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15 Years of Blogging
Wine, food, and life.
This story started 15 years ago when…
Nah…
Well, wait. This is actually true. This blog should’ve started at least 17 years ago, as some of my friends suggested. Then, of course, there was a fear of the unknown, “should I or should I not” inner voice fighting, and slow warming up to “I guess I can at least try… what is the worst thing that can happen?”. In March of 2010, I finally told the world that the new wine blog was coming (here is the link to the very first post on this blog). Four months later, in July of 2010, this blog finally took off.
I love numbers, so for this post, I wanted to share some Talk-a-Vino 15 years stats:
- 1,553 – number of published posts (it averages to 100+ a year, even though earlier years saw a lot more posts than the late ones)
- 1,556,337 words written (only in posts, not including comments; this was a fun project of figuring it out)
- 10,202 comments posted (that includes my replies as well)
- Pinot Noir is the most talked about grape with 79 posts, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (70) and Chardonnay (55).
- Wine Quiz is still the most popular category with 257 posts, even though I have not been running the series for many years now.
- 640,293 spam comments protected against by Akismet according to the WordPress.com dashboard – this one is the most impressive number 🙂
When I started writing this blog, I was pondering the question – who do I write this blog for? After spending some time researching what others think, I came to a simple conclusion – I will be writing this blog for myself. I will be the one who has to like the posts first and foremost – of course, it would be wonderful to find some soulmates, people who would enjoy reading what I wrote, but I wouldn’t do anything special to find them, “just be myself,” as they like to say.
As an engineer at the core, I wanted my posts to be organized, so I came up with a concept of “series”. I was also very ambitious – for example, one of the series was called Daily Glass – as I drink wine daily, this series was supposed to talk about those daily wines. To date, I have 84 posts in that category – not exactly a daily activity. However, I still find the concept of the series helpful, at least personally, as it delivers the big picture. Usually, the names of the series are self-explanatory, as with the Daily Glass, so I don’t need to explain what “Restaurant Files”, “One on One with Winemaker”, “American Pleasures” (well, this one is actually about great American wines), or “Travel Diaries” actually mean.
Wine, food, and life.
This blog became a place where I store wine, food, and life experiences. There are notes for thousands of wines. There are restaurant experiences and recipes. You can find my travel diaries, whether visiting Japan, Israel, Paris, or my own neighbourhood, all illustrated with countless pictures. Tasting rare grapes is another passion, spurred by being bitten by the Wine Century Club bug – the rare grape experiences are collected throughout these pages, as I continue that Wine Century Club journey. Then there are even more experiences I love to collect, such as tasting wines from as many US states and as many countries as possible.
When I started blogging, the plan was to share my opinion and my opinion alone. When at the first Wine Bloggers Conference I attended, I heard seasoned wine writers saying “interview, interview, interview”, this was completely lost on me. What interviews? Why should I ask someone questions and then try to repeat the conversation in the format of a blog post? Little by little, conversation after conversation, the “aha” moment happened, and you can now find 40 or so conversations with the winemakers and wine people, the interviews. Among those, there is a series called Stories of Passion and Pinot, dedicated to the people who made the finicky grape their passion, most of them coming from Oregon.
And I also have to mention two of my perennial favorites. In my 15 years of blogging, I haven’t missed a single year with my Wine News and Updates, always published on April 1st, always filled with the most sensational happenings in the world of wine (if you have some time, check them out!). Another favorite is the list of the Top Wines of the Year, also published every year from 2010 through 2024. Originally envisioned as being only Top 10, then Top 12 (a dozen), the Top Lists usually reach at least 24 wines, but hey, this is my blog, my rules, and I can break my own rules.
I’m definitely enjoying my journey of 15 years, and I can only hope that I was able to share the joy with you on some occasions. Let’s raise our glasses to Wine, Food, and Life. Cheers!
Celebrate Chardonnay! 2025 Edition
Okay, I missed it again.
On Thursday, May 22, we celebrated Chardonnay Day. And I didn’t post about it.
Well, I didn’t entirely miss it. There was Charodnnay in my glass, so I only missed writing about it on time, but the celebration itself – yes, I participated.
Chardonnay is one of my favorite grapes. Well, those who know me understand that this is a difficult thing for me to say. I love wine in general, and therefore, I really don’t have grapes I don’t like. I might not be a fan of some producers, but grapes or varietal wines per se—I love them all. And yet, when it comes to favorite grapes, I have to shortlist Chardonnay among 20-30 ones I feel comfortable calling “favorites”.
Chardonnay is one of the most versatile grapes, perfectly capable of creating delicious wines from the bone-dry, unoaked versions to the full-on, hedonistic bombs. Chardonnay wines can be wonderful in still, sparkling, and even late harvest renditions, and they are produced literally everywhere – Asia, Middle East, Europe, North America, South America – see, I’m not even trying to be any more region specific, as it is pointless, or I would almost have to name every appellation in existence.
I also have another proof of the “favorite” status. In last year’s Chardonnay’s celebratory post, I counted the number of times Chardonnay wines were included in the Talk-a-Vino Top Wines of the year lists. During 14 years, there were only two years when Chardonnay wines were not present in the top two dozens, and a total of 19 Chardonnay wines were included in those top lists. Then, last year, 2024, the top wines list had 3 Chardonnay wines in it, including the 2024 wine of the year – an Italian Chardonnay from Banfi.
The pleasure of the well-made Chardonnay starts from the very first whiff from the glass. Vanilla, fresh apples, a touch of butter, and, if you are lucky, the honey. This is what makes me say “ahh” in the first place. And then, when vanilla, apples, butter, honey, smothered with a touch of lemon, continue in the first sip, this is where you say “oh my god…”. The key to this Chardonnay pleasure is in full harmony and balance of the flavors – if any of the components sticks out or is absent, this is where the pleasure instantly stops. Of course, the balance is a key element of any wine, but some of the wines can get away with too much acidity or too much oak and still give you pleasure, including a generic Chardonnay. But the harmony and balance are what differentiate a great Chardonnay from an average one.
