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Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – The Adulthood
This post was supposed to be written last year… And then I almost made it in time for the Sauvignon Blanc day which was celebrated two days ago, on May 6th. Well, it is definitely a “better late than never” post, so for what it worth, let’s dive into it…
Today, friends, we are going to talk about Sauvignon Blanc.
If I would just “shoot from the hip”, Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t stand up as a grape with tremendous clout. Yes, it is one of the three major white wine grapes, along with Chardonnay and Riesling. And yet if there were a grape popularity contest, I would guess the championship would be decided between Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Of course, Pinot and Syrah would-be contenders, but I still think the former two are really at the top of wine lovers’ minds.
But let’s take a closer look at Sauvignon Blanc. There is hardly a wine region in the world where Sauvignon Blanc is not growing – no point in recounting them, Sauvignon Blanc is successfully growing everywhere. Sauvignon Blanc makes sparkling, still, and dessert/late harvest wines. It shines solo everywhere, and I’m not talking about “usual suspects” – Sancerre, New Zealand, Chile, California – but I’m talking about some of the world’s best producers. Screaming Eagle, the “cult of the cults” producer in Napa Valley makes Sauvignon Blanc which is more allocated than their Cabernet Sauvignon. Gaja Alteni di Brassica and Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, two of the 100% Sauvignon Blancs from Italy – I hope these names need no introduction. Let’s not forget the “Y” dry wine produced by Sauternes legend, Chateau d’Yquem. And then of course, there are countless blends… Sauvignon Blanc is everywhere.
Garces Silva vineyard at sunset credit Jody Hortons
Never mind the blends – let’s talk about pure Sauvignon Blanc wines. In my opinion, there are 4 main distinct styles of Sauvignon Blanc – as there are 4 main production regions that we already mentioned – Sancerre, New Zealand, Chile, and California (Napa Valley primarily). Maybe I should say “there used to be” 4 main styles… In the old days, Sancerre could be identified by aromas of cat pee and freshly cut grass. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc had a currant profile with currant leaves showing very well. It was popular to refer to the main component of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc profile as Gooseberry – I remember wine critics angrily saying that 90% of those who use the descriptor never tasted gooseberry in their lives. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc was similar to New Zealand, only shifting more towards grapefruit and a bit more sweetness in the profile. All three (Sancerre, New Zealand, and Chile) have changed today. And only Napa Valley style has not changed since the moment I tasted Napa Sauvignon Blanc for the first time – freshly cut grass is weaved together with bright but not sweet fruit – it is succulent, it is seductive, it is “in-your-face-beautiful-and-not-ashamed-of-it” – but we will have to talk about Napa Sauvignon Blanc some other day.
For a long time, New Zeland Sauvignon Blancs were consistent, with only Cloudy Bay standing apart from the rest, in a very delicious way. Then New Zealand decided to look for a new Sauvignon Blanc identity at some point, and I had an opportunity to taste this “new identity” at a tasting 8 years ago – it was an interesting experience, please read my notes if you are interested. I don’t know if the Chilean wine industry is closely following New Zealand, or if is this just a common trait of growing up, but this brings us to today’s subject – Chilean Sauvignon Blanc wines.
Compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon, the Chilean staple, Sauvignon Blanc is a very young grape. The first plantings of the Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile go back to the middle of the 19th century. The story of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile only started in the late 1970s. In 1978, there was a total of 8,154 acres of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile, accounting for 3.1% of all grape plantings (land under vine), mostly concentrated in Maule Valley. In the 1980s, new plantings of Sauvignon Blanc started to appear in the coastal regions of Casablanca, as well as Coquimbo, Valparaíso and O’Higgins. Coastal areas offered cooler weather, which brings herbal, citrussy expression with cut-through acidity in Sauvignon Blanc, contrasting with the areas with a continental climate, known to bring those grapefruit/tropical fruit notes I mentioned before as an old signature of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.
