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Moscato d’Asti – The Joy of Sharing
Wine should give you pleasure.
This pleasure can come in many forms.
The simplest one is a pure hedonistic pleasure of that sip itself, the burst of flavor overwhelming your taste buds, and the opportunity to mindfully reflect on that very burst.
Or, with one sip of familiar wine, you can be instantly transposed in time and space – the wine can bring back memories. You can instantly imagine yourself being in Italy 5 years ago, experiencing this wine for the first time, vividly seeing the faces of the people you were there with, and reliving that beautiful moment again.
And then there is possibly the biggest pleasure of all – an opportunity to share wine with people. It is great to enjoy good wine by yourself – but that pleasure amplifies disproportionally when you pour the wine for your guests and you hear the collective “oh, it is so good!”.
I’m happy to share all of my wines with my guests, but then there are some wines that I even prefer to share. Let me explain.
I’m happy to open a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Syrah, any still red, white, or Rosé. Even if nobody would share it with me, I can drink it by myself over the next 2-3 days, no problem. But I would be very reluctant to open a bottle of sparkling wine for myself – I definitely prefer to share it with friends. Especially if this is a dessert sparkling wine, such as Moscato d’Asti.
I love doing that at the end of the dinner, when nobody expects that more wine might be coming. Seeing another bottle being brought up to the table, guests’ usual and immediate reaction is “what, more wine???”. This question requires no answer; I just wait for the people to taste the wine first.
Moscato d’Asti might be one of the hidden gems of the wine world, lightly fizzed, low alcohol, and deliciously, “just enough” sweet. This wine, made from the Moscato Bianco (white Muscat) grape, comes from the area in Piedmont where Moscato wines have been made for hundreds of years. Moscato d’Asti wine in its present, lightly fizzed form was born in the 1870s, when a number of winemakers started producing it in commercial quantities. Yet despite its 150+ years of history, I would still call it a hidden gem, as many winelovers are not aware of this wine or have the wrong ideas because of its sweetness.
The beauty of Moscato d’Asti is in its lightness and effervescence, and sweetness well balanced with acidity. If you want a glass of wine with your dessert, you will have to search far and wide to find the wine that would pair better with literally any type of dessert. And at a typical 5.5% alcohol level, it is guaranteed not to overwhelm your dining experience with a heavy punch of alcohol.
I recently had an opportunity to experience this “pleasure moment” when I opened the bottle of 2024 Sansilvestro Dulcis Moscato d’Asti DOCG (5.5% ABV) to serve with dessert. Overcoming the “what, more wine” resistance, I poured the wine for my guests and encouraged them just to take a sip. The next thing I heard was “oh my god, this is so good! Can I have more, please?” – there it is, that exact oenophile’s pleasure moment, equally as pleasant as taking a sip of the wine.
Moscato d’Asti is generally well priced, with a great selection of the wines at around $15 or less, so it definitely offers a great QPR and lots of pleasure without the need for an expense account. You should always have a bottle on hand, just in case you are craving a simple pleasure – double though considering the upcoming holiday season and all the get-togethers with friends.
By the way, on the subject of Moscato – back on May 9th, we celebrated Moscato Day (it is always celebrated on May 9th). I attended wonderful festivities in New York and never wrote about them, so if you care to see some of the images from that celebration, feel free to click “more” below.
Beautiful Wines of Smith-Madrone
I love the wines of Smith-Madrone.
I’m not even trying to make it a secret.
Yes, I’m biased. But I’m not ashamed of it.
Stu Smith and his brother, Charlie, founded the winery in 1971 in the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley. When Stu was buying a property overflowing with trees, he was told that he was making the mistake of his life. But the best wines are born out of conviction – add perseverance, gamption, hard work, ingenuity, and imagination – just get all of these ingredients, and you might also be able to make some beautiful wines.
I told you that I love the wines of Smith-Madrone. Usually, love doesn’t require proof. But if you insist, I have one – not only I wrote about wines of Smith-Madrone on multiple occasions, but their wines had been included in my Top Wines of the Year lists 4 times – #11 in 2018 (Riesling), #1 (Cook’s Flat Reserve) and #14 (Riesling) in 2019, #3 in 2023 (Cabernet Sauvignon), and #4 in 2024 (Cook’s Flat Reserve). I don’t have any other wines that so consistently appear in the Top Wines lists.
For many years, Smith-Madrone produced only three wines – Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon, with the addition of the Cook’s Flat Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in exceptional years. A few years back, Rosé and Cabernet Franc joined the collection, and I was dying to try them ever since. This year, I finally got my hands on the wines (I rarely ask for samples, but this was one of such rare moments – I did ask…), so now I can share my tasting notes with you.
2019 Smith-Madrone Estate Riesling Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (13.3% ABV)
Light golden
Petrol mixed with honey and honeysuckle, a pure aromatherapy in the glass for a Riesling lover. Crisp, bright, honey with lemon in perfect harmony, clean and crisp finish with lots of energy.
9, a pure delight.
2021 Smith-Madrone Estate Chardonnay Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14% ABV, 10 months in 50% new French oak)
Brilliant golden color
White plums and a touch of vanilla on the nose, a distant hint of gunflint (the wine is almost at room temperature). Apples, a touch of honey, vanilla, more apples, and a cleansing acidity. Delicious.
8+/9-, superb.
2023 Smith-Madrone Estate Rosé Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14.2% ABV, 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc)
Beautiful, bright crimson red
Tart cherries, fresh, on the nose. Light, inviting, elegant.
Beautiful tart cherries on the palate, well present, round, delicious.
8+, delicious Rosé with character
2021 Smith-Madrone Estate Cabernet Franc Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14.7% ABV, 89% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 months in 60% new French oak)
Dark garnet
Ripe black currant, dark chocolate, fat, juicy, exciting. Delicious, black currant, dark chocolate, a rich California Cab Franc style, bell pepper came in later, together with a beautiful black pepper note, spicy and delicious.
8+/9-
Truth be told, I also got a sample of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – but this is one of my most favorite Cabernet Sauvignons ever, so I couldn’t muster the courage to open the bottle yet, and will be waiting for the right occasion later this year – maybe a Thanksgiving celebration, as I did back in 2018.
I think both Rosé and Cabernet Franc are great additions to the portfolio. Both are produced in small quantities (131 cases of Rosé, 153 cases of Cabernet Franc), and Rosé is already gone (duh, summer is ending), but the Cab Franc is still available. And if we are talking about new additions, maybe we will see a sparkling wine one day? Or wait, I might have even a better idea – how about some late harvest Riesling? Knowing the quality of Smith-Madrone Riesling, if they were ever to produce a dessert-level Riesling, I’m sure it would be an absolute delight. Oh well, maybe one day…
Here you go, my friends. I hope you had a chance to discover the wines of Smith-Madrone for yourself. If you have not, head over to the Smith-Madrone website, admire the scenery of beautiful mountain vineyards, and get a few bottles for yourself to enjoy. I guarantee you will not regret it. Cheers!
Latest Wine News and Updates
There is something always happening in the world of wine. When we hear the word “wine”, of course, we get an instant image of the liquid in the glass. But before and after that liquid in the glass, the world of wine is a business world, and as with any other business, something is always happening in the wine business. Let’s take a look at some of the latest, “hot off the press” developments in the wine world.