I also love to use great Chardonnay as a reference point. For example, I compared my 2022 wine of the year, 2020 Abadia Retuerta L’Domaine from Ribera Del Duero, a Sauvignon Blanc-based blend, with Chablis. Chardonnay was also my analogy for the 2024 wine of the year, 2020 Mariasy Tokaji Furmint from Hungary, made from Furmint. And a few weeks ago, I had Grande Rocim White from Alentejo in Portugal (I have yet to write about it), made from 100% Portuguese native Arinto grape, which would successfully compete with Puligny-Montrachet I never had.
The wine I opened to celebrate Chardonnay Day was 2022 Maison Matisco Les Buis Saint-Véran AOC (13% ABV), one of my recent WTSO finds. The wine had a beautiful light golden color, and had a perfect Chardonnay profile as I described above – apples, vanilla, a distant hint of honey and butter (the last two might be just my imagination). The same profile continued on the palate, with the addition of the lemon. The wine initially had a slightly bitter aftertaste, which dissipated after a few hours. This wine will not make a list of great Chardonnays here at Talk-a-Vino, but I will be happy to open it any time I crave a Chard.
There, I told you my story. How did you celebrate Chardonnay Day?
Latest Wine News and Updates
There is something always happening in the world of wine. When we hear the word “wine”, of course, we get an instant image of the liquid in the glass. But before and after that liquid in the glass, the world of wine is a business world, and as with any other business, something is always happening in the wine business. Let’s take a look at some of the latest, “hot off the press” developments in the wine world.
Tariffs can’t stop the wine
It is nice to think of wine as something divine and poetic, but at the end of the day, wine has to be paid for, just like cars, TVs, and steaks. For things we pay for, the scary word of the day is “tariff” – we can’t just escape the reality of our lives. The US government floated the idea of setting the tariffs for all European wines at 200%, and that is a scary thought for winemakers and wine consumers alike. Some of the winemakers want to face this challenge head-on – and thus, venerable Champagne houses Dom Pérignon and Krug just announced that they will start production of their famed Champagnes in the US, which will allow them to avoid tariffs altogether. The information is scarce and protected by strong NDAs, but based on anonymous social media leaks, both houses entered into agreements with undisclosed wineries in Oregon to source the fruit and assist in the production of the sparkling wines. Would they be able to call them Champagne? This is the question of the year, of course. I’m sure we will learn more as the story unfolds. Currently, it is expected that both houses will be able to proudly offer “made in USA” Krug and Dom Perignon as early as the 2027 vintage.
Chateau Latour 1982 without alcohol? You got it
It seems that alcohol-free wine is a big trend (not for me, but hey, it is a free world, right?). Until now, the choices of alcohol-free wines had been limited to specifically produced non-vintage wines of unknown pedigree. This is about to change, all thanks to the company that already once revolutionized fine wine consumption. Coravin just announced a new wine preservation system, which not only lets you sip your prized First Growth over many years, but also allows you to remove the alcohol from the wine while it’s been poured! Think about your underage kids being able to enjoy the legendary wines together with the adults at the dinner table. Or even oneself, now being able to consume an unlimited amount of the elixir and then drive with no problems at all. This new Coravin wine preservation system, called Drink Freely, is priced at $899, and it is expected to hit the store shelves before Christmas of 2025. You can visit the Coravin website to sign up for the email updates for the early availability of Drink Freely.
Wine and health
I’m sure you noticed that wine has been assaulted as of late with all the baseless claims about the dangers of wine consumption to your health. Despite all the wealth of the previous research, talking about the benefits of moderate wine consumption, it seems that beating wine down became a favorite pastime of many medical “scholars.” The World Health Organization (WHO) has been one of the staunch critics of wine consumption and alcohol in general. In a stunning reversal of events, the WHO published the results of a 10-year-long lifestyle study, concluding that moderate wine consumption, up to 2 glasses of wine per day, had shown improved mental capacity, reduced stress, and boosted immune system defences among experiement’s subjects, compared with the control group. The findings were so profound that the WHO Director-General, Dr. Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, called the wine “an elixir of life” in his quote. Again, this was quite an unexpected endorsement, but who can argue with success?!
Vines under water
Rising sea levels are definitely a concern for many wineries, especially those located in the coastal areas around the world. What will happen if the vineyards go underwater? What if it is possible to successfully grow grapes in the vineyards at least partially, or potentially, completely submerged in water? The University of the Basque Country in Spain teamed up with famed UC Davis in California and several wineries in the Rias Baixas area to research the ability of vines to thrive under water. The first vineyards had been planted in the sea basin near Vigo in Rías Baixas, taking care of protecting young vines from the sea currents and fish. Obviously, Albariño was the first choice of the grape variety to plant, but a number of other Mediterranean grape varieties are also in the play. It is too early to talk about the results, as the project has been going for only 3 years, with the first mentions just leaking into the press, but the chief project scientist, Dr. Maximilian Grape-Seedling, says the early results are encouraging. We are still 3-4 years away from any commercial availability, but we can definitely share the hope for the future of the wine industry.
The wine crypto
Last but not least – we just learned of the first ever wine foray into the world of cryptocurrency. Loïc Pasquet, the winemaker behind the most expensive Bordeaux wine, Liber Pater ($30,000 per bottle upon release), just announced his brand new crypto, $Liber. $Liber will be based on the Ethereum blockchain and will be released at $10,000 a piece, with only 10,000 coins total planned for circulation. The new crypto will be backed by the 2020 vintage of Liber Pater, with 5,000 bottles set aside as collateral for the new cryptocurrency. It will be first available for sale on May 1st, and the demand for the hotly anticipated coin already exceeds 3 times the expected total supply. Each new $Liber owner will receive a 50 ml bottle of 2015 Liber Pater and the certificate of ownership signed by Loïc Pasquet himself. $Liber will be available on all major crypto exchanges such as Coinbase, Robinhood, and others.