Ventisquero vineyard. Source: Viña Ventisquero
Going beyond just new cooler coastal areas, winemakers also started paying attention to the inherent grape qualities, by choosing to experiment with different clones. Of course, it is only fair to assume that clonal selection is not just Pinot Noir or Chardonnay prerogative – nevertheless, until I started working on this article, I had no idea that Sauvignon Blanc clones are even a thing. Turns out that Davis Clone (#1) is known to impart citrusy qualities, Sancerre Clone (#242) is more herbal and fruity, and then there are other popular French clones #107, #241, and #317.
Today, Sauvignon Blanc is the second most planted grape variety in Chile with 37,614 acres under vine in 2019, accounting for 40% of all white grapes plantings. Sauvignon Blanc is the second most widely produced wine in Chile, with 13% of all the Chilean wine production volume (based on 2021 data). The majority of the Sauvignon Blanc plantings are now located in the coastal regions. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has definitely grown up and it is ready to conquer the world.
To make the encounter with modern Chilean Sauvignon Blanc wines more practical, I had an opportunity to taste 8 Sauvignon Blanc wines, all coming from different producers and representing a number of regions. Here are my notes:
2021 Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection Leyda Valley DO (13.5% ABV, $15) – Montes is a very interesting winery in general – I had an opportunity to speak with the winemaker, and to learn more about the winery, you might want to read part 1 and part 2 of our conversation. Sauvignon Blanc grapes used in this wine, clones 1 and 242, were harvested from the vineyard located about 9 miles away from the Pacific Ocean on the western slopes of the Cordillera de la Costa mountain range.
Greenish pale
Inviting nose of fresh berries, grass, cassis leaves, some tropical fruit undertones, Napa SB-like presentation
Fresh, vibrant, tart, lean, lemon, a distant hint of freshly cut grass – truly refreshing on a hot day. Delicious.
8+, superb. Nicely complements creamy goat cheese.
2020 Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc Las Dichas Casablanca (13% ABV, $18) – Casas del Bosque is one of my favorite Chilean producers, I had a number of their wines on different occasions. The grape for this wine came from the vineyard located about 10 miles away from the Pacific Ocean, located on the mountain slopes.
Greenish pale
Freshly cut grass, green herbs, medium+ intensity, cassis leaves
Clean, light, good acidity, herbaceous profile, a touch of freshly cut grass. Lean.
8, excellent wine.
2021 Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc San Antonio Leyda (12.5% ABV, $18, organic grapes) – Viña Koyle is one of the well-known Chilean organic wine producers – I had an opportunity to try some of their wines last year while working on the Chilean wines sustainability story last year. The grapes for this wine, clones 1 and 242, came from the vineyard located 5 miles away from the Pacific Ocean. The wine was aged for 4 months on the lees to soften the sharp acidity – as you can see in my notes below, cut-through acidity was still acutely present.
Light golden
Very restrained, distant hint of peach and guava
High acidity, a touch of freshly cut grass which quickly dissipated just leaving a tart finish.
8-, will be interesting with seafood.
2020 Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley DO (14% ABV, $25) – the grapes were harvested at the vineyard located 8.5 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The wine was aged for 6 months on fine lees.
Greenish pale
A hint of freshly cut grass
Tropical fruit profile with a hint of sweetness and a touch of grass
8-, nice
2020 Matetic EQ Coastal Valle Hermoso Casablanca DO (13.5% ABV, $20) – grapes for this wine came from the biodynamic vineyard in the Rosario Valley in Casablanca, just 3.5 miles away from the ocean.
Straw pale
Steely undertones, a distant hint of gunflint, a touch of lemon
Whitestone fruit, herbs, a touch of cassis leaves, finish is round and gorgeous with a whiff of freshly cut grass. Reminiscent of the Italian renditions of Sauvignon Blanc such as Ornellaia and similar.