Tariffs can’t stop the wine
It is nice to think of wine as something divine and poetic, but at the end of the day, wine has to be paid for, just like cars, TVs, and steaks. For things we pay for, the scary word of the day is “tariff” – we can’t just escape the reality of our lives. The US government floated the idea of setting the tariffs for all European wines at 200%, and that is a scary thought for winemakers and wine consumers alike. Some of the winemakers want to face this challenge head-on – and thus, venerable Champagne houses Dom Pérignon and Krug just announced that they will start production of their famed Champagnes in the US, which will allow them to avoid tariffs altogether. The information is scarce and protected by strong NDAs, but based on anonymous social media leaks, both houses entered into agreements with undisclosed wineries in Oregon to source the fruit and assist in the production of the sparkling wines. Would they be able to call them Champagne? This is the question of the year, of course. I’m sure we will learn more as the story unfolds. Currently, it is expected that both houses will be able to proudly offer “made in USA” Krug and Dom Perignon as early as the 2027 vintage.
Chateau Latour 1982 without alcohol? You got it
It seems that alcohol-free wine is a big trend (not for me, but hey, it is a free world, right?). Until now, the choices of alcohol-free wines had been limited to specifically produced non-vintage wines of unknown pedigree. This is about to change, all thanks to the company that already once revolutionized fine wine consumption. Coravin just announced a new wine preservation system, which not only lets you sip your prized First Growth over many years, but also allows you to remove the alcohol from the wine while it’s been poured! Think about your underage kids being able to enjoy the legendary wines together with the adults at the dinner table. Or even oneself, now being able to consume an unlimited amount of the elixir and then drive with no problems at all. This new Coravin wine preservation system, called Drink Freely, is priced at $899, and it is expected to hit the store shelves before Christmas of 2025. You can visit the Coravin website to sign up for the email updates for the early availability of Drink Freely.
Wine and health
I’m sure you noticed that wine has been assaulted as of late with all the baseless claims about the dangers of wine consumption to your health. Despite all the wealth of the previous research, talking about the benefits of moderate wine consumption, it seems that beating wine down became a favorite pastime of many medical “scholars.” The World Health Organization (WHO) has been one of the staunch critics of wine consumption and alcohol in general. In a stunning reversal of events, the WHO published the results of a 10-year-long lifestyle study, concluding that moderate wine consumption, up to 2 glasses of wine per day, had shown improved mental capacity, reduced stress, and boosted immune system defences among experiement’s subjects, compared with the control group. The findings were so profound that the WHO Director-General, Dr. Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, called the wine “an elixir of life” in his quote. Again, this was quite an unexpected endorsement, but who can argue with success?!
Vines under water
Rising sea levels are definitely a concern for many wineries, especially those located in the coastal areas around the world. What will happen if the vineyards go underwater? What if it is possible to successfully grow grapes in the vineyards at least partially, or potentially, completely submerged in water? The University of the Basque Country in Spain teamed up with famed UC Davis in California and several wineries in the Rias Baixas area to research the ability of vines to thrive under water. The first vineyards had been planted in the sea basin near Vigo in Rías Baixas, taking care of protecting young vines from the sea currents and fish. Obviously, Albariño was the first choice of the grape variety to plant, but a number of other Mediterranean grape varieties are also in the play. It is too early to talk about the results, as the project has been going for only 3 years, with the first mentions just leaking into the press, but the chief project scientist, Dr. Maximilian Grape-Seedling, says the early results are encouraging. We are still 3-4 years away from any commercial availability, but we can definitely share the hope for the future of the wine industry.
The wine crypto
Last but not least – we just learned of the first ever wine foray into the world of cryptocurrency. Loïc Pasquet, the winemaker behind the most expensive Bordeaux wine, Liber Pater ($30,000 per bottle upon release), just announced his brand new crypto, $Liber. $Liber will be based on the Ethereum blockchain and will be released at $10,000 a piece, with only 10,000 coins total planned for circulation. The new crypto will be backed by the 2020 vintage of Liber Pater, with 5,000 bottles set aside as collateral for the new cryptocurrency. It will be first available for sale on May 1st, and the demand for the hotly anticipated coin already exceeds 3 times the expected total supply. Each new $Liber owner will receive a 50 ml bottle of 2015 Liber Pater and the certificate of ownership signed by Loïc Pasquet himself. $Liber will be available on all major crypto exchanges such as Coinbase, Robinhood, and others.
And we are done here – all the latest wine news and updates.
Until the next time – cheers!
Brunello di Montalcino 2020: Captivating, Bright, Succulent
Benvenutto Brunello is one of my favorite wine tasting to attend. If you like Italian wines, Brunello needs no introduction (and if you don’t, I’m not sure we can be friends) – one of the 3 big Bs of Italian winemaking – Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello.
Brunello is an epitome of the expression of the best known Italian red grape – Sangiovese. The Sangiovese growing in the Brunello di Montalcino proper is considered a clone – Sangiovese Grosso, but it is a Sangiovese nevertheless.
Brunello de Montalcino appellation is almost square, all located around the hill crowned with the town of Montalcino, with vineyards densely occupying 5,189 acres and located at various altitudes over a range of different soils. Different microclimate conditions, terroirs, guarantee a great diversity of styles among 200 or so producers in Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Another interesting appellation within Brunello proper is Rosso di Montalcino DOC, occupying 2,124 acres (after expansion in 2020) of dedicated vineyards (Rosso DOC vineyards are only used for production of Rosso di Montalcino DOC). Take a look at this wonderful video providing an excellent overview of the Brunello di Montalcino region:
Gabrielle Gorelli, MW, led our highly informative Brunello Masterclass, providing a detailed overview of the 2020 vintage and the changes in vintage assessment that just went into effect.
The 2020 was a pivotal vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. Not because of the Brunello 2020 wines per se, but because of the fundamental changes made in assessment of the 2020 vintage and all future vintages to come.
Until 2020, Brunello di Montalcino vintages had quality assessment specified with the stars (from 1 to 5 stars) and a short slogan characterizing the vintage. For example, the 2014 vintage had a rating of 3 stars and was called “Grace under pressure”. 2015 had a rating of 5 stars, and it was called “Power and Purity”; the 2016 vintage was also rated 5 stars and called “Finesse and depth”.
The 2020 Brunello vintage marks the end of the star ratings – this is the last vintage awarded a star rating (5 stars, in case you are wondering). Instead, Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino is introducing Brunello Forma, which will only provide a verbal description of the vintage moving forward.
A significant amount of effort went into the creation of the new system. 39 weather stations were installed around the region to collect the microclimate data. Historical data of the past 12 years were collected and a significant number of samples from the past vintages were blind tasted to come up with the set of data which will allow to make vintage assessment more scientific, I guess.
To come up with the vintage verbal assessment, a panel of industry experts (masters of wine, wine distributors, wine writers) ran extensive tasting of the 2020 wines, then collected and processed a large number of descriptors used by the panel members to crystallize the 2020 Brunello vintage description into these three words:
Captivating, Bright, Succulent
As an engineer at heart, I’m not a fan of words. Simple numerical (3 stars, 92) or verbal (fair, good, very good) rating quickly gives me everything I need to know about the vintage in general – captivating or succulent doesn’t set my expectations about a given wine – not now, and especially, not in the future.
However, as it was explained later on during the dinner with Giacomo Bartolommeo, Brunello winemaker at Caprili, the star ratings were hurting the wineries, as wine buyers preferred to ignore wines from 3-star vintages and focus on acquiring better-rated vintages, without much regard to the qualities of the particular wine. Moving to verbal descriptors eliminates the opportunity for a quick rating-based decision. Well, winemakers are in the business of selling their wines, so it is not my place to complain or judge.
