Home > #winechat, Finger Lakes Wines, Riesling, wine ratings, Wine Tasting > Riesling, Oh Riesling – Finger Lakes Riesling Deep Immersion with #WineChat

Riesling, Oh Riesling – Finger Lakes Riesling Deep Immersion with #WineChat

September 16, 2014 Leave a comment Go to comments

IRF tasteprofileThere is nothing obscure about Riesling. Unquestionably one of the “big three” white grapes (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling). Celebrated through various social media events – “The Summer of Riesling”, “Riesling Month”. An established, de-facto pairing for the Asian or any spicy cuisine for that matter. “Fastest growing white wine in America”. And nevertheless, one of the most unknown, under-appreciated and misunderstood wines, if you ask me.

Walk into any general wine store, and try to find Riesling wines. Are they right in the first aisle, next to the California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc? Nope. Oh yes, a lot of Rieslings come from Europe, so they definitely will be right next to the Burgundy and Loire. Oops – not here again? Here they are – in the back of the back, a side aisle, a small section, ask the sales guy, he will show you. And this is not limited to the wine stores only – most of the restaurant wine lists have one or two Riesling wines, usually in the cheapest group. Similar story in most of our cellars – how many bottles of Riesling do you have on your shelves? A few? And this is despite the fact that Riesling is one of the most age-worthy wines in the world…

So how do these two realities of “one of the fastest growing” and “last row seat” co-exist? I think perception has a lot to do with this. Since Riesling can be sweet, and often it is praised for its sweetness, consumers are stuck in the notion Riesling = Sweet. Take a look at the Wine Spectator ratings – highest rated Kabinett Riesling (typically showing only a hint of sweetness) got 93 points; and then 8 (eight!) Rieslings got 100 points (the absolute top) rating – by the way, it is 8 of only 75 wines which got 100 points from Wine Spectator – and all 8 are Trockenbeerenauslese, the highest sweetness designation. Thus for lots and lots of wine drinkers, Riesling is a dessert wine, and while we love dessert wines a lot more than we are willing to admit, the dessert wine designation means “only for the special moments”.

Can this perception be changed? Of course. How? By educating people. This was one of the reasons for the International Riesling Foundation (IRF) to be created in 2007. The idea behind foundation was exactly this – to make people aware of what Riesling has to offer, and to help people better understand Riesling wines. One of the outcomes of the IRF efforts became the Riesling Taste Profile. According the the specification of that profile, four taste categories are defined – Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Sweet and Sweet. Based on the given set of parameters (sugar, acid and pH), the IRF developed a technical chart which allows winery to estimate how the consumers will likely perceive the wine across the 4 defined taste categories. After that, the winery can print that taste profile on the label (you can see an example at the very beginning of this post) – and then the consumer can quickly set the expectations just by glancing at the label.

Finger Lakes Rieslings

Well, it is good to have an informative label, but when it comes to the wine world, seeing doesn’t really equates to believing. But tasting does. This is where the #winechat comes to the rescue. Last week, a group of enthusiastic oenophiles had a chance to dive deeply into the world of 2013 Finger Lakes Riesling, by tasting through the 8 different wines and sharing the excitement with each other. And the wines were definitely very exciting, full of pleasure in every sip. Finger Lakes region in New York deserves all of your attention  – but I already shared my thought about the region at length in the two earlier posts this year, so I will have to refer you to those (first Finger Lakes #winechat and the post about Bellangelo wines).

Below are my notes regarding the individual wines. These notes are based on the longer evaluation of the wines than we would otherwise have during the 60 short minutes of the #winechat, so if you are talking part in another #winechat session on that subject, I suggest you will start tasting your wines now. One last note regarding the wines. As this is my third encounter with the Finger Lakes wines this year, I would like to offer two “bits of wisdom” based on that experience:

  1. Don’t over-chill.
  2. Let ’em breathe.

Terroir, minerality are important components of Finger Lakes wines – by serving the wines a bit warmer than you normally would, say at around 50F, and letting them breathe for may be an hour, you will do yourself a big favor and will find a lot more pleasure in every sip. At least I did. Without further ado, here are the 8 beautiful wines:

Thirsty Owl Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Thirsty Owl Wine Company Riesling Finger Lakes (11.0% ABV, $14.95). IRF scale not shown. On the nose, touch of minerality (gunflint), apricot. Overall nice and restrained. Palate: Clean , crisp acidity, touch of honeysuckle, golden delicious apple. Medium finish, overall very refreshing. Drinkability: 8-

Knapp Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Knapp Dry Riesling Finger Lakes (12%ABV, $15.95) – On the IRF scale, this wine is at the lower part of the Medium Dry style. White apples, honey and lemon on the nose. On the palate, candied lemon peel with fresh lemon juice, complemented by the cut-through acidity. Medium finish, overall a nicely balanced wine. Drinkability: 7+

Boundary Breaks Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Boundary Breaks Vineyard #239 Dry Finger Lakes (11.6% ABV, $19.95) – right in the middle of “dry” on the IRF scale. This is my second encounter with Boundary Breaks Riesling, and I find that this wine needs breathing time to show itself. Initially, closed on the nose, then opening to show distant hint of lemon, touch of minerality. On the palate – wave of sweetness first, with cut through acidity, lingering for a bit and then finishing dry. Tasting at a later time adds some fresh apple and more minerally undertones. Drinkability: 7+