8+/9-
2019 Viña Ventisquero Grey Glacier Sauvignon Blanc Atacama Valley (13% ABV, $25) – yet another winery I’m well familiar with. Curious fact – founded in 1998, Viña Ventisquero is turning 25 this year. The vineyard where the grapes for this wine came from is located 15 miles away from the ocean and in the middle of the Atacama desert, taking full advantage of the poor soils. The wine was aged in foudres to enhance its texture and improve aging capabilities.
Greenish pale
A hint of gunflint, earthy undertones, Dias tang hint of lemon
A hint of gunflint, crisp, clean, refreshing, clean acidity on the finish, nice textural presence with some salinity – should be a great oyster chaser.
8/8+, excellent
2021 Viña Tabali Talinay Sauvignon Blanc Valle de Limarí DO (13% ABV, $24) – the vineyard, called Talinay, eponymous with the mountain ridge where it is planted, is located 7 miles away from the ocean.
Greenish white
Minerally-driven nose, limestone, lemon, medium+ intensity
Crisp, fresh, lemon, minerality, a tiny hint of fresh cut grass which comes and goes.
8, this wine is asking for food. I want oysters… works well with Boursin cheese
2020 Viña Morandé Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva Casablanca Valley DO (13.5% ABV, $20, 12 months aged in oak foudres and concrete eggs) – Pablo Morandé was a Casablanca Valley pioneer, who started planting Sauvignon Blanc in the 1990s. Grapes for this wine came from Belén vineyard is in the Lo Ovalle region, 14 miles away from the ocean.
Straw pale
Fresh-cut grass with herbal undertones and minerality, sapidity (almost “meaty” smell if it makes any sense)
Clean, crisp palate, freshly cut grass, lemon, crisp acidic finish.
8, elegant and balanced.
Here you are, my friends. Beautiful, minerality-driven, world-class wines, with their own unique and delicious expressions. As you can tell from my notes, the tasting was 8 out of 8 success, which is generally not given.
I don’t know what is your take on Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and when did you taste it last time – it is definitely worth revisiting. and get ready to be pleasantly surprised.
Procrastination and Carménère
Let me quickly put you at ease – procrastination has nothing to do with Carménère. Unfortunately, it has to do with yours truly, and this blog been behind on the content for years.
It happens a lot more often than I would even want to admit to myself – I attend a great tasting or an exciting dinner with the winemakers. I would typically leave the event excited and with lots of ideas for the post. I would start writing and envisioning that post in my head for the next day, two, five, ten… One out of five will probably make it onto these pages, and the rest will continue playing in the head until it will convert into permanent guilt. I would look at my blog to-do list and feel that pain of unaccomplished over and over again. Sometimes, I would break through and write that long overdue post – and sometimes, you just accept that guilt, you know…
How far back it would be appropriate to go for some untimely post? If you know, please tell me. This is the wine we are talking about – who knows what vintages people hold? As long as I have the notes, it is all good, right. Feel free to disagree, but I’m going three years back today, to experience again some tasty Carménère…
As I wrote a post about my recent experience with the world-class TerraNoble Carménère line, I recalled the Carménère tasting which was organized three years ago by Snooth (I wrote about many Snooth tastings in the past, but somehow managed to miss this one). In the tasting, we heard from 7 producers and tried their Carménère wines. For what it worth now, three years later, here are my notes:
2015 Viña Casa Silva Cuvee Colchagua Carmenere Colchagua Valley (14% ABV, $15, blend of grapes from Casa Silva’s Los Lingues vineyard in the Andes and the Lolol vineyard in the Costa zone, 8 months in French oak)
Dark garnet color, restrained nose, herbal nose, mineral notes, granite. On the palate, tobacco, nicely restrained, earthy, herbal, good acidity, dark fruit. Overall, nice. Needs time. Pioneer of Carmenere in Colchagua, started in 1892. Carmenere overall started in Colchagua
2015 Siegel Single Vineyard Los Lingues Carmenere Colchagua Valley (14% ABV, $28.99, 8 months in French oak)
dark garnet, inky, color. Herbal in your face on the nose, pure currant, rutherford dust. Very concentrated on the palate, lots of oak, restrained. Needs time.