Then, of course, there were wines. I have to say that in the traditional Italian style (please take no offence), the tasting order was changed by our presenter, Gabrielle Gorelli, MW, compared to the order written on the notes page. However, I have to say that our tasting order was definitely the right one, showing progression from very tight and lean wines to wines that were softer and more approachable now. I attended both seminars, so below are my notes:
Morning Seminar
Col D’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Ruby Color
Interesting nose, sapidity, earthy undertones, leather
Tart is the first sensation; tart cherries, expressive tannins, crisp acidity
Pian Delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (36 months in Slavonian oak)
Dark ruby color
Sweet cherries, perfumy, very playful
Not as tart as the previous wine, but has very explicit tannins, good acidity, but lacking fruit, very lean
Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (vineyards planted on the oldest soils, 3 years in big oak barrels)
Garnet color
Sweet tobacco, cherries, plums, attractive
Initially showed beautiful cherries, the tartness kicked in, followed by very dry finish with big but well integrated tannins
Marchesi Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (single vineyard, aged in big casks)
Garnet color
Beautiful nose, elegant, perfumy, with a touch of sweet cherries.
Tart cherries on the palate, herbs, tart finish with well pronounced tannings.
San Polo Podernovi Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in light-toast 40hl casks)
Garnet color with bright reddish hues
Beautiful nose, elegant, perfumy, sweet cherries, eucalyptus.
Tart cherries, tannins are overwhelming, but the most elegant finish so far.
Probably can be enjoyed now after decanting
La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark Garnet
Playful, bright red fruit, cherries, herbs, sweet oak.
Palate is a tad bitter, strange, had to swallow the wine instead of spitting to establish that it was not corked. Overall, not bad, but the nose is way better than the palate.
Collematoni Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark ruby color, beautiful
Beautiful nose, sweet fruit, cherries, sage, beautiful.
The best palate so far – round, with sweet and tart cherries, elegant, delicious.
8+
2020 Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (38 months in oak)
Dark garnet
Beautiful, open, sweet fruit, sweet cherries, pencil shavings.
Tart cherries, explicit balsamic notes, succulent, mouthwatering, round, delicious, beautiful, superb.
8+
My favorite two wines of the morning seminar:
Afternoon seminar
Sanlorenzo Brunellodi Montalcino 2020 (aged in oak for about 3 years)
Garnet color
Beautiful, sweet fruit, cherries, dark undertones, earthiness.
Intense fruit quickly dissipates into very tart, very high expression tannins and acidity on the finish. Super-lean.
Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Dark garnet
Interesting nose, maybe racy is a good descriptor? Garrigue, some cherries show up a bit later.
Lots of sweet cherries which instantly disappear, but the finish is a bit less tart than the previous wine.
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Very dark, practically black, darkest of the tasting so far
The nose is restrained, earthy and herbaceous
Sweet cherries, sweet oak, then tart, acidic, and ultra-tannic on the finish, very dry
Sassodisole Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (minimum 24 months in oak)
Dark Garnet
Cherries, sage, perfume, nice and open
Tart cherries, leather, well-integrated tannins
So far, the most approachable wine of the tasting
Camigliano Paesaggio Inatteso Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in oak barrels, 10 months in cement tanks after)
Bright ruby
Underbrush, a hint of smoke
Tart cherries, fresh cleansing acidity, acidic finish with some tannins, not bad.
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (30 months in Slovenian oak casks of different capacities)
Dark garnet
Nice, inviting, round, dark fruit, a touch of crushed rocks.
Sweet cherries, crunchy and succulent, great energy, cherries on the finish, delicious.
8+, the best of the second seminar
Cortonesi Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (24 months in oak)
Dark garnet, almost black, with bright hues
Amazing nose. Cherries that magically pull you in.
Fish and powerful opening on the palate, but bitter tannins set in.
Best nose of both tastings, 9-/9. Palate is not great right now – 7+
Banfi Poggio Alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 2020 (24+ months in French oak)
Dark garnet with bright hues
Nice, open nose with lots of fresh herbs – sage, thyme.
Sweet dark fruit on the palate initially, then the palate is quickly shut down in front of the mouth. Again, if you swallow this wine instead of spitting, the wine is a lot more generous. Succulent is a perfect descriptor for such a wine. 8+
Best wines of the second seminar:
In addition to the seminars, there was tasting on the “main floor”. There were more of the excellent 2020 Brunellos, such as San Felice, Caprili, or Corte Pavone. There were also many of the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines, which were simply outstanding. Additionally, 2023 Rosso di Montalcino were presented by almost all participating wineries and were excellent across the board.
My Brunello deep immersion didn’t stop there. After the event was over, we went for dinner with John Fodera and Giacomo Bartolommei, the winemaker at Caprili, to the wonderful Italian New York restaurant Zero Otto Nove, famous not only for genuine Italian food but for the amazing wine list. There, Giacomo found 2001 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino, which we ordered.
Wow, what a pleasure it was. Perfumy nose of succulent cherries, anis, eucalyptus. You can’t stop smelling the wine, you don’t even think of drinking it for a few minutes. Then you take a careful sip and experience an explosion of flavor with succulent cherries, balscami vinegar, iodine, and magic that only an Italian wine with age can offer. The experience was not identical to 1999 Soldera, but it was pretty darn close.
And now my Brunello report is complete. The 2020 vintage offers beautiful aromatics; it is approachable, it is succulent, it is captivating. Let’s raise the glass to the new era in Brunello and more tasty Brunello wines for us. Cheers!
2022 UGCB Vintage Preview – Power and Elegance
About a month ago, I attended the Union de Grand Crus de Bordeaux (UCBG) event introducing the Bordeaux 2022 vintage. UCBG is a marketing organization created in 1973 with the goal of promoting Bordeaux Grand Cru wines around the world. Today, UCBG comprises 132 Grand Cru Châteaux (wineries) in Bordeaux and runs about 80 marketing events per year, attracting more than 40,000 wine professionals.
UCBG vintage introduction event offers a great opportunity to have an early look into the latest vintage, taste lots of great wines and talk to the winemakers.
Speaking with the winemakers, my main question was: So, how was the vintage? Based on what I heard, it seems that 2022 was an excellent vintage with even growing conditions, with rains mostly in the early stages and then reasonably hot and dry conditions all the way through the harvest, delivering powerful, concentrated fruit with ample acidity. Hence, the descriptor I’m using for this vintage is Power and Elegance.
I have to tell you that I enjoyed most of the wines across the board. I didn’t have any OMG moment, but lots of wines showed very consistently, many of them ready to drink even now.
I didn’t take any detailed notes. Instead, I took pictures of the wines I liked, and now I would simply like to share the list of my favorite wines from this 2022 Bordeaux Grand Cru tasting.
Last year, I wrote about the 2021 Bordeaux Grand Cru vintage, so this year, I decided to mark the wines I liked last year with a star. This way, maybe I can identify my “perennial” preferences 🙂 – will see.
Here you are – my favorite 2022 Grand Cru Bordeaux wines, sorted by region:
Pessac-Léognan (the only Grand Cru region in Bordeaux producing both white and red wines).