And we are done here – all the latest wine news and updates.
Until the next time – cheers!
Fall Colors 2024: Early and Extended
As I love photography, it always gives me great pleasure to share a few pictures on these pages. Fall colors are no strangers here with many posts over the years, so this is what this will be all about.
Continuing the tradition, a few words about Fall 2024. I don’t think I remember the fall so dry – starting from mid-September, we maybe had one day of rain here in New England and surrounding areas. The fall colors started gently arriving at the end of September, but even now (the second half of November) some of the trees are still standing in full beauty.
We had an opportunity to visit a few places in Pennsylvania and New York, so here is a collection of autumn 2024 moments for you:
Beautiful views at Pound Ridge town park in New York:
Next, a few pictures from the Grey Towers in Pocono Mountains and our walk along the Delaware River, all in Pennsylvania:
Here are late October impressions from the Locust Grove Estate in Poughkeepsie in New York, and beautiful Hudson River scenery from the Walkaway over Hudson. By the way, if you are ever in the area, I highly recommend visiting both:
Lastly, a few “home” impressions from Stamford, right from our neighborhood:
Last but not least, I need to mention a couple of wines:
2018 Anaperenna by Ben Glaetzer Barossa Valley (14.5% ABV, 82% Shiraz, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, unfiltered) was superb – layers of dark fruit on the nose and on the palate, peppery undertones, eucalyptus, impeccably balanced, round and polished. I’m definitely not drinking enough of the Australian wines of this level, and I would be happy to fix that.
2021 Le Clos du Caillou Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Unique Vieilles Vignes (14% ABV) was beautiful – earthy black fruit on the nose, round and polished with good structure on the palate, with gobs of cherries, perfect acidity and perfect balance. I’m generally not a big fan of Cote du Rhone as many of the wines from this region are quite underwhelming – but Caillou is a good producer, and I’m glad I grabbed 6 pack from the Last Bottle wines to enjoy this simple but classy red over the next few years.
That’s all I have for you, my friends. How is your fall going?
Latest Wine News and Updates
There is never a dull moment in the world of wine – and there is not enough time in the day to track all the latest happenings. Here is a collection of recent and most notable wine news and updates.
Mars – wine’s next frontier
Yes, it is Mars, the fourth planet from the Sun. What Mars has to do with wine? If you ask Elon Musk, a lot. A relentless entrepreneur now has his sights on the world of wine, and apparently, he found a way to connect wine with another one of his passions – space. It appears that the 4 years long study conducted at UC Davis demonstrated that grown in space, the grapes had shown great potential for developing unparalleled taste profile while offering a substantial yield per vine, enabling the production of top-level wines at somewhat reasonable prices. Elon Musk teamed up with Paul Hobbs who was a consulting winemaker on the UC Davis project, and now he is building a fully enclosed vineyard set that will be delivered to Mars using a Space XM rocket. The vineyard will be installed and managed by the robotic staff, and the first harvest is expected to take place in 2030. The wine will be fully processed on Mars up to the bottling stage and will be delivered to Earth by the same Space XM rocket. No other details are available at the moment.
Screaming Eagle is going to produce what?
Screaming Eagle, the most iconic of all California wineries is secretly working on a new project, and it is not wine. Starting in 2028, the top 10% of the Screaming Eagle mailing list customers will have an opportunity to purchase the Marijuana extract, dissolved in neutral spirit and packaged into 175 ml bottles. The Marijuana plants are growing right between the Cabernet Sauvignon vines at Screaming Eagle vineyards. The plants are harvested by hand and processed within 3 hours of arrival to the winery, to retain absolute freshness. By growing in such symbiotic conditions with grape vines, marijuana plants acquire unique tasting characteristics and the elixir earned lots of praise from the focus group involved in the testing of this new product. The availability will be extremely limited. The pricing had not been publicly disclosed yet.
Coravin + AI =
Coravin, the utmost innovator and maker of wine tech gadgets teamed up with Google and Nvidia to add AI technology to the new top-tier A+W wine preservation systems. Each A+W device will be equipped with a Nvidia chip and connected to the Google AI cloud. The A+W device will be conducting real-time organoleptic analysis of the wine and the results will be further processed by the AI cloud to be able to assess the aging of the wine and drinking habits of the Coravin customers. All collected data will be also shared with the producers. It is expected that the next model of A+W will be able to detect non-ideal serving conditions of the wine and heat, cool, or filter the wine as needed for the optimum taste while the wine is being poured. Coravin’s chief scientist also predicts that at some point the Coravin devices will become smart enough to talk to each other and share their owner’s stories.
Amazon wine
Amazon finally decided to join the wine fray and start producing its own wines. Well, it is too early to talk about Amazon vineyards – for now, Amazon teamed up with Washington’s hallmark producer, Chateau St. Michelle to produce wine under Amazon labels. Amazon decided to use creative names for their wines, so the inaugural release will see “Mine is Better” Merlot, “Mine is Bigger” Cabernet Sauvignon, “Bottoms Up” Chardonnay, and “Sugar Rush” dessert wine.
