity, acidity, and exceptional flavor.
For sparkling wines 2010, 2014, 2015, 2016. because of the balance of fresh maturity, big natural acidity, fresh fruity character . 2014 was the best, with the fruit from consolidated new areas for traditional method such as Biobio, Limarí, Itata, and new improves for charmat with vines so close to Andes mountains and Coastal range. 2014 is the first vintage for a new sparkling label called Caballo Loco Grand Cru Biobio Valley , Brut Nature and Blanc du Noir, currently available.
[TaV]: Today you produce still white wines from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Have you ever experimented with any other white varietals? Any plans to introduce any new Viña Valdivieso white wines?
[VV]: We do a small amount of Viognier. In the near future we will be launching Rousanne and Marsanne. Both look very promising with great potential.
[TaV]: What is the “Next Big White Grape” for Chile? Is there one?
[VV]: The “next big” is white wine. It is not easy to see as on an international scale, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay dominate to such an incredible extent.
[TaV]: Same question for the reds – is there “Next Big Red Grape” for the Chilean wines?
[VV]: For individuality and exceptional quality, the old vine Carignan from the Maule Valley is making a substantial mark. Also, Syrah has the potential to produce exceptional wines from many different areas of Chile.
[TaV]: For how long do you produce your Syrah wines? What is your inspiration for the Syrah? Is there an international style you would compare Viña Valdivieso Syrah to?
[VV]: We have been producing Syrah for around 10 years. When looking at what we try and achieve, I really look to the northern Rhone, trying to capture spice, black and white pepper. Our style has evolved over the years, initially being more of a new world dark rich style, whereas now I would compare more to soft spicy Rhone style. However Syrah is so unique in that as a red wine every area it is grown in, it produces a wine which is unique to that area.
[TaV]: What is the story behind Caballo Loco? Why all of a sudden to produce Solera-style red wine? Do you produce this wine every year? How do you say it is changing year over year?
[VV]: Caballo Loco, has a long history in Chile, the first edition being released in the early nineties. It was created through a series of events between the winemaking team, sales team, and owners. It is a reflection of the innovative nature of Valdivieso, and not being afraid to try new While it is based on our solera Sistema, each bottling is unique and such receives an individual edition number. The current edition on the market is the N°16, which contains 20 different vintages. The new edition N°17 will contain 50% of the previous edition (in this case N°16), and 50% of the new vintage wine. This method allows us to evolve the nuances of the wine over time. Over the years new vineyards, areas, varieties, and techniques have been incorporated into the wine. Each new edition is released when it is ready, which is not necessarily on an annual basis. Roughly every 18 months a new edition is released. The subtle changes over the years for me is principally increasing complexity and depth as we have come to better understand the vineyards of Chile and the opening of new areas.
[TaV]: It seems that Valdivieso ÉCLAT was produced only once in 2011, with an unusual for Chile blend of grapes. As there a story behind this wine? Any plans to produce a new vintage?
[VV]: Eclat VIGNO, is a blend of Old vine Carignan and Mourvedre. We are part of the VIGNO, a group of 13 wineries which has created this label VIGNO. It is an aggrupation which has been lead by winemakers with the objective to highlight the exceptional quality of these old vine vineyards in the Maule Valley. To place VIGNO on the label the wine must contain 100% of old vine from the Maule Valley. Of this, a minimum of 65% must be old vine Carignan. This is also intended to improve the situation of the small growers in the area, an area with many small growers which had in the past been obliged to sell there Carignan grapes for generic red blends, in which they were diluted away. Now with this initiative, the fruit is sought by many wineries for its quality potential resulting in substantially better prices for the growers. There will definitely be another vintage when the wine is ready.
[TaV]: What’s ahead for the Viña Valdivieso – new markets, new wines – what makes you excited?
[VV]: New wines to come, we have some really fun projects coming on. From the Maule Valley, we will shortly have some wines from an organic vineyard, being from an exciting range of varieties. Grenache, Syrah, Petit Syrah, Tempranillo, Tannat, Carignan, Carmenere, and Mouvedre. We still do not have a name for the range, but the quality of wine from these low yielding vineyards is exceptional.
Late this year we will be launching in the Eclat range 3 new wines under the Curiosity label. Cinsault from the Itata Valley, on the coast, old vines being cultivated in the traditional methods they have been using since vines were first introduced into Chile. There are records of wine being produced in this area since the 17th century. Also, a Rousanne, and a Marsane. These two whites look great, and for me show the potential for these Mediterranean varieties in Chiles conditions.
In the markets around the world it is a very exciting time for Chile, after years as been considered the supplier of good easy drinking wines, Chile has now become a very respected wine producer where people are respecting and expecting wines of the highest world class level. As a foreigner who has accepted into the industry I feel very privileged and lucky to have been able to play a small part in what has been this transformation of the wines from Chile.
I hope you are still here and reading this – I really love these conversations – while virtual, they still share the passion and even the obsession those little grapes bestow on us.
I’m sure you are thirsty by now, so pour yourself a glass, and let me share my impressions from tasting of the few of the Viña Valdivieso wines:
NV Viña Valdivieso Brut Chile (12% ABV, Chardonnay 60%, Semillon 40%, Charmat method)
white stone fruit, distant note, light mousse, good acidity on the palate, touch of grapefruit notes. Drinkability: 7+
NV Viña Valdivieso Rosé Chile (12% ABV, Pinot Noir 70%, Chardonnay 30%, Charmat method)
beautiful color, inviting nose of fresh berries with touch of herbs, light, round, touch of fresh fruit, excellent balance, refreshing. Drinkability: 7+/8-
2015 Viña Valdivieso Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva DO Valley de Leyda Chile (12% ABV)
straw color, very intense nose of blackcurrant and black currant leaves, same on the palate but with restraint, nice acidity, black currant, excellent. Drinkability: 8
2013 Viña Valdivieso Cabernet Franc Single Vineyard DO Valle Sagrada Familia Chile (14% ABV, Punta de Rosa Vineyard)
dark ruby color, touch of bell pepper, berries and leaves of the cassis, mint, touch of roasted meat. Palate follows the nose – medium body, good acidity, fresh red berries, touch of cassis, nice savory notes. Enjoyable by itself, but will work well with food. Drinkability: 8
Here we are, my friends. Sparkling from Chile? Yes, please! Cheers!
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