2022 Château Carbonnieux Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Château de Fiuzal Blanc Pessac-Léognan*
2022 Château de Fiuzal Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Haut-Bailly Rouge Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc Pessac-Léognan
2022 Château La Louvière Blanc Pessac-Léognan
Apparently, Chateau Lascombes went back to the old label – as you can see in this picture
Margaux
2022 Château Lascombes Margaux
2022 Château Malescot St. Exupéry Margaux
2022 Château Desmirail Margaux
2022 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux*
Pauillac
2022 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
2022 Château Pichon Baron Pauillac
2022 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac*
2022 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac*
2022 Château Duhart-Milon Pauillac*
2022 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse Pauillac*
2022 Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac*
2022 Château Haut-Batailley Pauillac*
2022 Château Batailley Pauillac*
2022 Château Lynch-Moussas Pauillac
Pomerol
2022 Château Beauregard Pomerol
2022 Château Petit-Village Pomerol*
2022 Château La Cabanne Pomerol
2022 Château Clinet Pomerol
2022 Château Le Gay Pomerol*
Saint-Émilion
2022 Chateau Valandraud Saint-Émilion*
2022 Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion*
2022 Château Pavie Macquin Saint-Émilion
2022 Château Clos Fourtet Saint-Émilion
2022 Château Dassault Saint-Émilion
Saint-Estèphe
2022 Château Phélan Ségur Saint-Estèphe*
2022 Château Cos Labory Saint-Estèphe
2022 Château De Pez Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Julien
2022 Château Langoa Barton Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Léoville Barton Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Gloria Saint-Julien*
2022 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien
Médoc
2022 Château Chase-Spleen Moulis en Médoc
2022 Château Citran Haut-Médoc
Sauternes – most of the producers I spoke with mentioned that they didn’t produce any Sauterns in 2021 – now it makes sense that last year most of the Sauternes producers were presenting different vintages…
2022 Château Guiraud Sauternes* (presented 2016 vintage last year, 2024)
2022 Château Doisy-Vérdines Sauternes* (presented 2018 vintage last year, 2024)
2022 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac Grand Vin de Sauternes
2022 Château Bastor-Lamontagne Sauternes* (presented 2016 vintage last year, 2024)
At the same tasting, I also had an unsanctioned (in many ways) treat. I noticed a winemaker in the corner talking to a few people and pouring wines that clearly didn’t belong to the tasting – 1982 and 1983 Boirceaux. I asked if I can have a taste too, and the wine – albeit grudgingly – made into my glass. The 1983 was quite drinkable – I didn’t catch the label, though. This 1982 Château Ramage La Batisse Haut-Médoc was mostly showing tertiary aromas, but hey, 1982 commands respect, so I can’t complain about having a taste of the Bordeaux from the legendary vintage.
There you are – the 2022 Bordeaux Grand Cru vintage. Well worth your attention. I’m sure it will age very well, but – you really don’t need for it to age. Crack the bottle open and enjoy!
Top 24 of 2024
See how well this rhymes?
Top 24 of 2024.
When I posted my list of top wines of the year for the first time in 2010, the desire was to create a list of the top 10 wines. This was almost successful, as the list included 12 wines, so I decided that “my thing” would be Top Dozen. I managed to maintain that limit of a dozen wines in 2010 and 2011. But then in 2012, I failed miserably, and that list included 26 wines. And ever since, all the top wine lists have had about two dozen wines or so.
I’m glad that in 2024, I don’t need to even look for any excuses as to why the top list contains so many wines. 24 wines is perfectly suitable for 2024, so that’s what we are going to do.
The selection process for the wines to be included in the Top Wines of the Year is very simple – the wine has to be memorable. These are the wines that solicited emotion, and thus became memorable. They don’t have to be the highest rated wines, even though they often are, but they have to be memorable.
I never try to calculate how many wines I taste during the year. Including all the tasting events and wine dinners I’m lucky enough to attend, I would guess this number is close to a thousand, so I believe selecting two dozen wines out of a thousand is reasonable. And please believe me when I say that decision is never easy, especially when it comes to deciding on the top spot – 2024 was no exception, and you will see why as you follow along.
Without further ado, let me present to you Talk-a-Vino Top Wines of 2024:
25. 2021 Bodegas El Nido El Nido Jumilla Do Spain ($150) – very much last-second addition to the list, but I would be upset if I did not include this wine. El Nido is generally a massive wine – pop and pour drinkability of this 2021 flagship of Gil Estates wines was very surprising and definitely memorable. Voluptuous, generous, yet perfectly balanced – one memorable wine – which is the main criterion for the inclusion into this list.
24. 2021 Le Clos du Caillou Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Unique Vieilles Vignes ($19, Last Bottle) – I’m generally a bit concerned about Cotes du Rhone wines, as I had many underwhelming specimens over the years. Not this wine though – beautiful, round, supple without being overbearing, very easy to drink.
23. 2021 FIOL Rosé Prosecco DOC Millesimato ($22) – everyday bubbles. Can I say just that? Okay, fine, if you insist – it was delicious, with a lot of energy and the fizz more reminiscent of a good champagne. Strawberries, anyone?
22. 2023 MAIA Winery Mare White Israel ($25) – Was looking for an Israeli wine to celebrate Rosh Hashanah, and came across this wine at the local Total Wine. Somehow this wine spoke to me, and I’m glad it did – it was all-around delicious with a structure that would make a good Chardonnay proud.
21. 2017 Campochiarenti San Nicola Riserva Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG (€19) – There is something special about Italian wines, like they can speak directly to your wine lover’s soul. Cherries galore, beautifully and tightly packaged to put a smile on your face. Don’t believe me? Try it for yourself.
20. 2021 Keeler Estate White Wine Blend Eola-Amity Hills AVA ($20, Last Bottle) – as you peruse this Top wines list, you will see many finds courtesy of Last Bottle. Yes, Last Bottle knows how to present their wines in a very appealing way – but Last Bottle can’t force the wine to appear in this list, this would be my doing. So this wine was delicious – light, citrusy, with just the right amount of complexity.
19. 1997 Chateau Haut-Piquat Lussac Saint-Emilion AOC ($19.99, Wine Exchange) – I don’t drink a lot of Bordeaux, so I’m glad I had at least one wine worthy of inclusion in this Top list. I found this wine a few years back with the help of Wine Exchange, and it was an excellent find – a classic old-world Claret, still youthful and delightfully drinkable.
18. 2014 Le Casalte Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG ($N/A) – another “first of” wine on this list – first of the great wine finds we experienced during our family European trip earlier this year. Not only was this wine tasty, but it was also very memorable as I ordered this Vino Nobile wine at a restaurant at the very heart of the Brunello land – in Montalcino. Well, good Sangiovese is a good Sangiovese, what can I say. This one was delicious.
17. 2022 Gran Bousquet Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley ($25) – Cabernet Sauvignon of this quality for this price is simply unreal. And it is organic. If you like Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a must-try.
16. 2017 Saxum Heart Stone Vineyard Paso Robles Adelaida District ($110) – this wine could probably wait for another 3-4 years (or much longer) – still, it delivered enough pleasure as it was. Powerful, concentrated, delicious.
15. 2017 Royal Tokaji Borászat Mad Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos ($N/A) – One of the highlights of the trip to Hungary. Seductively sweet and refreshingly acidic – a dessert wine to seek.
14. 2022 Petit Sauvage Rouge Vin de France ($17.99, Wine.com) – This wine forced a deep search in my wine lover’s vocabulary to find the words to describe it properly. I rather failed with the search, but I enjoyed the process – you can read more in the post. A rare grape and a very memorable experience.
13. 2018 Anaperenna by Ben Glaetzer Barossa Valley Australia ($49, Last Bottle) – I need to drink more Australian wine, as this one was delicious on all levels.
12. NV Champagne Camille Jacquet Brut Grand Cru Chardonnay A Le Mesnil-sur-Oger ($35, Last Bottle) – yes, another Last Bottle, and an absolute steal of Champagne for the money. Toasted notes on the nose and the palate, lots of energy and finesse. Also comes with regrets – why did I only buy 3 bottles?
11. 2021 Banfi Poggio Alle Mura Rosso di Montalcino DOC ($25) – another Sangiovese, another wine associated with our family’s European trip and a first wine from Banfi (spoilers: there will be more). We had this wine during our lunch at Castello Banfi, and it stopped everyone in their tracks – even kids who are not really into the wines.
