Talk-A-Vino

Carlisle is one of my favorite California wine producers (who is, unfortunately, about to close the operation, but this is not the subject of this post). Carlisle is very well known for their Zinfandel wines, but their Rhone-style wines (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and others) are also excellent. I love their wines and have been on the mailing list for more than 10 years. I’m rarely disappointed by Carlisle wines, and yet I had a few “interesting” experiences.

Two years ago, in January of 2024, I opened a bottle of 2016 Carlisle Two Acres wine, and it turned out to be one of such “interesting” experiences. I didn’t like the wine, not when it was just opened, nor over the next few days it remained open. The wine was lacking balance, and since that time, I had a bit of trepidation whlie considering opening Two Acres again.

Today, I decided to give it another chance. This time, it was a 2017 Carlisle Two Acres Russian River Valley (14.9% ABV). Different vintage, a year difference in ageing (8 years versus 9 years). And the wine couldn’t be more different. Almost black color, dusty cherries on the nose, beautiful legs (couldn’t help but notice). Dusty cherries and herbs on the palate, perfect firm structure, full body, power and elegance, and perfect balance. This was one delicious wine.  (Drinkability: 8+/9-)

There is a reason for the wine’s name Two Acres. The grapes for this wine come from the 2-acre vineyard parcel, which was originally planted in 1910. Carlisle took over the parcel in 1996, when the vineyard was practically dying, and restored the vineyard to full health in 2003. The original vineyard was planted with the Mourvèdre grapes, with the addition of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan,  Peloursin, and Alicante Bouschet. According to the Carlisle website, there are also a few Zinfandel vines in addition to nine whites of a variety called Helena (a white cross of Zinfandel and Mondeuse noir). Also, Two Acres wine is produced as Field Blend, which means that all the different grape varieties are harvested and processed together, without separating by varieties.

And now is the question – how come? How come I really didn’t like 2016 and loved 2017? Was there something with my mood? The difference between the vintages? On odd bottle? Of course, we will never know, but the analysis, even if futile, is still a part of the geeky wine fun.

I checked the Wine Spectator vintage chart for Rhone varieties in California, and according to the chart, 2016 was supposed to be far superior:

2016 – “A textbook vintage with nearly ideal growing conditions throughout the year”

2017 – “Dramatic weather conditions, from floods to heat waves to wildfires, led to a variable, challenging vintage”

And yet I liked 2017 a lot more. Of course, my 2016 could’ve been just an odd bottle. Or maybe I had a root day. Or just simply a bad day.

We will never know, because you can’t enter the same river twice. But if anything, I think my trepidation towards Carlisle Two Acres is now cured. And I’m ready to taste another bottle.

Until the next time – cheers!