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Restaurant Files: 888 Sushi & Robata in Las Vegas
When it comes to food, Las Vegas is one of the top places in the US. There is no shortage of great restaurants in Las Vegas, no matter what cuisine you are craving.
Considering that the city of Las Vegas is located in the middle of a desert, you wouldn’t think that sushi should be one of the culinary staples there, but it is Las Vegas after all, the city of no limits.
When visiting Las Vegas, which typically happens once a year for the work conference, I always try to include sushi in the dining repertoire. This year was no exception, and while researching online, I found this highly rated place, called 888 Sushi & Robata, which had very high ratings on Yelp, so it definitely got my interest. The only challenge was the fact that the restaurant doesn’t accept reservations and offers a waiting list instead.
I conveniently joined the waiting list on Yelp, and was told that even for the solo diner (none of my colleagues arrived yet), the wait time would be between 3 and 3.5 hours (we are talking about the middle of the day on Sunday). Okay, waiting is not a problem. I decided to walk to the restaurant as it was only about a mile away from the hotel, so I left about 40 minutes prior to the earliest time I could be seated according to the wait list information. Arrived at the restaurant, let them know that I was there, and as I was happy to sit in the bar, I was seated almost instantly (my waiting list was still not complete, but it worked fine).
The restaurant offers a number of menus at different price levels and with different content. As I didn’t want the menu with Wagyu beef (carpaccio, etc.), I settled for the Sushi and Robata menu.
I was not familiar with the term Robata, so based on the menu, I figured that Robata is basically a Japanese BBQ, with food served on little skewers. The waiter explained that the restaurant is all you can eat, but you need to order as you go; this is not a buffet, and you have only 90 minutes to dine. Note that the menu is really overwhelming, but my waiter was very helpful and we were able to figure out I think an excellent program.
I fully took advantage of dining just by myself. I took a bunch of pictures and took notes for almost all the food I was having, so now all I need to do is share my notes with you. Here you go:
I started with a few Robata items:
Squid on the skewer – tasty, but a little chewy
Beef on the skewer – very good, tasty.
Kurobuta sausage, made from the famous Japanese Kurobuta pigs – superb, incredible amount of flavor. I would love to eat like 10 those little sausages at once.
The next few items were served on the small plates:
Crispy Calamari – wow! Crunchy
Tuna Poke – wow. Flavor!
And then there were sushi, many different types of sushi. What was very interesting was that generous pieces of fish were served with tiny, very tiny rice balls – I really appreciate that we were truly able to enjoy fish in the sushi.
Salmon – a huge piece of fish and a tiny amount of rice
Salmon roll – very good
Yellowtail – perfect
Seared salmon – wow. Absolute wow. A little slice of fatty salmon just very lightly seared – what a pleasure!
Mackerel – great, really good. Love mackerel!
Yuzu yellowtail – not very spicy. This was one of the few small disappointments – if you promise spicy, you better deliver 🙂
Eel – melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Love eel, this was delicious.
I asked for a few more pieces to complete the meal.
Ikura – superb. Delicious caviar, excellent quality.
Uni – good, a touch of bitterness which you can often find in the uni. I’m personally looking for a uniformly sweet profile.
As I was looking for something else to complete the meal, I noticed in the Robata section a bacon-wrapped scallop, but it was not available. Instead, the waiter suggested that I should try a bacon-wrapped oyster mushroom. OMG.
Bacon-wrapped oyster mushroom – wow. Tastes similar to scallop. This is really something. A properly chewy, slightly sweet mushroom wrapped in a delicious, salty piece of bacon. Wow.
This was an amazing finish for an amazing meal. Well, almost finish, as I couldn’t resist a soft-serve green tea ice cream, which was delicious and refreshing.
Here you go, my friends – 888 Sushi & Robata. If you are in Las Vegas, I can’t recommend it highly enough. Next time I’m in Las Vegas, this restaurant will definitely be on the list.
888 Sushi & Robata
4480 Paradise Rd #900,
Las Vegas, Nevada 89169
In Memoriam: Michel Rolland
Last week, the world of wine lost an icon. Michel Rolland, often referred to as “flying winemaker”, passed away at the age of 78. Michel Rolland influenced winemaking all around the globe, from France to the US Napa Valley, Argentina, Spain, South Africa, and even Israel.
There is lots and lots written about Michel Rolland in the form of articles and books, and his winemaking practices are sometimes portrayed as controversial. However, I truly believe the wines he helped craft made many wine lovers happy.
I was lucky enough to have the pleasure of sitting across from Michel Rolland and asking him questions – unlike most of my interviews, this one was done face-to-face 10 years ago, during one of his visits to New York. In memory of Michel Rolland, I would like to share that interview again on this blog.
OTBN 2026 – What a night!
Open That Bottle Night (OTBN for short) is one of my favorite wine holidays of the year – possibly simply the favorite.
The event, always taking place on the last Saturday in February, was created by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, writers of the Wall Street Journal wine column, 27 years ago. The purpose of the event or a holiday, if you will, is simple. Every wine lover has a special bottle waiting for a special moment. Let’s declare that special moment has arrived, and let’s open that special bottle to enjoy it now – nobody knows what’s ahead in life, so we should enjoy things while we can.
As I said, this is possibly my favorite wine holiday, I always make an effort to participate, and a few times even wrote about them (here are posts from 2016, 2019, 2020, 2023, and 2025). Whether I’m celebrating with friends or just with my wife, I always make an effort to make that day wine-special – I believe I have never been disappointed so far, judging by “what a night!” being a favorite descriptor.