2014 Viña Carmen Gran Reserva Carmenere Colchagua Valley (14% ABV, $15, 90% Carmenere, 7% Carignan and 3% Petite Verdot, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 2 months in the bottle)
The oldest winery in Chile, founded in 1850. Practically black in color. Chocolate, coffee on the nose, sage, dark fruit. Open on the palate, sweet cherries, tobacco, perfectly balanced. Round, delicious. Best of tasting so far.
2015 Viña Requingua Toro De Piedra Carmenere Gran Reserva Maule Valley (14% ABV, $15, 12 months in French and American oak barrels)
Dark garnet color, herbal, funky nose, forest underfloor. Round on the palate, fresh herbal notes, sage, sweet cherries, blackberries. Good balance, very approachable.
2012 Valdivieso Single Vineyard Carmenere Valle de Peumo ($23, 12 months in French oak barrels, 35% new)
Almost black in color. Dark concentrated nose, currant leaves, very herbaceous, a touch of pepper. Sweet fruit on the palate. I can’t decide if this wine is corked on not. The nose says corked, palate says not. Need to give it a bit of time.
2014 Viña Ventisquero Grey Single Block Carmenere Trinidad Vineyard Maipo Valley (14% ABV, $22, aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, 34% new and 66% second and third use, 8 months in the bottle)
Practically black in color. Interesting nose, a touch of cabbage stew on the nose (in a good sense), funky nose, meaty. The palate follows on, beautiful pepper, black currant, delicious. Another favorite of the tasting.
2013 Valdivieso Caballo Loco Grand Cru Apalta Colchagua Valley ($35, 55% Carmenere, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in 100% French oak casks)
BAB, dark garnet color. Touch of funk on the nose, mocha, dark chocolate, touch of herbal notes. Delicious palate – pepper, tobacco, black currant, herb garden, clean acidity. Best of tasting overall.
I definitely find this interesting how 4 of the TerraNoble Carménère wines were all at the top of the game, and as you can tell from my notes here, many of these Carménère wines still have ways to go. But – unquestionably, Chile takes its star grape seriously, and there is a lot for us, winelovers, to enjoy, now and in the future.
With this post I also get to reduce my feeling of guilt, if at least by a hair – but I’m still happy. I hope I deserve another glass. No matter, I’m going to pour it anyway. Cheers!
A Quick Trip To Chile
Have wine, will travel.
Today our destination is Chile. As our travel is virtual, we need to decide on the wine which will help us to get to Chile, hence the question to you – what wine would you associate with Chile?
If you would ask me this question about 20 years ago, my answer would be quick – Cabernet Sauvignon. Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has an unmistakable personality with a core of bell pepper – one sip, and you know where you are heading. Then, of course, you got the Carménère – the mysterious grape of Chile, long mistaken for Merlot – for a long time, Carménère was considered the ultimate Chilean grape, its unique flagship.
How about white wine? Again – 20 years ago, it would be a Chardonnay. Actually, that would be for no specific reason outside of remembering the shelves of the wine store full of Concha y Toro Chardonnay right by the entrance to the store – the most imported wine brand at a time. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, that Chardonnay was not particularly recognizable or memorable.
About 5 years ago, I started running into the wines which I never associated with Chile before. When I was offered to try the Chilean Pinot Noir, to say that I was skeptical would be an understatement – yep, I didn’t believe that Chilean Pinot Noir is a “thing”. Those first tastings made me believe that Pinot Noir is possible in Chile – but they were not at the level to really make me a convert. Yet.
And then, of course, Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – exuberant wine, nothing subtle about it – bright grapefruit, tons of freshly cut grass and crips lemon – very un-Sancerre. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is truly a polarizing wine, not any less than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – both categories have plenty of haters. But let me not get on the tangent here.
