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Beautiful Wines of Smith-Madrone
I love the wines of Smith-Madrone.
I’m not even trying to make it a secret.
Yes, I’m biased. But I’m not ashamed of it.
Stu Smith and his brother, Charlie, founded the winery in 1971 in the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley. When Stu was buying a property overflowing with trees, he was told that he was making the mistake of his life. But the best wines are born out of conviction – add perseverance, gamption, hard work, ingenuity, and imagination – just get all of these ingredients, and you might also be able to make some beautiful wines.
I told you that I love the wines of Smith-Madrone. Usually, love doesn’t require proof. But if you insist, I have one – not only I wrote about wines of Smith-Madrone on multiple occasions, but their wines had been included in my Top Wines of the Year lists 4 times – #11 in 2018 (Riesling), #1 (Cook’s Flat Reserve) and #14 (Riesling) in 2019, #3 in 2023 (Cabernet Sauvignon), and #4 in 2024 (Cook’s Flat Reserve). I don’t have any other wines that so consistently appear in the Top Wines lists.
For many years, Smith-Madrone produced only three wines – Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon, with the addition of the Cook’s Flat Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in exceptional years. A few years back, Rosé and Cabernet Franc joined the collection, and I was dying to try them ever since. This year, I finally got my hands on the wines (I rarely ask for samples, but this was one of such rare moments – I did ask…), so now I can share my tasting notes with you.
2019 Smith-Madrone Estate Riesling Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (13.3% ABV)
Light golden
Petrol mixed with honey and honeysuckle, a pure aromatherapy in the glass for a Riesling lover. Crisp, bright, honey with lemon in perfect harmony, clean and crisp finish with lots of energy.
9, a pure delight.
2021 Smith-Madrone Estate Chardonnay Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14% ABV, 10 months in 50% new French oak)
Brilliant golden color
White plums and a touch of vanilla on the nose, a distant hint of gunflint (the wine is almost at room temperature). Apples, a touch of honey, vanilla, more apples, and a cleansing acidity. Delicious.
8+/9-, superb.
2023 Smith-Madrone Estate Rosé Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14.2% ABV, 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc)
Beautiful, bright crimson red
Tart cherries, fresh, on the nose. Light, inviting, elegant.
Beautiful tart cherries on the palate, well present, round, delicious.
8+, delicious Rosé with character
2021 Smith-Madrone Estate Cabernet Franc Spring Mountain District Napa Valley (14.7% ABV, 89% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 months in 60% new French oak)
Dark garnet
Ripe black currant, dark chocolate, fat, juicy, exciting. Delicious, black currant, dark chocolate, a rich California Cab Franc style, bell pepper came in later, together with a beautiful black pepper note, spicy and delicious.
8+/9-
Truth be told, I also got a sample of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – but this is one of my most favorite Cabernet Sauvignons ever, so I couldn’t muster the courage to open the bottle yet, and will be waiting for the right occasion later this year – maybe a Thanksgiving celebration, as I did back in 2018.
I think both Rosé and Cabernet Franc are great additions to the portfolio. Both are produced in small quantities (131 cases of Rosé, 153 cases of Cabernet Franc), and Rosé is already gone (duh, summer is ending), but the Cab Franc is still available. And if we are talking about new additions, maybe we will see a sparkling wine one day? Or wait, I might have even a better idea – how about some late harvest Riesling? Knowing the quality of Smith-Madrone Riesling, if they were ever to produce a dessert-level Riesling, I’m sure it would be an absolute delight. Oh well, maybe one day…
Here you go, my friends. I hope you had a chance to discover the wines of Smith-Madrone for yourself. If you have not, head over to the Smith-Madrone website, admire the scenery of beautiful mountain vineyards, and get a few bottles for yourself to enjoy. I guarantee you will not regret it. Cheers!
American Pleasures #10: Meyye Wines
Wine should give you pleasure – there is no point in drinking wine if it does not. Lately, I have had a number of samples of American wines that were delicious standouts – one after another, making me even wonder if someone cursed my palate. I enjoyed all those wines so much that I decided to designate a new series to them – the American Pleasures.
And we are back to talk about more delicious American wines.