OTBN 2026 was no exception. Typically, my OTBN experience starts with self-inflicted drama – what to open???? I have more than a few bottles worthy of a “special” designation, and it is always hard (very hard!) to decide which one or two should be called special in a given year. In 2026, somehow I managed to solve this conundrum somewhat easily – the decision just materialized on its own as I was mindlessly moving wine cabinet shelves in and out.
Lopez de Heredia needs no introduction to wine lovers. Way, way back, Lopez de Heredia Blanco was my first foray into white Rioja wines, and I have been a devoted follower ever since. Fiction by Field Recordings was the first wine that led to the discovery of the Field Recordings wines 17+ years ago, and it has been a perennial staple ever since. I can’t say what led to the decision on the 33-year-old white Rioja and 13-year-old California red blend, but this became one of the most memorable wine experiences ever.
Let’s talk about 1993 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Rioja (12.5% ABV). I have to start by saying that I’m not a fan of oxidative white wines. When I mentioned on Twitter that I plan to open this bottle for the OTBN, some comments expressed excitement about oxidative and nutty notes, which I was supposed to find, similar to what you would find in a glass of Jerez. And so I was expecting to find that, and was wondering if I would be able to like that wine. And then there were literally none! Nothing oxidative on the nose, mostly minerality and whitestone fruit. And then a beautiful, complex, powerful structure on the palate, somewhat along the lines of a good Roussanne, still with perfect acidity and freshness. Oxidative notes were lurking in the background, showing up and instantly dissipating a few times, but those were only tiny glimpses, not taking anything away from the wine. An absolutely delightful experience, a 33-year-old white Rioja possibly at its peak (but I wouldn’t dare to insist).
And then there was 2013 Fiction by Field Recordings Paso Robles (13.5% ABV, 31% Zinfandel, 26% Tempranillo, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 8% Touriga Nacional). This was my only bottle with an original label, which I really loved and much prefer to the current ones. There is nothing wrong with the current label, only that the original one, with a flock of birds, was conveying the message of bottled poetry a lot better – or rather music, as I wrote in my first post about this wine, Music, Recorded in the Vineyard.
I also loved the back label. As this might be the last time I look at such a label (the current ones don’t carry any of the text), I would allow myself to cite the text written on that back label:
“It’s 6 A.M. and if I don’t find them soon, they’ll be gone. The back of my pickup stocked with trash bags, I head out. If I was looking at the road, I would notice the truck’s path change from frontage road, to side road, to no road. I would notice addresses begin to dwindle and buildings become fields. But I’m not looking at the road. I’m looking at the sky, searching for the living static that gathers above the grapes when they are perfectly ripe. When the black cloud finally appears, I weave through the vineyard, throw her in park, stuff my pockets with plastic and dance my way through a mess of moving wings and beaks. Hours later, bugs filled with ripe fruit, bulge from the bed of my pickup and the birds have disappeared. Tomorrow, I will search again.”
Now, let’s talk about the wine. Screwtop. 13 years old California Paso Robles blend. Stored at somewhat consistent conditions, away from direct sunlight and vibration, but not in the cellar or a wine cooler. Priced at not more than $20 originally (directly from the winery). And yet, one of the very best wines I have ever experienced. A truly memorable one.
I poured the wine in the glass, smelled it, and couldn’t put the glass down. The time slowed down. Sounds practically disappeared. The aroma was magical. And the wine in my mouth was too.
Dreams, smiles, baby laughter, endless meadows, fresh mountain forest air. I know, it sounds like a brain dump, but I don’t want even to try to describe this wine in technical terms – raspberries or blueberries are not important here, what’s important is how the wine makes you feel. Refined, elegant, layered palate, flavors are transitioning and interplaying in total harmony, each sip asking for the next. Am I exaggerating? I don’t know, and it is up to you to believe me or not. But the wine was absolutely stunning and memorable. That I’m completely sure about.
Here you are, my friends. An OTBN experience that will not be easy to beat.
Two amazing wines, an amazing experience, great memories.
I don’t know if I will be able to do better next year, but this is the beauty of wine – the mystery in the bottle.
Until the next time – cheers!
For the Love of Riesling
I love Riesling.
What do winelovers do when they love the wine?
That’s easy.
We want to share that love.
The biggest reward for a winelover is to offer someone a glass of wine and hear them say “oh, it is good!”.
Sharing the wine is the most enjoyable part of drinking the wine. We want the other people to experience the same joy as we do, we want them to experience the pleasure only the wine can deliver.
As I said before, I love Riesling.
Riesling might be the most underappreciated white grape. It is one of the main 3 white grapes (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling). Riesling wines are made everywhere in the world – Germany, Alsace, Australia, New Zealand, New York (Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley), Canada, Oregon, California, and so on – and yet many of the wine drinkers wouldn’t even openly admit that they like Riesling and that they are happy to drink it.
It is hard to tell why that is. Many people associate the word Riesling with the word “Sweet”. It is a big mistake, as it means, for example, that they never experienced bone-dry, tongue-twisting Rieslings from the Claire Valley in Australia. I would even dare to say that the majority of the well-made Rieslings are not sweet, unless they are purposefully made to be sweet, such as BA or TBA German Rieslings. The main trait of Riesling, similarly to all other wines, is balance. As long as the Riesling is balanced, it is one of the most enjoyable white wines you can imagine. And it pairs well with the wide range of food. I’m telling you – Riesling is one of the best white wines in the world.