A few days ago I was offered a sample of Chilean wines I never heard of before – Kalfu, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. I’m always happy to expand my wine universe, so yes, please. This happened to be a wise decision.
Kalfu is a project by Viña Ventisquero, focused on showcasing cool climate coastal wines. In case you are wondering, as I did, what Kalfu means, here is what the website says: “Kalfu means “Blue” in Mapudungun, the language of the aboriginal Mapuche people of the region. It represents the color that provides a myriad of sensations: blue, like the Pacific Ocean’s intense blue; and blue, like the free sky, acting as an accomplice of and witness to the mysterious origins of life.”
Under Kalfu, there are three lines of wines, representing different regions – Molu from Casablanca Valley, Kuda from Leyda Valley, and Sumpai from Huasco – Atacama Desert, all three names representing different sea creatures. As the wines I tasted were from the Kuda line, let me tell you what Kuda means, again taking from the web site: “Kuda – in the case of the seahorse or hippocampus, the female lays her eggs and then the male takes care of them until the new seahorses emerge fully developed. Unlike other sea creatures, sea horses are delicate and unique, so they need to be cherished. ”
The wines were, in a word, beautiful. And maybe even surprising.
2018 Kalfu Kuda Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley (12.5% ABV, $19) was currant-forward. It didn’t really have the characteristic fresh grass, nor grapefruit – it had fresh black currant leaves and loads of Meyer lemon. It was a well present wine without going overboard, with a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. And yes, every sip wanted you to take another one. Drinkability: 8+
2017 Kalfu Kuda Pinot Noir Leyda Valley (14% ABV, $19) was even more surprising. For this wine, I can use two words. Frist would be finesse. The second word – Burgundian. The wine offered smoke, black cherries, violet, a touch of pencil shavings, good minerality – nothing over the top, none of the extra sweetness, but perfect, elegant balance. For $19, this is lots and lots of wine. Drinkability: 8+/9-
Here you are, my friends. Two beautiful wines worth seeking. And now I have my new favorite Pinot Noir which I will be happy to drink at any time. Where did you travel lately? Cheers!
Quick Trip Around The World
Travel might be the biggest joy of human existence. Okay, if not the biggest, it is still one of the most essential ones. Travel leads to new experiences – and experiences are the moments which comprise our lives. I’m sure the joy of travel is not universal, but I’m equally sure that it actually is for the majority of the readers of this blog (hoping that there is at least someone reading it?).
Travel typically requires two things – resources and preparation. Heck, with unlimited resources you need no preparation – you can finish your work day, say “I feel like dining at Le Cinq tomorrow”, have your limo take you directly to the airport and off you go. For many of us, this would be just a scene from the movies – which doesn’t make it impossible, right?
For most of us, successful and happy travel would require a bit more effort – find the deal on the airfare, find the deal on the hotel, find out that your passport expired just a week before you need to get on the flight, then listen to the boss complaining that you are leaving without finishing all your important tasks, finally, throwing everything you need but mostly what you don’t into the suitcase 30 minutes before leaving for the airport and starting your so long anticipated travel totally exhausted. More or less, this is the picture, right?
Then every once in a while, there is something even the unlimited funds can’t buy. Time, I’m talking about. When you finish work at 6 in New York, there is no way to be in Madrid in time for dinner. This is where you need a magic trick – and I can offer you one. Actually, you don’t need any magic to travel instantly to many different places – all you need is … well, I’m sure you know it is coming … yes, all you need is wine. The wine has this capacity. Once you look at the label and see it says France, Spain or California, your imagination can easily do the rest. A well-made wine has a sense of place, so once you take a sip, you are instantly transported to the place where wine was made. And if you ever visited the winery or the region where the wine came from, I’m sure you can be instantly overwhelmed with the emotions and memories. No, it is not the same as simply been there, but I’m sure it will still do the trick.