Also taking the wine story even further, all the wine mentions in the Kindle books will become clickable in the text and readers will be able to order wines mentioned in the books with one click directly from their Kindle device. Inadvertent orders might be a concern here, so 007 readers, beware – Bollinger Champagne recently increased in price…
Wine G to Z
A concern about Gen Z not being interested in wine had been widely circulated throughout wine industry publications. E & J Gallo Winery, the biggest wine producer in the US, decided not to leave the wine story of Gen Z to a chance. E&J Gallo developed a special application called WineGZ to allow Gen Zs to fully customize their wine experience. As project director, Lotta Drinkin, explained “Gen Zs of the verified drinking age based on their country of residence will be able to fully customize their wine experience by selecting grapes, type, material and shape of the bottles, and many other characteristics to their exact liking”. For example, the grapes can be chosen strictly based on the carbon footprint of the vineyards, the ESG rating of the country of origin, and the social score of the winemaker. There is a choice of material for the bottle from glass to plastic to cardboard to metal to clay, and the shape of the bottle can be round, rectangular, or even “upload your own design” shapes. Based on the initial raving feedback, this project is expected to revolutionize the relationship between Gen Zs and the wine industry.
That’s all I have for you for today, but more news is coming. Cheers to the wine news and updates!
As Expected
Is “expectation” a wine term?
In a direct sense it is not, of course – “expectation” is not the name of the grape, not a wine descriptor, and not the name of the winemaking process. And nevertheless, for anyone who proclaims “serious affection, a.k.a love, a.k.a obsession” to the simple beverage produced from the grape juice, I would argue that “expectation” is a wine term, or at least, a wine-related term.
Expectations start from the very first look at the bottle – even before we see the label, the bottle’s shape and overall appearance initiate a thought process regarding the bottle’s content. Obviously, once we carefully look at the label, our expectations are enhanced further. Okay, young Barolo, I need to get the decanter ready. Ohh, this Sauvignon Blanc is too warm – I need to chill it before the guests arrive.
But then these are not even real expectations. Once you recognize the region, the grape, the producer – this is when the mind games of expectations start. Looking at the bottle of Opus One, Petrus, Penfolds Grange, or Dom Perignon, I’m sure that the mind of an average wine lover goes ballistic – “this is going to be amazing”. The brain would not accept anything less. Even after you try the wine, the brain will interject into the message from your palate if it is anything less than “oh my god, I love this”. But before I mount my favorite horse it appears that there is an idiom “to mount a hobbyhorse” (I hope there is a saying like this in English, as there is one in Russian), let me change the direction to where I’m actually trying to arrive.
As we are discussing the meaning of the wine term “expectations”, it is interesting to see how your expectations are built. Let’s say you tried a bottle of wine from an unknown producer, and you liked it. Then you tried another one. And another one – and I don’t mean in one sitting – slowly over time. As you keep liking the wines, your expectations are being built. You try new vintages, new wines from the same producer and your expectations keep growing. Once you become really familiar with the producer, you take a bottle you never had before, and before even opening it, you are confident that this will be a good wine – you expect nothing less. You might not love each and every wine from a given producer after you try them, but at least in terms of expectations, your ways are set. Just to give you an example, I expect excellent wines from La Rioja Alta, Lopez de Heredia, Field Recordings, Turley, Carlisle, Masciarelli, and lots of others – and yet while I’m writing this post, I’m drinking the wine from Carlisle that I don’t really enjoy at this moment (just opened the bottle, the wine needs to breathe). The fact that I don’t enjoy one particular wine doesn’t affect my general expectations – next time, holding a bottle of Carlisls in my hands, I would fully expect that I will like the wine “at hands”.
A “circle of expectations” is not cast in stone. As we taste wines from the new producer, we build confidence and our expectations are growing to the point of this unconditional trust. Today, I want to share with you one of my latest additions – Domaine Bousquet from Argentina.
Domain Bousquet is not even 30 years old – it was founded in 1997, so in the wine world this is a very short period of time – but take a look at this simple picture above, which perfectly summarises Domain Bousquet’s achievements – Certified Organic with multiple designations, biodynamic Demeter certified, 1st in Argentina and 4 th in the world regenerative organic winery – you can continue researching this very impressive list on your own. But this is the wine we are talking about, so all of the certifications take a back seat to the content of the glass. What’s inside of glass matters – does it give you pleasure or not. And Domaine Bousquet produces damn impressive wines.
I was introduced to the wines of Domaine Bousquet exactly 3 years ago, and that introduction started with their Charmat method sparkling wines – organic, delicious, and inexpensive. Next, in August of the same year, 2021, I had an opportunity to taste an extended lineup of Domaine Bousquet wines, that were also excellent. Earlier this year I was blown away by their unoaked organic wines containing no added SO2, and then one more time in December when I tasted their Classic method sparkling wines which were world-class superb and an absolute steal at $18.
Now, I had an opportunity to taste some of their very best wines. These wines perfectly speak to my obsessed oenophile mind, as they are not even single-vineyard, but rather single-plot wines – and they are produced only in exceptional years. You know that I don’t like quoting the original winery notes, but I feel that in this case it is appropriate:
“Named for Domaine Bousquet co-owner Labid al Ameri, Ameri is not just“single vineyard” but “specific cluster,” and made only in exceptional years. At 1,257m/4,125 ft, the highest of the estate, the certified-organic vineyard, located in Gualtallary in the Andean foothills, gets a perfect combination of near constant intense daytime sunlight and huge day/night temperature differentials. The result is fruit with increased levels of sugar AND acid, flavor, and aromatics.”
Yes, I had expectations regarding these wines. I expected these wines to be well-made and tasty. And my expectations were met. Fully.
Here are my notes:
2020 Domaine Bousquet Ameri Malbec Gualtallary Mendoza Argentina (14.5% ABV, $37, 100% Malbec, 12 months in French oak)
Dark garnet, almost black
Cherries, plums, eucalyptus
Cherries, espresso, firm structure, good acidity, good balance
8, excellent
2020 Domaine Bousquet Ameri Red Blend Gualtallary Mendoza Argentina (14.5% ABV, $37, 60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon,10% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 12 months in French oak)
Dark garnet, almost black
Plums, fresh raspberries, mocha
Cherries, a hint of cassis, eucalyptus, sweet oak, perfectly integrated tannins, firm structure, excellent balance
8, delicious.