The love for wine needs to be shared. And so earlier in the year, I decided to do a Riesling wine tasting. My audience (family, future in-laws) wanted to learn more about the wines, and I have decided that tasting a bunch of Rieslings will offer an excellent educational opportunity (was I right? I have no idea, but I know we had fun).
Ask me to name three of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon producers, and I will quickly become frustrated – can I give you at least 10? 20 or 30 would be even better. The same would be for a Chardonnay, Syrah, and Tempranillo. When it comes to Riesling, however, that would be an easy task. Grosset from Australia. Smith-Madrone from California. Brooks from Oregon. This is my “top 3 Riesling producers” list. I would absolutely love to do a comparative testing of these 3 Rieslings, but I managed to get only 2. I got Smith-Madrone Rieslings first, and then when I got the idea for the tasting, I wrote to Brooks, and they were kind enough to send me a nice vertical of Brooks Rieslings. I also asked Ravines Wine Cellars from Finger Lakes for a similar set, but got no reply, so my tasting consisted of a vertical of Smith-Madrone Rieslings from 2018, 2019, 2021, and 2023, and Brooks Ara Riesling from 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, and 2023 (both wineries didn’t produce wines in 2020).
It is important to note that Riesling can age very well, and aged Riesling is just a special experience. I did an online search and found out that it is rather hard to find aged Riesling anywhere, at least for the price I was willing to pay (age your Riesling, people, take my advice). I managed to find a bottle from 1997, which was seemingly in reasonable condition. At the same online store, I also managed to find a sparkling wine made out of Riesling, known in Germany as Sekt. I scored a bottle of Sekt at the same online store, and it became our first wine in the tasting.
The tasting was non-blind as it had more of an educational purpose than anything else. Here is what transpired during the tasting (outside of the fact that I numbered Brooks Rieslings in the wrong order, so we tasted them from the older vintages to the newer, where I really wanted to go in the opposite direction):
Wine #1: 2013 Dreissigacker Riesling Brut Rheinhessen (12.5% ABV)
bubbles were still present, lemon, a touch of sugar, well balanced, very nice overall. Believe it or not, but this was the first Sekt that I liked.
8-
Wine #2: 2018 Brooks Ara Riesling Willamette Valley (14% ABV, 325 cases produced)
Beautiful color. Honey, petrol, explivit nose of tropical fruit
Great complexity, perfect balance, showing off an interplay of pear, apples, peach, even vanilla and quince. Delicious. 8
Wine #3: 2019 Brooks Ara Riesling Willamette Valley (13% ABV, 225 cases produced) – a very interesting wine, as my tasting notes for day 1 and upon re-tasting the next day differ dramatically.
Day 1: Very unusual, some honeydew, hint of pear. 8-
Day 2: Superb. Lean. Acidity is through the roof, fresh, crisp. Needs 20 years to become amazing. 8++
Wine #4: 2021 Brooks Ara Riesling Willamette Valley (12.5% ABV, 225 cases produced)
Day 1: Beautiful petrol and flowers on the nose
Fresh, petrol, complex, white fruit, excellent balance. 8+
Day 2: Petrol + earth. Beautiful, honey notes on the palate, much richer than ‘19. Still lean and mean. 8
Wine #5: 2022 Brooks Ara Riesling Willamette Valley (12.5% ABV, 150 cases produced)
Day 1: Flowers, touch of brown sugar
Most complex so far – wow, beautiful. 8+
Day 2: Petrol, hint of tropical fruit. Lemon with a touch of honey, lean, crisp, built for aging, let’s say another 20-something years. 8++
Wine #6: 2023 Brooks Ara Riesling Willamette Valley (12.5% ABV, 100 cases produced)
Day 1: Very muted nose. Palate is young, nice, concentrated. 8-
Day 2: Nose almost non-existent. Very lean palate with a hint of honey mixed with lemon. Need to develop for a long, very long time.
Wine #7: 2023 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain (13.2% ABV)
Light color
Candy on the nose
White flowers, fruit medley, bitter orange, crisp, spectacular. 8+
Wine #8: 2022 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain (13.2% ABV)
A touch of petrol
White fruit, white apples, delicious. 8+
Wine #9: 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain (13.2% ABV)
Petrol, beautiful
Lots of complexity, apples, excellent. 8
Wine #10: 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain (13.3% ABV)
Complex aromatics, flowers
Flowers on the palate, a touch of honey, beautiful, complex. 8+
Wine #11: 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling Spring Mountain (13.3% ABV)
Beautiful, hint of petrol, white fruit.
Wow, playful, amazing. 8++
Wine #12: 1997 Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Mosel (8% ABV)
Apple juice all the way, past prime. Still an interesting experience.
As always in such tastings, it is fun to figure out the group’s favorite wine. There were 8 of us tasting the wines, and everybody were asked to decide on 3 of their most favorite wines (mine were #11, #8, and #5), and then we took a vote. To my surprise, we had a clear winner after the first round – wine #8, 2022 Smith-Madrone Riesling, was everyone’s favorite, with wine #11, 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling getting 5 votes. It was interesting that even wine #12, 1997 Riesling, got 3 votes (for me, it was an interesting experience, but not the wine I want to drink again).
As you can see from the notes above, I had a chance to re-taste the wines, this time at a bit of a slower pace. It is very clear that Brooks Rieslings needed more time to open, as you see that on the second day they showed a lot more of what they got, but even then, I believe they would benefit from another 20 years in the cellar, or maybe more.
As I’m writing this, I’m already dreaming of setting up the tasting of 20+ years old Rieslings. Give me Grosset, Brooks, Smith-Madrone, Zind-Humbrecht, and maybe Markus Molitor, from the early 2000s – and this would make it an absolutely amazing tasting. By the way, talking about dreams – what would your dream Riesling tasting include?