Bierzo, Spain. Source: Bodegas Godelia website
Let’s take wine and let’s travel – how about a quick trip around the world? Let’s start in Spain, in the region called Bierzo, located in the North East part of Spain, close to the Portuguese border. As with many places in the old world, the viticulture originated in the region in the times of the Roman empire. Today, Bierzo is best known for the red wines made out of the grape called Mencía, and Godello and Doña Blanca are the two primary white grapes in the region. Bierzo is known for its special microclimate, conducive for the grape growing, which can be characterized as the continental climate with ocean influence. Bierzo has today about 2,000 grape growers, 75 wineries, and produced about 9 million bottles of wine in 2017.
Two wines I want to offer to your attention come from the Bodegas Godelia, about 86 acres estate in Bierzo. The winery was created in 2009, however, their vineyards are much older, from 20 to 90 years old, depending on the grapes, and located at the altitudes of 1,600 to 2,000 feet.
2015 Bodegas Godelia Blanco Bierza DO (13.5% ABV, $17, 80% Godello, 20% Doña Blanca)
C: light golden
N: intense, pear, guava,
P: lemon, honeysuckle, crisp acidity, medium + body, delicious
V: 8-
2012 Bodegas Godelia Mencia Bierzo DO (14.5% ABV, $19, 12 months in oak)
C: dark garnet, almost black
N: warm, inviting, medium+ intensity, a touch of barnyard, spices
P: cherries, baking spices, medium body, violets
V: 7+ on the 2nd day, needs time. Mencia is known to produce massive, chewy wines, so this wine is no exception. 6 years of age is nothing for this wine – it might start opening up after at least another 6.
Hills of Tuscany. Source: Barone Ricasoli website
Where should we go after Spain? How about Italy? Let’s visit Tuscany, where 2015 vintage was simply outstanding. Of course, Tuscany is best known for its Chianti wine. At the heart of the Chianti region lays a much smaller region called Chianti Classico – this is where the Chianti wines historically originated from. Inside Chianti Classico, let’s look for the winery called Barone Ricasoli – one of the very first producers in the region, taking its history since 1141. Barone Ricasoli property has a grand looking castle, where some of the stones are still original since 1141, 600 acres of vineyards and 65 acres of olive trees. While Barone Ricasoli is mostly known for the reds, they also produce a few of the white wines, a Rosato, grappa, and of course, the olive oil.
I want to offer you two of the classic Chianti wines from the Chianti Classico area (pun intended):
2015 Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG (13.5% ABV, $18, 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon)
C: Garnet
N: Tar, leather, sandalwood, tart cherries
P: Tart cherries, plums, clean acidity, sage, a touch of tobacco, medium plus body, good structure.
V: 8, was excellent from the get-go, got more complexity on the second day.
2015 Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (14% ABV, $23, 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon)
C: Dark garnet
N: Cherry, Sage, Rosemary, leather, medium plus intensity.
P: Supple berries, tart cherries, firm structure, young tannins, a touch of tobacco, good acidity, tannins on the finish
V: 8, great potential. Right now needs food. While perfectly drinkable now, with time will become a truly delicious sip.
Languedoc. Source: Languedoc-wines.com
We need to complete our old world portion of the tour, so I think the stop in France is a must. How about a quick visit with Paul Mas in Languedoc? Languedoc is the largest wine producing region in France, located in the south, producing a tremendous range of white, sparkling, Rosé and, for the most part, red wines. Domaines Paul Mas is one of my favorite producers I have written about many times. What I love about the wines of Domaines Paul Mas is that you literally can’t go wrong with any of the wines produced at the domain – Sparkling, Rosé, white or reds. Not only the wines taste great, but they are also priced very reasonably – Paul Mas wines saved my wallet at the restaurants on multiple occasions, so they definitely deserve some respect. Here are the wines I want to bring to your attention:
2016 Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Collection Chardonnay Saint Hilaire Vineyard Pays d’Oc (13.5% ABV, $12.99)
C: Light golden color
N: Meyer lemon aromatics, hint of white peach, Bosc pear
P: Crisp, tart lemon on the palate, ripe Granny Smith apples, clean, refreshing. Good mid-palate presence, medium finish.