10. 2018 Ramos Pinto ‘Urtiga’ Terracos Pre-Filoxericos Douro DOC ($300) – talk about unique wines – this one will be hard to beat. It comes from the vineyard where each vine has its own GPS and sensors, and can be tracked. Made from 63 unique varieties. Delicious, elegant wine, as memorable as they ever get…
9. 2012 No Girls Tempranillo La Paciencia Vineyard Walla Walla Valley ($90) – liquid rock, tamed. End of the description. Seriously, smokey and brooding wine, full of granite and iodine, mature enough to let the fruit show through. Definitely an experience.
8. 2020 Avignonesi Desiderio Toscana IGT Merlot ($60) – What is it with Italian Merlot? It is as good as Sangiovese gets. Unmistakably Italian, round, classic, delicious.
7. 2009 Sauvella Luscinia Canta Costers del Segre DO ($30) – when my friend said ” you will love this wine” it didn’t register with me. Then I opened the bottle, and the next thought was “oh my god, this is so good, what is it???”. A Spanish wine of an unusual pedigree (Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in leading roles), smooth, well-structured, scrumptious. And I don’t even want to mention the price…
6. 2022 Terra Alpina Chardonnay Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT ($20) – I’ve had Terra Alpina wines before, I guess this is what convinced me to get this bottle at Whole Foods in Florida. I’m a sucker for a good Chardonnay, and this high-altitude, Alpine-climate-driven rendition was just spectacular, round and succulent. A delightful wine all the way.
5. 2021 Juan Gil Red Blend Jumilla DO ($15) – Another surprising business trip Whole Foods find. I grabbed this wine strictly based on price. Once I poured it into the glass, I was blown away by both the aromatics and the bouquet of ripe fresh berries, sweet oak, chewy but elegant tannins, the whole package for mere $15.
4. 2018 Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Reserve Spring Mountain District Napa Valley ($225) – Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon. Precise flavor, immaculate delivery, the wine to experience.
3. 2019 Ramos Pinto Quinta de Ervamoira Douro DOC ($100+) – here we go – the second wine from Ramos Pinto. This is a single-vineyard wine, coming from a single vineyard designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dark fruit, earthy, powerful, and precise.
2. 2019 Field Recordings The Armory Paso Robles ($85) – This wine was really something else. I poured this wine for our guests on Thanksgiving, while continuing to drink whatever I had before. Judging by the facial expressions and overall reaction of our guests, I decided that it might be a big mistake if I will not try it. I don’t know what kind of dark voodoo magic was used to make this wine, but it was unique. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and while the wine had all the traits of a classic cab, every taste element had its own amplified energy, it was vibrant and alive. A truly unique experience.
1. 2020 Mariasy Tokaji Furmint Hungary ($N/A) – yes, I did it again. Two #1 wines. In my mind, this was the only way. Chardonnay-like and Chardonnay. This Furmint wine was full-bodied, succulent, offering hints of vanilla and toasted notes and even imaginary butter, while being bright and energetic.
1. 2022 Banfi Fontanelle Chardonnay Toscana IGT ($30) – And now, the Chardonnay. Vanilla, apples, honey, bright, zingy, refreshing, and dangerous. Really dangerous – I would drink a bottle by myself.
This completes the presentation of the Top 24 (actually, 26, but who would count) Wines of 2024. Lots of well-worthy wines didn’t make it to the list, but I think I got a good representation here.
What was your wine(s) of the year 2024?
Fun With Numbers – Analyzing 2024 Top 100 Lists
Do you like numbers?
Do you like to play with numbers?
I do – so let’s have a bit of a [almost traditional] fun with wine numbers. I’m talking about analyzing the Top 100 lists from the major wine publications.
Top 100 is one of the most anticipated and coveted topics in the wine world. There is a lot of anxiety and activities surrounding the Top 100 lists. Wineries proudly put their Top 100 “membership” on the bottles; publications, such as Wine Spectator, create a lot of drama, slowly unveiling their Top 100 selections over a week; wine stores are anxious to get and offer as many of the Top 100 selections as possible; consumers get an extra reason to buy the Top 100 wines as their greatness had been established by the experts. So let us take a closer look at the Top 100 Wines of 2024 lists from the major publications and compare them side by side.
The majority of the wine publications present their Top 100 lists, many of the publications even offering a multitude of Top 100 lists – for example, James Suckling publishes separate Top 100 lists for most of the major wine countries; Wine Enthusiast offers Best Buys, Cellar Selection and Enthusiast 100 lists. As I have done in the past, for this comparison I’m using Top 100 lists from James Suckling, Wine Enthusiast, and Wine Spectator. For the Wine Enthusiast, I’m using the Enthusiast 100 list. Also note that while James Suckling and Wine Enthusiast 2024 Top 100 list links are specific to the year, Wine Spectator has one link for all top 100 lists from 1988 until 2024 (going through those is a fun exercise in itself).
Now, let’s discuss the particulars.
Wine of the Year
Let’s start with the Top wines of 2024. Out of the 3 top wines, 2 are reds and one is sparkling – not very surprising as red wines dominated the top 100 lists at all three publications. James Suckling’s Top wine of 2024 was the 2015 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (JS100, $125). Wine Enthusiast’s Top wine of 2024 was the 2013 Roco RMS Brut Delayed Disgorgement 10-Year Sparkling Willamette Valley (WE98, $125). Lastly, the Wine Spectator Top wine of 2024 was the 2021 Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Puente Alto Vineyard Chile (WS96, $175).
Regions
Here is how the three Top 100 lists stuck up when it comes to the wine regions of the world:
| Region | JS | WS | WE |
| Argentina | 6 | 3 | 4 |
| Australia | 5 | 3 | 3 |
| Austria | 4 | 1 | 3 |
| California | 12 | 26 | 37 |
| Canada | 3 | ||
| Chile | 6 | 4 | 2 |
| China | 1 | ||
| France | 18 | 16 | 14 |
| Georgia | 1 | ||
| Germany | 12 | 1 | 1 |
| Greece | |||
| Hungary | 1 | 1 | |
| Israel | 1 | ||
| Italy | 26 | 20 | 13 |
| New York | |||
| New Zealand | 4 | ||
| Oregon | 5 | 5 | |
| Portugal | 4 | 5 | |
| South Africa | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| Spain | 6 | 6 | 3 |
| Uruguay | |||
| Washington | 3 | 4 | 3 |
I purposefully left all regions that were included in the previous years so you get a better picture. As you can see James Suckling’s list was dominated by Italian wines. Wine Spectator had a penchant for California, but not as much as the Wine Enthusiast, where almost 40% of the Top 100 wines came from California. New entrants compared with the previous years were the wines from Georgia and China.
Wine Types
Here is the comparison classified by the wine types:
| Type | JS | WS | WE |
| Dessert | 3 | 1 | 2 |
| Fortified | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| Red | 60 | 67 | 68 |
| Rosé | 1 | 2 | |
| Sparkling | 2 | 2 | 8 |
| White | 33 | 28 | 19 |
As you can see, red wines dominated all of the lists. The last time I did this comparison back in 2021, and compared to that table I had to add a row for the fortified wines. I’m happy to see that all 3 Top 100 lists included at least one fortified wine. Also, Wine Enthusiast included a good number of sparkling wines, with most of them coming from Oregon out of all places (and those will be even harder to find than Champagne due to a very limited production).
Ratings
Ratings continue to be radically different between all three lists. James Suckling ratings don’t go lower than 97, and Wine Spectator’s top rating was 98 with only a single showing.
| Rating | JS | WS | WE |
| 100 | 20 | ||
| 99 | 58 | 1 | |
| 98 | 17 | 1 | 3 |
| 97 | 5 | 8 | 13 |
| 96 | 6 | 19 | |
| 95 | 12 | 16 | |
| 94 | 19 | 16 | |
| 93 | 17 | 22 | |
| 92 | 11 | 8 | |
| 91 | 10 | 2 | |
| 90 | 16 |
I don’t know why there is such a disparity in ratings, but that makes this comparison even more interesting.