I can’t speak for my guests, but I really enjoyed the opportunity to taste such beautiful wines side by side. While both Brooks and Smith-Madrone perfectly exhibited my beloved petrol, Brooks Rieslings on average were a bit leaner than Smith-Madrone, while Smith-Madrone exhibited a richer bouquet on the palate. I’m saying this not in the comparative sense – each one of these wines would make me super-happy any time.
There you are, my friends – my Riesling experience. Do you like Riesling? What are your favorite “go-to” Rieslings?
and A Few Good Wines
Ohh, time flies (who knew? What a pathetic opening – I know, don’t say it.)
About a month More than 2 months ago, we hosted a party (about 40 people). When it comes to a party of this size, I never try to put out “the best stuff” at the beginning. Of course, I’m not talking about offering “plonk” to my guests – the wines will always be quality wines, those which I would be happy to drink every day – but they would be exactly that, “everyday”. So we started with some bubbles, whites, and Rosé. And then…
Well, wait.
The first wine I want to mention was not in my “everyday” category – it was a magnum of the champagne that one of my friends brought to the party.
I never heard of Champagne Jacquesson before, so this was my first encounter with it – and I have to say it was a pleasant one.
NV Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée 745 Grand Vin Extra Brut (12.5% ABV, harvest 2017, disgorged in 2022)
Perfectly classic champagne with toasted notes packaged in the generous fine mousse, deliciously present on the palate. Cut through acidity leads to a clean finish with some lingering plumpness. This magnum didn’t last for too long.
Let’s get back to where I started. As the party gets going, and people have a bite to eat, there is always a moment to say to your wino-friends “hold on, let me bring something”. Whatever happens next is totally unpredictable, as in most cases, I don’t have a plan, or if I do, it would be a really vague one.
Here is what we ended up tasting:
2007 Revana Cabernet Sauvignon St Helena Napa Valley (14.8% ABV) – I got the bottle as a present for a friend way back. Was always waiting for the right moment… The wine was stunning. A beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon, fresh, layered, cassis all the way, on the nose and on the palate, silky smooth and balanced. The bottle was gone in no time, but it was thoroughly enjoyed.
2014 Hors Categorie Syrah Hors Categorie Vineyard Walla Walla Valley (14.1% ABV). I truly don’t know what the right moment Christophe Barone wines is. Hors Categorie Syrah is one of his very top wines (expensive too). The wine was classic “liquid rock” from Washington, with enough gunflint and smoke to almost feel you visited the range. What was interesting is how quickly the wine was changing in the glass – from more rock to more fruit and back. I’m not sure this was the right moment. I should have a few more bottles, and all can say that I’m not touching them for as long as possible…
1993 Limerick Lane Zinfandel Collins Vineyard Russian River Valley (13.5% ABV) – the wine from my Benchmark Wine loot. 30 years young, and beautiful. No, it was not fresh like it was made yesterday, it went all into the tertiary aromas and flavors, but the body was there, the fruit was there, the acidity was there, and therefore, there was lots and lots of pleasure.
2006 Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT (14% ABV, 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot) – another wine brought by a friend. I never had this wine before. This is perfectly on point, beautiful as only Italian wines can be, lots of sweet cherries, a touch of mint, silky-smooth, round, delicious.
Huh, a few wines wine experiences down, and so many more to go. I’m trying to catch up on sharing my wine experiences of this year (well, that’s hardly sufficient), so stay tuned.
A Few Days on Cape Cod, 2025 Edition
I enjoy writing about our trips to Cape Cod as it is always an opportunity to share some picture and talk about wines.
This trip was no exception. We were blessed with beautiful weather, warm and dry. And we drank a lot of delicious wines I’m happy to talk about.
Before we talk about wine, a few of the pictures I love to bring back from Cape Cod:
First, a sparkling wine – NV Incandesa Brut Traditional Method California Sparkling Wine (11.5% ABV, 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir). The wine was delicious, with a classic nose of baked bread and apples, fine mousse, and a round, generous palate. I had to do a bit of research to learn more about this wine, as the bottle itself offers very little information, and it is not easy to find anything on the web. It appears that it shouldn’t be surprising that this sparkling wine tastes so good – it is made by one of the most famous Spanish Cava producers, Raventos Codorniu, as its first foray into the North American market. Side benefit – this was a perfect pairing for the oysters…
Appropriately for the weather, we enjoyed 3 Rosé wines.
2023 Poggio Stenti Sangiovese Rosato Maremma Toscana DOC (13.5% ABV) was delightful, a Rosé with a presence. A full assemblage of strawberries on display – from aromatics on the nose to the flavors on the palate, coupled with a good mid-palate weight, a well-present body. Too bad this was my last bottle brought back last year after our family European trip.
2024 Turley Zinfandel Rosé California (12% ABV) – I’m so glad Turley started producing this wine some years back – it is absolutely delightful, can perfectly compare to any Provançal Rosé in its lightness, effervescence, and beautiful aromatics.
2024 Field Recordings Domo Arigato (Mr. Ramato) Skin Contact Pinot Grigio SLO Coast (12.5% ABV) – one of my perennial favorites from Field Recordings. This is a skin contact wine, so it is more than just a light Rosé; the wine offered herbaceous undertones on the palate, and had good body weight, with red fruit mixed with herbs. Delicious.
We had only a few of the white wines, so here are notes on one of them.