Red Newt Cellars Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Red Newt Cellars Dry Riesling Finger Lakes (11.8% ABV, $17.00) – right in the middle of “dry” on the IRF scale. On the nose, shows minerality, touch of fresh grass. hint of fresh lime, overall very intense. On the palate – nutmeg, hint of mango, fresh herbs and lemon, crisp, dry. Excellent balance and overall very pleasant. One of my very favorites from the tasting. Drinkability: 8

Swedish Hill Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Swedish Hill Riesling Finger Lakes (11.8% ABV, $15.99) – IRF scale not shown. Fresh white fruit on the nose, touch of candied lemon. Nose quite intense. On the palate – rich, velvety, ripe peach with touch of fresh lemon, clean acidity, excellent finish (medium plus). Texturally quite unique. Drinkability: 8-

Fox Run Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Fox Run Vineyards Dry Riesling Finger Lakes (11% ABV, $17.99) – According to IRF scale, the wine is right on the border between Dry and Medium Dry. On the nose, subdued notes of peach and honey, touch of lemon, intense. Palate is elegant, mineral-driven, with green apple, touch of Meyer lemon, overall dry and very balanced. Drinkability: 8

McGregor Riesling Finger Lakes2013 McGregor Vineyard Riesling Finger Lakes (10.5% ABV, $19.99) – IRF scale is not used. A lot is happening on the nose – cantaloupe, honeysuckle, candied orange, openly sweet and intense. On the palate – ripe apricot, honey, ripe white apple, elegant acidity, perfectly refreshing, very good balance. Drinkability: 8-

Chateau Lafayette Reneau Riesling Finger Lakes2013 Chateau Lafayette Reneau Riesling Semidry Finger Lakes (11.5% ABV, $14.99) – IRF scale is not used. On the nose – rhubarb, floral, touch of grass, white apple. On the palate – honeysuckle, ripe peach, touch of minerality and grass, lemon zest, clean acidity, excellent balance, soft and round mouthfeel. Another top favorite from the tasting. Drinkability: 8

Here we go – 8 great wines, and the region for you waiting to be discovered. September is still on, and it is an official Finger Lakes Riesling month – make an effort to find your new love – a versatile ( and affordable!) wine which you can drink now or put away to enjoy in a few years (or 10 or 20, this is entirely up to you). Cheers!

  1. September 16, 2014 at 12:30 pm

    Years ago I avoided Riesling because I thought they were all sweet, I have grown to love and respect Riesling. My wine merchant has a good selection but not much from the Finger Lakes. I will ask him to look into stocking some of them. Great reviews.

    • talkavino
      September 16, 2014 at 12:35 pm

      Thanks, Suzanne! Finger Lakes is definitely a world-class player now.

  2. September 17, 2014 at 11:15 am

    A great sampling!

    • talkavino
      September 18, 2014 at 5:04 am

      It was a very good set for sure!

  3. September 18, 2014 at 9:43 am

    In order to find a Riesling in our local wine shop you need to go to the “other whites” aisle.

    • talkavino
      September 18, 2014 at 11:15 am

      Yep – this was exactly my point. Everybody seem to know and acknowledge how great the Riesling is – and it is still confined to the “other wines” section…

  4. Rhinemaiden
    September 21, 2014 at 4:03 pm

    I have loved Riesling since visiting Germany in the early 80’s, and I just made a run to the Finger Lakes to stock up. Can’t believe Dr. Frank’s isn’t mentioned.

    So no need to convince me, however the writer does need to learn how to spell aisle.

    • talkavino
      September 21, 2014 at 9:39 pm

      Thank you for the comment. Dr. Konstantin Frank isn’t mentioned as it was not the part of this specific set of wines – of course they make some of the very best wines in the Finger Lakes region.
      Thank you very much for the “aisle” correction – consider yourself hired as an editor!

      • Rhinemaiden
        September 22, 2014 at 10:27 am

        Opened a bottle of Dr. Frank’s 2013 semi-dry Riesling last night and it is fabulous! 2013 was a very good year in the FLX. I also bought some of the Gewurtz, which was wonderful in the tasting. Looking forward to that sometime soon.

        • talkavino
          September 22, 2014 at 11:47 am

          Yes, I agree – I like pretty much everything I tasted from 2013, definitely looks like a good year.

  5. September 24, 2014 at 5:24 pm

    Great profile of rieslings! Very helpful for someone not that familiar with the grape—having been turned off by the sweet reputation! I’m looking forward to trying my first dry Fingerlakes rieslings this weekend.

    • talkavino
      September 24, 2014 at 11:24 pm

      Thank you! I’m curious to know what your first impressions will be – hope to read your post!

  6. October 3, 2014 at 9:23 am

    I’ll definitely have to revisit the Riesling aisle. Having an “ex” who preferred the cloyingly sweet varieties, I developed a disdain for it that I’ve never tried to overcome! Thanks for making them sound worth a second look. 🙂

    • talkavino
      October 3, 2014 at 9:39 am

      These were outstanding wines, perfectly balanced – you should definitely give them a chance!

  7. July 12, 2016 at 11:54 pm

    I think people automatically turn up their noses when they hear the name!! They have some memory of drinking it when they were young, probably some four dollar bottle! Great post!!

    Thanks for sharing with us at Throwback Thursday!


    • talkavino
      July 13, 2016 at 12:59 am

      Riesling definitely worth full attention of any oenophile – well made Rieslings are very enjoyable.

  1. September 27, 2014 at 2:54 pm
  2. June 12, 2015 at 1:51 am

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