Prices
Prices are always an interesting subject, and the presentation of the prices was different this year among all 3 lists. Wine Spectator had prices for all wines included in the description – I can only assume those are suggested retail prices. James Suckling had no prices listed but instead had prepared links for the Wine Searcher to retrieve a current market price for each wine – which makes sense as many of these wines might be on the market for a while and might command premium even before they were included in the Top 100 lists. Wine Enthusiast had prices listed for most of the wines, and also had buying links for all of the wines that were tailored to a specific source – some to Wine.com, some to Wine Searcher.
In the Wine Spectator’s Top 100, the most expensive wine was priced at $375 (MSRP). 19 wines on the list were priced at $100 or higher. The least expensive wine was only priced at $12 (#49 on the list). There were 6 wines on the list priced under $20, a very reasonable number. The top 10 wines, if you could find and buy them all at once, would cost you $1,032.
The most expensive wine on James Suckling’s list was priced at $407 (market price). Only 37 wines were priced at less than $100, which makes 63 wines to be priced above $100 – again, keep in mind that these are market prices according to wine-searcher, so YMMV. The least expensive wine and the only one under $20 was priced at $17, however, interestingly enough, it was wine #2 on the Top 100 list. The top 10 wines combined would cost you $677.
Lastly, the Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100. The most expensive wine was also the most expensive among all 3 lists, priced at $612. 33 wines were priced above $100, so 67 wines were priced at less than $100. The least expensive wine and the only one under $20 was priced at $19 (wine #35, price from wine-searcher). The top 10 wines would cost you $1,100.
Conclusion
I was happy to see lots of familiar – not just familiar, but rather, favorite – producer names sprinkled across the lists. Turley Zinfandel as #14 on Wine Spectator’s list, Carlisle Zinfandel as #21, San Felice Chianti, Calera, Elena Walch; Lopez de Heredia and Cayuse Bionic Frog on the James Suckling list; Inniskillin Cab Franc Ice Wine and Wente Vineyards on the Wine Enthusiast list. I’m sure you will find lots of familiar names too.
I hope you are having as much fun looking through the data I presented here as I had compiling it. There is nothing to be concluded from this exercise, but I find it fun. If you think there is any other data you would like to see as part of this analysis – I will be happy to oblige.
Enjoy!
Asti: Everyday Wine You Love To Drink But Afraid To Admit It
Let me ask you a favor: can you please be honest with me?
No, scrap that. Can you please be honest with yourself?
When/if you read this, can you honestly answer a question for yourself: do you like sweet wines?
Be honest with yourself. This is strictly between you and you. Nobody will ever know what you will say. But if you do, have at least the courage to admit it to yourself – “yes, I like sweet wines”.
We are afraid of sugar. When we consume it, we prefer not to even think of it. We are so ashamed at the thought that someone might think we like sugar. You are supposed to hate sugar. We are supposed to enjoy things that are not associated with sugar. Sugar is bad news. Period. This is why nobody would ever want to publicly admit they like sweet wines, as they are evil.
Even if you are not afraid to admit to your affection, sweet wines are a special category. It seems that even the smallest bottle is usually too big. And by the time the dessert is served, nobody wants to drink more wine. But leaving that aside, there is a critical element for the sweet wine to be called enjoyable. I’m sure you can easily guess it, but I will give you a moment to think about it.
Got it?
That element is important across all wines, but in the sweet wines it is really critical – and this element is balance. Balance of all elements can make or break any wine, but in sweet wines, it has to be impeccable for the wine to be enjoyable. The sweetness must be balanced by acidity. If it is not, the wine becomes simply cloying, and not enjoyable (yes, I’m talking about lack of acidity in the sweet wines – never tasted the one with too much acidity). And perfectly balanced sweet wine becomes an ultimate indulgence. Perfectly balanced sweet wine is so sensual, so seductive that… well, I better let your imagination run wild.
Now, is there a way to make this sweet wine experience better? Of course – what if we will add some fizz to this perfectly balanced sweet wine? And make it affordable? And reduce the amount of alcohol – not eliminate, but simply reduce? Would you enjoy it every day? I’m sure the answer is yes. And I have a wine to suggest which will perfectly fit this profile – Asti wines from Northern Italy.
Source: Consorzio Asti DOCG
Source: Consorzio Asti DOCG
Source: Consorzio Asti DOCG
Sweet wines of notice were produced around the towns of Asti and Alba in southeastern Piedmont as early as the 17th century using a grape called Moscato Bianco. It is possible that the wines were produced even earlier, as Moscato Bianco had been growing in Piedmont as long as the Piedmont’s king was, Nebbiolo. The Classic Method of Champagne production has traveled to Piedmont and the first sweet classic sparkling wine was produced in the region in 1870. After the Martinotti method of producing sparkling wines in the tank instead of the bottles was invented in 1895 by Federico Martinotti, it quickly displaced Methode Champenoise as less expensive and significantly less time-consuming. The same method is used in the production of Prosecco. Oh, and look at these beautiful vineyards…
Source: Consorzio Asti DOCG
In 1932, Consorzio per la Tutela dell’Asti (Consortium for the Protection of Asti) was established to develop and ensure the guidelines for the production of Asti wines, known at that time as Asti Spumante. Things were going well until Asti Spumante became a victim of its own success. After World War II, American soldiers coming back were bringing light, sweet, fizzy Asti wines with them, bringing a surge in popularity. As the history of many wine regions shows (Chianti, Amarone, Australian wines at the beginning of the 2000s), such an increase in demand leads to overproduction and a dramatic drop in quality – exactly what happened with the Asti wines which subsequently lost their popularity due to poor quality.
Moving forward, Asti had to redefine itself, step by step. When Asti Spumante DOC was promoted to DOCG status in 1993, producers decided to ditch the Spumante portion of the name, becoming simply Asti instead of Asti Spumante. Producers also changed their production methods and quality controls, often moving towards a less sweet, drier style. The consortium also established a maximum yield for the grapes’ harvest and minimum alcohol levels that need to be achieved after fermentation.
While Asti wines are perfectly enjoyable on their own, they also make one of the very best food-pairing wines. Craving spicy food? Asti will work perfectly with that. Something substantial and salty? Bring on the Asti. Maybe most importantly – and uniquely – Asti wines are incomparable when it comes to pairing with desserts. If you never experienced a glass of Asti with an apple tart or a peach cobbler, you are missing on some of the greatest pleasures in life – you really should try it next time.
As Consorzio is expanding its presence in the US, I had an opportunity to sit down (virtually) with Consorzio per la Tutela dell’Asti Director Giacomo Pondini and ask him a few questions about Asti wines. Here is what transpired in our conversation.
[TaV]: What is the history of wine production in the region? Is Moscato Bianco the only grape that has been cultivated in the region? What kind of wines were produced there before the introduction of sparkling wines in 1865?
[GP]: As in many other places around Europe, the Romans have imported the wine production in Piedmont. And since then, it has thrived. Beyond Moscato Bianco, the historical grapes in the region are red varieties: Barbera, Freisa, Nebbiolo. Probably the most important step towards a more modern style of winemaking, at that time, was made by Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour. Before becoming a fundamental politician in Italian history, he devoted himself to the production of a wine based on Nebbiolo, named Barolo. In the history of Asti wines, the production of vermouth has laid the economical basis for developing the sparkling wine industry, based on Moscato Bianco grapes.
[TaV]: What is the difference between Asti Spumante DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG wines?