2024 Field Recordings Super Gnario El Palomar District (13.1% ABV, 100% Malvasia Bianca) – amazing aromatics, with flowers, whitestone fruit, guava, overall very intense. On the palate, the wine might be even a bit too much with “in your face” white plums and green pears, medium to full body, good acidity and lingering fruit on the long finish.
Let’s take a little break from wines – here are some garden pictures for you, and a little bit of food:
Now, to the reds.
2018 Pedra Cancela Winemaker’s Selection Dão DOC (13% ABV, 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Alfrocheiro, 30% Tinta Roriz) – Portuguese wines are delivering great QPR, and this wine was no exception. Open and inviting on the nose with red and black fruit continued with black fruit interplay on the palate, with a touch of spices and good earthy undertones. Simple and tasty.
2017 Carlisle The Integral Red Wine Sonoma County (14.5% ABV, 62% Syrah, 38% Mourvèdre) – you rarely can go wrong with Carlisle, and this wine didn’t disappoint. Dark cherries on the nose, dark cherries on the palate, perfectly integrated tannins with elevated but smooth mouthfeel, excellent balance, medium to long finish. An excellent wine.
2017 Alban Vineyards Patrina Estate Syrah Edna Valley (14.8% ABV) – Alban is one of my favorite producers. This Syrah had a beautiful nose of dark fruit with a hint of barnyard. On the palate, the wine was surprisingly sweeter than I expected, with blackberries dominating the palate. My guess is that I opened this wine at the wrong moment in time – it probably needed another 5 years to turn around.
1993 Storr’s Winery Merlot San Ysidro District (12.8% ABV) – I keep opening these old wines that I got from the Benchmark Wine, and so far, not a single one has disappointed. To begin with, just take a look at this cork – it looks like the wine was just made, not 30 years ago. Yes, of course, tertiary aromas dominated, with dry fruit well present, but the wine was still perfectly alive, with medium to full body, good acidity, and perfect balance. This wine was a treat.
There you are, my friends – a few delightful days on Cape Cod. How was your summer?
An evening with friends, August 2025 Edition
I love to be the wine guy.
When someone says “I’ll cook, you bring wine”, I’m absolutely delighted to oblige. First, it is one of the greatest pleasures for the oenophile to choose wines for dinner. The only pleasure bigger than selecting wine is when your friend takes a sip and says “ah, this is delicious”. And of course, there is a side benefit of taking wine out of the house, where the wine is literally stored everywhere, but let’s leave that aside for a moment.
I generally don’t care too much about what exact dishes will be served. My goal is to have a wine “program”, to bring a range of experiences. If a particular wine doesn’t work with a particular dish, it is not a problem – we can enjoy food on its own, and wine on its own.
On Friday, we got together with friends for dinner, and I was happy to be the wine guy.
To play it simple, I decided to go with a “classic” line-up – bubbles, white, red, dessert. Here is what transpired.
My choice of bubbles was NV Champagne Pascal Leblond-Lenoir Brut Tradition (12.5% ABV). This is a very generous Champagne, it perfectly combines crispiness with generous body, apples and vanilla eloped with a fine mousse, delivering lots of pleasure with every sip. Everyone loved it, particularly being happy about this Champagne not being too acidic.
Next was the white wine – 2014 Ott Der Ott Grüner Veltliner Austria (12.5% ABV). White wine with age is a real joy, and this 11 years old wine unquestionably delivered. Whitestone fruit with a touch of petrol on the nose (yes, petrol, one of my favorite aromas). Round and elegant body, with more of the whitestone fruit, good earthy undertones, perfectly balanced and perfectly delicious.
Side note: Bernard Ott is one of the very best wine producers in Austria, practicing Biodynamic viticulture after visiting Domaine la Romanée Conti in 2006. And lastly, 2014 vintage was so difficult that no single vineyard wines were produced – I have to say this was a glorious wine from a difficult vintage.
Next, we opened 2009 Sauvella Luscinia Canta Costers del Segre DO (14.1% ABV, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache). I was blown away by this wine last year (number 7 on the Top 24 of 2024 list) – and the wine continued over deliver. Delicious, generous and round, with wallops of fresh dark fruit, perfect structure and perfect acidity. The wine showed a touch more sweetness and plumpness compared to our second red wine – 2005 Domaine De l’Île Margaux Cuvée Mer de Garonne Grand Vin Bordeaux Supérieur (13.5% ABV, 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Petite Verdot).
This is the second time this year I have enjoyed this wine, which comes from a unique place, a small island in the middle of the Gironde River, overlooking the great estates of Margaux. Perfectly Bordeaux, perfectly on point – a bit leaner than the previous wine, with a precise Bordeaux profile – cassis, eucalyptus, cedar box, a hint of bell pepper, and firm structure with a delicious finish. A pure delight in the glass, and an excellent accompaniment for the lamb stew, which was served as a main course.
Dessert time! Liquid dessert it is.
I always love an opportunity to open a bottle of dessert wine, especially with a group that would appreciate it.
I went through a few options, and somehow decided on 2020 Balderdash Cellars Kill Joy Late Harvest Viognier Eden Valley, California (10% ABV). The wine had a beautiful nose of tropical fruit, and a tropical fruit medley on the palate, not too sweet and with perfectly cleansing acidity. “Ohh, it is so good” was the group’s sentiment.
Here you are, my friends. Happy dinner. Happy diners. Happy memories. And as I’m finishing writing this, I’m ready for a repeat.
15 Years of Blogging
Wine, food, and life.