Both wines were just perfect from the get-go, but both also lasted for at least 5 days on the counter with the air being pumped out – a testament to the quality.
Here you are, my friends – all-organic, delicious, top-shelf wines from Argentina – delivering the pleasure.
As expected.
Top 23 of 2023
2023 is almost over, which means that the time has come for the hotly anticipated perennial Talk-a-Vino feature – the list of top wine experiences of the year.
2023 was an interesting year for a variety of reasons, some of which are obvious, and some of which are not, but this is not the time and not the place to discuss it. We are here to dreadfully decide on the list of 24 23 best wines of the year – and share that list with you, my readers.
To explain how this top list is created, instead of re-writing the same explanation every year using barely different words, let me just quote what I explained before:
If you are a regular here on these pages, you know the story. Every year ever since this blog started in 2010, I come up with a list of the most memorable, most interesting/unique/unusual/stunning wines I tasted throughout the year. When I started these Top Wine lists, the goal was to identify a dozen (12) top wines. I was rarely successful with such limitation, and most of the Top wine lists consist of two dozen, a few times there were even two dozen plus a few.
As the year already ended, I will not try to separate the first and second dozens of the top wines – without further ado, here is the full list of the 23 most memorable wines of 2023 – and yes, the pun is intended:
23. 2021 Stolpman Vineyard Combe Trousseau Ballard Canyon ($24) – I had no idea Trousseau, a classic red grape from Jura in France is even grown in California, never mind by the Syrah specialist such as Stolpman Vineyard. I ordered this wine at a restaurant in New York as it seemed to be one of a very few somewhat affordable options. The wine was surprisingly brilliant, fresh, light, and uplifting – it was definitely a great find.
22. 2007 Leviathan California Red ($40) – this was my last bottle of the 2007 vintage of this legendary wine, an unofficial second label of Screaming Eagle. Beautiful California Cab that probably has another 20-25 years to go on. No, I wouldn’t want to wait that long.
21. 2019 Le Morette Riserva Lugana DOC ($NA) – this wine was probably my favorite from the Lugana wine tasting events, beautiful white wine with a substance. Going beyond just a specific bottle, consider this entry more a node to the Lugana wines of Northern Italy that represent an outstanding QPR and just a bunch of delicious wines.
20. 2018 Vino Vasai Pinot Noir Estate Reserve Chehalem Mountains ($58) – superbly balanced Oregon Pinot Noir – powerful and delicious, with a label to adore.
19. 2019 Plantaže Crnogorski Krstač Montenegro ($10) – love pleasant surprises. This wine was acquired strictly for being made from the unique grape I have not had before – it also happened to be simple and delicious – I’ll take this bonus any time.
18. 2016 Alban Patrina Estate Syrah Edna Valley ($58) – I don’t believe I ever I had a wine from Alban that I didn’t like – this Syrah was unctuous and delicious.
17. 2015 Carlisle Grenache Rossi Ranch Sonoma Valley ($39) – another favorite producer, Carlisle, with an absolutely delicious wine – beautiful nose and dark fruit intermingling with dark chocolate on the palate.
16. 2022 La Torre Girgentina Maltese Islands IGT ($15) – Similar to wine #19, this wine was acquired strictly to add to the rare grapes collection and to add another winemaking region to the Wines of the World page. The more interesting part was the bright, refreshing, round white wine, simply world-class delicious.
15. 2017 Etude Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills ($NA) – Never paid much attention to Etude Pinot Noir – this wine was presented as a gift. The wine was definitely bigger than a typical Californian Pinot Noir – it was also better than the typical, with layers of dark fruit and cocoa. A tasty encounter.
14. 2018 Amichai by Shiloh Micah Judean Hills Israel ($57) – Shiloh is one of my favorite Israeli producers, but this is not the reason why this wine is listed among the top wines of the year. It is a perfect rendition of Cabernet Sauvignon, round and delicious.
13. 2018 El Coto Coto De Imaz Blanco Reserva Rioja DOC ($24.99) – this wine belongs to the “surprise” group, as I never had a Chardonnay from Rioja. Never mind the surprise part, this was simply delicious Chardonnay, bright and perfectly varietally correct. Pleasure in the glass.
12. NV Capetta Dolce Asti DOCG ($NA) – Asti wines are sooo underappreciated… They are often dismissed as light and sweet, but the whole point is in the balance. Yes, this wine was sweet, and nevertheless, cleansing acidity was making it impossible to put the glass down until the bottle was empty. Similar to the Lugana wines mentioned above, this wine is a nod to Asti wines as a category that is well worth everyone’s attention.
11. 2021 Domaine Bousquet Virgen Natural Malbec Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina ($13) – Domain Bousquet makes excellent wines, for sure. But this unoaked organic malbec, made without any additional SO2 was unexpectedly delicious. Try it for yourself.
10. 2020/2021 Campochiarenti Sant’ Ambrogio Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG (€10) – I had both 2020 and 2021 wines, and couldn’t make up my mind which one do I like more. With or without taking into account an excellent price, this wine offers tremendous value for the money, as I often wish that the wines that cost 10 times more would taste as good as this wine. Another case of pure pleasure in the glass.
9. 1998 Chateau Saint-Nicolas Fronsac AOC ($19.99) – a perfect example of “wine is a living thing”. The wine which tasted like nothing on the first day, evolved into a beauty on the second day. It doesn’t happen always, but hey, give your wine a chance.
8. 2021 La Loggia Toscaia Sangiovese in Bianco Toscana IGT ($14) – I had before white Merlot and white Pinot Noir, but never a white Sangiovese – and this wine didn’t disappoint. It was masquerading a nice Chardonnay – and yet it was delicious in its own unique right.