Rob Campbell got into winemaking in 1992 when he started helping his future father-in-law Bruce Tichenor at Story Winery in Plymouth, California. 20 years and three other careers later, Rob decided that it was the time to go into the winemaking all the way, taking over the wine-making at the Story Winery. While producing award-winning wines at the Story Winery, Rob realized that he could also produce ultra-premium wines, capitalizing on the success of his 2014 Zinfandel. When the family decided to sell Story Winery in 2019, Rob finally got an opportunity to start making the wines he had always dreamt of, and he founded Meyye Wines.
With Meyye Wines, Rob wanted to honor his Native American heritage. Rob Campbell is a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria (Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo), the tribe is based in Rohnert Park, California, which lies within Sonoma County. Meyye (pronounced may-yea) means ‘bird’ in the Coastal Miwok language, and the first 4 wines that Rob started producing are all called after the birds native to the different regions where Rob was sourcing the fruit from, using native Miwok names for the birds. You can also appreciate the beauty of these wine labels which started as photographs taken by acclaimed wildlife photographer Steve Zamek, expertly rendered to create a three-dimensional representation of an image of each bird.
As Rob explains:
“Native Americans have been making wine in California for over 250 years. I descend from multiple Mission Indians who worked vineyards or made wine in three different California missions in the 19th century (Mission San Jose, Sonoma, and San Rafael). I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it. In addition to being ultra-premium wines that taste great, it’s my small way of preserving our language by sharing it with native and non-native people alike. “
I had an opportunity to taste 4 of Rob’s wines, and they were literally one better than the other. I’m also sure you would be able to recognize the names of the vineyards and appreciate the pedigree of these wines.
Here are my notes:
2022 Meyye Wines Kuluppis Chardonnay Sonoma County Los Carneros (13.7% ABV, $55, Sangiacomo vineyards, Kuluppis pronounced kuh-luu-pee; Anna’s hummingbird)
Light golden
Immediately upon opening – rich, opulent, butter, vanilla and tropical fruit on the nose, buttery toast on the palate, big, rich, hedonistic.
Literally 30 seconds later – a lot more restrained and leaner wine, all butter is gone, just some apples left. Well, no, there is still butter, just the toast is gone 🙂 nice and elegant, well balanced. Some perceived bitterness on the palate. Let’s see how it will develop.
Second day showed some honey notes and improved balance. Overall – excellent.
8+
2016 Meyye Wines Palachchak Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley (15.5% ABV, $70, 90% Zinfandel, 10% Syrah, Palachchak pronounced pah-lah-chak; red-headed acorn woodpecker)
Dark chocolate and black currant, intense and beautiful
Blackberries and blueberries on the first day,
Dark chocolate with a touch of pepper, cherries, good structure, full body, clean acidity, good balance. Lasted for 4 days. Became a bit more round.
8
2021 Meyye Wines ‘Omay Pinot Noir Sonoma County Petaluma Gap AVA (13.9% ABV, $75, 100% Pommard Clone, Sangiacomo Vineyard, ‘Omay pronounced oh-may; brown pelican)
garnet
Smoke and plums, classic CA Pinot
Black Plums, violets, lavender, clean acidity, medium to full body – delicious.
8
2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok Red Blend Sierra Foothills (14.5% ABV, $60, 50% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah, 9% Counoise,
3% Zinfandel, Sokootok pronounced show-koh-tock; California quail)
Dark Ruby
Dark fruit, hint of minerality, sweet cherries, herbs
Black and red fruit, medium body, well-integrated tannins, good acidity, then tannins grip the finish – in a nice, but assertive way. This will develop nicely over the next 10-15 years.
8+, delicious.
Here you go, my friends. Another story of American Pleasures – delicious wines well worth seeking. And Meyye wines you will actually have to seek, due to their ultra-low production, so good luck to you.
Until the next time – cheers!
A Perfect Monday Wine?
Is there such a thing as the perfect wine for Monday?
Or, can there be a specific perfect wine for every day of the week?
Yes and no.
The answer is yes if you feel like it. You can create your own tradition – for example, “every Friday I drink Cabernet Sauvignon”, or “every Sunday I drink Chardonnay”. Sure, you can create such a tradition, but why?
A better answer is “no, there is no specific wine for every day of the week”, there is only wine you want to drink today.
On second thought, maybe? Just for Monday?
There is an abundance of jokes about Monday – purportedly the most difficult day of the week. Arrival of Monday means the weekend is over – and there is a whole work week ahead. But then Monday night means the first day of the week is over – and the weekend just got a little bit closer – isn’t that a reason to celebrate?
