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Champagne Blind Tasting – Don’t Try That At Home?

March 6, 2011 10 comments

The idea was born – blind champagne tasting. It’s going to be fun! Well, blind sparkling wine tasting, to be more precise. The date was set, menu decided upon. Everybody have to bring a bottle of sparkling wine, which is expected to be of reasonable quality. No, it doesn’t have to be from Champagne only, anywhere in the world is good – with some notable exceptions. For instance, sparkling Shiraz was not welcomed.

All precautions had being taken to ensure that tasting will be blind. All bottles placed into the paper bags, and taped on top. We ended up with 9 different sparkling wines (mistake number 1 – too many). The simplest challenge was to have enough glasses as we adamantly resisted the idea of plastic, so we had to split tasting into two groups, 5 and 4 wines – mistake number 2 stemming from mistake number 1 – all wines should have equal time to breathe, even sparkling.

There we went with the tasting. Wine #1, #2, #3… Break after #5 to move glasses, open 4 more bottles, pour and continue. I think the biggest challenge was the fact that differences between sparkling wines (in general) are often very subtle, and it requires highly trained and sophisticated palate to pick them up. For most of us, we would probably stand at least some chance if we would take extended time to assess the quality of the sparkling wine. Typically white or red wine is “in your face” from the moment you smell the wine. Sparkling wine usually is not. Therefore, you need to reflect on each sip of sparkling wine a lot longer to assess its qualities. If you are moving too quickly, those sparkling wines are becoming almost “all the same”.

Anyway, here is the list of sparkling wines we had at the tasting, in the exact order as we tried them:

  1. 2006 Bodegas Carrau Sust Brut Nature Vintage, Uruguay
  2. Franciacorta Bellavista Cuvee Brut, Italy
  3. 2006 Jacques Germanier Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime Grande Reserve, Switzerland
  4. Champagne Gosset Brut Excellence, France
  5. Champagne Thierry Triolet Brut, France
  6. 2007 Bagrationi Royal Cuvee Brut Vintage, Georgia
  7. 2007 Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cuvee, South Africa
  8. J Cuvee 20 Brut, California
  9. 1998 Champagne Gosset Celebris Brut

Can you guess the winning wine? I would be surprised if you do (no, it was not the one from Uruguay if you went with the most odd choice). Actually, at the first vote we had a tie with 3 wines getting the same number of points, so we had to re-taste that group and then vote again to come up with the winning wine.  And the winner was…wine #6, 2007 Bagrationi Royal Cuvee Brut Vintage from Georgia (yes, we were also very surprised).

This wine was the most interesting of the pack with unusual zesty citrus notes, good acidity and good balance. J Cuvee 20 and 2007 Graham Beck (California and South Africa!) were close runner-ups (they were in the group we had to re-taste), and it is interesting to note that all three were more fruit forward than the other wines in the tasting.

Now, from the prospective of “mistakes” I mentioned before, here are few of my personal disappointments:

Wine #5, Champagne Thierry Triolet Brut, is  a Growers Champagne. I had a pleasure of tasting that wine on the second day, and it opened up a lot more, showing fruit and creaminess. It probably wouldn’t be the winner of the tasting, but I’m sure it would fare better given enough consideration.

Wine #9, 1998 Champagne Gosset Celebris Brut was the only Vintage Champagne in the tasting. It definitely didn’t get enough time to show off all its beauty. By the end of the evening it opened up enough to show off typical yeasty flavors of the vintage champagne, and it became a lot more appealing, at least to my taste.

Oh well, it was definitely a fun exercise! Should you do the champagne blind tasting? May be not. Should you enjoy a glass of champagne instead? Absolutely. Don’t wait for a special occasion, simply celebrate life as it happens. Any day is a good day for a glass of champagne. Cheers!

Daily Glass: Value Wines Project – Portugal Wins Over Italy

March 6, 2011 1 comment

Here are the next two wines in the Value Wines project. First is the wine from Italy, 2007 Poggio Morino Rosso Maremma Toscana IGT ($9.98). When talking about wines of Tuscany, first wine which comes to mind is typically a Chianti, which is made mostly from the grape called Sangiovese. However, starting in the 70s, most prominent (and expensive) wines in Tuscany are so called super-tuscan wines, which are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and other “non-typical” for Tuscany grapes (which produce truly amazing wines).