7. 2019 Sine Qua Non Distenta 1 California White Wine ($150) – big, voluptuous, expressive, delicious. A perfect first experience with the wines of Sine Qua Non.
6. 1999 Beaulieu Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Napa Valley ($30) – delicious wine from a legendary producer. A perfect rendition of the nicely aged Californian Cabernet Sauvignon which will continue to delight for many years, if someone would have enough patience, of course.
5. 2013 Stolpman Vineyards Sangiovese Ballad Canion ($30) – besides the total surprise factor that Stolpman even ever made Sangiovese, this wine tasted perfectly on par with outstanding Chianti that was opened at the same time, just adding a Californian touch to the cherry/leather/tobacco profile. Superb.
4. 2019 Flora Springs Red Wine Blend Napa Valley ($95) – a quintessential Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Bold, voluptuous, unashamed, but impeccably balanced with all components in perfect harmony. A definition of hedonistic pleasure.
3. 2019 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District Napa Valley ($65) – wines of Smith-Madrone are often featured in this blog. Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat was the wine of the year in 2019. This 2019 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon has such impeccable precision of a beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon, varietally correct and incredibly enticing, even coercing you into the nirvana state – yes, this is how good this wine is.
2. 2003 Neyen Espíritu de Apalta Apalta DO Chile ($N/A) – when poured at a table, this is the wine that has the power to stop everyone in their tracks, force them to forget that reality exists, and for a few minutes make everyone to communicate only using nods and smiles. The words are not needed in the presence of such greatness. Tasting this wine was one of the absolutely best experiences of 2023.
1. 2021 Balverne Chardonnay Russian River Valley AVA ($35) – when I tasted this wine for the first time, not only I was blown away, but my first thought was “this will be the wine of the year”. Don’t get me wrong – each and every wine in the top ten of this list would easily qualify for the Talk-a-Vino Wine of the Year position, but still, this wine will stay in my memory for a long time. This wine had a brilliant precision of Chardonnay which doesn’t even let you put your glass down. Truly, you need to experience this wine to share the feeling.
Here you are, my friends. 23 most memorable wines of 2023. Cheers to the new wine discoveries of 2024!
When in Sweden…
Here I am, talking about travel again. Well, this will be mostly about wine, but let’s talk about travel first.
This was my third time visiting Sweden (all three times were for work reasons). My first visit was to Malmo, a town located in the southern part of Sweden close to Copenhagen, and that visit was fully documented here (and here is the bonus part about my day in Copenhagen).
My other two visits were to Gothenburg (also known as Göteborg), the second-largest city in Sweden and the birthplace of Volvo cars. Both times I stayed at the Gothia Towers Hotel. Here comes an interesting (funny?) part. As I made it to the hotel this time, I noticed a large amusement park called Liseberg right across from the hotel entrance, with a Ferris wheel and rollercoasters. While walking with someone to the hotel from the bus stop, I asked if the amusement park was just built, and in response I got a very surprised look and the answer that the park was there even 20 years ago. Turns out my first visit to Gothenburg was in January of 2018, and spending all of the light hours inside the building didn’t give me a chance to see what’s actually around. Kind of funny and strange, I know.
I also remember from the previous visit that I wanted to find a Swedish wine to try. I remember walking into a large liquor store close to the hotel and asking someone if they had any Swedish wine I could buy – and I remember the salesperson telling me apologetically that they didn’t have anything on hand, but that he would be happy to order the wine for me which would take some time to arrive – that, of course, didn’t work for my schedule. Coming back now gave me some sense of hope of finding the local wine to try and adding one more check mark to the Wines of the World table.
Once I got situated at the hotel, my next trip was a traditional walk to the supermarket. For the absolute majority of trips, this is my standard routine – I generally prefer to drink sparkling water in the room, and this is the easiest way to get it (not even the question of least expensive – in many cases, hotels simply can’t supply bottled sparkling water). I’m also always eager to see the wine shelves at the supermarket, to see what is there and at what price. In Sweden, however, it is a bit tricky – alcohol sales are a government monopoly – Systembolaget is the chain of stores that can sell alcohol and liquor in Sweden, and of course, they control the prices and the selection.
I visited the supermarket on Sunday, and Systembolaget stores are simply closed on Sunday (or at least the one I was near in Gothenburg). The supermarket actually offered wine – alcohol-free wine that is. I guess alcohol-free wine is a thing in Sweden, both locally produced (mostly from fruit, not grapes) and imported wines – and imported alcohol-free selection even included some familiar names, such as Campo Viejo, for example – you can see the sample selection in the pictures below:
Apparently, low-alcohol beverages are allowed for sale at the supermarket, as there was a good selection of beer, and I even got a few to enjoy later in the room. Moreover, beer was a drink of choice at many of my dinners – while traveling when it comes to the “by glass” selection, I usually prefer beer as it is generally cheaper than wine and more error-prone. I had a number of good local beers during this trip.
And speaking about dinners, some were good, some were barely okay, and some were absolutely stunning (okay, not “some”, just one), as I already wrote about my visit to SK Mat & Manniscor. Actually, outside of that spectacular dinner, I had the best dish at lunch when we stopped by some random Italian place – the wild mushroom risotto was so good I had to literally stop myself from leaking the bowl (no picture though).
Before I will inundate you with pictures of the wines, just a few images of the town. As I mentioned before, this time around I was able to see the amusement park, and my room on the 17th floor afforded pretty good views as well – here is a little assemblage for you.
As I told you before, finding the Swedish wine was an important mission, so I tried to accomplish that at the first opportunity – I only didn’t realize that Systembolaget simply closes at 7 pm, and my meetings are typically not done until almost 8. The first half of the week went by and Thursday was my last hope before I would have to fly back on Friday. I found a little break in the meetings around 5 pm and went to the store.