V: 8-, very good.
2016 Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Collection Pinot Noir Saint Hilaire Vineyard Pays d’Oc (13.5% ABV, $12.99)
C: Dark ruby
N: Fresh raspberries and cherries on the nose
P: Soft, supple, fresh berries, crisp, fresh, perfect acidity, excellent
V: 7+/8-
2016 Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Collection Malbec Saint Hilaire Vineyard Pays d’Oc (13.5% ABV, $12.99, 90% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc))
C: Dark garnet
N: Fresh raspberries and blackberries in the nose, nicely inviting
P: Soft, supple, fresh berries, crisp, fresh, perfect acidity, excellent
V: 8-
How is your day going so far? Feel like traveling somewhere? How about we will take a trip to sunny California? California is a big place, so to narrow it down we are actually heading to the Santa Barbara County. Here is a perfect example of the wine being a connector and an instant transporter – as soon as I hear “Santa Barbara County”, the brain instantly serves up the memories of the first Wine Bloggers Conference I attended, WBC14, which took place in Santa Barbara County. Moreover, one of the best experiences of that trip was a visit to the small town of Solvang, which is an incredible place for any wine lover. While visiting Solvang, we tasted the wines produced by Lucas and Lewellen – thus seeing that name on the label was an instant memory trigger.
The wine I want to offer to your attention today is perfectly representative of the capabilities of the Santa Barbara County wine growing region, and at the same time is very non-typical for California. Lucas and Lewellen produce the line of wines under the name of Toccata, which are all Italian varieties and blends, all grown in California. This Toccata Classico was a perfect enigma – varietally correct Tuscan beauty, only made from start to finish in California. In a blind tasting, my guess 100% would be “Chianti!”.
2015 Lucas & Lewellen Toccata Classico Santa Barbara County (14.1% ABV, $29, 50% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Freisa, 5% Petit Verdot, 18 months in French Oak, 346 cases produced)
C: Garnet
N: Fresh cherries, touch a leather, medium+ intensity
P: Ripe cherries on the palate, bright, firm structure, fresh, crunchy, touch of leather, excellent complexity, nicely integrated tannins
V: 8+, an excellent rendition of the old world wine in the new world.
Trinidad Vineyard, Chile. source: Viña Ventisquero website
Hurry up or we will be late for our last destination – Chile. About 25 years ago, Chile was mostly known as a “one-trick pony”, offering bargain-priced Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. Today, Chile is one of the leading wine producing countries in the world, offering a substantial range of perfectly executed wines, from Chile’s own trademark, Carménere, to Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and many others.
Today we are visiting Viña Ventisquero, the winery which started only 20 years ago, in 1998, and now offering a diversified set of wines, coming from the different regions and made with the finest attention to detail.
2017 Viña Ventisquero Grey Glacier Single Block Apalta Vineyard Valle de Colchagua (14% ABV, $18, 62% Garnacha, 19% Carinena, 19% Mataro, 6 months in French oak)
C: Ruby
N: Fresh raspberries, medium plus intensity, beautiful
P: Restrained, dark fruit, medium body, minerality, clean acidity, tart raspberries
V: 8-
2014 Viña Ventisquero Grey Glacier Carménere Trinidad VIneyard Maipo Valley (14% ABV, $19, 18 months in French oak)
Dark garnet
A perfect nose of Carménere – mix black currant berries with blackcurrant leaves
Medium to full body, soft, silky, fresh blackcurrant present, anis, good acidity, good balance, very pleasant overall
8/8+, excellent wine
That concludes our trip, my friends. Wasn’t it easy to travel with wine, in the comfort of your living room? Cheers!
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