And yet, even if Monday deserves its own special wine, what that can be?
Ha! The answer is simple. It is what you crave. Your idea of special Monday wine doesn’t have to be the same as my idea, or anyone else’s idea. Whatever you decide to drink on Monday will be your special Monday wine. For this one Monday, of course.
For whatever reason, today I was craving power. “Power” is not your typical wine descriptor, no doubt every wine lover would have a personal definition of this term. To me “power” means big wine which gives you a lot to “chew on”, but I don’t mean it in the sense of the new French oak tannins literally numbing your taste buds for the next 5 hours. I’m talking more about the massive presence of the wine on your palate, full-bodied, with dark fruit and a variety of spices. My power wines are Petite Sirah, Montefalco Sagrantino, wines made from the Eastern European grape Vranec, maybe some of the renditions of Alicante Bouschet (this is not universal).
In the majority of the cases, the “power” wine should also have some age on it, to make it drinkable. Anyone who tried young California Petite Sirah or Montefalco Sagrantino will understand what I’m talking about.
My choice of the power wine with age – the 2014 Turley Petite Syrah Pesenti Vineyard Paso Robles (14.4% ABV). Turley is best known for its Zinfandel wines, but it also produces a number of Petite Sirah wines, which are equally outstanding.
The wine had the perfect amount of power I was looking for. Abundant red and black fruit, cherries and cherry pits, firm structure, full body, espresso and pepper showing up at random, perfect acidity, impeccable balance. Answering Kevin Zraly’s question – “does this wine give you pleasure” I can only say that this wine was definitely giving the pleasure and lots of it, as I’m looking at an empty bottle right now.
What would be your Monday wine choice?
No Tricks, Only Treats
Halloween is almost here – are you excited? Did you start planning your Halloween party already? I’m here to help you take it to the next level.
How? Easy. You know that on these pages, wine is the answer, but what is the question?
Well, let’s just clear something up – if you are looking for the wine to pair with candy or deliver a candy-equal amount of sugar in every sip, I can’t help you. But if you believe that your Halloween plans call for a simply delicious sip all of your guests will enjoy, I have something for you.
But first, let’s talk about ghosts. What can be more Halloween-y than a ghost? Ghosts are scary, as they are nowhere and everywhere. Same as with people, ghosts can be mean, but they also can be friendly. And anything and everything can be a ghost. How about a winery? Can a winery be a ghost? If a winery is a ghost, does it mean it is haunted and you should be scared walking into it?
Okay, okay, there is nothing to be afraid of. At the end of the 19th century, there were close to 800 wineries in California. Prohibition, which started in 1920, assisted by the phylloxera epidemic had a dramatic impact on the striving wine business. In the 1933, when prohibition was repealed, only 40 wineries survived. Many of those that didn’t became ghostly encampments, giving birth to the term “ghost winery”.
Flora Springs Winery was founded in 1978 by Flora and Jerry Komes in Napa Valley. Winery’s property included such “ghost winery” – Charles Brockhoff Winery, originally constructed in 1885. That winery was abandoned by the family after prohibition. John Komes, son of Jerry and Flora, completely renovated the old winery which became his family home to this day.
The ghostly past plays an important role at Flora Springs, especially at the time of Halloween, the only time of the year when ghosts are allowed to roam freely. With or without ghosts Halloween has been the subject of special attention at Flora Springs for the past 14 years. Throughout all these years, Flora Springs Winery always released special bottles, produced just for Halloween. Every Halloween bottle has a special label, different every year, designed by different artists. It is not only the label, it is also the grapes – for example, this year’s Halloween wines are made from Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and Flora Springs doesn’t produce any other single grape Cab Franc or Malbec wines. So yes, you can entertain your guests in a unique style.
I was lucky enough to taste samples of both Halloween wines Flora Springs has to offer this year.
Before we talk about wines, I would like to quote the description of the 2021 vintage from the Flora Springs website:
“The 2021 vintage in Napa Valley will be remembered for a smooth, uneventful growing season and harvest that produced low yields of intensely-flavored, small-sized grape clusters. The season started off with very little rain and continued as a dry, sunny summer led to a relatively cool fall with weeks of lovely weather. 2021 represented the second drought year in a row, and while concerning in the long term, the dry weather resulted in a more natural crop load on the vines, requiring less pruning and dropping of fruit. The resulting grapes were packed full of flavor leading to powerful, concentrated wines. ”
Now, let’s talk about Cab Franc.