This story started 15 years ago when…
Nah…
Well, wait. This is actually true. This blog should’ve started at least 17 years ago, as some of my friends suggested. Then, of course, there was a fear of the unknown, “should I or should I not” inner voice fighting, and slow warming up to “I guess I can at least try… what is the worst thing that can happen?”. In March of 2010, I finally told the world that the new wine blog was coming (here is the link to the very first post on this blog). Four months later, in July of 2010, this blog finally took off.
I love numbers, so for this post, I wanted to share some Talk-a-Vino 15 years stats:
- 1,553 – number of published posts (it averages to 100+ a year, even though earlier years saw a lot more posts than the late ones)
- 1,556,337 words written (only in posts, not including comments; this was a fun project of figuring it out)
- 10,202 comments posted (that includes my replies as well)
- Pinot Noir is the most talked about grape with 79 posts, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (70) and Chardonnay (55).
- Wine Quiz is still the most popular category with 257 posts, even though I have not been running the series for many years now.
- 640,293 spam comments protected against by Akismet according to the WordPress.com dashboard – this one is the most impressive number 🙂
When I started writing this blog, I was pondering the question – who do I write this blog for? After spending some time researching what others think, I came to a simple conclusion – I will be writing this blog for myself. I will be the one who has to like the posts first and foremost – of course, it would be wonderful to find some soulmates, people who would enjoy reading what I wrote, but I wouldn’t do anything special to find them, “just be myself,” as they like to say.
As an engineer at the core, I wanted my posts to be organized, so I came up with a concept of “series”. I was also very ambitious – for example, one of the series was called Daily Glass – as I drink wine daily, this series was supposed to talk about those daily wines. To date, I have 84 posts in that category – not exactly a daily activity. However, I still find the concept of the series helpful, at least personally, as it delivers the big picture. Usually, the names of the series are self-explanatory, as with the Daily Glass, so I don’t need to explain what “Restaurant Files”, “One on One with Winemaker”, “American Pleasures” (well, this one is actually about great American wines), or “Travel Diaries” actually mean.
Wine, food, and life.
This blog became a place where I store wine, food, and life experiences. There are notes for thousands of wines. There are restaurant experiences and recipes. You can find my travel diaries, whether visiting Japan, Israel, Paris, or my own neighbourhood, all illustrated with countless pictures. Tasting rare grapes is another passion, spurred by being bitten by the Wine Century Club bug – the rare grape experiences are collected throughout these pages, as I continue that Wine Century Club journey. Then there are even more experiences I love to collect, such as tasting wines from as many US states and as many countries as possible.
When I started blogging, the plan was to share my opinion and my opinion alone. When at the first Wine Bloggers Conference I attended, I heard seasoned wine writers saying “interview, interview, interview”, this was completely lost on me. What interviews? Why should I ask someone questions and then try to repeat the conversation in the format of a blog post? Little by little, conversation after conversation, the “aha” moment happened, and you can now find 40 or so conversations with the winemakers and wine people, the interviews. Among those, there is a series called Stories of Passion and Pinot, dedicated to the people who made the finicky grape their passion, most of them coming from Oregon.
And I also have to mention two of my perennial favorites. In my 15 years of blogging, I haven’t missed a single year with my Wine News and Updates, always published on April 1st, always filled with the most sensational happenings in the world of wine (if you have some time, check them out!). Another favorite is the list of the Top Wines of the Year, also published every year from 2010 through 2024. Originally envisioned as being only Top 10, then Top 12 (a dozen), the Top Lists usually reach at least 24 wines, but hey, this is my blog, my rules, and I can break my own rules.
I’m definitely enjoying my journey of 15 years, and I can only hope that I was able to share the joy with you on some occasions. Let’s raise our glasses to Wine, Food, and Life. Cheers!
Wine and Cheese – A Rare Pleasure
What’s so rare about wine cheese? Nothing, of course. “Wine and cheese” is one of the most abused “topics” of a social gathering. “Ah, let’s get together, I will bring wine and you will bring cheese”. Easy and straightforward, right?
So let me ask you, when was the last time you enjoyed yellow cheddar with a sip of a nice Chardonnay? Never mind Chardonnay, do you think yellow cheddar will work well with a random Pinot Grigio? Or maybe an inexpensive Rioja? I will let you ponder that enjoyable yellow cheddar pairing for a while – let me know when you come up with a good answer.
Wine and food pairing “that works” is an art. When wine and food pairing is attempted, one of the best general results is when wine and food don’t fight each other. In the rare cases when food and wine work together, that creates a pleasure of the next level, a pure hedonistic joy.
There are many books written on the subject of food and wine pairing, so I’m not going to try to cover the subject within a few sentences on this blog. On a basic level, wine and food pairing work well either by contrasting or complementing flavors. For example, an effervescent Moscato d’Asti perfectly complements an angel cake, as the flavors are similar, but Asti elevates the mouthfeel with light bubbles and a touch of acidity. Nice Kabinett Riesling perfectly contrasts spicy Asian dish with its acidity and sweetness, offering a welcoming relief to your fired-up taste buds. Many of the pairings would fall somewhere in between, but the whole point is that a bite of food together with a sip of wine should give you more pleasure than each one on its own.
So, how can you go about finding pleasurable combinations of food and wine? Wait, no, this is a topic for another blog post. Let me rephrase the question – how do you find pleasurable combinations of cheese and wine?
The right answer is: it depends.
Why, it always depends, doesn’t it?
When it comes to cheese, there is one easy hack (workaround is a nicer word :)) – if we are talking about artisanal cheeses, the pairing gets easier. Similar to wines, artisanal cheeses are also a product of terroir – many European cheeses have a protected area of origin. For most of the cases, that means that those artisanal cheeses had been produced in the specific area for a while, and that in turn means that most likely, the wines were produced locally right next to cheese, and therefore they is a good chance that wine and cheese from the same place might pair together well.