The store was nice and spacious. After I made a few circles on my own, I realized that I would need some help finding the Swedish wine I was looking for. I asked the lady working there for help – she didn’t look very confident at first but with the help of the computer she was able to locate 3 different Swedish wines – real wines, with alcohol and made from grapes! (Ah, I’m so easily excitable).
As a general observation, I saw a good number of wines at a reasonable price, around $10 or less (divide the price you see in Swedish krona by 10 or 11 – that will give you the price in dollars).
Some of the bottles looked like fun – if I were going on a hot date, I could’ve settled for this one with the lips:
There was a good selection of reasonably priced Champagne, at least considering how much Champagne now costs in the US:
Lots of reasonably priced wines from Italy, France, and Australia:
And here we are, the culmination point of the search – Swedish wines. These are quite expensive – yes, I understand it is not easy to grow grapes in Sweden.
I settled for the “second cheapest wine”, which amounted to the hefty $45 – but hey, the price we pay for our hobbies…
Once I got into the hotel, I had to find a way to quickly chill the bottle, as it was my last evening to taste it and I had no intention of checking my luggage because of a random bottle. I got ice from the machine, added water, and did my best to submerge the bottle into the tiny ice bucket…
Before we talk about the taste, let’s talk about the wine itself – 2021 Kullabergs Vingård Immelen (13.5% ABV, mostly Solaris grape). The winery is located in the southwest part of Sweden, on the Kullaberg peninsula which is also a nature reserve (sometimes called Cape Kullaberg). The Kullabergs vineyard was planted in 2006. One of the main grapes at the vineyard is called Solaris – the grape selected in Germany in 1975, specifically developed to cope with cold climates. The wine I got from the store was mostly made from Solaris, at least according to the back label, even though the only technical note I found on the website was for Immelen 2019 which had 86% Solaris and 7% each of two other grapes.
The wine was interesting. I wish I was able to fully chill it, but probably at around 55F it was showing a bit heavy, had notes of tropical fruit on the nose, plump and round body on the palate with a hint of grapefruit peel which offered a touch of bitter notes. Good acidity, and not a bad wine overall. It was reminiscent of Marsanne/Roussanne blends from the Southern Rhone if such a comparison would help. I’m happy I had an opportunity to taste this wine, add a checkmark to my wines of the world list, and a rare grape to the Hexavini journey. At $45, it is okay as once in a while exotic experience, but I will not pay this much for this wine a second time.
Here you are, my friends – a quick report from the trip to Sweden, mostly in pictures.
Hey, I heard Finland is starting to plant vines… guess what I will be hunting down next…
Frustration of the Oenophile
We have enough sources of frustration in our lives, so wine shouldn’t be one of them. This statement works fine until you become obsessed with wine. Then it becomes a source of joy, happiness, fun, and, of course, frustration.
The concept of frustration is very personable, there is really nothing objective about it. It is generally a choice – you can decide to get frustrated, or you can choose to ignore whatever bothers you. It is not always that simple, of course.
For example, corked wines are a great source of frustration for oenophiles. A corked bottle bothers me very much, but considering my experience with corked wines is not anywhere near the proverbial 8% (knock on wood), I just accept it as an unfortunate part of the wine world. Plastic corks can be a great source of frustration, and so are the bottles with wax tops when the wax is not done right. We can go on with this list and I’m sure every oenophile can choose what frustrates them the most. Most importantly, we feel frustrated with different things on different days.
What prompted this post was frustration with my own choices. And Cayuse wines.
Many years back I was closely following wine writer W. Blake Gray, who was writing a wine column at that time, I believe, for the San Fransico Chronicle. In one of the articles, he mentioned Cayuse Vineyards wines as possibly the best wines produced in the United States. Talk about influences… These got stuck in my head, and getting my hands on the wines of Cayuse became one of my obsessions. I signed up for the mailing list and stayed on the waiting list for close to 10 years until I finally got on.
Cayuse wines are produced by Christophe Baron, a French-born winemaker who fell in love with the rocky soils of Walla Walla Valley. While Cayuse was his original project which brought fame and recognition, Christophe Baron also started a number of other successful projects – No Girls, Horsepower Vineyards, Hors Catégorie Vineyard, and Champagne Christophe Baron (with this he really went back to his roots as he was born in Champagne). While waiting for Cayuse, I actually managed to get on all other mailing lists – but let’s leave those wines aside for a moment and get back to Cayuse.
I’m sure you are curious to see where the aforementioned frustration is coming from – and let me tell you, it is not related to the long wait. My frustration is tied to the wine itself. How? Easy. I don’t enjoy it.
Here, I said it.
Okay, let’s not generalize. I actually enjoyed very much a 9-year-old wine from Cayuse – 2011 Syrah from En Cerise Vineyard in Walla Walla Valley which I had on Thanksgiving in 2020. I liked the wine so much that it became wine #2 on the Top Wines list of 2020. But this happened once. And a few Cayuse bottles that I opened made me question my choices – and became the source of frustration.
The latest case in point – 2017 Cayuse God Only Knows Armada Vineyard Walla Walla Valley (13.8% ABV). This is 100% Grenache. The wine had somewhat of a muted nose, mostly mineral. At first, the palate had a lot of “liquid rock” power – iodine, pencil shavings, granite, maybe cherry pits. I thought that maybe the wine was too young at 6 years of age, pumped the air out, and let it stand until the next day. The next day didn’t improve the situation much. On the third day, the wine simply became bitter.