[GP]: The main difference lies in the pressure – Asti Spumante, a proper sparkling wine, has to have at least 3.5 bar pressure, while Moscato d’Asti, which is a fizzy wine, 2.5. Then the difference lies in the residual sugar, higher in Moscato d’Asti, where sugars are less fermented and, therefore also less alcohol.
[TaV]: I understand that Asti Spumante wines can be produced using Classic and Charmat methods. What are the styles of Asti Spumante wines produced in the region, the official classification?
[GP]: The classification goes from pas dosè to sweet. Historically speaking, the sweet typology was the only one allowed until 2017, when extra dry, dry, demi-sec were introduced. From 2020, pas dosé, extra brut and brut were also authorized.
[TaV]: What are the best food pairings for the Asti Spumante wines? I know that in Sauternes in France, the region famous for its sweet wines, it is possible to have a full dinner paired with sauternes wines, from appetizer through the dessert. Is it possible to do the same with the Asti Spumante wines? If yes, can you share a sample menu for such a dinner?
[GP]: We know that in many countries Moscato d’Asti and Asti spumante are paired with a wide range of food: from the traditional desserts to cheese, from barbecue to Thai soups, to raw fish and curry.
Source: Consorzio Asti DOCG
[TaV]: What is the annual production of the Asti Spumante wines across all styles and including both DOCGs? How many producers and grape growers are in the region? Any other statistics you would want to share?
[GP]: In 2022 the annual production has reached 102 million bottles, 60% Asti Spumante and 40% Moscato d’Asti. Around 3,000 grape growers and 250 producers.
[TaV]: What countries are the main importers of the Asti Spumante wines? What percentage of annual production is going for export versus domestic consumption?
[GP]: Export covers 90% of the production, both for Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti. The main export markets for Asti Spumante are the USA, Russia, Great Britain, and Germany; USA by far is the most important market for Moscato d’Asti.
[TaV]: What is ahead of the Asti Spumante wines, let’s say, over the next 10 years?
[GP]: In commercial terms, an increasing presence in the Asian markets, while also growing the value and the perception. And also, a reason to visit Langhe-Roero Monferato, the area of production in Piedmont, UNESCO world heritage.
[TaV]: Sustainability and organic viticulture – are they used in the region? What percentage of the producers practices sustainable viticulture? Same for the organic?
[GP]: Around 25% of the growers are sustainable or moving in that direction. As a Consorzio we have just started the process of becoming a “sustainable territory”, a certification that involves all the grape growers and wineries in our area of production.
[TaV]: If someone had never had an Asti Spumante wine, how would you convince that person to try the wine for the first time?
[GP]: The aromatic profile of Asti Spumante, as well as Moscato d’Asti, cannot be found in any other wine. An immediate pleasure that makes these wines suited for any pairing or in any joyful moment.
I had an opportunity to taste several Asti wines of different styles – dry (it is Asti dry, not Champagne Brut Nature dry), sweet, sparkling and still. Acidity rules the pleasure in Asti wines – as long as the wine has enough acidity, all of the sweet elements – peaches, apricots, apples, pears, honey – will appear utmost delicious. As a reference, here are the wines I tasted and am happy to recommend – the first two being the most favorite:
NV Acquesi Asti DOCG (7% ABV)
NV Capetta Asti DOCG (7% ABV)
NV BOSCA Esploro Secco (dry) Asti DOCG (11% ABV, sugar 17–23 g/l)
NV Giacomo Scagliola “SiFaSol” Moscato d’Asti Canelli DOCG (5.5% ABV)
NV Bersano Monteolivo Moscato d’Asti DOCG (5.5% ABV)
NV Cascina Cerutti Siri Sandrinet Moscato d’Asti DOCG (5.5% ABV)
NV Matteo Soria Bric Prima Bella Asti DOCG Extra Dry (12% ABV)
2022 Vittorio Bear Moscato d’Asti DOCG (5% ABV)
NV Sanmaurizio SATI Asti DOCG Secco (11.5% ABV)
NV Arione Asti DOCG Extra Secco (12.5% ABV)
NV Tosti Asti DOCG (12% ABV)
NV Bussi Piero Moscato d’Asti DOCG (5.3% ABV)
Before we part, let me ask you something.
Are you convinced now that sweet wines are not evil, or do you still need more convincing? Let’s do a simple math here. A typical glass of Asti wine contains between 8 and 12 grams of sugar (dry Asti will have only about 4, but let’s leave dry Asti aside for now). That same glass of Asti, at 5% ABV, will have about 7 grams of alcohol (1 standard wine glass is 5 oz, which is equal to 142 (rounded up) grams, 5% from 142 is 7.1). According to the formulae I presented in this post, considering that 1 gram of sugar has 4 calories, and 1 gram of alcohol has 7, that glass of Asti will cost you 4*12+7*7 = a whopping 97 calories. Plus lots and lots of pleasure. Considering that a can of Coke has 140 calories, what would you choose?
The choice is yours, of course, but my choice would be pleasure. Any day. Wine should give you pleasure, this is the only reason to drink it, and Asti is good at that.
The holidays are upon us. But even between the holidays, you have to celebrate every day whose name ends with the “y”. And please promise me that you will try a glass of Asti with dessert. You owe it to yourself. Please…
Let’s drink sweet wines and to the sweet wines. There is nothing to be ashamed of. Cheers!
American Pleasures #10: Meyye Wines
Wine should give you pleasure – there is no point in drinking wine if it does not. Lately, I have had a number of samples of American wines that were delicious standouts – one after another, making me even wonder if someone cursed my palate. I enjoyed all those wines so much that I decided to designate a new series to them – the American Pleasures.
And we are back to talk about more delicious American wines.
Rob Campbell got into winemaking in 1992 when he started helping his future father-in-law Bruce Tichenor at Story Winery in Plymouth, California. 20 years and three other careers later, Rob decided that it was the time to go into the winemaking all the way, taking over the wine-making at the Story Winery. While producing award-winning wines at the Story Winery, Rob realized that he could also produce ultra-premium wines, capitalizing on the success of his 2014 Zinfandel. When the family decided to sell Story Winery in 2019, Rob finally got an opportunity to start making the wines he had always dreamt of, and he founded Meyye Wines.
With Meyye Wines, Rob wanted to honor his Native American heritage. Rob Campbell is a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria (Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo), the tribe is based in Rohnert Park, California, which lies within Sonoma County. Meyye (pronounced may-yea) means ‘bird’ in the Coastal Miwok language, and the first 4 wines that Rob started producing are all called after the birds native to the different regions where Rob was sourcing the fruit from, using native Miwok names for the birds. You can also appreciate the beauty of these wine labels which started as photographs taken by acclaimed wildlife photographer Steve Zamek, expertly rendered to create a three-dimensional representation of an image of each bird.
As Rob explains:
“Native Americans have been making wine in California for over 250 years. I descend from multiple Mission Indians who worked vineyards or made wine in three different California missions in the 19th century (Mission San Jose, Sonoma, and San Rafael). I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it. In addition to being ultra-premium wines that taste great, it’s my small way of preserving our language by sharing it with native and non-native people alike. “
I had an opportunity to taste 4 of Rob’s wines, and they were literally one better than the other. I’m also sure you would be able to recognize the names of the vineyards and appreciate the pedigree of these wines.
Here are my notes:
2022 Meyye Wines Kuluppis Chardonnay Sonoma County Los Carneros (13.7% ABV, $55, Sangiacomo vineyards, Kuluppis pronounced kuh-luu-pee; Anna’s hummingbird)
Light golden
Immediately upon opening – rich, opulent, butter, vanilla and tropical fruit on the nose, buttery toast on the palate, big, rich, hedonistic.