I had a perfect opportunity to test this theory. I got an unusual birthday present last month – a selection of artisanal cheeses from the local cheese monger – five cheeses from France and Switzerland. Obviously, that presented a perfect opportunity to try that difficult cheese and wine pairing and see how it would work.
Here are the cheeses I got with a brief wine pairing recommendations collected through an internet search:
– 1 –
Schallenberg
Origin: Switzerland, Alpine region
Milk: Cow (raw)
Age: 10 months
Suggested wine pairings:
White: Riesling, Ice Wine
Red: Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Barbera
– 2 –
Hornbacher
Origin: Switzerland, Alpine region
Milk: Cow (raw)
Age: 11 months
Suggested wine pairings:
White: Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris
Other: (fortified dessert wines): Sherry, Port
– 3 –
Abbaye de Tamié
Traditional French cheese crafted by the monks at the Trappist Abbey of Tamié since the 12th century
Origin: France, Savoie, Rhône-Alpes
Milk: Cow (raw)
Suggested wine pairings:
White: Chardonnay, Savoie (Chasselas and others)
Red: Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Gamay
Other: Champagne, other sparkling wines
– 4 –
Vacherousse d’Argental, double-cream Brie style
Origin: France, Lyon region
Milk: Cow
Suggested wine pairings:
Other: Champagne and other sparkling wines
White: Riesling, Grenache Blanc
– 5 –
Ovalie Cendrée
Origin: France, Loire Valley
Type: Goat (raw? Pasteurized?)
Suggested wine pairings:
White: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling
Rosé
Red: Pineau d’Aunis
As you can tell, there was quite a range of wines suggested for the pairing, with Pinot Noir and Champagne being a common thread.
I get it about Champagne, as well-made Champagne possibly is the most versatile food pairing wine out there. Pinot Noir sounded a bit surprising, as I think many Pinot Noirs would easily overpower cheeses. And of course, Riesling makes perfect sense to pair with the cheeses, alongside the dessert wines.
While there is a good range of wines that might work with my cheese selection, the goal of this exercise was to get pleasure, not to conduct a comprehensive research of cheese and wine pairings, thus I had to limit the selection of the wines. I had a bottle of Champagne that I wanted to open for a while. I decided to go with Pinot Noir for the red, and luckily (for everyone), I settled on the Burgundian version and not Oregon or California. And last but not east, instead of looking for a right Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, I settled on the beautiful rendition of Chenin Blanc from Loire (of course!) from one of the best (best?) producers, Domaine Huet, basing my decision on the fact that one of the cheeses was coming from Loire region, thus giving me hope that local wine will pair well with local cheese.
Here are brief notes about the wines and their pairing with the cheeses:
NV Champagne Domaine les Monts Fournois Premier Cru (12.5% ABV, 70% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier, Bottled in June 2016, Disgorged in September 2022) – superb. A classic nose of brioche and apples, followed by toasted bread and apples on the palate with cleansing acidity. Elegant, supple, delicious. Worked well with all cheeses.
2019 Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Sec Vouvray AOC (13.5% ABV)
What a delight! Beautiful light golden color, elegant nose of whitestone fruit and a hint of nutmeg, inviting and enticing. Round, roll-off-your-tongue experience on the palate, an elegant white fruit medley, balanced acidity, a welcoming complexity with a medium-long finish. The wine was a riot paired with ashy goat, Ovalie Cendrée.
2019 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure Cuvée de Maison Dieu Bourgogne (13.5% ABV, 14-18 months in partially new oak barrels)
Elegant would be the best descriptor. The wine was soft and approachable, with red fruit on the nose and more of the red fruit on the palate, medium body, soft and delicate. If I were just to open it to drink on its own, I think I would be disappointed. But paired with cheese, the wine shone, matching nearly perfectly pretty much all the cheeses we had in the tasting. I think my personal favorite was pairing with two of the Swiss hard cheeses, but again, this Burgundian Pinot worked perfectly with all 5 cheeses.
We also opened one more bottle in the evening – 1998 Mondavi Moscato d’Oro Napa Valley – we did’t pair it with the cheese (I’m sure that the pairing would be superb), but it was delicious on its own, with light sweetness of honey notes and still good acidity, still fresh – a delightful finish to the tasty night.
Here you are, my friends – a story of the rare pleasure – a successful pairing of the wine and cheese. Do you have your own stories about wine and cheese?
Wines of South America: Making Wine Geek and Wine Lover Happy
Here is where it gets interesting. We all heard of wine geeks, people who get excited about little nerdy wine details, such as vineyard blocks, blending methodology, or amphorae versus cement tank aging. And then you have the wine lovers, aficionados – the people who simply go after the hedonistic pleasure of wine drinking. Can these two personas be happy at the same time? I can’t speak for all the wine people with multiple personalities, but I can definitely answer for this one, the moi. I attended Descorchados 2025 tasting of South American wines, and both inner geek and aficionado were happy.
Just in case you are curious, DescoRChadOS is a guide for the wine of South America, published since 1999. Descorchados also runs wine tasting events dedicated to the wines of South America, and the 2025 event was the first return of the tasting to New York City since 2019.