The label for 2021 All Hallows Eve Cabernet Franc was produced by Steve Ellis, an artist who created illustrations for Marvel, DC, and many other franchises. This label is a perfect embodiment of the Halloween spirit, and it perfectly extends the collection of unique Halloween labels Flora Springs amassed over the year – take a look here, it is really fun. Here are my tasting notes for the wine:
2021 Flora Springs All Hallows Eve Cabernet Franc Napa Valley (14.2% ABV, $75, 18 months in French oak barrels, 350 cases produced)
Dark purple with a bright purple hue on the rim. And then it’s black
Inviting nose of sweet cherry and blueberry pie
More of the fresh blueberry pie profile with good acidity in the aftertaste, velvety, seductive, layered, smooth, very smooth – I guess luscious is a better word.
This is how California producers like to see Cabernet Franc. I’m missing pyrazines, my beloved bell peppers.
It shows a little bit lighter on the second day than on the first. 3rd day didn’t change much compared to the 2nd day. And then the bottle was empty
Drinkability: 8-/8, overall very good
And then there was Malbec. Napa Valley Malbec is quite rare and unique, and this wine didn’t disappoint – I also love the artistic rendering of the ghost winery on the label – it is simple and incredibly attractive at the same time.
2021 Flora Springs Ghost Winery Malbec Napa Valley (14.2% ABV, $60, 18 months in 60% French and 40% American oak barrels, 350 cases produced)
Dark garnet, practically black, but when low in the glass offers a beautiful dark purple hue
Succulent black raspberries on the nose
Inky, sweet cherries and cherry pit, a touch of sweet basil, beautiful textural presence, dark, concentrated, perfectly balanced.
Drinkability: 8+
There you are, my friends. A perfect set of wines to celebrate Halloween in style. Both wines are available at the Flora Springs website, and if you buy 3 bottles, you will get a $15 shipping – check the website for the details. And even if you don’t care about Halloween, these are just tasty wines for any occasion – and they will last for the next 10-20 years (the official winery recommendation is 10 years, but I believe they will easily last much longer).
Don’t be afraid of no ghost, especially if this ghost brings wine. Cheers!
American Pleasures #9: Balverne Wines
Wine should give you pleasure – there is no point in drinking wine if it does not. Lately, I have had a number of samples of American wines that were delicious standouts – one after another, making me even wonder if someone cursed my palate. I enjoyed all those wines so much that I decided to designate a new series to them – the American Pleasures.
And we are back to talk about more delicious American wines (after a long and unintended break).
I love how wine not only entices your senses but lets you play a sleuth, a researcher, a scientist, a philosopher – a different role on a different day, or all of them at once – take your pick.
I can give it to you right now [spoilers alert]: I got a sample of three California wines, one better than another, one of them possibly even WOTY 2023 (told ya, spoilers) – and ended up doing the whole research (thanks, Google) trying to connect layers one by one. From the roles I mentioned above, I played mostly a sleuth trying to understand how far history was taking me and how all the little pieces fit together. Ah, never mind, let’s just get to it.
In the center of this excitement are the wines produced by the Notre Vue Estate (Notre Vue stands for Our View in French) and called Balverne. Notre Vue is a 710 acres estate located in the heart of Sonoma County next to Healdsburg and acquired by Bob and Renee Stein in 1992. The history of the land where the estate is situated goes all the way back to 1841 when it was the part of Rancho Sotoyome land grant of 1841. The grapes had been growing on the estate starting from 1869, and commercially starting from 1907 – I’m assuming after the estate was acquired by Antonio Perelli-Minetti.