When I’m supposedly drinking one of the best wines produced in the US, and I derive no pleasure from it, it becomes concerning. It becomes frustrating. What is wrong with me? How come I can’t appreciate this wine? If I look a the reviews, frustration only deepens. Jeb Dunnuck gave this wine 99 points in 2020, and described it as having a “gorgeous nose of framboise, wild strawberries, sweet mulch, sappy flowers, ground pepper, and liquid violets” – how come I don’t get any of this? Do I have to be a professional wine critic to be able to enjoy the wine? By the way, the continuation of the same review made me say WTF: “This carries to a medium to full-bodied, Burgundian Grenache” – Burgundian Grenache? But Grenache is not produced in Burgundy? Yeah, whatever. The same review also suggests the drinking window between 2021 and 2033, so I’m perfectly in the range. And yet I didn’t enjoy the wine.
I love Grenache wines. Admittedly, many of my great Grenache experiences are connected to Spain, where it is known as Garnacha – how about some Alto Moncayo, for example. I very much enjoy Grenache from France – CdP, Gigondas, other places. Also, California is perfectly capable of producing the most delicious Grenache – we don’t even need to go to the Rhone Rangers – Bokisch and McCay in Lodi do a damn good job representing delicious Grenache. And yet I don’t enjoy what should be one of the best renditions of Grenache in the world. Frustrating.
Cayuse will not be the first “serious” wine I’m unable to enjoy (serious = expensive here, this bottle costs north of $130). Opus One, Joseph Phelps, Corison, Chateau Montelena, many of the Heitz bottlings, Far Niente… There are a number of wines out there I do not seek. But I was really dreaming about getting my hands on Cyuse bottles. This wine was an object of desire and now… this?
I believe Bionic Frog was the wine that made Cayuse famous. Bionic Frog (made from Syrah) is still not a part of my allocation, so I will try to stay the course for now. I will give more chances to Cayuse wines to prove that my latest experience was just a fluke, but I’m afraid I have to leave Cayuse wines aside at the moment and see if time will be able to bring out the pleasure.
Yes, I realize full well that my frustration is the first world problem – and if you have a problem with that, feel free…
For now, I will remain oenophile frustrated.
Latest Wine News and Updates
While wine production is one of the oldest industries in the world, the amount of new, innovative products and scientific breakthroughs in the wine world is nothing short of breathtaking. Let’s take a look at some of the latest news from the field.
Everyone agrees that fake wine is a big problem for the wine industry. There are many tools employed by winemakers to protect the identity of their wines, but the quest for the perfect solution is still ongoing. After 15 years of intensive research, the French INAO (The National Institute of origin and quality), together with the College of Veterinary Medicine at Auburn University in the US announced the successful results of the initial trials of dogs being able to sniff fake wines. As part of the Canine Performance Sciences program, dogs had been trained to identify wines that don’t match the original wine. The training is a very involved process requiring the dog to spend about 2 years at the winery memorizing the original flavor profile of the wines. Once trained, the dogs can easily distinguish the original bottles from the fakes, the same as working dogs who identify illegal substances at customs in airports. The training process is intense and costs about $50K per dog, so this solution is not for every winery. Nevertheless, according to INAO, it will take about 7 years to satisfy all the requests for the dogs received to date.
There are plenty of wine lovers who crave massive, tannin-loaded wines. Such wines are often quite expensive as they require a long aging time in the oak barrels which are costly. What if the oak flavor can be concentrated in the grape itself while it is growing? Impossible, you say? Scientists from UC Davis in California think otherwise. Instead of using the traditional rootstock, UC Davis scientists managed to graft Cabernet Sauvignon vines onto the french Limousin oak rootstock, and after about 7 years of experimentation it seems that resulting wines demonstrate much higher tannin concentration than the wines obtained from the same clone of Cabernet Sauvignon but not grafted on the oak rootstock. Obtaining the same level of tannins would require about 6 months of age for the wines in the control group. Once the research is complete, it will result in significant savings for the wine producers which [hopefully] will be passed on to wine lovers. We should expect to find the first wines based on the results of this research by approximately 2028.
Many wine lovers live with a simple motto – coffee in the morning, wine in the evening. The next news I would like to share with you will, in a way, be related to both beverages. How so? Everyone knows Nespresso, a French company that mastered the simplicity of the perfect cup of espresso at any time with the help of a tiny coffee capsule. Working on a special (very sizeable) grant from French LVMH conglomerate, Nespresso just announced a brand-new machine called – maybe you guessed it – Winepresso. Nespresso scientists found a way to convert the content of the wine bottle to the dry form which is encapsulated in the tiny wine capsule, literally identical to the coffee one. Now, with a push of a button, a perfect glass of your favorite beverage is in your hand at any moment. Based on the opinion of the expert panel, the Winepresso-produced wine is practically identical to the original wine, which is a pretty amazing achievement in itself. The initial set of capsules available upon commercial availability of Winepresso will include two Bordeaux reds, one red from Burgundy, and 3 whites from Loire. It is also known that Nespresso is actively involved in conversations with a few of the famous wineries in Napa Valley. The capsules will be sold in the 5-packs (to be identical to the standard 5 glasses in the bottle of wine). Winepresso machines are expected to appear at select retailers such as Williams-Sonoma and Bloomingdales in time for Christmas shopping. The prices for the capsules and the machines had not been disclosed yet. If successful, you can only imagine how successful this product will be from point of view of sustainability and reduction of the carbon footprint.
Open any news source today, and you are guaranteed to read about ChatGPT, artificial intelligence (AI) software. ChatGPT writes poems, articles, and marketing materials, conducts market research and lots more. It appears that the wine world is starting also to embrace ChatGPT in a variety of ways, many of them quite unexpected. Champagne Piper Heidsieck just announced that they will start a new line of non-vintage Champagne, called Piper Heidsiek AI, where ChatGPT will play the role of the Chef de Cave, responsible for blending the final wines. After the initial offering, both Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs will be produced. While it is an interesting announcement in itself, I’m concerned with the impact of the ChatGPT on all areas of human lives, now including even wine production. Well, we will see how this story will unfold.
That’s all the latest news I have for you, my friends. Until the next time – cheers!
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