Home > Experiences, Food and wine pairing, monthly wine writing challenge, wine writing > New Versus Old – Is Wine World Upside Down?

New Versus Old – Is Wine World Upside Down?

This post is an entry for the 23rd Monthly Wine Writing Challenge (#MWWC23), with the theme of “New”. Previous themes in the order of appearance were: Transportation, Trouble, Possession, Oops, Feast, Mystery, Devotion, Luck, Fear, Value, Friend, Local, Serendipity, Tradition, Success, Finish, Epiphany, Crisis, Choice, Variety, Pairing, Second Chance.

New. We all crave, adore and worship new in our lives. New experience. New restaurant. New baby. New job. New car. New iPhone. New house. New puppy. Add “new” to practically any object, and it instantly becomes something exciting.

The “new” is not limited to the things and objects. New ways constantly appear, and we embrace them wholeheartedly. New technologies and new processes are born every day. Self-driving cars. 3D printers. We store our pictures in the cloud. It’s all new, new, new around us.

We love new so much that “old” becomes almost en expletive. We might attach “old” to the experiences, but not to the objects! Think about it. When you are looking for the used car, the dealer will refer to such a car exactly like that – used. She might even say “almost new” or “gently used”. But you will never hear from the dealer that they want to offer you this old car – unless you are in the market for antiques  – but even then “old” descriptor will be avoided. Or let’s say you are looking for a house. Ever heard agent saying “let me show you this old house“? We learn to be afraid of the world “old”, as we don’t want to get old ourselves.

Ridge Vineyards 60 years old vineTalking about wine world, the word “new” is exciting as in any other aspect of our lives. In essence, the whole wine world is built on the concept of new – ever year  there is a new harvest, and a new wine will be produced from the grapes of that new harvest. New labels are made for the wines. New wineries are founded. New tasting rooms are built. New vineyards are planted. New processes are invented to press the grapes, to ferment them, to preserve wines, to bottle. New packaging (wine in a can, anyone? wine on tap?). New is a most prominent concept in the wine world.

But the concept of “old” is ohh so different when it comes to wines. “Old” in the wine world commands such a respect that we might not find in any other areas of human life. Let’s start in the vineyard. So you planted a new vineyard? Great. Now you need to wait until it will become old, as for the most of vineyards you need to wait at least 3-4 years before they will produce fruit suitable for winemaking. And that vineyard has to become old in the natural way, just by letting the time pass – there is no magic bullet.

To top it off, the older vineyard gets, the better it is. Ever seen the words “old vines” on the bottle? May be viñas viejas? Or how about vieilles vignes? These words mean exactly what they say – that this wine was made from the grapes harvested from the vineyards which had been around for a long time – 20 years, 30 years, 60 years, 100 years. The term “old vines” is typically not regulated, so there is no way of knowing exactly how old the vines are – but often the back label will give you that information. Very often that “age” is also reflected in the price – the older the car, the less it costs – but it is exactly opposite in the wines – the older the vines are, more expensive wine becomes (older vines yield less grapes with higher flavor concentration  = tastier wine).

“Old” doesn’t stop in the vineyard. Lots and lots of wines are aged before they are released – both by law and by the desire of the winery. By law, non-vintage Champagne have to age for a minimum of 15 month, and vintage Champagne for at least 3 years – in reality, most of NV is aged for 2-3 years, and vintage is typically 4-10. By law, Rioja Gran Reserva requires at least 5 years of aging before the release. By law, Brunello Rieserva can be sold not earlier than 6 years after the harvest. Many of the wineries in California offer so called “library releases”, when the wines are aged for you in the winery’s cellar in the ideal conditions. Some wineries in Bordeaux sell their wines only 10 years after the harvest, including First Growth Chateau Latour, which recently declared that “vintages will be released when the chateau believes they are ready to drink”. Let’s go down all the way – how about some 100 year old Para Vintage Tawny from Seppeltsfield in Australia, which is released … yes, 100 years after the vintage date.

It is not that “old” is unquestionable winner in the world of wines. More often than not, “new” and “old” are clashing  – sometimes in amicable ways, sometimes – not so much. One of the simplest “conflicts” – new oak versus used oak. This, of course, is what making winemakinng an art, as there is no hard and fast rule to when to age wine in old oak barrels versus new oak – each has its own benefits. Another form of the simple “conflict” is an internal fight which oenophile endures trying to decide when the wine from her cellar is ready to drink – there is also lots of good bad advice coming from all the wine professionals and the media – and we still are trying to figure that magical moment when the wine is perfectly “old“, or rather “aged” as we like to say, to maximize our pleasure. And then you got all those violent clashes between old and new – think about “traditional Barolo” versus “new style Barolo”. Think about fight for the Super Tuscans, attempts to introduce the new grapes in Brunello, or just any winemaker trying to do something new against the rules of the appellation.

Now, what do you think? Is wine world upside down for the new and old? Is there anything else which humans do where old commands equal or greater respect than new? Cheers!


 

  1. March 4, 2016 at 10:54 am

    Reblogged this on mwwcblog.

  2. March 4, 2016 at 11:42 am

    I heard a story on the radio recently (can’t recall all the details) about a man who’s doing up an old farm. He found ancient vines tangled in some growth. Apparently they are the “heirloom” descendants of a lost species. I wish I’d taken some better notes…
    But anyway, this idea of old vines (any “old” plant life, really) seems nearly magical at times!

    Great post. Cheers!

    • talkavino
      March 5, 2016 at 6:26 am

      Thanks! It is interesting how different the value of “old” in the wine world compare to most of the other areas of human life.

  3. March 4, 2016 at 10:42 pm

    Mate, you beat me to it. I was about to write about the same topic for this month’s MWWC. Luckily I have another topic to focus on! Great post.

    • talkavino
      March 5, 2016 at 6:28 am

      This was truly spontaneous. When it comes to MWWC, sometimes I get the idea right after the theme is announced. And then there are times when the new theme generates zero response. This was the case with the “new”, and then all of a sudden when I saw a deadline reminder, it clicked. Mind is an interesting thing 🙂 Looking forward reading your post!

      • March 5, 2016 at 11:07 am

        Understand, I am usually the same when it comes to writing. Luckily my new topic seemed to flow. It may be of help for you with a quest of yours! Cheers

  4. March 5, 2016 at 5:50 pm

    Really great post Anatoli, it is really a concept that is so multi faceted it is hard sometimes to wrap my head around the new/old thing when it comes to wine. Fascinating!

  5. March 7, 2016 at 3:34 pm

    This was great!!! Old is a beautiful thing in a wine bottle, a vineyard and a winery indeed! (but we can’t wait to get rid of the “old” iPhone we bought 9 whole months ago!) LOL

    • talkavino
      March 7, 2016 at 4:03 pm

      Thanks for the comment Rashida! Yes, we are not big funs of “old” nowadays, aren’t we? 🙂

  6. March 8, 2016 at 7:48 pm

    I really enjoyed this. A notable perspective you’ve taken on the topic. Well done!

    • talkavino
      March 8, 2016 at 7:57 pm

      Thank you! Appreciate your kind words!

  1. March 8, 2016 at 9:06 am

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s