Let’s take a quick stop here – have you heard of Antonio Perelli-Minetti? I have to shamefully admit that I never have. We all know who Rober Mondavi and Andrew Tschelisteff are, but Antonio Perelli-Minetti? When Antonio Perelli-Minetti died in August of 1976 at the age of 95, his obituary in S.F. Chronicle was titled “Dean of winemakers is dead at 95″. Dean of winemakers – and with all my passion for wine, all the reading and learning, I never came across his name? Well, it may be just me… But then there is almost nothing written about him, for sure online… Okay, moving along…
The winemaking at the estate started in 1972 under the name of Balverne Cellars – supposedly, Balverne is a hybrid Anglo-French term meaning “a place of trees”, which is very appropriate for the estate. In the 1980s, two recent UC Davis graduates, Doug Nalle and John Kongsgaard (I’m sure both names need no introduction), made the estate famous with Balvernet Cellars wines being served at the White House dinners and at some of the finest restaurants in Los Angeles and New York. After Steins acquired the estate in 1992 they were mostly selling the estate grapes to some of the best wineries in California. The winemaking was reintroduced at the estate in 2005 under the name of Windsor Oaks Vineyards, and in 2013, the Balverne name was brought back.
Whew, done with the history. Let’s talk about the present.
At the heart of the Notre Vue estate lays 350 acres of “Forever Wild” Nature Preserve, covered by a variety of oak trees and inhabited by red-tailed hawks (Red-Tailed Hawk is a symbol of Balverne, depicted on every label), wild turkeys, owls, bluebirds, coyotes, bobcats, grey foxes, hares, rabbits and lots more. This Forever Wild nature oasis is a critical element of sustainable viticulture practiced throughout 250 acres of surrounding vineyards. These Sonoma’s Certified Sustainable vineyards are split into multiple blocks growing 18 grape varieties, and they span two of Sonoma County’s prominent AVAs – Russian River Valley and Chalk Hill.
I had an opportunity to try 3 of Balverne’s recent releases – Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. I would typically start tasting with the white wine – here, as I was tasting in the comfort of the house instead of the tasting room, I started with the red – Pinot Noir. The wine was excellent, tightly woven which is not always the case with California Pinot.
2021 Balverne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley AVA (14% ABV, $35, Pinot Noir clones 459 and 667 with a small percentage of 114 and 115, 9 months in 25% new French oak)
Dark garnet
Plums, violets, intense, inviting
Nicely restrained, dark cherries, tart, crisp, lean, well structured
8, excellent
Cabernet Sauvignon followed, being nothing short of excellent, and perfectly drinkable from the first pour.
2019 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Chalk Hill AVA (14.3% ABV, $48, 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, 18 months in French oak)
Dark garnet
Eucalyptus, cassis
Everything weaves around the acidic core. Perfectly restrained, nice Bordeaux/old world style, harmonious, balanced, delicious.
8+, outstanding.
And then came Balverne Chardonnay.
I poured a glass without much thought. Sometimes, it is best to have no expectations – not low, not high, just none. This was the case, even after the first two very successful reds. White wine is difficult. With white wine, the winemaker has nowhere to hide. Even if it will be two out of three, this would be a successful encounter.
The very first whiff of the glass made me literally speechless. The following sip confirmed my excitement:
2021 Balverne Chardonnay Russian River Valley AVA (14.2% ABV, $35, clone 17, 5 months in 20% new French oak)
Light golden
Beautiful, varietally correct nose – vanilla, apple, lemon
The first sip blows your mind – vanilla, golden delicious apple, honey, lemon, minerality – impeccable balance and beauty only a Chardonnay is capable of expressing.
9, spectacular. This wine is just something. Something special.
As you might see in one of the pictures above, my sample set went beyond wine – The Notre Vue’s own California Extra Virgin Olive Oil was a part of the package. I decided to do [an unfair] comparison between Californian and Italian EVOO. Both olive oils were expectedly different, with the Italian one showing green, tight, and peppery, and the Californian one being much more fruity. The beauty – it is not a competition, depending on what dish you are using the olive oil for, each one would have its own advantages.
Now you have a complete experience report, including my uninvited research (but everyone is entitled to their own version of fun). What’s important is that I presented to you three excellent wines, both on their own and as a value. Once you taste this Chardonnay, believe me, you’ll understand…
And we are done here. But – I always have more American pleasures to share, so stay tuned…
Oh, Grenache
Last Friday, September 15th, we celebrated International Grenache Day. For those rare grape holidays I manage not to miss, I usually write a post on the actual day of celebration. This post didn’t make it on time (obviously), but I managed to open a beautiful bottle, so better late than never…
First, let’s talk about Grenache. Grenache, also known as Garnacha in Spain, is one of the major red wine grapes. Grenache is growing in all major winemaking regions – France, Spain, Italy (under the name of Cannonau), Australia, New Zealand, California, Washington, Israel, and many other places.