This particular Poggio Morino Rosso is a blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Sangiovese, and equal parts of Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine has nice ruby color, nice nose with the hint of earthiness, medium body. It can work well as everyday wine, and as many Italian wines it would go better with the food. As it didn’t exhibit any particular “umph”, Dinkability is 7.

Second wine is coming from Portugal, from the region called Lisboa, and it is 2008 Casa Santos Lima Portas de Lisboa ($6.98). This wine is a blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional (main grape in production of Port), and Syrah. This wine showed very nice nose of crushed red fruit, and on the palate… on the palate it was playful, living substance. Very good acidity, soft but noticeable tannins, good amount of red fruit, spices and tobacco. From the spices, the most pronounced was cloves, which was then leaving the way for leather and hint of white pepper. This wine deserves Drinkability of 8-, and this is the wine to get by the case.

So far our value wines project is trending upwards in the tasting profile , which makes me happy. I hope the trend will continue!

Daily Glass: Value Wines Project – E.Guigal Cotes du Rhone

March 4, 2011 Leave a comment

Continuing the value wines explorations, the next wine is 2007 E. Guigal Cotes do Rhone ($10.99 at the same Bottle King).  E.Guigal is a very good producer making great wines in both Northern and Southern Rhone. While I keep dreaming of La Landonne (1985 vintage  – Wine Spectator 100 points, many wines are rated at 99), regular E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone wines are typically quite good as well.

2007 was one of the greatest vintages in Cotes du Rhone, and it is showing through many different wines. This particular 2007 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone wine (87 rating from Wine Spectator) showed off quite well. Dark ruby color, with good nose of red fruit, extremely concentrated on the palate. Even on the second day, the initial layer of soft fruit was intercepted by aggressive cherry pit spice with undertones of pepper, slowly mellowing down to a nice wine.

This wine needs time to fully open up, so it can safely spend a few years in the cellar. At this point, I would give this wine Drinkability rating of 7 – but again , this might improve quite rapidly.

So far we have 2 good wines under $11.99 – and this story will be continued…

Daily Glass: Value Wines Project

March 3, 2011 2 comments

It is great when your wine budget is unlimited – no doubts. But this is typically not the case. Are you destined to drink bad and boring wines in such a case? I believe the answer is no – and to test it, I decided to try different wines with only one common characteristic – none of them should cost more than $11.99 for regular size bottle.

Finding good wines in this price range is not easy – there are only some regions which will deliver decent wines in that category. For instance, I wouldn’t look for Californian wines – in that price range I find many wines literally indistinguishable and boring. Same with Chile and Australia. Don’t get me wrong – there is plenty of great value wines coming from Chile, Australia or California – but you really have to cross that $12 border line.

Where do you look for value? I believe Portugal, Italy and France can provide what we are looking for, so – here I go.  To implement this project, I went to Bottle King store in Glen Rock, New Jersey, which is a part of Bottle King chain of liquor stores. Bottle King has great selection of reasonably priced wines from Portugal, Italy, France and of course many other regions. I got there a number of wines in the $3.98 to $11.99 range, which I will be reporting on in this series.

First wine in the series happened to be 2009 Ciconia, an Agarones/Syrah/Touriga Nacional blend from Alentejano region in Portugal, priced at $6.98. The wine had beautiful dark purple color. On the nose, it had a scent of fresh red berries, with the touch of pepper. On the palate it was nice young wine, a bit jammy at the beginning with red and dark fruit and hint of pepper and leather coming in the second wave. The wine had good acidity and a bit sharpness on the edges, which should mellow out as it will age. Definitely excellent wine for the price. Should be good with food, and should cellar nicely for another 3-4 years (or at least I think so). I will put Drinkability at 7+.

Pretty good for the beginning – I can only hope that the next bottle will be as good or better. Don’t worry, you will be the first to know…