As a self-appointed wine geek, I love all the uncommon wine traits – new (to me) and lesser-known grape varieties, new (to me) and unknown, even obscure places, authentic (indigenous, autochthonous) grapes, low intervention/natural wines, unique wines and vineyards (e.g. old vineyards). In this tasting, I found all of these things – indigenous, unknown (and thus new to me) grapes harvested from the 200-year-old vineyards, from the countries I had never tasted the wines from before. Happy, happy, happy wine geek.
And then there were world-class, beautiful, delicious, hedonistic wines – Malbec, Syrah, classic method Sparkling wines – all in the same tasting. As I said, both geek and aficionado were very happy.
Let’s start with the unique portion first, as I had a chance to attend the masterclass presenting the historical wines of South America.
When it comes to wine from South America, Argentina and Chile are the two countries that come to mind first, followed by Uruguay and maybe Brazil. But the grapes had been growing in most of the South American countries for a long time, with vineyards usually started by European immigrants. It appears that the oldest vineyard in South America is called Tacoma and it is located in Perú, originally planted by Spanish immigrants in the 1540s.
I don’t know if a grape vine can survive for 500 years and continue to bear fruit. However, I now know that 200-year-old vineyards can still produce grapes, as I had an opportunity to taste the wines made with grapes harvested from 200-year-old vines.
In the masterclass, we tasted 6 wines from 3 countries – Perú, Bolivia, and Chile, some of them produced from the unique grapes I never had before, so thanks to this tasting I can now add two countries to my list of Wines around the World, and increase the grape count by 3 – picture happy collector of experiences.
Here is what we tasted in the masterclass – but before the notes, just take a look at these colors! This tasting was definitely a feast for the eyes!
2024 Bodega Murga Ponte Mosca Pisco Perú (12.5% ABV, 34% Moscatel de Alejandría, 33% Moscatel Rosada, 33% Moscatel Negra, 65 days of skin contact)
Pisco is located south of Lima, capital of Perú, 25 minutes away from the Atlantic Ocean, featuring 4 different soil types in the region.
I can’t even comment on the color (beautiful!). The wine had a wonderful nose with explicit nutmeg and a hint of grapefruit. Interestingly dry and tart on the palate, with blood orange on the finish and pure acidity. A great specimen of skin contact wine, but you have to love skin contact. Will be great with seafood.
2024 Bodega Murga Sophia L’Orange Perú (10% ABV, 85% Quebranta, 15% Mollar grapes, 30 days of skin maceration, indigenous yeast)
Muted nose with a hint of smoke, strawberries, sapidity. Smokey strawberries on the palate with salivating clean, crisp acidity on the finish. I absolutely love it, but this is not the wine for everyone (geeks should be happy, though).
Just look at these colors!
2023 Jardín Oculto Negra Criolla Finca Molle Pampa Cinti Bolivia (200! years old vineyard, 100% Negra Criolla, a.k.a. Listán Prieto a.k.a. País)
Cintis Valley is located in the south of Bolivia, at 7,500 feet altitude, 18” of rain a year – the only place in Bolivia where you can find “winter” for the grapes.
Fresh, crisp, underripe crushed raspberries on the nose. Tart, acidic, with sapidity well present, and with a bitter finish. I can drink it, but this is not your everyday wine; too bitter for me (my palate is particularly sensitive to bitter notes).
2023 Yokich Imporeña Vino Blanco Cepas Cententarias Valle de Cinti Bolivia (13% ABV, 100% Imporeña grape)
What a color! Honey and roasted meat on the nose (yeah, I know, don’t say it), somewhat cloying.
Good acidity on the palate, but I’m not sure this is the wine I want to drink again
2022 Roberto Henriquez Molino Del Ciego Itata Valley Chile (13% ABV, 100% Semillon, 100 years old vineyard)
Jalapeño pepper on the nose, bell peppers and spicy peppers on the palate, good acidity. I’m now hungry. Might be the most unusual rendering of Semillon I’ve ever tasted.
2021 Roberto Henriquez Santa Cruz de Coya Bio Bio Valley Chile (11.5% ABV, 100% País, 200 years old vineyard)
Lightly scented red fruit on the nose, explicit minerality, fresh acidity, tart strawberries, acidity on the finish. This is the wine from the 200-year-old vineyard – very impressive.
Here are the results of the masterclass: 3 new grapes, 2 new countries to add to the list, beautifully colorful wines, lots of geeky excitement (when was the last time you tried wine from a 200-year-old vineyard?).
Then there was a regular tasting with more than 200 wines represented – I didn’t have much time to spend there, but I managed to find some very tasty wines – sparkling and still. Here is the list of the wines I enjoyed outside of the masterclass:
NV Estrelas do Brasil Brut Método Tradicionel
NV Estrelas do Brasil Nature Rose Pinot Noir – superb!
NV Guatambu Nature – excellent
NV Cave Geisse Nature Método Tradicional D.O. Altos de Pinto Bandeira
2020 Neyen Espiritu de Apalta Malbec Colchagua Valley – classic!
2021 Emiliana Coyam Los Robles Estate Valle de Colchagua – excellent but needs time
2021 Emiliana Gê Valle de Colchagua – ready to drink now, delicious
2015 Casa Marin Syrah Miramar Vineyard San Antonio Valley Chile – surprisingly delicious (when I think Chile, I don’t think Syrah – but you should look for this wine)
NV Casa Marin Maria Luz Brut Nature San Antonio Valley Chile
2024 Casa Marin Sauvignon Blanc Cipreses Vineyard
That concludes my encounter with the unique world of South American wines – from geeky pleasures to hedonistic masterpieces, South America has a wine for everyone, you just need to look for it.
What were your geeky discoveries as of late? Or how about some hedonistic pleasures you want to talk about? Cheers!
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