Literally 30 seconds later – a lot more restrained and leaner wine, all butter is gone, just some apples left. Well, no, there is still butter, just the toast is gone 🙂 nice and elegant, well balanced. Some perceived bitterness on the palate. Let’s see how it will develop.
Second day showed some honey notes and improved balance. Overall – excellent.
8+
2016 Meyye Wines Palachchak Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley (15.5% ABV, $70, 90% Zinfandel, 10% Syrah, Palachchak pronounced pah-lah-chak; red-headed acorn woodpecker)
Dark chocolate and black currant, intense and beautiful
Blackberries and blueberries on the first day,
Dark chocolate with a touch of pepper, cherries, good structure, full body, clean acidity, good balance. Lasted for 4 days. Became a bit more round.
8
2021 Meyye Wines ‘Omay Pinot Noir Sonoma County Petaluma Gap AVA (13.9% ABV, $75, 100% Pommard Clone, Sangiacomo Vineyard, ‘Omay pronounced oh-may; brown pelican)
garnet
Smoke and plums, classic CA Pinot
Black Plums, violets, lavender, clean acidity, medium to full body – delicious.
8
2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok Red Blend Sierra Foothills (14.5% ABV, $60, 50% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah, 9% Counoise,
3% Zinfandel, Sokootok pronounced show-koh-tock; California quail)
Dark Ruby
Dark fruit, hint of minerality, sweet cherries, herbs
Black and red fruit, medium body, well-integrated tannins, good acidity, then tannins grip the finish – in a nice, but assertive way. This will develop nicely over the next 10-15 years.
8+, delicious.
Here you go, my friends. Another story of American Pleasures – delicious wines well worth seeking. And Meyye wines you will actually have to seek, due to their ultra-low production, so good luck to you.
Until the next time – cheers!
Wines of Uruguay: Delicious, Interesting, Unique
Uruguay is the second-smallest country in mainland South America (only Suriname is smaller than Uruguay). It also has the highest level of education in South America, and the highest level of beef consumption in the entire world – and cows outnumber people in Uruguay 4 to 1.
Uruguay also makes world-class wines.
There are 14, 804 acres of vineyards in Uruguay, occupying an area a little bit bigger than Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux and a little bit smaller than Alexander Valley in California. Uruguay is the only South American winemaking country whose terroir is affected by the Atlantic Ocean. It is also interesting to note that the vineyards of Maldonado, the largest winemaking region in Uruguay, are planted above some of the oldest rocks on earth, the Río de La Plata craton, which is 2.5 billion years old. Currently, there are 168 wineries in Uruguay, producing 70 million bottles annually.
Bodega Garzón. Source: Uruguay Wine
Uruguay is best known for its Tannat wines, and Tannat occupies about 27% of all the area under vine in Uruguay. Actually, Merlot is the second most planted variety, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Marselan, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Albariño, and others. There are also six main winemaking regions in Uruguay – Northern Shore, Southern Shore, Metropolitan, Oceanic, Center, and North, each divided into subregions. There are also five distinctive terroirs across these six winemaking regions, influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, rivers, amounts of rain (these can differentiate widely), and winds.
For more grapey details and the latest statistics, I need to refer you to the Uruguay Wine website, where we will talk about delicious, interesting, and unique.
The last time I tasted Uruguayan wines was about a year and a half ago. This year, I had a “double exposure” to the wines from Uruguay – Tannat red wines at the beginning of the year, and then the whites a few weeks ago. So the delicious part is easy, as many of the wines were simply delicious. Interesting and unique require some explanations.
Typically, when it comes to food (and wine), “interesting” is rarely a positive descriptor. However, in our case, it is also not negative, and it really should be processed together with unique. The white wines were interesting, as while they were made from the familiar grapes (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Albariño), they didn’t taste much like familiar grapes, maybe with the exception of the Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier to some degree. Another unique trait of this group was in the fact that the wines kept evolving for probably 2 weeks after being first opened, mostly just getting better and rounder as time passed. I have some reflections on this in the notes, so this is what you will see below.
Here are my notes:
2023 Famile Lahusen Riesling Los Cerros de San Juan (12.3% ABV, $25) – the oldest winery in Uruguay, producing wines since 1854.
Straw pale
Herbs, Meyer lemon
Sweet fruit on palate, doesn’t taste like Riesling at all. Better tasting on the 3rd day, a bit more balanced.
Not bad, 7+
It actually became better over the next few days, getting to an 8- rating, but by no means this is your classic Riesling…
2024 Traversa Sauvignon Blanc Montevideo (13.5% ABV, $16)
Light Straw pale
Citrus, freshly cut grass, delicate, inviting
A touch of freshly cut grass, but mostly whitestone fruit on the 3rd day.
8-, enjoyable.
2013 Viña Progreso Bodega Experimental Overground Viognier Progreso Region (12.5% ABV, $26)
Straw pale
Interesting nose with a hint of brown butter notes, hints on plumpiness of the wine (day 3)
A hint of butter on the palate, quickly displaced by cut-through acidity. The wine had a lot more Viognier aromatics on the 1st day, but now feels like a nice Chardonnay (in blind tasting this would be my only guess)
8, very nice. One of my favorite whites of the tasting.
2024 Bouza Albariño Uruguay (12.5 % ABV, $28)
Straw pale
Perfumy, flowery nose with tropical fruit notes
Guava, a tropical fruit on the palate. Missing characteristic acidity and salinity. Not a bad wine, but doesn’t sing “Albariño” for me
7+
2023 Garzón Single Vineyard Albariño Maldonado (14% ABV, $35)
Light golden
Second day nose – hint of gunflint, butter, a distant hint of honey (first day the smell was not great)!
Second day palate – excellent, salinity, acidity, very much resembling a classic Albariño, still with a distant hint of kerosene, but now it can be ignored. The first day was chemically undrinkable.
8, needs time
2024 Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Albariño Uruguay (12.3% ABV, $20)
Greenish/very light golden color
On the first day, the nose was very sweet. Second day- less sweet, tropical fruit.
Sweet but now with salinity coming through – this is on the second day. The first day the wine was cloyingly sweet.
7+, it is drinkable, but don’t try pairing oysters with it.
And now, for the reds:
2018 Alto de La Ballena Reserva Tannat Viognier Maldonado Uruguay (14% ABV, 85% Tannat, 15% Viognier)
Dark garnet, almost black
Dark cherries, tobacco, inviting
Tart cherries, minerality, crisp acidity, well integrated tannins, a bit of chalk, perfectly balanced
8+ – happy to see that I continue liking this wine the year after tasting it for the first time (last year’s notes can be found here)
2020 Cerro del Torro Tannat Maldonado Uruguay (15% ABV)
Dark garnet
A hint of a barnyard, herbs, dark fruit
Cherries, earthiness, pronounced minerality, a hint of tobacco, good acidity, tart finish.
7+/8-
2021 Garzón Tannat Reserva Uruguay (14% ABV)
Dark garnet
Ripe dark fruit, stony minerality, herbs, distant hint of barnyard
Dark fruit, espresso, cherries, firm structure, clean acidity, round, well balanced.
8-/8
2020 Pisano RPF Tannat Reserva Personal de la Familia Uruguay (14% ABV)
Dark Ruby
Red fruit, herbs, medium+ intensity
Tart, crisp, tart cherries, medium body, firm structure, cut-through acidity.
8-, food wine more than anything.
If you took a moment to glance at the notes, I’m sure you found them all – delicious, interesting, and unique. The whites definitely need some additional work, but they are unquestionably interesting, and I do mean it in a positive way. There are plenty of simply delicious wines from Uruguay, definitely worth seeking, so I hope that I encouraged you to give them a try when you have an opportunity. Cheers!
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