I’m sure that when people hear the name Grenache, the instant association is “red wine”. However, close relatives Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris are also popular grapes, capable of producing delicious white wines – as they do, for example, in Southern Rhône.
Grenache is versatile – it can star on its own, but it is also a great team player. In Spain, Grenache, or rather, Garnacha, is the grape behind some of the most coveted wines of Priorat (Clos Erasmus, anyone?). Campo de Borja in Aragon is another Garnacha’s sacred land – if you have ever experienced the beauty of Alto Moncayo wines, you know what I’m talking about (if you didn’t, it is never too late to rectify). And in some regions, such as Rioja, Garnacha successfully plays a supporting role.
In France, Grenache is the driving force behind the wines of Southern Rhône – Gigondas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and everything in between fully relies on Grenache – both solo and as a part of the blend. I’m sure you heard of GSM, which stands for Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre – this trio constitutes an absolute majority of Southern Rhône wines, but GSM blends from Australia and the US will give Rhône wines great run for the money.
In the US, Grenache powers many California Rhône Rangers wines – Alban, Saxum, Pax, as well as many of the Washington wines – again, both in solo versions, such as single-vineyard No Girls and Horsepower wines and cult blended renditions such as Sine Qua None.
When it comes to the grape holidays, I take pleasure in going through the labels of the wines I had in the past and building a little collage to represent my experiences with the celebrated grape. I realized that even though I wrote about Grenache Day in the past, I never made a collage – fixing this problem was a lot of fun:
Now, let’s talk about the Grenache that put a smile on my face that Friday – 2015 Carlisle Grenache Rossi Ranch Sonoma Valley (15.4% ABV).
Carlisle is best known for their Zinfandel and Syrah wines. But they also make other wines, such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Alicante Bouschet, albeit in small quantities and not every year. Carlisle Grenache is a rare animal – I’m not even sure I ever got any other Grenache via the mailing list. It appears that the 2014 vintage was not even bottled, as the wine couldn’t be tamed. However, 2015 worked very well, and Carlisle was able to produce the whooping amount … wait for it … of 77 cases. I don’t even know by what luck I was able to get a bottle, but I’m very happy that I did.
100% Grenache, aged in neutral oak. The wine was stunning – first, the nose, loaded with red berries and herbs, fresh, complex, and vibrant – one of those wines you want to smell indefinitely. When I finally got to sip the wine, it didn’t disappoint – the core of the red fruit, a hint of tobacco and just a tiny splash of dark chocolate, sage, vibrant, full of energy and impeccably balanced. And we got to enjoy the wine over a magnificent sunset – two pleasures at once…
This is my Grenache Day story. What Grenache experiences would you like to share?
Weekend in Turley, With a Dash Of Carlisle and Hardy
Many moons ago, my friend Henry and I discovered Turley wines. We were at a restaurant in Manhattan with our wives, either before or after the Broadway show, and on the wine list, Turley Zinfandel (either Juvenile or Old Vines) was one of the reasonably priced wines, so that was the wine we ordered. I don’t remember if I heard about Turley before (maybe), but tasting that wine was a pivotal moment – we fell in love with Turley wines.
Turley Wine Cellars was founded in Napa Valley by emergency room physician, Larry Turley in 1993, and went on to become one of the most prominent Zinfandel producers in the US. Turley produces about 50 different wines from about 50 different vineyards, most of them organically farmed, from all around California. Many of those vineyards date back to the late 1800s. While Turley might be best known for its Zinfandel and Petitte Sirah, they also produce a number of white wines, a number of other reds, and even Cabernet Sauvignon, first produced in 2010, and eloquently called The Label (Larry Turley’s famous saying was that Cabernet drinkers drink “the label”, hence the name – I had my own share of troubles with this wine).
Turley wines are hard to get in the store, and if you really would like to enjoy them at will, you need to be on the Turley mailing list. Turley was one of the very first mailing lists I managed to get on more than 10 years ago, and I had been a happy customer ever since. My friend Henry finally got his first allocation about two years back.
A place on the mailing list still doesn’t guarantee you access to each and every wine Turley makes, and their list operates on a “first come, first serve” basis – I missed quite a few wines that were included in my offering, but disappeared much sooner than I could make up my mind.
Last Saturday, Henry was coming over for dinner, so I had to make it a Turley evening.
Turley makes only two white wines – Sauvignon Blanc and a blend called White Coat. The wine we opened was the 2019 Turley Estate Sauvignon Blanc Turley Estate Napa Valley (13.4% ABV). It is interesting that Sauvignon Blanc was one of the original wines produced back in 1993. Sauvignon Blanc plantings at Turles Estate were replaced with Zinfandel, but then Sauvignon Blanc was planted again on a small section of the dry-farmed, certified organic vineyard. The wine was fermented using natural yeast and it was bottled after 6 months in 100% French, used oak barrels. The wine was an absolute delight, showing beautiful whitestone fruit, perfectly present, perfectly elegant, with fruit and acidity singing in complete balance.
I had a little bit left in the bottle after that evening, and on Sunday I was able to please the most discerning palate in our household – my mother-in-law. She came over for Mother’s Day on Sunday and wanted to drink the white wine. When it comes to wine, she is completely unpredictable, and I always try to pour her wine without showing the bottle – she has lots of preconceived notions about wines and the regions, so I’m always trying to make sure she will just try the wine first, and then I can tell her where it is from. To my delight, she liked the wine, and even when I told her the wine was from California, she still liked it – a serious achievement in this household.
Our next wine was 2021 Turley Zinfandel Rosé California (12% ABV). This wine sometimes is called White Zinfandel, but only to poke fun at the uninitiated (and the bottle is adorned with the white label). This wine is impossible to score – you literally have to press “buy” as soon as your summer offering arrives. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged in used French barriques. It is lip-smacking, it speaks cranberries and strawberries, it is very Provençal in its presentation, but Californian in its soul.
And then there was Tecolote – 2018 Turley Tecolote Paso Robles Red Wine (15.7% ABV). This wine is rarer than rare, as you need to know it exists, to begin with. I got it once through some special holiday offer, but it is never included into the standard seasonal offerings. This wine is typically only available in the tasting room, but being a mailing list member has some advantages – I asked if I can get a few bottles, and they arrived just in time for us to enjoy. This wine is a Spanish-inspired blend of 60% of Grenache and 40% Carignane, coming from the specific block in Pesenti Vineyard, planted in the 1920s. Tecolote means “owl” in Spanish, and this is how the vineyard block is also called. The wine offered layers of lip-smacking black cherries, kitchen spices and sweet tobacco. A perfect balance of textual presence, fruit and acidity made this wine disappear in no time…
Next, let me step away from the wine for a bit – but not from the grapes. I rarely talk about cognac on these pages, but then I have an experience to share.
On an average day, I’m a scotch drinker. But of course, I would never refuse a sip of a good cognac. The keyword is “good” – nowadays, it is difficult to find a good-tasting cognac at a reasonable price in the US. However, my recent cognac tasting with my school friend led me to the discovery of Cognac Expert. Subsequently, I got a recommendation from Cognac Expert for the cognac I now enjoy immensely – without any need to break the bank – Hardy Legend 1863 Cognac. This cognac was produced by the Cognac House of Hardy, to commemorate the founding of the Hardy house back in – yes, you guessed it – 1863. This cognac is a blend of spirits made from the grapes coming from Borderies and Petite Champagne growing areas, aged from 2 to 12 years and finished in classic Limousine oak. From the first enticing smell to the long-lasting, coffee-loaded finish, this cognac offers the ultimate pleasure of balance of fruit, spices, and acidity. And at $40, this might be the best QPR cognac out there today.
Last but not least – 2015 Carlisle Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard Sonoma Valley (14.9% ABV), which I opened on Sunday. Carlisle is another one of my favorite producers, specializing in Zinfandel, Syrah, and Petite Sirah – and some other grapes. The fruit for this wine came from the 130+ years old vineyard, planted in 1888. The wine was aged in French oak, 20% new. It is interesting that stylistically, this wine was similar to Turley Tecolote – succulent tart cherries on the nose and the palate, a touch of eucalyptus, refreshing acidity, perfect balance. This was an excellent wine to finish the weekend right.
Here you are, my friends – my weekend wine story. If you can find any of the wines mentioned in this post you should definitely look for them. And if you like cognac, this Hardy 1863 Legend is hard to beat. And you know where to find it.
Nevermind. I should have never told you that.
Until the next time – cheers!


























